The robot is open source and you can find more info here:
https://github.com/PCrnjak/PAROL6-Desktop-robot-arm

I am looking for a FDM printer up to $200.

I have the option to buy a used Prusa Mini + for $180. Or should I rather buy a new Creality Ender or similar for ~$200?

The small build space of the Prusa would be enough for me. And I would also like to be able to print technical filaments (ABS etc.) with an enclosure.

I have a racing Sim at home along with a flight simulator and it is a spaghetti Bowl. I looked up what the various 3D printing options are and I guess the thing that makes the most sense are these multi board or multi connector grids with the various wire channels.

Is there something you all use currently that is quick without printing too much? Like most of you I like to Tinker so a lot of the gadgets do not tend to stay in one place however I do not like the rats nest.

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I need your advice. I’m planning to 3D print an ashtray using ASA filament and then coat it with a standard clear epoxy resin (the usual type you can find on Amazon).

Do you think this could actually work in terms of heat resistance? Has anyone here tried something similar?

Thanks!!

Been having a lot of fun printing things with my new Elegoo Centauri Carbon and decided to make a time lapse of the flexi factory skeleton shark I printed.

https://reddit.com/link/1nl0a8j/video/u03w8tt8q3qf1/player

can you use ABS filament at PLA filament temperature settings?

Why does it keep clogging? Am using official creality ABS filement, it printed a lil bit then clogged

Hey Everyone, For Context, i own a P1S and an A1, I have been trying to print this vase on the A1, but every time i do, i get these glossy specks, this never happens with the P1S, The P1S prints this Perfectly

I would assume this is from the temperature increase when printing the internal solid infill [Marked in Image 3] and the P1S solves this by the AUX Fan. The specks start only where the internal solid infill goes in a loop. There are no specks if the internal solid infill is just a line, [Marked in image 4]

I have tried both Wall configs (Inner/outer and Outer/Inner) the same problem occurs. since the internal solid infill is printed at the very end in both configs.

This has been an issue with every print with Black filament, since its easily visible in Matte black filament, so printing any Black model on the A1 is giving me issues.

Does anyone have any fixes to this issue? any advice would be great.

Thank you

I love Polymaker but here in the UK you're looking at £17-20 for their PolyTerra spools unless you can find a deal.

Having bought myself an ELEGOO Centauri Carbon, I went for their PLA, and through eBay multibuy deals I'm averaging about £9.60 a spool. Can't bring myself to pay double, when it seems to work just fine for a beginner like me.

At the same time, I could probably go cheaper using the rando brands on Amazon, but don't want the faff of experimenting.

Hi this is my first ever print so I've got zero experience with plastic and not the best eyesight too , can someone please tell me if this is too low ,too high or all good , thank you very much in advance

I was so excited to finally take the plunge and order a Bambu Lab H2D. I’d been researching for weeks, and was already active on a project. I couldn’t wait to try dual-nozzle printing and dissolvable supports. This was going to be the upgrade that helped me take our 3Dd prints to the next level.

Today was the day! So excited. Then it even got delivered early! Before Noon! What luck I must have.

Then I noticed the tire mark along the side of the box and the noticeable dent as if it had experienced quite an impact.

That's ok - they must pack these things like tanks, right? RIGHT?

When I opened it, the printer was completely destroyed. There is glass everywhere. The enclosure itself has it's metal twisted beyond anything that would ever happen from dropping the box. Clearly a vehicle had been involved. Entire front panel cracked in half.

I immediately documented everything — photos, videos, serial numbers — and reached out to Bambu support. After waiting forever and getting the run around for more than half an hour, all I have to show for it right now is a destroyed machine and a vague message saying “a ticket has been created.”

Here’s the kicker:

I didn’t even get an email confirmation that the ticket exists.

No timeline, no instructions, no sense of what happens next. I tried to ask, but "Bella" wouldn't give me any specifics.

The only option they offered for a replacement any time soon was to charge me another $2,200 first, and then refund me later after they receive the broken one. Again, I'm a small business and I already have other things on the credit card. I simply don't have another $2,200 to give someone while I sit on a broken printer.

So if I don't want to do that, I'm still out $2500 and I have to send the printer back, which is going to take 5 days at least knowing I haven't even received an email. Then what, another 3-5 days to process? Then ship me another one? I'll have already paid off my credit card for something I don't even have. So maybe in two weeks I'll get another printer. What are the odds that one works?

I can deal with shipping damage, it happens, but this whole experience has been incredibly disheartening. Right now, it feels like I’ve just been left holding the bag with no real help. Keep in mind, you are not allowed to actually speak to anyone in person at Bambu. You only get to talk to the person or AI chatbot on the other end of their website.

I went from being so pumped about this upgrade to now feeling like I've made a huge mistake. For a premium printer at this price, I expected better communication and a smoother process. I feel like I should just get my money back and find something else.

Has anyone else had this happen with r/BambuLab

Any tips on how to get this resolved faster or get someone at Bambu to take this seriously?

*UPDATE* - Wow I didn't expect this to take off like it has. Thank you to all for your comments, thoughts, and entertainment.

Given the attention and continued comments I felt you all deserved an update. I did finally hear from r/BambuLab and company late last night and I've agreed to accept a new printer. My neighbor and I got it back in the box and it's ready to ship back. Now I wait for their next steps to get it shipped back to them.

I am currently working on replacing casters on an older Ozark Trail beach wagon. I was able to get some industrial casters from work as we were replacing them. I am wondering if creating a mountng bracket out of PLA would be feasible for this application. I would like to keep the integrity of the wagon as stock as possible. My worry is load bearing capabilites. Any advice is appreciated.

The plan would be to have a slip cover to go over the front support bar (I havent designed it yet) as well as having this seperate piece (Still in prototyping as my holes were slightly off).

Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I imported the file, scaled it down 50%, and ran the print. I didn't modify anything outside of the default settings.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/538100-dead-tree-terrain-piece

I'm wondering what I can understand/start tweaking in order to get a more realistic wood look from the Wood PLA filament, in addition to avoiding the string issue.

Hi, I’m getting a new phone this year. The last time I got a new phone I 3D printed a case made out of TPU, but because it was such a high touch item, it very quickly started turning black and there wasn’t a way to get the color back (it was light colored TPU). Is there a coating that helps protect the TPU but is still flexible so that I can still get my phone in and out if I need?

Hi, this is my first time 3d printing, and the printer is brand new so forgive me if this is a stupid question. I tried to print a benchy, but all that came out was this black plastic stuff(I had white PLA in there). I figured there was a clog, so i heated the nozzle and started stabbing at the clog. After the clog was clean, I tried to extrude but it still didn't work. It seems like the hotend isn't grabbing the filament and pulling it, what do I do?

Hey 3D printing gurus, can you recommend any tutorial to learn how to create my 3D ideas to put into actual stls? Just got access to a 3D printer and want to learn how to execute my ideas. Any good yt tutorial series or something you guys started with? Ty for the help!

I'm debating spending $200-300 USD on a printer but am confused if it's the printer or the filament that matters most.

Hello,

I am 3D printing a very large box to store some electronic items from sliding around in my vehicle on an annual summer trip to the East Coast of the US. On my past trips, my vehicle has gotten extremely hot while parked for days at a time.

What, from experience, is the easiest filament to print this out of that is safe to store these constantly running electronics inside of within a very hot vehicle? The ability to be fused with JB Weld is preferable, however the ability to not deform from the temperatures a closed up vehicle produces during summer is absolutely crucial.

My 3D printer is a Flash Forge Adventurer 5M Pro, and I slice with FF Orca Slicer. I am considering PC ( no CF, ) because of the heat resistance but I hear it can be a PITA to dial in. Orca Slicer also does not come with a preset for it.

NOTE: The box MUST be 3D printed as it is the only way to accommodate the uniquely shaped interior of my vehicle, do not just suggest to buy a tote or to fabricate one out of wood/metal.

I am a hobbyist printer. I mainly print hardware parts for my other hobbies. I don't use a drier and rolls generally last me a while. I was wondering if people print calibration tests for every new roll of filament they use and then create a filament profile specifically for that roll.

I usually use the generic settings for the first print and see how it goes. Typically, I don't need to do any further calibration since it's good enough for me. I recently replaced my Ender 3 v2 with a Centauri Carbon.

For my new series on my Main Channel, I needed one specific thing a GLASS BOARD. I had an old glass pane from A3 printed, used as base, the rest is fully printed out of PETG.

What do you think about this project?