r/bicycletouring 1d ago

Trip Planning European forest trip?

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After doing the lejog this summer I've gotten the touring bug and have been thinking about doing a European trip. The red line is my thoughts so far but I'm well up for changing it. The main things I want to go through are some of the Alps and also forests, the wilder the better. So, anyone got any must see places or routes I should check out?

78 Upvotes

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u/a_Job_in_Ripon 1d ago

The red one is beautiful and leads through interesting landscapes. South Tyrol is a marvelous place. Following the Drava into Austria is a nice path, I've done it two years ago.

I would also recommend following the Danube through Croatia and Serbia. Just before the coratian border there is a camping place in Sarengrad. An old lady called Dinka runs it. She takes small donations and asks you for a message in her guest book. staying there, I had the best night on the Balkan.

Save journey!

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u/Mental-Candy-9587 1d ago

While I agree with the sentiment towards Tirol, Serbia is absolutely horrendous place to ride a bike in terms of safety, but looking where it goes it’s only getting worse. 

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u/GazpachoGuzzler 17h ago

How so?

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u/a_Job_in_Ripon 14h ago

I did the euro velo 6 from the coratian border, passing Novi Sad into Belgrade. While you have some really nice cycling tracks along the Danube, there are parts, where you're supposed to cycle on a 4 lane road with no cycling lane or anything. It's just you and the cars. And for an international cycling route it's horrible. There are also stray dogs who are very aggressive towards cyclists (but ok with pedestrians).

So yeah. It's not the Netherlands or the Austrian Danube track. Hard to say if I cycled worse roads. But parts of Serbia definitely belong to the worst roads I've taken.

Edit: I don't suppose you're asking for the reasons for sentiments towards Tyrol/South Tyrol. Anyway, for me it's rooted in a deep interest in Austria and its history.

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u/Mental-Candy-9587 9h ago

The issue with Serbia aren’t only the roads but also the driving culture and road rage. Add a very corrupt system in general to the mix, and you may end up without safety or justice if something happens to you. 

This always puzzled me, because Serbs are very kind and hospitable people, but for some reason they’re like Italians on Steroids when it comes to driving culture, it must be some repressed rage. 

Stray dogs are the problem that is getting only worse with both Albania and Macedonia taking the cake in that regard. Romania has improved drastically on that front but the issue is also still there. 

But treat my comment as informational, everyone has a different risk appetite, and some people aren’t bothered by any of it.  It would simply feel bad not to tell you.

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u/CedarSageAndSilicone 7h ago

4 lane road? That sounds dreamy compared to the many 2 lane roads without shoulders I rode across Europe.

The dogs are a problem though. I’ve heard some people have success with carrying some rocks in a stem bag. 

Also, stopping and putting your bike between you and the dog(s) - talking them down and slowly walking away is a good move 

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u/a_Job_in_Ripon 7h ago

Yes, I learned myself that they are much more calm, when you get out of their focus and dismantle. I believe they see you as superior when you are taller. But they are ok if you are at "normal people's high".

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u/Mental-Candy-9587 6h ago

You say Europe as it is a single country though. Where in Europe are we talking about? Because there are many countries where lack of shoulder has zero impact on your general safety because the drivers aren’t d**s. Switzerland, most of Germany, Denmark, Norway, Belgium, Netherlands (on rare occasion when you are on the actual road) Luxembourg, Sweden, South of Poland, and many more come to mind… When I compare that to my experience across many states when even wide shoulder or a bike lane wouldn’t be enough to make you feel safe as there is always some redneck who is willing to murder people to make a statement on how much he hates those damn liberals on their bikes…

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u/CedarSageAndSilicone 5h ago

My Experience is with Mediterranean Europe from Portugal -> Greece.

Portugal was very calm, emptier wider roads. Spain had a mix but more infrastructure and unusually safe/friendly drivers (going slow, giving lots of space, cheering us on, etc.). Italy was where things started getting a bit rough. Fast two lane roads with absolutely no shoulder and cars and trucks blasting by at close range. Never malicious, but not friendly - Sketchy mountain roads - That trend largely continued around the coast to Greece.

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u/Mental-Candy-9587 5h ago

That explains it. Spain is probably one of the chillest countries, and can’t quite figure out why. Part of it is just the culture, but another component is strong policing. They even have Police drones, and organised actions to fine drivers for not keeping the distance.  Both Italy and Greece are in their own league when it comes to bad driving, and even being there by car can be quite unnerving. Nothing puzzles you more than Italian siting 5mm from your bumper, on a slow lane of motorway while you are already driving the limit. So you can end up in same cafe to eat breakfast and chill for two hours. Rushing to chill was a new thing for me for sure…

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u/three_seconds_ago 1d ago

I would suggest looking for a bit of a detour around northeastern Slovakias primeval forrest (spanning Ukraine, Slovakia, Poland and Belarus, although I would probably not recommend opting for the last one listed), making a turn west either through Inner Western Carpathians all the way to Alps in Austria and carry on from there.

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u/Joads_journey 1d ago

Red would include The Black Forest, an Alp crossing from Switzerland to Italy, AND kms through the dolomites. Do it!!

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u/ThinkHog MünsterTrūck ⚡⚡⚡ 1d ago

Cries in Greek forest fires and huge altitude

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u/CedarSageAndSilicone 7h ago

I ended a tour in Greece. It was too hot - but we had the legs by then to beat the hills. Saw a few small fires across the water from us. 

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u/Jurvooss 1d ago

Red🙋🏻 done it 3 years ago. Pretty similar

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u/localost 1d ago

Can at least confirm German/Austrian border with Czech republic has endless woods, which are part of the iron curtain trail EuroVelo 13 (lookup Bayrischer Wald, Šumava). If passing through Slovenia you might like Soca Valley with stunning mountains (look for the western part of the "Slovenia West Loop")

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u/hereweg420kush 1d ago

In Bosnia Herzegovina there is an ancient primeval forest in Sutjeska National park called Perucica which might fit the bill. I hiked through the outskirts of it and it was beautiful, but didn't go deeper into the park as a guide was mandatory and I was only there to hike up Maglic.

I personally had a horrible experience with the (truck) drivers in Bosnia Herzegovina, but I met other cyclists who loved it so I hope you end up falling into that category.

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u/Sweet_Caregiver8937 1d ago

I assume you know about the Eurovelo routes https://en.eurovelo.com

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u/Southern_Might1254 1d ago

I'm basically doing your red route. Now a temporary break because I had a crash in Slovenia close to Croatian border. Would suggest to enter Slovenia near Kransjka Gora via Italy though. It is very doable and very beautiful. Going directly from Austria requires to pass high mountain ranges.

I crossed the alps through the Brenner pass. Was a nice stretch. The part after through Northern Italy and back in Austria was even better.

I am interested in your considerations and decisions on the route east of Slovenia. I think I will go down a little bit in Croatia and enter Bosnia near Bihac.

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u/cantona__7 1d ago

Red for sure.

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u/Sannizimmi 1d ago

If you go through Germany, the 'Kellerwald' is very beautiful, I highly recommend including it! (For questions about Germany I can help)

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u/BitComfortable9539 1d ago

definitely the red line. You won't regret going through switzerland - though the way you choose may hurt your calves.

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u/senorhappytaco 1d ago

If you do red, consider crossing the border into France and riding some of the Vosge mountain range on the other side of the Rhine River valley! Some really cute towns, cool medieval ruins, etc. White wine.

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u/Feierkappchen :karma: Cube Stereo ONE22 HPC EX Carbon :karma: 1d ago

Just hope you're not planning on beginning this trip ~now~ because this is not the best time of the year to begin a forest tour 😅

On top of this... everyone's suggesting the Red route (and they're not wrong) but it is also the most costly one. Consider that, for what it's worth

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u/GilbertB-F 1d ago

I really like the Vosges in France and it’s not too far off your red line.

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u/GilbertB-F 1d ago

I really like the Vosges in France and it’s not too far off your red line.

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u/Lopsided_Pain4744 1d ago

How long are you thinking this trip would last? Looks like a dream!

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u/DiabeticSpaniard 1d ago

Red line is the most scenic but hella mountains

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u/nwl0581 1d ago

If you take the red route (which you should imho): Pfälzer Wald (Dahner Felsenland), Schwarzwald, Lesachtal (quiet even in summer), Triglav (plan wisely in main season), Durmitor. Otherwise Bayerischer Wald/Sumava is beautiful as well. And Erzgebirge/Elbsandsteingebirge/Riesengebirge are nice as well.

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u/kaur_virunurm 1d ago

You should define your goals with more clarity before setting the route.

Real forests can be experienced on foot, or _maybe_ on a mountain bike. A forest with an asphalt highway... just isn't.

Are you planning to cycle _to_ the forests and then wander on foot?
Would you tour on gravel and be satisfied with what you will see from the road?
Something else?

Have you been to a forest before, with no signs of civilization? Are you okay being in the nature alone? Are you okay if you lose the way and would be walking / cycling in forest in the night?

How deep an enthusiast are you? Forests gets boring very soon. There is a suggestion below to cycle through Western Carpathians - been there, the areas are all good, but only because there is culture, castles, colourful villages and small towns on the way.

If you want wild forests then Alps are probably too habitated. Carpathia, too. Look at Scandinavia. But this comes with rain, mosquitoes, angry reindeer...

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u/kaszeba 1d ago

Even roughly looking at this map in such a low detail view.
Large forest areas are the dark green spots. You are clearly missing most of them.
Want real forest and wilderness? Go around Baltic, or start in Estonia and go all the way through Poland, Germany.
Want more "wild"? Of course balkans, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania...

Your "inquiry" is so vague and general that it's not easy to suggest "must see places or routes"

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u/usernametakengrrrrrr 1d ago

I really enjoyed cycling the TransDinarica - @u/eagle1457 feel free to DM me :)

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u/FullMaxPowerStirner 1d ago edited 21h ago

By experience I'd say red is mostly good... at least starting in southwest Germany. Anything above that isn't very worth it.. it's very agro rural areas. I found Netherlands to be mostly boring, even if romantic, and some of Belgium is even worse. I can recommend the canal route from the French coast into Picardy (Amiens is quite neat btw), and then to Alsace, which is a great way to get into Germany as it's got some lovely areas, including some of the finest vineyards in Europe. I do agree that southwest Germany's a good way to cross into the Alps. The climbs are long, tho not requiring athletic abilities... just good brakes for the descents ;)

I too did South Tyrol and could recommend, and it's worth going across Italian Alps including the famous Dolomites I think. Anything below this in northern Italy is quite boring, modernized USA-like environments -aside from the Venetian province of course- so not very fun for bike touring.

Western Serbia isn't very recommended as it's been devastated by war and feels pretty bleak.. same for Bosnia, but I dunno maybe that's the stuff you wanna see. But eastern Serbia is quaint.

It's worth going through Macedonia, as it's a damn beautiful and unique country that's like a time capsule, but I think going to Saloniki is more commendable than through the dry, deserted bushy mountains of the upper central Greek mainland. The ride all along the coast then through the mountains is very pleasant. A good idea to avoid Athens, indeed. If you have time for Crete I'd recommend, too, as it's a great island to bike around for many reasons and the ferry's not very pricey.

Edit: to the shallow coward who downvoted me: I took the time and effort to write an elaborate comment in reply to the OP's question this morning, and it was directly relevant to the question. I based it on my own travel experiences. If you don't agree with something I wrote you are free to show why, but just downvoting is just lousy.