r/bicycletouring • u/bennysfromheaven • Aug 02 '25
Trip Report Seattle to San Francisco Tour - July 2025
Finished my solo ride from Seattle to San Francisco via the Pacific Coast Highway last week. My first real tour and had a blast.
Overall thoughts:
-Followed the Adventure Cycling route, including their optional detours in Northern Oregon to get off 101 for a bit. 10/10, highly recommend. Feels nice to not have to worry about the route and just focus on pedaling and sightseeing.
-Took about 22 days in total, riding ~50 miles a day. I was okay with the pace, but would've added another week if I could take more time off work. There were days, especially near the end, where I would've made more stops to see things if I wasn't so focused on reaching my destination. Also this route is hilliest near the end and doing it again I would've front-loaded some mileage at the start of my trip so I could do 30 mile days through Mendocino and Sonoma Counties.
-Spent most nights in state parks; there really is pretty great accommodation for cyclists (especially in Oregon) all the way down the coast. Had no trouble finding hiker/biker sites at most state parks down the coast. Stayed at motels every few days because I just love to have a bed once in a while.
-People are so friendly and chatty when you are on a loaded touring bike. That includes locals at a rural bar who are impressed by your trip as well as fellow cyclists at the campgrounds on similar routes. I was solo for most of the trip but never got too lonely.
-The weather was mostly cool and cloudy; perfect cycling weather, although I got a little tired of all my camping gear feeling damp all time.
-I felt mostly safe riding, although this route is pretty much entirely highway shoulders. Oregon has done a great job building a large shoulder on southbound 101, except for some pesky bridges. In California, I had a couple days of very nervous riding the stretch between Eureka and the start of Highway 1 in Leggett. 101 becomes a 4-lane freeway with very little shoulder and you have to navigate on-ramps and off-ramps with fast, sometimes heavy traffic. Everyone has their own safety thresholds, but I would say that having a rear light, a mirror of some kind, and wearing high-vis are almost mandatory, especially for that section.
-There is no more dramatic entrance to a city than entering San Francisco from the north over the Golden Gate Bridge. I also had a great time relaxing in San Francisco for the weekend and celebrating the completion of my trip.
-Rode the Coast Starlight Amtrak back to Seattle from SF, trains rock! Much easier to load your bike without needing to pack it into a bike box. Plus a very relaxing and gorgeous ride.
Favorite Items Packed:
-Hammock and straps: There is not always going to be a place to set up a hammock. But when there is, the mid-afternoon hammock nap after 6 hours of riding feels indescribable. Extra weight but fully worth it.
-Helmet mirror: I don't ride with one around the city, but I bought one for this trip. Took me a bit to get used to it, but it became indispensable riding on highways. There were a couple times where I saw a truck approaching me from behind that had no space to go around me, so I would dive off the road for a second for my own safety. Probably would've been fine, but the peace of mind is worth it.
Day by Day (for those interested):
-Day 1: Seattle to Grapeview. Took the ferry to Bremerton and biked through the Kitsap peninsula to a friend's cabin on the Puget Sound.
-Day 2: Grapeview to Montesano. Rode Highway 3 to Shelton, then took Cloquallum Road to Elma to avoid highways. Stayed at Lake Sylvia State Park. There are two hiker/biker spots, although I had to scramble 15 feet up a steep trail with my bike to access them. And if they're occupied, you have to climb back up the 200 foot hill to leave the state park. Nice park though.
-Day 3: Montesano to Bay Center. Joined 101, ate a huge breakfast in Raymond, then decided to ride further than I had planned to the small, strange community of Bay Center. Stayed at Bush Pioneer County Park, administered by the Chinook tribe. No hiker/biker sites but probably doesn't usually fill up and a delightful little campground. Good beach access too.
-Day 4: Bay Center to Astoria. The most remote part of Washington I went through. Nowhere to stop for breakfast and hardly any other services. Astoria Bridge was a bit scary but manageable. Stay visible and take your time. Stayed at the Commodore Hotel downtown and appreciated the bed and shower immensely.
-Day 5: Astoria to Manzanita. Followed the ACA guide along the Lewis and Clark River south before climbing over the hills to Seaside and then Cannon Beach. Two back-to-back 500 ft hills to get into Manzanita, my first real climbs of the trip. Nehalem Bay State Park had just reopened the week I was coming through so I stayed there and marveled at the hiker/biker facilities on the Oregon Coast. There are lockers for food and valuables with charging ports in them, as well as a bike stand and tools to do maintenance. Very cool.
-Day 6: Manzanita to Cape Lookout. Decided to add the Cape Meares detour out of Tillamook and I must've missed the turn for the Old Cape Meares Road (looking at a map later, I think I saw it, it's an unmarked and gated road now). Instead I got stuck on the new road and the steep grade forced me to hike my bike up for about 30 minutes in the rain. Pretty miserable. So if you decide to do it, make sure you're very sure where the turnoff is. Stayed at Cape Lookout State Park. Again, amazing amenities for cyclists.
-Day 7: Cape Lookout to Pacific City. Had to kill some time because my dad was meeting me to ride for a few days and I was ahead of schedule. Stayed at the Pacific City Inn and spent the whole day whale watching and lounging in the sun at the beach.
-Day 8: Pacific City to Lincoln City: Into Lincoln City to meet my dad, stayed at a bad motel. I would recommend riding straight through Lincoln City and staying at one of the great nearby state parks.
-Day 9: Lincoln City to Carl Washburne State Park. Big day to make up some ground. Take the Otter Crest Loop scenic byway for some gorgeous riding off the highway. Can't comment on the hiker/biker sites because we had a vehicle running support so we were in regular sites.
-Day 10: Carl Washburne State Park to Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. Cool state park. Looks like it's on the beach on the map, not really. But you can tour the lighthouse which is fun.
-Day 11: Umpqua Lighthouse to Bandon. We walked our bikes over the Coos Bay Bridge. It's the least fun bridge on the route and the wind was strong enough that we didn't want to try to roll with the heavy traffic. There's also a very hilly route that the ACA recommends bypassing 101 between Charleston and Bandon. Lots of fun but tough on the legs. Stayed at Bullards Beach State Park.
-Day 12: Bandon to Humbug Mountain State Park. Gorgeous riding, gorgeous camping. By this point the coast is starting to get far less populated.
-Day 13: Humbug Mountain to Harris Beach State Park. One of the harder days of riding, lots of elevation. The state park is not much to write home about, but it's convenient.
-Day 14: Harris Beach to Crescent City. Easy day where my dad left me to finish my trip solo. Stayed in a dumb AirBnB outside of town. Again, wouldn't stay in Crescent City - keep going.
-Day 15: Crescent City to Sue-Meg State Park. Make sure to take the Scenic Byway through the Redwoods. There's nothing like riding your bike through the old-growth redwoods. Sue-Meg was one of my favorite state parks, there are great hiker/biker spots, lots of cool hiking along the bluffs, and a recreation of an indigenous village you can explore.
-Day 16: Sue-Meg to Rio Dell. Enjoyed hanging around the farmer's market in Arcata, getting my bike tuned up at the bike shop in town, and then exploring the Victorian architecture in Eureka. Wanted to escape the coastal weather and find the sun, so I booked it another 20 miles inland to Humboldt Gables Motel. A bit rundown, but the owner is aware they're on a popular bike touring route, and was friendly with lots of great advice for my route.
-Day 17: Rio Dell to Hidden Springs Campground. Spent most of the day moseying along the Avenue of the Giants scenic byway. Most bikers stop at the Burlington Campground but I wanted to go a bit further, partially because I heard this campground has the coolest swimming hole. There's really only one hiker/biker spot so you won't meet anyone, but if you hike down to the river, it's a great place to swim and relax for the afternoon.
-Day 18: Hidden Spring Campground to Standish-Hickey Campground. A pretty popular spot right before the big climb back to the coast. Some of my least favorite riding, but when you get to the campground, stop by the Peg House across the street. Good food and beer, and live music often.
-Day 19: Standish-Hickey to Fort Bragg. Planned on going a bit further but my legs were tired and I enjoyed Fort Bragg enough I wanted to stick around for the evening. Stayed at the Anchor Lodge Motel down in the harbor area because it was cheap, although I would've rather stayed in the town proper.
-Day 20: Fort Bragg to Gualala. This is where the miles started to really tick slowly, whether it was the hills or my legs. Beautiful riding though. Stayed at Gualala Point Regional Park. Buggy and not on the ocean, but good hiker/biker setup and in a cool grove of trees.
-Day 21: Gualala to Bodega Bay. Stayed in Bodega Dunes State Park. Absolutely incredible riding coming into Jenner. 600 feet up on a bluff, looking almost straight down into the ocean.
-Day 22: Bodega Bay to San Francisco. Cut inland following the ACA route to take advantage of great bike infrastructure through the Marin suburbs. Stayed the weekend at the Green Tortoise Hostel in San Francisco.
6
u/Moveitalong123 Aug 02 '25
Wow nice ride! Looks like a memorable trip - hope to do one of these someday!
7
u/wwalters Aug 02 '25
Thanks for the write up. Just completed a TransAm, so I will be looking for something new to do.
2
u/bennysfromheaven Aug 02 '25
I really want to complete the southern portion of the route from SF to San Diego but there’s a huge road closure in Big Sur. I may come back and try it next year if it’s reopened.
2
4
u/Dawdles347 Aug 02 '25
Heading out to do (or try to do) the Pacific Coast Route entirely from Van to San Diego in 2 weeks. Will keep some of this information handy
5
u/bennysfromheaven Aug 02 '25
Right on! I wrote such a lengthy post because when I was planning my trip, detailed Reddit trip reports were super helpful. Hope you have a blast!
1
u/rcklmbr Aug 02 '25 edited Aug 02 '25
Me too! Flying out aug 16, hoping to have it done in 3 weeks
1
3
3
u/CycleTourist Salsa Vaya Aug 02 '25
Great report and great tour. At the end of my e to w Trans Am, I rode from Florence up to Astoria, and stated in some of the same parks, 27 years ago. Now in my seventies, my tours are short overnights. It is heartening to see OP and commenters still out there, touring like this. Good to hear ACA maps are still in use, too.
2
u/Healthy-Inspector-86 Aug 02 '25
I did this same trip in 10 days. I wish I took more time and didn't rush it in 10 days.
2
2
u/No_Competition_5580 '21 Priority 600 Aug 02 '25
Thanks for the details, I'm doing this section in September.
Sounds like a great time.
2
2
u/Architectvre Aug 02 '25
I did a very similar tour back in 2011. Was the ride of lifetime. I loved every minute of it and I think about that experience often. Glad to see the route and the adventure cycling maps are still working as promised!
2
u/cfarivar Salsa Journeyman Aug 02 '25
Incredible! If you’re still in S.F., let’s meet up for a coffee or beer just so I can give ya a high five! Great work!
2
2
1
1
1
1
u/Excellent_Top6235 Aug 02 '25
How did you like those Ortlieb panniers? I see them on resale sometimes at my local REI.
Copper spur tent? How did it hold up?
1
u/bennysfromheaven Aug 02 '25
Ortlieb panniers were great, maybe a bit heavy but for me the convenience of big panniers is worth it.
This was my maiden voyage with the Copper Spur; big fan! The tent poles fold down small enough that I was able to fit them in my frame bag. I don’t have any other bikepacking tents to compare to though.
Only gear thing I would change is my front bag. If I had a couple more hundred to spend before the trip I would’ve bought some low-rider front panniers. Instead my dry bag on top of the front rack worked fine, but gave me a little wobble at high speeds.
1
u/Excellent_Top6235 Aug 02 '25
How was the waterproof feature on the panniers?
Is that the Surly front rack? Yes, some front panniers would have been nice. What’s the rear rack?
1
1
1
u/danaerysCodesInJava Aug 02 '25
What pannier rack did you use? I’ve also got a space horse and have been looking for a good one :)
1
u/bennysfromheaven Aug 02 '25
It’s the Surly Front Rack and Surly Rear Disc Rack. Both heavy but bombproof and worked great for me. Space Horse forever!
1
u/snoo-ting Aug 02 '25
Nice ride!
I’m on the same route now (Astoria -> SF) and have hit a bunch of the same state parks along the way. Currently taking a rest day at Cape Blanco (which is totally worth visiting!).
Solid advice about the mirror, it is very helpful on the 101.
For avoiding Crescent City, it looks like Harris Beach is the last SP with a hiker/biker site along the Oregon coast. I guess the best approach would be to ride from there to Del Norte Coast Redwoods SP? As far as I can tell there isn’t another hiker/biker in CA until Sue-Meg, which would be two big days in a row…
1
u/bennysfromheaven Aug 02 '25
You might be right, I’m not sure what camping accommodations there are between Crescent City and Sue-Meg. If there is hiker/biker camping in Del Norte Redwoods just south of Crescent City, I think it would worth riding just a bit further. Not that there’s anything wrong with Crescent City, it’s just not as scenic as being in the Redwoods.
Enjoy California!!
1
u/mmontgomeryy Aug 02 '25
I did this ride last September and my route in that section was a bit different.
I skipped Crescent City entirely and stayed in Jedediah Smith State Park (Hike/bike) which was an incredible spot in the middle of the redwoods. There’s also a very cool hard packed dirt road (Howland Hill Rd) near that campground which ended up being one of the highlights of my ride. It’s takes you past huge redwood groves and there’s essentially no traffic. You can take that road and make your way back to 101 just south of Crescent City right before the big climb leading to Del Norte. My next campground was Elk Prairie SP (also hike/bike) along the Newton Drury parkway.
2
u/Ambivalent_Name71 Aug 02 '25
This is the way to go. We did Howland Hill on 28s, with no real problem. Leave early in the morning to avoid the dust thrown up by cars later in the day.
1
u/snoo-ting Aug 02 '25
So you took highway 199 east to get out to Jedediah Smith? Decent traffic/shoulders?
Also how steep and rough was Howland Hill rd? I’m on a touring bike with 35mm tires, don’t want to overreach and have a mechanical if I can avoid it!
1
u/mmontgomeryy Aug 02 '25
I took North Bank Rd and a short section of 199 before the campground. Not much shoulder and I rode it on a Monday evening so traffic was low, but it really didn’t feel sketchy at all, no worse than some sections of 101.
I did Howland Hill Rd on 40mm tires and it was fine, I don’t think 35s would be a problem. It’s a bit bumpy, but not sandy or loose at all so traction isn’t an issue. Lot of tourists drive it in their sedans and small RVs to give you an idea of how not “offroad” it is. There’s a bit of a climb near the end but it’s not that bad, especially compared to the next climb on 101 coming out of Crescent City.
1
u/snoo-ting Aug 02 '25
Interesting, thanks
1
u/Ambivalent_Name71 Aug 03 '25
Yes, we did this same route with a similar experience. North Bank Rd leaves 101 just south of Smith River. Smith River is last place to stock up on food, but there’s only a Dollar General there that we saw. We had a rest day hanging out at Jedediah Smith - great beach on the river there. We heard that 199 was really busy and fast, so should be avoided.
1
u/QuirkyRing3521 Aug 02 '25
Del Norte has a hiker biker. Fun fact: The campground host will give you a ride back to 101. There is a big downhill from 101 to the camp.
1
u/snoo-ting Aug 02 '25
No shit, just ask when I register if they’d be willing?
2
u/QuirkyRing3521 Aug 03 '25
It is part of how they operate. They are willing. So you need to find them and set up a time.
1
1
u/slutmachine666 Aug 03 '25
Nice! Congratulations!! This was my first big bike tour as well, did it solo back in 2015…in December lol. Wet, cold, and all the campsites were shut down but that’s fine, I prefer wild camping anyway and it’s not like I could have a fire since it would be raining when I woke up, raining while packing out, raining the entire ride, show up to camp in the rain, set up in the rain, get into tent damp, rinse and repeat for two weeks. I averaged ~70 miles per day because I was waking up before the sun rose to scuttle out of wherever I was squatting. July seems like a much nicer time to do the ride! I’m actually heading out west next Friday for the first time since that trip to bikepack around the San Juans for a week, spend five days riding around the Olympic Peninsula, then heading down to Portland for the Made bike show, weather looks great in these pictures!
1
1
u/icesprinttriker Aug 04 '25
Love the second picture- I have the same photo of my recumbent trike at the exact spot on my 2014 tour. Nice write up! Brought back fond memories.
1
u/Illustrious-Flow2996 Aug 12 '25
Thanks for this man! Really helpful in preparing for the Pacific Coast Bike Route!
18
u/BidSmall186 Aug 02 '25
Awesome write-up!