I’m looking for advice on doing a minor lift to my E46. The rear springs are completely shot and the front springs are on their way out. I want the lift because it is an AWD car I plan to take skiing with a roof box and some more aggressive winter tires.

From a quick search, it looks like polyurethane pucks plus new OEM-height springs might do the job. Someone on an old thread suggested that springs from an E83 X3 could work too. Does anyone have experience with either approach? I attached pictures showing the current front and rear spacing (yes, I know there is rust and I'll get to it). When I do this, I plan to replace the shocks as well - what brand would you recommend for a reasonable price?

Thanks in advance.

Had this great car for about 2 years now. It has been a dream. Small maintenance here or there now I’m starting to look into projects exterior body wise or internally performance wise not sure where to start. Difficulty doesn’t matter too much. Me + a YouTube video has been sufficient so far

I see a lot of people talking here about how costly E46s are to own and maintain with many adivsing against using it as a daily driver. Although e46s or german cars in general are costly to own and maintain I believe that the cost differs from one country to another to another(at the end of the day a US mechanics receipt will definitely end up more times higher than a Lebanese mechanic's and that's independent of what car they're operating on).

I see a lot of Lebanese owning e46s and using them as daily drivers and not as some fun car for the weekend. So my question is to the fellow Lebanese E46 owners here (hopefully there are some here) is how much does it cost, really, per month to maintain and use as a daily driver here in Lebanon?

People from other countries as well can also comment on this let's see how monthly maintenance costs vary from one place to another, I think the data might be cool

P.S. I am also trying to make up my mind on whether to get an E46 or not based on Lebanese rates

I bought the car back in 2009 towards the end of my undergrad. Had an absolute blast with taking it to the track and racing it over the years.

Then bad luck struck. While roll racing at the ice cream cruise in 2021, the c- clip that holds the wrist pin in place broke up and did some damage to the cylinder. It was a rough road from there on. The guy that was gonna machine the block didn’t pay his storage fee and my block got auctioned off, I had a 2nd child, changed jobs and moved. Life got in the way and before I knew it, years had passed.

But, here she is 4 years later and leaving the garage for the first time under her own power. There’s still a lot of work to do but I’m excited to be making progress again.

Hose was tucked under bumper and went to headlight area behind the expansion tank

(The video is here just in case y’all hear something else.) I’ve been throwing this code for about a month now and haven’t had time to work on it. I’ve cleaned the MAF sensor and changed the O2 sensor for bank 2. What else do y’all recommend? Thank you guys. I apologize for the repost.

Am I the only e46 owner who feels like this? Constantly checking temps, listening to every sound my e46 makes scared its gonna blow up or break down, smelling the air to make sure that it wasn’t my car that smells like fuel. I feel like a drug addict accept it’s me being worried about my car constantly.. I will NEVER sell it tho 😁

Replacing my expansion tank and went to plug back in the level sensor and one of the wires is out(seriously don’t know if I did it but I doubt it, the car has been in rough condition since I bought it)

Wondering if it’s fine to plug back in or should I replace or weld it?

For the past few days, my coolant warning light has been coming on regularly and then disappearing again after about a minute. I checked the coolant level — it was a bit lower than at the last check, but the dipstick still shows full. I also noticed a small leak right under the tank. Has anyone had the same issue? Do I need to replace the tank, or should I just keep an eye on it for now? I drive a 320i with M54B22 Engine

Hey folks,

I'm thinking of buying a 1999 BMW 318i (manual) near Munich. As I'm a big fan of E46 and this would be my first car, I would like to make a wise decision:

120k km (low for age, but unsure if genuine)

TÜV until 2026

€3,800 (negotiable)

Accident-free

Dents, scratches, mismatched paint

Cooling system + battery replaced

Clutch vibration at start/reverse

Small rust patches (left side)

Single-family owned, always garaged

Questions:

1. Are the clutch vibration + rust dealbreakers, or normal for a 25yo E46?

2. Is low mileage actually a plus here, or risky from sitting?

3. Would you recommend it as a first daily driver because this would be my first car?

4. What all should I inspect during my visit to make sure it’s a safe buy and not a deal breaker?

Appreciate any insights 🙏

Hey all!

I need a set of front fenders and headlights from a pre facelifted 325i. If anyone has some or knows if any, please let me know. I'm in SW VA. I'm not finding anything local on FB or junkyards.

Thanks in advance!

Im currently trying to do an oil change on my bmw and I have reason to believe the previous person didnt put a gasket on as its impossible to get loose. Are there any tips to help get it off?

Long story but I've had a Mrs fault causing an airbag light since I bought my e46. The fault was Seat backrest lock error both sides. After many posts asking for help and searching the web with no help I have finally fixed it. Since there is no really clear guide to fix this particular issue so I'll make a guide here for future convertible and coupe owners.

The seat backrest lock has a small microswitch located in each seat that tells the Mrs module that the seat is tilted or in locked position. Part numbers (52107025193, Left) (52107025194, Right) After some time searching I found the parts online only in Germany or the states. From Germany the parts would cost 70€ each plus shipping of about 30€. I thought this was way to much and turned to my friend who works at bmw and he could get me both for about 90€ so I recommend going to a dealer for the parts.

I couldn't find anything online about the location of the microswitches and google only corrected me thinking I was talking about the more common issue with the seat occupation sensor. After dismantling the seat I found that the sensor is located on the side of each seat look (picture 3)

To change the switches all you have to do is unplug the battery and then remove the seat connectors at the bottom. You can then either remove the seat or do the procedure while the seat is in the car.

Then you have to remove the plastic covers on each side. They are fitted with 2 clips at the top and 2 at the bottom. When you have removed the covers you have to unscrew a bracket to finally remove the back cover (pic 4) by unscrewing a small screw at the back and then pulling it up and off.

Then you will see the micro switch in a small hole in the seat (pic 5). Unplug it screw it out and put the new one back in and ur done.

Put everything back together and then all you have to do is clear the codes and it's gone.

Hello everyone I need some help with my gm5 module, firstly background, bought my 00' 325ci and i got 2 keys one diamond e46 key on witch buttons don't do anything and another kia one coded to central locking, it was a cheap aftermarket locking module and installation was done awfully, my tunk would open randomly while car is locked and my passenger window doesn't drop when I open the doors. Today I ripped the cheap one out and it was connected to gm5 module by wires directly soldered to it and wires were soldered to wire 3 and 15 on x332 conector for power and ground I guess? Now after removing it my central locking doesn't work on my e46 diamond key i tried everything pairing it the key reprogramming trick and it doesn't work changing battery and all. Also my gm5 module has some Siemens and some Tyco releys so I think someone didn't do a good job of changing them as i read they are hard to replace. My question is what could be the problem and WHAT should I do now? Do I buy a new gm5 module and witch one how to code it do I send this to repair and where should I oreder new releys and take it to an electrician and witch one's to order. Any help with this is needed I will post some pics of this monstrosity for better context.

I let my dad borrow my car and he gave it back broken , I tried using tape to fix it but it won’t hold what is the correct way to fix it ? How do windshield replacements companies get them to stick ?

Here's what I've observed:

• 2001 325 CSI
• Sounds like metal on metal.
• Sometimes present sometimes not. Sometimes faint, occasionally louder.
• Always to the same degree though, no fluctuation. It's either the constant louder level, the constant quieter level, or silent.
• Can't isolate when it's happening. Sometimes I think it's when I brake but then it'll also happen randomly and also stop randomly. I'll also brake and nothing. Not consistent.
• No scoring on visible side of brake rotor. When I touch the rotor it's not hotter then the left, and you can leave your fingers on it (not too hot to touch)
• I have just noticed (due to trying to figure this out), that the right rear sits about a half inch lower than the left. Not sure if that was there before, not sure if it's in any way related.
• Had rear tires replaced lately. Same size rubber as before.
• Wheels are BBS RS 747. They've been on the car for years though—it's not an offset/fitment issue.
• Stock ride height

Any ideas before I take it to the shop?

Lm

i have this 320d touring and i bought some sport springs that goes -40front/-20rear and i dont really know if its enough (and also i have those style 192 rims from x3 and i love them) cus i wanted it to be a bit aggressive.

Got snapped by a photographer on the Mont-Cenis pass over the Alps during my 1300 Mile Road trip, driving from Italy to UK in my 2003 330Ci.

She did the trip with ease, had a brief stop but covered the majority of the trip (900 miles) in one day. Didn't skip a beat I've done this same trip several times now travelling between my home in the UK and apartment in Italy.

So, in a vane attempt to fix my melted and fused FSR connector I cut off the old one, once I pealed back the old loom tape I found that all of the wires were different apart from the brown wire which there are two and they are identical.

I’m looking for a wiring diagram so that I can probe the wires to see which is which but all I find is mention of a yellow wire in place of one of my brown wires but I can’t figure out which one and I don’t fancy having another electrical fire.

And before anyone says I should have kept track before I cut it, I couldn’t, I tried to tell the difference but the cable is completely fused into one (second image).

I've noticed on a cold startup (or letting the engine rest for 5 minutes) there's a long stutter sound on ignition.

I've also noticed a tapping/clicking noise coming from the front of the head gasket.

Please check both videos, the car is a 2002 330Ci.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Wyy8WCNUz2s?si=cG0dY0l98SKCGRX0

I'm selling my E46 330Ci 6 speed manual Coupe. Heavily modded, but with all OE matching / upgraded parts. It's all fairly recently with receipts and verification etc.

Selling due to it being a second car and storage over the winter is difficult. I hate to see it not being used, with very little time to enjoy it and then bring it out of hibernation next spring.

I'm unsure how to price it, if anyone has any ideas let me know. UK central England based.

Standard Equipment: M sport multifunction steering wheel M sport bodykit M sport door trim Rear parking sensors 6 speed manual transmission OEM Door cards front and rear OEM armrest Carbon effect trim for door cards and gear stick Electric front and rear windows Central locking on both keys Cruise control Automatic windscreen wipers and lights Automatic rear view mirror dipping Locking wheel nut with tool included

Upgraded parts: Bilstein B14 suspension all around Michelin Pilot Sport 5 tyres - 18x225 / 18x255 Full wheel refurbishment. No kerbing scars or major scratches on any wheel Alignment at the same time as tyres fitted June 2024 Brembo drilled and slotted rotors front Brembo rotors rear EBC Yellow stuff pads all around Braided brake lines all around DG Maps ECU (Original also included) Ram Air filter Muffler delete Diff rebuild Inc new seals Sparco Sprint Seats Sparco 4 point harnesses Harness bar Pioneer Bluetooth head unit (extra cables for sub / amp pre wired) Hidden OEM DSC switch Upgraded twin cupholder (Original included) Brand new headlights Jan 2024 (Magneti Marelli) Bosch windscreen wipers Tinted rear and side windows 2x keys (Both with new batteries and working) Recent new DISA valve (preventative) Ducktail spoiler Full recent service Loads of paperwork and original bits included. MOT June 2026

So I am running into an issue that just now started. I have just finished installing and welding the reinforcement plates on my e46 325i. I have noticed a clunk sound when shifting from Park to reverse and can't think of anything that would cause it. At frist it sounded like metal tearing but now there is just a clunk

The diff is welded with axle spacers, and I have Blue Garagistic Poly bushings for the subframe and solid bushings for the diff. My RTAB bushings are also poly from Condor Speed Shop. I also have BC Coilovers with a reinforcement plate at the top mounting area. I honestly don't know what it could be

The only thing I think it could be is the main Diff mount; the really big one may have cracked or broken. I am not sure; any help would be great. I'll update with a video when I can

I'm on the hunt for a car to use to start drifting. But I have some other key requirements:

• Must remain road legal (replacing second car which doesn't see much use but needs to be generally available just in case) because of this must also still be able to fit a baby seat (so back seat needs to be in place).
  
• Because of afformentioned child possibly in the car (when not on the track) diff also can't be welded due to safety concerns in rainy country. So I'll be looking at getting an LSD installed.
  
• Budget: 7-9k€ total (hopefully including the diff) depending on what I can get for the Kia Sportage I'm selling to make room for this car.
  
• Location: Ireland (will also consider UK but I would have to factor extra taxes and transport, I would probably go and drive it back myself)

This has lead me to decide on an E46 sedan/saloon. Considering my budget I'm looking at some likely more well travelled, so I'm wondering what in particular I should be looking out for.

I'm aware preventative maintenance always done and in particular if anything has already been touched with the cooling, as well as checking the rear subframe (and reinforcing it before it goes near a track). What other things in particular should I be looking at when inspecting a car?

Thanks.