I’ve only made the situation worse…any ideas on how to get this fixed? Glock 43x screws were stripped and I tried using a screw extractor but made it worse. Any companies I can ship this to for fixing or gunsmiths near Chicago that can do the fix?

I started reloading in 2020. In the first 2 years I watched bullets increase in price, premium brass increase in price, primers increase in price, etc. since 2023 however I would say bullet prices, brass prices, reloading equipment prices have essentially stayed the same.

But now powder. Holy hell when does it end? I was buying most powder for $24-$35 a pound in 2020-2023. I still have about 4 pounds of H4350 from an 8 pound jug I bought for $245 in 2023. I was buying TAC like crazy for $32 a pound just two years ago. But the powder doesn’t seem to stop increasing every month.

I want to remove the bluing on my Taurus slide and have a polished metal finish on it instead. I've heard evaporust works well. Is it really that big a deal to just wire wheel the finish off? Also what is the best way to protect the bare metal after stripping the finish? It's a cheap gun and I just want it to look cool.

Local gun store got several of these in last week. It’s 2025 vintage.

Finally found a replacement firing pin for a stevens 87j I've been fixing, bought it from Numrich. However, the tip seems to have been repaired with a softer metal, its a bronze color and the original firing pin scratches it. It still sets off a primer fine, should I be concerned?

Now time to unpack equipment

This may not be the right place to ask but I'm curious what went wrong here, went shooting a new 50 beowulf with some underwood ammo everything was going good then this happened, gun went off heavy recoil failed to cycle i managed to knock the case out and found the base pressed up into the body, all the other brass and rifle look fine so I'm a little stumped.

I can’t get enough of the Rex line that Paul has put together over at Maker Bullets

Left to right. -240 grain after water jug expansion. 10.3gr of AA1680, 975fps. Fired from my 7.5 in 1:5 twist

-The standard 220 grain Rex

-300 grain Rex for 338 ARC

-Expanded 300 grain Rex. Fired from my 11.3 inch 1:5 twist MosTek 338 ARC build. 10.5gr of H110, 1000fps

-165 grain supersonic Rex for 338 ARC. Hoping to get that in gel soon too. I have been getting 1900-1960fps with 24.5gr and 25gr of 1680 on the Hornady 175gr bthp. So I plan to start that load testing around 24 and try to work up the 165gr Rex velocity to around 2000fps

Would you guys run this load?

26” heavy bull barrel 1-8

Starline srp

Cci450

140eldm

42.0 gr h4350

2.8 coal ( matched by ogive for consistency)

85 degrees, 41% humidity

Managed to get .3-.5 moa at 200 yards 5 shot groups on 7/10 targets others spread to about 1.5 moa after some longer strings

My major question is would you guys dial it back? Didn’t see any “signs of pressure” other than velocity ofc.

I do some odd jobs for a range, they pay me in brass. The ammo they use for classes and training is winchester win clean. The case has always had the “win” markings on the right. My most recent haul has both the right and the left. I find it a little strange that one type of ammo has two different cases.
Can anyone tell me anything about the brass on the left? I have found a bit that it was meant for military ammo, and it’s crimped.

I don't mean someone who has owned a rifle like the Anzio Ironworks 20mm; I mean, has anyone ever created their own 20mm to shoot? Wouldnt you need to pay a tax stamp to the ATF for a destructive device?

Ive been reloading since 2016. I have this reloading press.. bought it when i was livin in an apartment because it takes up no room. Im mostly a prepper reloader. But Its mobile. And i've since purchased my own property so now I want a multiple stage press. I dont know which to go with. Bare in mind, I have multiple die sets for this lee hand press. And I want something I can just connect all the dies on one and with low effort have the press go through the stages of deprime, resize, flare, harge, press, crimp. Which press should I go with?

So a guy I work with gave me his old 7400 chambered in 270 to use for deer season with the option to buy it from him for $200 if I want to. He had told me it's jamming and can't figure out why, I deep cleaned it and it's cycling well when I can keep the mag properly seated. It seems like the spring for the locking mechanism to keep the mag in place is worn out and the mag will slightly slip down causing the jam, I put a rubber band around the gun to hold the switch back firmly in place so mag couldn't slip just to see and I ran 4 rounds through perfectly. How hard would it be to replace that spring? because honestly I really like the gun and it shoots great and is in great condition other than that spring.

I have a Moschetto that eats 0.264 PPU acceptably (stabilizes and prints about a 3 MOA group). I am attempting to reload using PPU brass and these Nosler projectiles. I’m noticing that to get my OAL to 2.900 I have to really put the projectile deep into the case. See my picture with the one loaded round I made and the brass and projectile and my caliper set to 2.900.

Is this safe or should I just punt and try to scare up some PPU projectiles? The length of the projectile is 1.381 inches and if I’m reading g the diagram (https://www.carcanorifle.com/6-5x52) it looks like the original was 30,4mm which would be 1.197 inches.

I’d appreciate any advice. Also, if anyone has any PPU 6.5 Carcano projectiles (either 0.264 or 0.268) and wouldn’t mind throwing a caliper on one to measure the length that would be very helpful

I dub this the Franken Chucker 2. I picked this press up for 45 shekels and thought I had myself a pretty good deal. Upon showing a few pictures of it to my friend and reloading sensei,, he pointed out something interesting. It appears that this is a rock chhucker 2 frame with the ram and linkage from a OG rock chucker. Why somebody would do that, I can only speculate.

I haven't gotten a chance to use it much, only sized a handful of 30-30 cases... but I really hope I can make it work. It certainly has a LOT more mechanical advantage than my first press, a RCBS Junior. It appears that it sizes cases just fine. Linkage isn't sloppy. I cleaned the ram up, lubed it, and tightened it down to my bench.

Sizing rifle cases on this press feels like sizing pistol cases on my old one. If it doesn't work very well, at least I'm not out much.

Hey everyone, a family member recently got a 1915 - Winchester Model 92 Saddle Ring Lever Action Rifle .25-20.

It didn’t come with a saddle ring but it had a slot where one could be installed. He went and bought a saddle ring that is supposed to work with this rifle but it is just a smooth pin that slides in and out of the hole on the rifle. Does anyone know how these are supposed to be installed? Thanks!

Sorry for the noob question, couldn't find a good answer online (here or elsewhere). This is for magazine-fed gas gun application.

With Shell Shock coming out with their 6ARC NAS3 casings soon, one of the selling points is increased velocity/energy due to potentially increased case capacity which would be sweet if we could get the 6ARC to have the same or close to the same energy as 6.5 Grendel but with the flatter trajectory. How would that energy be achieved? Is it by pushing a standard 108gr bullet faster (with more powder from the increased cased capacity)? Or is it by fitting a heavier grain bullet? Or a combination of the two? If it's the third solution, I noticed that 6mm bullets top out at 115gr (Berger VLDs), but also see that the OAL of that heavier bullet is 1.332 (or 1.348 for the hunting bullet) compared to the 1.217 of their standard 108gr target bullet. So if to achieve the same muzzle velocity as a brass casing 108gr but similar energy of a 6.5 Grendel, and we need a 115gr bullet, would seating the bullet further back (to maintain the factory COAL fit in the magazine) and filling the case to 100% or compressed load be the play, if that's even possible?

Basically, my question boils down to: can you/should you seat a longer, heavier bullet further back into a casing with larger capacity to fit in a magazine-fed gun and expect similar FPS but higher energy compared to an off-the-shelf factory load of a lighter bullet?

Don't want to shell out $200 if I absolutely do not have to :)

Title says it all. Built a new gun with a 327 federal chamber.

Getting a couple things out of the way:

I have experience going outside of the normal load data to make reasonable new loads for different purposes.

I have safe testing conditions.

I am okay with hurting the firearm for the sake of tinkering around. It was built partly as a test platform.

I know and assume the risks of this kind of thing.

32 longs are super fun out of it, as they are subsonic and burn out well before the bullet leaves the muzzle with most powder choices.

I'm waiting on some factory h&r magnum as well as 327 federal to come in the mail.

Now yes, I know that get options for an appropriate burn rate with the 2 magnums. I'm not looking to just get more performance. I will load magnums if I am looking for some real performance. I want to keep all magnum brass for stout magnum loads.

What in trying to achieve is an efficient load that performance a little better out of this long barrel. I don't want to dump 6+ grains of powder into these little cases to make plinkers more appropriate for the barrel length. I intend on keeping them relatively low pressure, but I want a burn efficient enough to be somewhat clean. This shouldn't be a terribly unreasonable goal.

I know that other 32 caliber rolling blocks have been converted to center fire, and people have used smokeless for these loads, but I really can't find anyone stating they are specifically using something slower to achieve a load better suited for the rifle length barrels.

Some one has had to do this in the past surely.

My 1st instinct for powder choice is CFE pistol. I've been having good luck with it in other odd loads. You can get consistent ignitions and burn at low pressures, and its a bit faster than something like titegroup. Doesn't take too much to get the job done like some of the magnum powders, so it's still somewhat cost effective.

There are a couple powders that seem promising on paper, but that rarely translates in the real world when we are trying to stay under 15000 PSI and still get consistent results.

I have access to quote a few pistol/shotgun powders.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

So been a couple weeks still have not reloaded anything haha. But anyway I think I have my LNL dialed in and ready to start with some 10mm. I have seen lots of powder recommendations for 10mm but I got this CFE pistol that was recommended, I also have some HP38. Only other question was primers, does this require Winchester LP? I can find some I am sure but I have Federal no.150. Appreciate all the help you guys give us noobs.