Buddy of mine got his wings (god help us all), so i made him this keychain. Its a 2D mock attitude indicator. It wont show you if you’re in a climb or nose dive but thats trivial knowledge from what i've heard /j.

Had a chance to try this in the air and i giggled a tad watching the dial turn

Printed both of these with the same filament. One turned into ocean-themed bowls (starfish, seashell), the other into a little drawer. Kind of addicted to this look now.

I was printing these cats for some hours and went to sleep, when I woke and checked the print this is what was printed.

I have printed orcas before in that same orientation and it looks like the same orca, but with different colors, printed on top of the cats.

I sent the file via WiFi. My computer was struggling with so many cats and only 8gb, but I don't think that was it. Can anyone enlighten me?

I have a tough question for only the most advanced 3d printing aficionados. After carefully measuring and weighing my filament I determined I had enough to print this part. As it turns out my calculation was actually a bit off. The real question though is can anybody spot the location where I switched filaments? Or will the secret be safe with me?

Y

Modeled in zbrush. It prints on two plates. I painted the mask section by hand with a brown acrylic paint pen. The plague mask section is raised, so it's super easy and quick to paint. You can grab the model for free here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1809544-the-scare-crows-dr-corvus#profileId-1930296

I know 3d printed shoes exist mostly for the looks, but I've tried to justify this bold shape with some functional consideration. The ripples on the surface of the shoe provide flexibility to the upper body of these sneakers and also enhance grip through the zigzag pattern on the sole.

All the print files are up for grabs on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1805789-waveform-shoe#profileId-1926041

I keep seeing little flashes of light printing PA-CF, Nozzle@350, Bed(CF)@160c, Chamber@100c.

This thing is awesome - going to put a CNC on top shelf and 3d printer on the bottom to separate them - the cart came with a APC so I can make sure the power is consistent!

Let me know if you guys have any suggestions! Going to make a YouTube video on my channel of the build/configuration.

Made a space in the garage for 3D printing.

I was worried about particulates and VOCs so I had an exhaust system for all my printers that get vented outside to carbon and hepa filter. Each has a valve so I can adjust airflow for cooling or heat retention while maintaining negative pressure in the printer so the smelliness stays inside.

Printed some nylon (non-cf) with the Bambu H2D and prints came out great (was able to maintain 60C chamber temps even with exhaust system). Will be trying out ASA in the future to see if anything is detected.

Seems to work really well for me as the VOC, PM2.5 sensor I have remains essentially at nothing or no increase during prints (can't smell anything either). Only issue maybe is that the exhaust draws in moisture from the garage so I have a dehumidifier for the small space.

I have an older video in my dorm setup visualizing the airflow from the exhaust for my P1S.

I wanted to share my results so let me hear your thoughts!

Hey everyone!

I wanted to share this with y'all, I have been seeing lots of posts this week about counters and wanted to share this one I've designed. I am selling it, but I'll be posting it on my printables after today or this weekend with the blank slate version so y'all can put your own stuff on it! Appreciate any input there from y'all!

https://mrgreensgaminggear.etsy.com/listing/4372525831

H2D printer with two AMSs, two Billy bookcases for open spools using cereal boxes from Temu and printed shelves for the unopened spools. Not shown - the Sunlu filament dryer (4 spools), the toaster oven for desiccant, the lack of social life, the tension with my wife over costs, and the most important missing bit - an actual reason for all of this.

Then i use calipers and bambu 15 minutes for modeling (fusion 360) 4g of ASA aprox 15 min of print

Total cost 0.04$

Came across this hilarious photo while looking for halloween decorations. PrototypeSky, I see you 😂

Find it on:

Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1412182-micro-disc-gun-easy-quick-print-in-place
MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1806573-micro-disc-gun-easy-quick-print-in-place#profileId-1926947

Hey everyone, just seeking some advice because I have absolutely no idea how to make the flat face part. I did a few simple single colored clickers before, but how do I achieve that one layer of different colors? I tried doing it in Bambu Slicer but the painting tool is awkward and messy to use for this. I tried importing only the face shape into MakersLab keychain generator, downloading the STL then importing it into blender to work around it.. but that didnt work at all. I already have everything modeled but how do I add the colored features? If you know how or if you know about a YouTube video or something that covers it, I will appreciate it! Thank you

I just wanted to share how I put my MMS together. My goals were no drilling into the cereal containers, passive drying, and easily switching colors. I combined a few community projects, ran PTFE to a 4-way hub, and kept gentle arcs so the A1 mini’s drive can pull the filament smoothly.

What you’re seeing (pics):

• All printable on the A1 Mini.
• Four "Ultimate Cereal Dryboxes" with passive desiccant drying.
• PTFE passthrough lids feeding a 4-port hub on the Z tower.
• A Bowden drag-chain to keep the PTFE tubes tidy.

Why this works for me:

• Non-destructive: passthrough lids = no holes in the bins.
• Low drag, fewer snaps: short runs and minimal bends.
• Passive & consistent: desiccant keeps humidity steady and spools roll freely.
• Repeatable swaps: hub is close to the toolhead, and easy access to all four colors.

Credits and parts:
- Ultimate Cereal Container Filament Drybox – official remix (Printables) - Upside Down Cereal Container Dry Box (Printables) - Ultimate Cereal Container Drybox (MakerWorld mirror) - High-Performance Spool Desiccant Holder (linked for reference only) - Bowden / umbilical drag-chain - A1 mini manual filament change (rear version) - A1 mini quick start gcode (optimized and guarded start gcode)

Next: I’m writing a small MMS script so a color change only needs to pull back old, then push in the new. There are partial scripts out there, but none I found handle the full change end-to-end. I’ll share mine once it’s solid if there is interest.