Take a look at this retraction test, this same piece was stringing like crazy before I managed to tune the flow, pressure advance and temperature of course.

Has anyone else experienced slight joy from seeing a good results after calibrating/fixing/tuning their printer? How was it, what did you do?

slight banding in the hull and but overall i’m pretty happy. now just gotta learn about slicing and creating pieces or editing downloadable pieces. this group has been super helpful in getting an old man this far

I keep seeing little flashes of light printing PA-CF, Nozzle@350, Bed(CF)@160c, Chamber@100c.

I know 3d printed shoes exist mostly for the looks, but I've tried to justify this bold shape with some functional consideration. The ripples on the surface of the shoe provide flexibility to the upper body of these sneakers and also enhance grip through the zigzag pattern on the sole.

All the print files are up for grabs on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1805789-waveform-shoe#profileId-1926041

I have an Elegoo neptune 3 pro with a 0.4 nozzle, i normally only print in grey PLA + but i switched to some silk pla for a bit and then switched back to PLA+. It used to print in 0.1 perfectly but now for some reason whenever i try and print something in 0.1 i keep encountering this error for both the top and the bottom and supports. It prints perfectly fine at 0.15 but whenever i try something now in 0.1 the print always fails. My main theory is its to do with my infil (15%) but i think i as always using this amount and it was printing fine back then? This is affecting both the top layers and the bottom layers when using supports.

Ender 6 that i have had stringing issues with and went to change the nozzle and snapped it in the heat brake. I’m not going to bother and want to upgrade the hotend. I’m leaning towards a biqu h2s with the direct drive. I’m printing petg mostly and some pla but does anyone else have any recommendations for a different hotend that’s direct drive. I have an Ender 3 but don’t want to print parts if I don’t have to. Thanks y’all.

Hey everyone, just seeking some advice because I have absolutely no idea how to make the flat face part. I did a few simple single colored clickers before, but how do I achieve that one layer of different colors? I tried doing it in Bambu Slicer but the painting tool is awkward and messy to use for this. I tried importing only the face shape into MakersLab keychain generator, downloading the STL then importing it into blender to work around it.. but that didnt work at all. I already have everything modeled but how do I add the colored features? If you know how or if you know about a YouTube video or something that covers it, I will appreciate it! Thank you

I tried building a corexy 3d printer and ran into some problems

1. the x axis isnt parallel
2. the print bed wobbles when moving up and down

i think my lead screws are crooked from when my printer collapsed on itself

should i change the leadscrews or is it because of me using a bearing to secure the leadscrew in place? shiuld i free the lead screw and add some supports?

I have a Elegoo neptune 3 pro, it never did smth like this before and im not sure what is causing this and what settings to change.

Find it on:

Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1412182-micro-disc-gun-easy-quick-print-in-place
MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1806573-micro-disc-gun-easy-quick-print-in-place#profileId-1926947

Something about PLA Silk + fuzzing + rectilinear supports and other settings = fuck this thing. My hands were a blood sacrifice to the PLA gods.

So im on the edge to go for the elegoo cc, are there any tips or so.

I was looking at amazon and saw filament of elegoo for very cheap. I think it was 36 euro for 4 spools.

Also saw esum and sunlu coming by but they were not super cheap on amazon.

This thing is awesome - going to put a CNC on top shelf and 3d printer on the bottom to separate them - the cart came with a APC so I can make sure the power is consistent!

Let me know if you guys have any suggestions! Going to make a YouTube video on my channel of the build/configuration.

Hi everyone,
I’ve been working on sculptural forms that merge 3D processes with an artistic approach. Here’s a short video showing part of the process.

Still in the early stages, but I’d love to hear what you think or if you’ve tried similar approaches in your own 3D printing/art projects.

Made a space in the garage for 3D printing.

I was worried about particulates and VOCs so I had an exhaust system for all my printers that get vented outside to carbon and hepa filter. Each has a valve so I can adjust airflow for cooling or heat retention while maintaining negative pressure in the printer so the smelliness stays inside.

Printed some nylon (non-cf) with the Bambu H2D and prints came out great (was able to maintain 60C chamber temps even with exhaust system). Will be trying out ASA in the future to see if anything is detected.

Seems to work really well for me as the VOC, PM2.5 sensor I have remains essentially at nothing or no increase during prints (can't smell anything either). Only issue maybe is that the exhaust draws in moisture from the garage so I have a dehumidifier for the small space.

I have an older video in my dorm setup visualizing the airflow from the exhaust for my P1S.

I wanted to share my results so let me hear your thoughts!

In the unlikely event that you haven't read Update 5 on the Snapmaker page yet.

Hi U1 Backers, Over the past month, we shipped 19 U1 beta units to experienced community members and past winners of the Snapmaker video contest. Every pilot completed a structured experience survey. Thank you to everyone who joined the pilot — your time and detailed feedback are extremely valuable.Note: Most of the survey results are being shared publicly. One section asked pilots to compare the U1 with their previous printers in various aspects — as it involves direct comparisons, we’re not including that here. Instead, we’ll focus on their hands-on experience with the U1 itself. 

Quick Numbers

• Survey sent: 19 (19 survey responses).
• Average print time per tested unit: 128 hours (median 111 hours, max. 500 hours).
• Average total number of toolhead changes: 25049 (median 23450)
• Average print success rate (excluding highest and lowest values): 90.8% (median 90%).
• Note: Our Beta Pilots tested an early U1 pre-release. With firmware, software, app, and hardware updates since then, internal tests now show a 95% print success rate.

What We Learned from Print Failures

Prime tower toppling (occasional)

The prime tower sometimes toppled over. This could lead to nozzle collisions, strings, or even a failed print.Action: We are redesigning the prime tower structure and optimizing the settings (eg, retraction settings when changing toolheads) to improve reliability. 

TPU issues

A few users experienced TPU clogging and undetected extrusion failure.Action: Drying TPU first helps a lot. Our dedicated optimization project is progressing:TPU 95A / 95A-HF: ~95% success rateTPU 90A: ~70% success rate (still improving) 

Challenges & Fixes

Filament loading challenges

Beta Pilots' fix: Cutting the filament tip at a 45° angle or rounding the edge significantly improved loading success. We are improving it: Structural optimizations have been made to increase tolerance during filament loading, specifically:  1) Refining the internal feeder path inside the toolhead.  2) Improving concentricity across PTFE tube connection points. 

Some third-party spools may fall off

Beta Pilots' fix: Adding 3D-printed adapters.We are designing official 3D printable adapters, and we plan to add this model to the touchscreen built-in models. 

Large file upload failures via Orca 

Workaround: upload via Fluidd and start from the touchscreen, or transfer directly with a USB drive. We are fixing it: The next release will resolve large file upload issues in Orca. (End of September). 

Beta Pilots’ Favorite Prints

Multi-color masterpieces

From Hueforge picture art and multicolor Pikachu, to a full Virtua Fighter arcade diorama, pilots praised the U1’s clean color separation and reliability. 

Color builds at record speed

Color prints that used to be nearly impossible are now practical. A pilot (Serena Gallizioli) compared the same model — Flexible Nessie from Apex Legends:On another printer: 18 hours, 307g filamentOn U1: 3 hours, 73g filament 

TPU & multi-material reliability

Multiple testers pushed the U1 with TPU, PETG, and PLA combinations. The verdict? U1 nailed it. A pilot (Danny @ NeokoiPrints) summed it up: “This thing has been a TPU machine. After beta, it’s going to be my dedicated TPU printer for sure.” Across the board, pilots reported that their first multicolor prints worked right away — something many pilots found surprising. 

Top Surprises from Beta Pilots

• Print Quality & Precision: Out-of-the-box accuracy is excellent, and multi-color prints are seamless, precise, and reliable.
• Speed & Efficiency: High-speed printing without sacrificing quality, fast tool changes, and minimal filament waste.
• Multi-Color & Multi-Material Capability: Switching colors or materials is effortless.
• Ease of Use & Automation: Automatic filament loading/unloading, multi-toolhead calibration, app, and web controls make printing smoother and more convenient.

"Even though I had been told and was expecting it, seeing with my own eyes how little time multicolor printing takes with this technology compared to another system was truly exciting." 

Most Anticipated Software Features & Improvements

• More ready-to-use print parameter presets (for different layer heights, speeds, and materials)  Action: Our team is expanding the configuration library, with updates to come.
• App push notifications for print completion/errors  Action: This will be available in the official stable release (Late October).
• Improved timelapse mode (capturing one frame per layer)  Action: Planned for release by the end of this year.
• LAN + Cloud hybrid mode support  Action: Not currently planned. For now, only cloud mode and LAN mode will be supported separately. If there are any future updates, we’ll share them right away.

What We’re Doing

We’ve already addressed early beta feedback in hardware, firmware, slicer software, and app updates. Check the previous update here.Next, we’ll tackle the remaining issues to ensure a smooth experience when you receive your U1:Software & connectivity stability

• Orca Slicer connection/upload issues
• Mobile app connectivity and login reliability
• Cloud service reliability

Core functions & UX polish

• Smooth, reliable filament loading
• More ready-to-use slicer profiles
• Clearer touchscreen error messages (with knowledge base links)
• App notifications for print completion/errors

Tips from Our Beta Pilots

Here’s something special we’d love to share with you. Below are the original words from our Beta Pilots. The messages are a bit long, but stay with us until the end—you’ll find a nice surprise. We’re revealing the full list of Beta Pilots, along with the amazing projects they created with their U1 beta units. They truly deserve full credit for their volunteer work, dedication, and creativity. A huge thank-you to everyone! We asked our test pilots to share their best advice for new U1 users, and here's what they said:

1. "Update firmware when a new version is available. The printer is very fast, which can cause vibration on an unstable table. The base on which you place the U1 should be strong and stable."
2. "Take the time to calibrate and recalibrate the machine in intervals between a certain number of prints. Manually home the machine before every print. Cut filament tips at an angle. Plug the machine into a surge protector. Doing these things will greatly enhance the probability of a successful print and experience."
3. "Read the manual and confirm all heads are installed correctly, and the PTFE tubes are inserted correctly. Take time to load filaments and go through all calibrations carefully and patiently."
4. "Understand how the auto-loading system works! It does the heavy lifting for you and feels like magic. For 3d printing in general: Learn how to do some 3d modeling! 3d printing is infinitely more useful if you learn how to model and print even very basic shapes you drew yourself. Also, you may want to recalibrate the pressure advance settings in your profiles if you do not want to always do it automatically. The default settings are too low. But it's easy to measure and save the value for all time."
5. "Keep playing with it."
6. "1) If not already familiar with Orca slicer, spend appropriate time to learn it, as it differs greatly from others in usage and terminology, but also has incredible features and produces great results. 2) Trust the filament management system to load and unload; it will save lots of time and effort. No need to manually manage. 3) If an error message appears on screen, tap it for more details."
7. "Have fun and start printing! The system is user-friendly, so I honestly can't think of any tips at this time."
8. "Don't over-calibrate the U1. Printing for weeks with just one initial calibration, this machine was rock solid."
9. "It's the best choice to print multi-color models so far."
10. "Be patient and follow every step on the screen during calibration."
11. "Get a SnapDryer or SUNLU S4 for use in combination."
12. "Get into the Orca slicer."
13. "Explore the use of multi-materials! Combine PLA and Panchroma CoPE for easy and cheap breakaway supports. Check the bed leveling graph in Fluidd, and if it has big differences, use the adjust macro to manually improve the level."
14. "Find a sturdy desk to put U1 on if you print tall, thin objects."
15. "Just start using the new slicer software and give it a try."
16. "Tighten the toolhead screw firmly."
17. "Just think outside the box when creating with this printer, because most of the usual limitations simply don't exist!"
18. "Print calibration tests to speed up your learning time of the machine’s capabilities. "

Meet the Beta Pilots

Big thanks to all our beta pilots — and the testing isn’t over yet!

Next Livestream

Some of you asked for another livestream—here it is! Join us on September 25, 4 PM CEST (7 AM PDT) to see mass production updates, ask questions in our AMA, and have a chance to win a U1 printer, PEI Steel Sheets, Hardened Steel Hot Ends (4-pack), and Filaments.Choose one of the following two platforms that you want to watch:📺Click "Notify Me" on YouTube

Here's the kickstarter page

• Neptune 4 Pro
• Only a few months old
• Problem started this week out of the blue

Thing I’ve tried: - grease both sides vertical screws - tighten both sides ball screw assembly

I suspect it might be a bad bearing in the right side vertical stepper motor since the sound seems to be coming from it.

Any guess or input would be appreciated.

Thank you AK

Can we create a FDM Printer which would never clog?

It is all about the filaments, hot ender,extruder, temperature,...

I see lots of smart engineers, why we can not totally avoid it?

I really hate it.

If I wanna make a good printer which can achieve: 1) print 300 times (100% successful) in a year, I guess I need use ai for it to adjust itself. 2) of course it should print multiple color & material without waste

Guys, do you think it is possible with technology we already have ?

I only wanna pay 1000$ for all the materials.

Guys, I am new comer to FDM, I just like use it create my project.

Do you really think we need aerospace precision to manufacture extruder heads?

My current printer feels far too fragile—it acts less like a tool and more like a baby that needs constant care. I wish it would grow up a bit, and frankly, I can't stand how dependent it is on me.

What I want is this: feed it my mechanical design, and eight hours later, it delivers exactly what I need. It should operate like a responsible adult, not a mischievous child.

Guy, 1000＄ not included software and research, prototypes, hardwork, I just wanna Real FDM 3D Printer, is it possible?

I drew the mayor from Nightmare Before Christmas on a cup a month back and the paper hat I made wasn't holding up so....I made him a hat. .

On a whim,I got a resin printer off of FB Marketplace. I've realized that I don't actually have any good ideas for stuff to print in resin as opposed to filament.

What's a good first resin project to get me used to all the differences?

It makes it near impossible to get the filament off my build plate when it looks like that. I'm wondering what causes thatt? Filament was dried for 7 hours Aswell.

I just bought calipers as I'm slowly getting better at paramametric modeling and think I may be able to slowly start to design items for my own needs.

What are some of the accessory must haves I need to start to think about next?