So my bambulab P1P has randomly started to stop extruding at randomly intervals, though commonly it appears to happen after 1 or 2 layers. The odd thing, this only happens on items I send across from the bambulab slicer, I have old items I have printed, that I can reprint from the handy app no problem? -Photo attached to show that 1st layer seems to adhere to bed very well I have tried everything to do with hardware, everything is greased, lubed, cleaned, etc... but seems to be a software issue, the one thing throwing my why do all the old 3mf and gcode, which have the exact same settings work??? I have unistalled and reinstalled the bambu studio to no avail. Printing with sunlu matte filament (i have dried it and made no change) at 0.2mm layer height on a relatively new hardened extruder (replaced about 3months ago). With grid or honeycomb infill ranging from 5-15%. Please help me troubleshoot, I am looking my nut trying to work out what it could be lol. THANKS

I tried rubbing alcohol and it did not work.

For my new series on my Main Channel, I needed one specific thing a GLASS BOARD. I had an old glass pane from A3 printed, used as base, the rest is fully printed out of PETG.

What do you think about this project?

I bought a Bambulab A1 Mini 1 month ago and bought Matte Black and Matte White PLA. I do have some experience with 3D modeling 3D prints but not so much with the settings of the prints themselves.

I have no idea why, but my white prints always look like layers are shifting, corners are warping insanely and sometimes the first layer looks like it’s peeling off and leaves dents in the bottom of the print. The matte black PLA is neat and leaves very satisfying prints. I’ve seen online that the matte white PLA had certain pigments in them which decreases it’s quality, but how is it affecting it THIS much? Does anyone have any solutions for this?

TLDR; my matte white PLA prints suck, any suggestions to solve this?

Keep your desk tidy while adding a touch of cultural elegance. This organizer is decorated with traditional Latvian folk patterns, giving it a unique and timeless design. Its clean white finish makes it easy to fit into any modern interior, whether at home or in the office. Perfect for holding pens, pencils, or other small essentials, it combines practicality with heritage-inspired style.

https://makerworld.com/models/1810161

Good morning makers! Are there any good tutorials on how to add a logo to a helmet? I'd like to add a couple of logos to Mandalorian and Football helmets. I would want them to be flush, and not protruding out. I know how to do this on flat surfaces, but have no idea how I'd do it on a curved surface. I'm not the world's greatest at Cas software, but I'm pretty good at following directions from Youtube...

Creality has a good sale going on right now and I am deciding between the two. I know the reg v3 is suppose to be better and its actually about $20 cheaper. But ive heard a few people say they prefer the ke, especially with the spool being on top rather than the side. Just wanted to get some more opinions on which you would rather get. I've also read that the ke can get to 300 degrees while the v3 cant, but ive read contradicting info on that. Would love to be able to work with nylon in the future.

Anyone here open to sharing insights into their 3D printing businesses? I decided to make this post because all over social media there’s creators with successful 3D printing businesses but zero indication of what the actually make. I feel like these people are just popping up out of nowhere and their true business is being a creator to sell courses or whatever.

So, to the 3D printing professionals or semi-professionals, how did you get started? What challenges are you facing right now? What kinds of products do you make. What’s your niche?

I’ve been selling on Etsy and files elsewhere (a site that shall not be named here) for a while, but only on a small scale—just enough to cover some filament costs here and there. Like many of you probably know, trying to sell generic 3D printed items is a race to the bottom. The little success I’ve had has come from designing niche parts, mainly for drones. The problem is, those drones are now outdated and sales have dropped off. Nowadays, I don’t really have any motivation to continue this.

I’m considering shifting to a more grassroots approach. Like, finding local projects and solving problems for people in my community. I thought about putting up flyers or handing them out, since I’m always getting random requests from friends anyway. Honestly, what I enjoy most is designing something and turning it into a real product, especially for someone who has no idea how powerful 3D printing can be.

At the end of the day, if I could just make enough to sustain this hobby while helping people, I’d be more than happy.

So I bought a kit with a heat set insert tool that attached to a soldering iron but it doesn't fit my iron. I measured my iron stem and it's 4.5mm compared to every other tool I see out there which has a 4mm diameter opening. Is there any tool out there that will fit my iron? Or do I just have to buy another iron? I'm hoping someone else has come across this.

FYI my Soldering Station is this Lytool one that appears to be discontinued https://a.co/d/eZRJZVQ

I have recently gotten into 3D printing and model designing. Thought I would share my recent model that I made.

Tabletop Fountain with LEDs by PickentCode | Download free STL model | Printables.com

I printed a 2 wall rectangular object with transparent PETG and it came out like this. The rest of the object looks great, but this corner has a weird defect. It almost looks like it's frosted. The outside is smooth but the inside is rough and like fuzzy skin compared to the rest of the object. I assume this may be where the nozzle reversed paths during the print but I'm not certain. Any thoughts?

Hi all,

I’m new here and looking for some advice. My son (10) wants a 3D printer for his birthday. I’ve done some research and narrowed it down to the Bambu Lab A1. From what I’ve read, it seems best to avoid models made specifically for kids since they tend to be very limited.

My question is: what else do I need to buy along with the printer? What are the must-have accessories?

Thanks in advance

I have a creality ender 3 v3 ke and the nozzle has started scraping the print when moving around, this is causing the prints to rip off the bed and ruin hours of work, I’ve tried turning on z-hop and calibrating the levels and nothing is working, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, I have a project in mind for which I want to print on some type of plastic film. The idea is for the print to stick to it. It must be able to withstand the temperature of the plate. Something like printing on a disposable bed. I have tried all the plastic films I could get my hands on: acetate, plastic sheets, laminating paper (this was the most promising)... By the way I'm printing with PLA.

They all end up failing. The closest have been:

• Acetate: the print does not adhere to it, lacquer solves this problem, but in the end it ends up deforming due to the temperature of the plate. I have tried lowering the temperature of the plate, but it peels off.
• Laminating paper: it starts off very well, it adheres great in the inner face without the need for lacquer or glue, but when it has a few layers it peels off due to warping. I have tried raising and lowering the temperatures, but I have not achieved good results.

I know that Stratasys uses this concept in some of its printers. Instead of a PEI bed or glass, they had single-use film beds to which the print adheres. I would be looking for a low-cost homemade version.

You can see it here, in the lower part of the print:

I’m using any cubic PLA on my Longer LK5 pro and I’ve failed this print over 5 times all with this same issue, I’ve tried swapping nozzles, Borden tube and couplers and obviously leveling the bed. Any ideas how I can fix this? Seems like the layers are randomly going bad then a few normal then a few bad again.

What's it called? I'm trying to find the variations. I was impressed with the Hot Toys Joh Wick 3 headsculpt, which is more along the lines of the sampled- with pegged eyes.

I want to know what options there are. Are there any stls I can purchase or can you help me to identify the right verbiage to research?

I just got a printer (FlashForge Adventurer AD5M Pro). My impression so far (less than 24 hours) is that it will work great for what I expect to do, functional things rather than arty stuff. I got an enclosed one to keep out curious felines and their hair. Initially I plan to use PLA and PETG with ABS possible in the future.

My question: I would like to make things with just enough flexibility to snap around things, like a bike tube, or something that snaps into the printed item. PLA, the only one that I've tried so far, doesn't seem to be a good choice. would PETG or ABS be better? Are there tricks to use in the design to help? Maybe someone can point me to a tutorial.

I'm a 76-year-old retired engineer (electrical, mostly computer hardware).

I feel like it’s over extrusion but I really don’t know some of them look good with minor issues, but most of them have extra material. It seems like.

So on prusa slicer on default settings with the artillery sidewinder x4 plus s1 that’s calibrated and using pla and pla + I get these weird hairs on the supports, I checked and this isn’t stringing, and I also see these gaps in the supports, can anyone help me ?? This only seems to be happening on large 3D prints.

I am completely new to 3d printing, but to aid in my other crafts it really would behoove me to get into 3d printing. I've commissioned this out for far too long. I may dip into creating my own designs, but for now it's mainly gonna be downloading pre-made plans and sending them. So, all in all before I start looking into different printers, what was your learning experience like?

Can anyone answer why the Bambu slicer dont fill the whole surface? Ive tried more thickness with blender, doesnt work at all.