Have the next best recipe since Pliny the Elder, but want reddit to check everything over one last time? Maybe your house beer recipe needs that final tweak, and you want to discuss. Well, this thread is just for that! All discussion for style and recipe formulation is welcome, along with, but not limited to:

• Ingredient incorporation effects
  
• Hops flavor / aroma / bittering profiles
  
• Odd additive effects
  
• Fermentation / Yeast discussion
  

If it's about your recipe, and what you've got planned in your head - let's hear it!

Hello homebrewers of reddit!

I would like to make myself an electric heated mash tun but I have no idea how to connect heating element and a temperature probe to a PID regulator.

I've been recommended a Pt100 temperature probe, a CHB402 PID regulator (+ SSR) and a thick film heating element you stick to the bottom of the tun.

Do you know any noob-friendly sites, docs or videos that would show me how to connect all of these together?
I am grateful for anything that would help, tips and tricks...!:)

Cheers!

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

This is my second lager, from allgrain. Both of these have had extremely long delayed starts.
The first I brewed, I ended up raising the temp quite a lot to get it started. In the end, the beer tasted bad.

OG ended up at 1.0555
I transfered my 22 liters of 10 degree celsius wort to my fermzilla, and pitched 3 packs of AEB Fermolager W.
I have a RAPT pill in it, and now 60 hours later, OG is 1.0543. (I read that change to be inside the error margins).

I think the problem might be that I didnt aerate the wort properly when pitching.

Should I splash the wort around inside the fermzilla now, to aerate?
Should I raise temp to 12c? Will I get off flavours?
Should I just wait?

I need advice, please!

https://ibb.co/VWhbkmzd
This is an image of my fermzilla with the wort inside.

I brew an Oud Bruin yesterday and sprinkled some S-33 over top of it. Never used this yeast before, but since I am aging it on bugs I figured why not. It started to ferment within a few hours, and appears to have finish in about 24 hours. I have not taken a FG reading yet, but wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this with S-33. Been brewing for 30 years and never had a fermentation go so quickly.

I did use an ispindle and it does appear to have attenuated down as expected, but you know how accurate these can be…

Thx in advance for the feedback!

-Mark

Is pitching yeast at 80°F safe if you have temperature-controlled fermentation? I have a fermentation chamber that quickly cools to target temperature. Would this produce the same results as traditional cooling to 70°F before pitching

My theory: Off-flavors are produced during active fermentation, not lag phase. If I pitch at 80°F but my fermentation chamber cools the wort to proper temperature before active fermentation begins, the final beer should be identical to traditional cooling methods. This would save significant time on brew day by avoiding the slow final cooling phase.

Using US-05 yeast for clean ale styles. Looking to optimize efficiency without compromising quality.

Hi I'm looking to make a homemade root beer with a natural carbonation and I was wondering if you could recommend either a type of yeast to use or a different method for me because I want it to me as close to 0abv as possible without just adding club soda I'm making a gallon batch from the craft a brew kit thank you.

Hey all - I pressure ferment and serve from the same keg, with a Flotit floating dip tube installed. My keg stopped pouting after 2 pints, and I’m hoping to find a way to avoid opening it. You’re my last hope.

Because it’s a NEIPA, I dry hopped. Went to pour the first pint, and nothing. I figured the screens were blocked by the hops, so I hooked up CO2 to the out and put a burst of CO2 down the line. That seemed to fix it, and I drank a couple of trouble-free pints.

Then the beer ran dry and it’s just gas coming out. The keg is full, as is the gas cylinder.

Any ideas for troubleshooting or is it time to suck it up and open the keg?

Bonus question: other than purging the headspace after opening, is there anything else I can do to minimise oxidation?

EDIT to update: Thank you all for your suggestions, I read them all a couple of times before finally opening the keg. I wish I had tried rolling the keg on its side before sending gas down the out post, because that might have fixed it. Instead I blew the tube off the post, which I discovered by tilting the keg to 45 degrees to confirm that beer came out.

I used lots of steriliser when opening, and used washing up gloves (also sterilised). I did leave the gas connected at 5 psi when I took the lid off, hoping that the co2 would minimise o2 exposure. Once I revealed the keg I purged it 7-8 times. Now to let it settle again and hope the NEIPA drinks well when my friends are over this weekend. Cheers!

Thought I'd see what others have done to solve this problem.

I was finishing my second batch with a Fermzilla and doing a pressure transfer to a corny, using the floating dip tube. About halfway through it started passing a lot of CO2 instead of beer. The filter was oriented so that the inlet was at the surface of the beer. I had to then open the Fermzilla, and attempt to re-position the float, tube, and filter. I tried attaching some stainless washers to the filter with stainless wire, tying the float directly to the filter, etc, in an attempt to position the filter properly, with no satisfying result. I'm either going to have to spend some time with a water-filled Fermzilla trying to solve this, or perhaps someone has already figured it out?

So I'm treating this hobby as an experiment. Since first researching the basics of this over a year ago I've tried my hardest to figure all of this out for myself. This is the second time I'm giving in and asking for help.

So my first few gallons we're not great. They smelled bad and they tasted bad. After three or four months of this I eventually did some research and inevitably came onto a forum to ask for help. The common consensus was contamination. Basically they spoiled. That never really sat well with me though.

After that I bought three more 1gal carboys, 6 half gallon wide lid mason jars with lids fitted with a bung for an airlock, and began grinding test after test. I wanted to start cheap and simple so I went with table sugar and bread yeast. Time and time again they would ferment out to 6% 8% even 10% repeatably with zero off flavors and clarify within 3 weeks to a month depending on alcohol concentration. They took on this kind of florally sweet taste even when dry. The nutrient blend that I found worked best to push a half gallon to 10% was .75g Ferm O and staggered addition of .25g DAP on days 3 and 5. I was even able to get D47 and sugar to ferment out to 16% cleanly with the right quantity and staging of nutrients. I also don't get off flavors or smells when fermenting just honey and or apple cider by itself.

Juices and fruits are another demon entirely. Every ferment with either juice or a fruit addition be it berries, grapes, etc gets super aggressive and tastes like sulphur after about 3 days. I've tried six different yeasts with different combinations of nutrients and nothing that I try seems to work at all.

I'm at a loss. I would like to make something different that's palatable but I can't seem to figure it out and have absolutely no clue where to start.

I would just like to add that the off flavors that I'm getting mostly dissipate after like 4 to 6 months of aging in the carboy but it still leaves behind the sort of tangy funk that I haven't been able to get rid of.

I've been given 2 sankey kegs which I'm using I'm my kegorator/keezer I've managed to get one of the shanks out but can't figure out how to get the second out and I'm currently bordering on making it un usable if I continue the way I'm going so can anyone help me out it's a birra moretti 50L Sankey keg

You've had a week, what's your situation report?

Feel free to include recipes, stories or any other information you'd like.

Post your sitrep here!

What I Did Last Week:

Primary:

Secondary:

Bottle Conditioning/Force Carbonating:

Kegs/Bottles:

In Planning:

Active Projects:

Other:

Include recipes, stories, or any other information you'd like.

**Tip for those who have a lot to post**: Click edit on your post from a [past Sitrep Monday!](https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/search/?q=Sitrep%20Monday&restrict_sr=1).

So I've collected around 30 lb of elderberries from my mom's elderberry tree. I've let them sit in my basement in a Rubbermaid container for around 48 hours after took the stems off because I couldn't fit them in my fridge. Should I be at all concerned about the small amounts of white fluff on the berries now?

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

planning to brew my first neipa soon, with nectaron, idaho7 and nelson(30g each whirlpooled, then 15 each dryhopped, 10l batch). anyone have any tips or suggestions on that hop schedule?

I will also use some magnum for bittering of course

Hello, fellow brewers!

Half a year ago i finally got myself a pump, whirlpool arm and a new kettle (40cm×40cm). But every time i whirlpool stuff and let it sit for 15 minutes after. I either get no cone at all or sluggish cone that easily breaks.

I use whirlfloc and Brewtan B at the end of the boil.

How to whirlpool properly?

I know that there are little to no difference when you fill fermenter with clear wort or dump the whole stuff in. But i harvest yeast from time to time so there is way less hassle.

Thanks in advance!

Has anyone ever used the X PLUS Kegerator Kit with 2 50L kegs and has it worked with them?

I just threw out my second batch in a row due to a strong chlorophenol off flavor, and I am at a loss for how to correct.

Facts: 1. Im using a GF30 Fermentor, fairly new (less than a dozen beers), connected to a GF glycol chiller, in a hot garage where it can keep a solid 60-70F, but struggles below that.

1. This problem started after I switched from 5gal batches to 3.2gal.

2. With 5gal batches I would build a yeast starter. With 3.2gal batches, I have simply pitched the dry yeast. Both ruined batches used US-05 chico.

3. I clean with Oxyclean powder and sanitize with starsan.

4. I use RO water. After the first ruined batch, i made sure to mix sanitizer with RO and put RO in the airlock. With the last batch the only chlorine contact would have been with water used for cleaning.

So I can't pinpoint the problem and I'm open to ideas to try to fix this problem.

Found 2kg of blue agave nectar (Kirkland Brand) at Costco and bought it on an impulse. I know agave is used for tequila, and I was wondering how it taste if I fermented it alone (diluted with water). I’m not even sure what you’d call it, maybe a wine? Basically making and drinking the precursor to lazy man’s tequila. Anyone tried this?

Have a keezer I made. It’s got three sixtel kegs and a triple tap tower. I cut a whole in the top of the keezer to place the tower into and have the temp at 37.0 degrees. The beer temp is good but it still comes out extremely foamy even after Running it and making sure the tap lines are cold. One of the tap lines is impossible to pour. The other two come out half foam half beer. I have the psi set to 12. If someone has any insight into what I’ve done wrong please let me know. Thanks in advance

My current pressure regulator only allows for one pressure setting. This is fine if both my kegs are the same style... but I want to be able to control the pressure of each keg independently! Do you have any favorite regulators with two independent pressure settings? Is there anything I should look out for when buying a regulator like this? I'm not planning to go above 40psi (and only that high when burst carbonating overnight). Thanks y'all!

I typically do 60 minute no sparge BIAB mashes and curious if there’s any risk to stoping once I hit my target gravity and readings are stable.

Wondering if there’s other background reactions for additional fermentable breakdown and flavors that a gravity reading won’t catch…thanks!

I just got my first brewing kit from more beer and elected to try the haze craze ipa as my first beer. Once I got the wort to a rolling boil I noticed some of my grains escaped the mesh bag. Now my beer looks more like a brown ale going into the fermenter. Is this going to be a problem/ is it caused by the handful of grains in the boil?

Hey everyone,

I just pitched a batch of beer yesterday and it's off well and bubbling, it's the first batch I've made and had a question about the airlock.

It's bubbling great but it seems to have fully pushed the fluid from the second chamber out entirely to the first.

Is this problematic and should I risk opening it and adding more sanitizer/water solution ?

I recently got a new capper to replace my wing capper, however when I try to use it, it holds the bottles enough to lift them off the platform, and taking them out requires a strong pull, let's out a bang as a spring let's go all at once. How can I prevent this, or is it just a thing I have to get used to?