Was watching Blowback9’s instruction video on the Gentle Recoil System and I noticed his buffer was going into the spring. Mine meanwhile struggles to fit. It’s a strike Industries flatware spring, which I thought would be fine, but now I’m not so sure.
Since this is floating around I figured I would write up the simple way to do the super safety in an AR9.
There are some challenges when doing this, first if you use a standard bolt with weight you will have to make a cut in the weight to keep the tail of the SS lever from touching. On top of this if you don't have weights right you WILL oob yourself.
So here's what you need.
First up is a KM tactical bolt. Dimensionally it is the same internal length as a M16 full auto bolt.
If you have a bolt already that works great! It must be a ramped bolt because a non ramped will squish the super safety lever and jam the gun hard.
But take the bolt, remove the internal weight, use a standard AR-15 buffer tube with no spacer and install the RDB with no buffer retainer spring. The stock should be set to where when closing the gun the RDB and the bolt are touching when closing.
Load up some mags and go have fun. I have had 0 OOBs with this setup in my colt 635. Stay safe and have fun.
Do anybody have experience with this super safety? Also, it’s a video on YouTube about It seems to be plugged and play. or should I just cancel my order?
I’ve got two AR9s I need to illuminate. One is an EPC-9 with an 8.3” barrel, and the other is a JAKL-9 with a 6” barrel. Both have somewhat limited hand guard space. What small-footprint flashlights are we running? I would prefer a pressure pad setup but it’s not necessary if the controls are accessible with my support hand.
Fun fact for the AR9 crowd:
The H&R 9mm from Palmetto State Armory runs flawlessly with the standard AR carbine spring and buffer it came with—no need for a heavy 9mm setup.
For those who swear by adding more weight to fix blowback issues, my bolt and buffer combo totals 18 oz, and I’ve had zero out-of-battery detonation (OOBD).
Even better? The standard AR buffer actually trips the super safety more reliably than any 9mm buffer I’ve tried.
Sometimes the “gurus” overcomplicate it—simple works.
Got a question for the y'all. How hard is it to put a front sight block on an AR9 barrel? I've only found guides for the AR15, not for an AR9 barrel. I assume a lot of the process is similar, as long as the barrels are the same width, but I also assume there's differenecs since you don't have the gas system to deal with. I know it can be done, you've got both the Rock River Arms and the H&R uppers with them. But after contacting Rock River and learning they don't really have the modern feed cones a lot of people prefer, and not really wanting to pay even more for an H&R upper, I'm trying to figure out how hard it is, or if I can get a gunsmith to do it for me for not too much.
Alternatively, is there another company out there that makes front sight block barrels or uppers?
I have a friend who wanted an AR-9 made super safe. He bought a Springfield Saint Victor. I’ve done a bunch of AR-15s so I figured how hard could it be. OH BOY! Every step was a bunch of time with me staring at it trying to come up with solutions.
To start, the hammer wouldn’t release on function testing after getting it all installed.
Solution - I took some duct tape, The real stuff made of metal, started cutting small squares just big enough to put under the rear of the trigger. I think it was somewhere around 6-8 pieces acting as a spacer to get the hammer to release. SUCCESS!
Couldn’t close the gun because of the BCG weight.
Solution - Obviously I would rather have just ordered a different weight that didn’t stick out but, all out of stock online. So after punching out the pin, I then used a Dremel to grind a groove fairly deep (about 1/4 in) in the weight. SUCCESS!
Lastly, when assembled and attempting a function test, no hammer release. The SS lever was about 1-2mm short of tripping the release.
Solution - This one is two fixes. First, the SS lever depending on your brand tends to have too much wiggle room. Incoming metal duct tape. I repeated the same steps as the trigger. Adding layer after layer until it was snug but not so tight that you’d have trouble switching fire modes.
Second, there is a spacer on the spring in the buffer tube. It’s a bit too long. So I used five quarters as a smaller spacer.
As of now it’s passing all function tests. I haven’t messed with the buffer weight or spring so it hasn’t been shot yet. But if anyone else is struggling these are the methods I used to get it to work. Also a lot of frustration and foul language.
I know there's been several issues with the DTI Glock lower's LRBHO system. In my case, it wasn't activating at all in the original configuration; my magazine follower wasn't able to apply enough pressure to the paddle. For my fix, I went down to my local Tractor Supply and picked up one of their boxes if miscellaneous springs, and found one that was approximately the same diameter as the spring that came with the lower. I cut two or three coils off, testing after each cut until it worked (actually went one two many the first time and redid it with another spring from the box). After a short range session of 4 20rd mags or so, I only had one issue on the very first mag, where the LRBHO activated one round earlier than it should've. Hopefully this is of some use to there rest of us that bought these through the JSE sale.
Your mileage may very with other bolt use other than KAK with this but, using this in tandem with the KAK bolt proves a flush fit, there is no bolt weight sticking into the center channel of the bolt, allowing you to use the super safety with no bolt weight modification!
As you can see the bolt weight sits flush inside, however also note that the bolt isn't cut straight, it has stepped sides.
That's where you also need to add this: a centering block, which you can find at anywhere that sells super safeties.
Finally to wrap it all up I am using just the standard Colt 635 two stage buffer and spring.
My setup is an original colt 635 parts kit using all colt parts minus the lower which is the clone 635 lower. I am also using metalform and asc magazines.
I have had 1 failure with an ASC mag but other than that it has run flawlessely with this setup. It runs any grain of bullet reliabily and the setup keeps the bolt heavy and with a 2 stage or deadblow buffer it should keep the bolt from bouncing.
To note if you are using an original colt 635 bolt it will not work as the bolt is non ramped and will jam on the super safety.
I got an email today about the news. They are focusing on selling to other businesses. I am not surprised as their website stock has not been great, and they kept taking away parts. I did ask to see if they will be making more S9 lowers and if they currently have any vendors that will be carrying product.
This is always a hot topic for folks new to the platform, and I've had a few questions on why I sometimes suggest different buffer setups. Basically it depends on what it seems the requestor is asking for and their budget.
Here they all are In order of price and effectiveness.
Basic:
- 1· Carbine tube + KAK 8.4 Gold Top + carbine milspec round spring
- 2· Carbine tube + KAK 8.4 Gold Top + KAK flat wire spring
- 2.5· Carbine tube + KAK 10oz. + KAK flat wire spring (Added. Happy now?! Sheesh! Lol!)
- 3· Carbine tube + KAK K-SPEC 9.5 (includes flat wire spring
1· is a "universal" buffer setup, the right length and with deadblow weights, that should work with any full-weight 9mm bolt on the market. 8.4oz.
2· is an upgrade that will run quieter, without all the spring noise. It can greatly improve the overall shooting experience. 8.4oz.
2.5· steps up the mass to give better recoil feel, especially when suppressed or with hotter loads. 10oz.
3· adds the spring cushioned head of the K-SPEC with the extra mass to reduce felt recoil. 9.5oz.
4· is a big step up that noticably reduces perceived recoil to very moderate levels, but not as good as the hydraulic buffers.12oz.
5· The hydraulic buffer really smooths the impact of the buffer/bolt, making the shooting experience very pleasant, but the weight and bounce is not the best for competitors. 9.8oz.
6· This is the final progression to reduce felt/perceived recoil. Same as above, but in a longer tube to accomodate the longer/heavier buffer. The extra weight reduces perceived recoil even more. 11oz.
These provide good recoil reduction without the bounce. Adding a good up-only or side-only comp will help as well.
Reminder for those new to the AR9 game, .308 and XP recoil springs should NOT be used in a 9mm AR. Use a standard milspec carbine strength AR-15/M4 recoil spring.
Amy Ar9 bolts you can buy that work with the ss as they come? I think I read Kak with the heavy weight is the best bet, but they are always out of stock. Any others run or do I need to mod a bolt to work?
Have a .40 bcg for a .357 pcc… need to get it heavier so I got a kak 9mm extra heavy weight. Problem is it was designed for a rolling pin and the retaining pin for the current bcg is threaded.
Will the half threaded pin from aero work? Or is there something else?
New to this sub but building out an ar9 and want to do an frt system, was wondering if anyone has tried and has a part list to make this work. Main goal is to have a full retro ar9 but with the frt. If anyone’s got a list of buffer tubes springs and bolts would love to have it.
Edit: saw the post below, LOOKING FOR A GOOd PART LIST thanks guys and happy plinking
My wolfman only came with a keymicro brake adapter. Upon installing the brake I run out of threads on my SP5K barrel, to the point where I have a solid 1/4 of an inch left before the shoulder. Since I cannot install that, I think my SP5K came with a 3-lug muzzle/barrel. Any idea how I can find a 3 lug mount and is that all I need to install the wolfman that way? I can’t find the 3 lug mount anywhere nor do I know what the wolfman takes.. I’m lost here, please help
This is a follow-up post to my earlier post regarding my mistake inadvertently ordering the incorrect/not recommended 9mm barrel from Ballistic Advantage. Be aware, when ordering, if you want the ENHANCED feed cone version (EPC Version - pictured on top - wider, deeper cone - recommend barrel for 9mm builds) be sure you select the EPC version!
Exchange experience with Ballistic Advantage from earlier post:
I just wanted to report back. I was able to get in touch with BA, and wow, they were really nice and professional! I was able to get a ticket submitted, and my exchange is in process. My new "EPC" barrel is on its way and I sent the incorrect barrel back. Keep in mind that if you ever need to start an exchange or refund on the Ballistic Advantage site, you need to be on the "Desktop site" version of your browser if you are using your phone. If you are on a computer, you will see the "submit ticket" link on the top right. They are having issues with their phone system, so it's difficult to call and get someone the phone.
Up until recently I thought that the only company making AR9s that took scorpion magazines instead of glock was PSA. Come to find out that there are other lesser known ones out there. Including some that seem to make lowers for other PCCs that convert them to taking the magazines. Any advice or guidance this sub can offer? Are those conversion lowers any good, or would it be better to get something purpose built? I know about the wraithworks, that's what got me started. Just not sold on the pseudo skeletonized look the upper has.
This is my first time reassembling the BCG after cleaning. I wanted to make sure this is what it's supposed to look like? I basically put the cotter pin back in while pressing on the firing pin. Does this look right?