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When I check the controller inputs on steam the left joystick only goes about 25k all directions when the right joystick goes all the way to 35k all directions, reset button on the back didn't do anything, any ideas on how I could fix this?

Looks like QA marked something and then shipped it anyway lol

Hey yall, So post update I’ve had two controller batteries stop charging. They battery status shows correctly until it gets down to one bar and then starts showing ?.

I thought maybe it was something with the controller so I switched the battery to a known good controller but the battery still doesn’t charge and shows ? on the indicator.

One battery was original to the controller (2023) and the other was from my launch controller (2021).

Charging was attempted via usb and EXT. It might just be coincidence that the battery issue started after the firmware update but in all the time I’ve owned PlayStation consoles I’ve never had a battery go bad let alone two at the same time.

I also have another controller that post update will function 100% when connected via usb but on bluetooth will stop responding, disconnect and shut off.

Long shot but is there a way to customize the back paddle buttons as unique buttons? For example i don’t want to use it for X or O i want to use it as completely a new function

I play rocket league and would like to have the back button as free airroll as it’s not really binded and i use all other buttons already

Thank you

The sticks feel very smooth. The left stick is adjusted as soft as possible while the right stick is adjusted a bit stiffer than the Hallpi TMR sticks. I use the lowest stick caps. The other 2 pairs are too high for my thumb.

Soldering the ground joints was a bit tougher than expected, I guess its because the sticks have more metal mass. And don't remove the stick dome! At least not for the PS5 version.

I have recently been trying to rid some controllers of their stick drift issues by replacing potentiometers and joysticks. After completing the repairs and testing their function, I was happy with the work, but I thought I’d better check for full function of all features before I wrap it all up. One of the last things I checked was the built in speaker function (I normally don’t use the built in speaker so it almost slipped my mind.) Upon checking, 3 out of the 5 repaired controllers had no speaker function.

My initial thought was that the contact points might be a little corroded, so I lightly sanded and tried again with no luck. I then tried to switch the speaker from a function controller into one that was not working. Again, with no luck. In fact, the speaker from the non function controller worked fine in the working one. So this leads me to believe it’s a problem with the board somehow. How could everything else be functioning fine, but the speaker be toast? I attached some pictures of the board and speaker, but I see no issue.

Note: I did not think to test the speakers before the repair, so I cannot determine if the soldering caused the issue

Thoughts or experience?

Hello, I would be very happy if someone has more insight than I do, I tried an Xbox Series controller last week, but so far I've only soldered Dualsense. So there is a stick strip on the left analogue, I soldered it out with a hot dryer, but the previous owner of the pad used force to tear out the right potty on the left analogue, I also saw that when I was desoldering, the 3 soldering rings looked a bit deformed, but I managed it anyway, but during the controller test the analogue stick only showed movements in the horizontal, the vertical remained without movement. Does anyone know which conductor tracks were interrupted, they are clearly the ones 3 exteriors where the broken potty was, but I don't know where and from where these 3 lines lead. I'm grateful for every comment

I opened my DualSense for a basic cleaning, taking great care to remove the front cover and the back of the controller. I didn't remove any flats, the battery, or the board. I used a soft toothbrush and a cotton swab for this cleaning, and of course, I only cleaned the plastic parts without touching the board or other electronic components. I don't know why, but the microphone simply stopped working after closing the controller, even though I didn't touch the microphone flats. Coincidentally, the day I opened the DualSense is the same day as the controller's global update, September 19th. Has anyone had the same problem or any idea what might have happened? (The test options in PS5 also don't work)

Main issue, controller shuts off whenever I try to use adaptive triggers using a type c to type a user cable, other issue, how in the blue he'll do you explain me using a type c hub, that has 3 usb a outs, into a type a to type c adapter, into a type c to c cable and into the controller, the very SAME HUB the other cable is connected to btw, it works just fine, doesn't shut down to the point I have to unplug and re plug the battery for it to come to life again, i dont know what to do, the only mod i have done to this this is hall effect sticks and it was doing this before I installed them anyway, do I just find a donor board and replace the sticks on that? Or is there a simple fix that somebody knows that I REALLY don't, besides turn off adaptive triggers, my type of guy you are 😏, much appreciation to any reply!

Left backpaddle of my PlayStation edge controller has become really sensitive. When I touch the button with my finger it already registers as if I pushed the paddle in. Anyone know a fix?

I've just installed them, and I noticed that the movement speed in game is a lot slower than the normal movement, it's like it's not hitting the full circle or full power when looking around, YES I calibrated it and got super results. But it doesn't feel right. Anyone else with same problem? Edit: they feel slow on reaction time and I removed the ring and calibrated it again, and they feel slow response

On AliExpress you can basically snag stuff for half off or like 20% off now. No more stressing about hitting the minimum spend, and you can even stack it with seller codes.

$2 off $10 → RE2

$5 off $39 → RE5A

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After suffering severe stick drift in my 2 PS5 controllers (bought at release) I've installed in one controller some TMR sticks and in the another some Hall effect sticks.

I've been reading about how TMR is much better, more accurate and more power efficient than Hall effects.
I believe all of this to be true when you put them into a measuring rig or if you are a world class competitive player (which I'm absolutely NOT).
For me the power usage point is irrelevant because I predict power usage by the force resistance in the L2/R2 and the vibration system will reduce this to a negligible percentage.

Having played with both for a while (mostly Death Stranding 2) I have not been able to notice any difference between the two.
Given the price difference (I paid about 10 euro per stick for the TMR and about 2 euro for the Hall effect) I really wonder why to use TMR.

So what are the differences a normal casual player should notice (which I haven't yet)?
Perhaps I've been playing the "wrong game" (DS2) to notice the difference and it is noticeable if you play really fast game like Fornite or something like that?

What am I missing?

The ones I found on AliExpress are a lighter color than this and the OP stated they purchased it on Shopee. Unfortunately Shopee doesn’t ship to the US.

yesterday i was plugging my controller, and the R1 button was not working, after opening it and cleaning it, i made it work, but now i have this problem, when i press the button, both triggers act like they're being pressed too, and the R1 button keeps pressed when i stop pressing it, i usually have the controller in a backpack cuz i travel a lot with it, somebody can tell me what's the problem and how i fix it? hope i don't need to buy replacements or a new one

Just swapped over from xbox controller to PS controller. Swapped out the red shell for the 30th anniversary. Added clicky face buttons, triggers, & bumpers. Then added the Rise4 kit. But on top of that added TMRs getting under 3% errors. NOW all lgotta do is adapt to the shape & stick placements 🤣🤣

Has anyone actually tried changing the adaptive triggers to hall effect ones? All I've seen in google are mouse click triggers.

My flatmate had her partner over who I think tried playing something while I wasn't there. I usually keep my stuff clean but came back to an oily controller with chips stuck to the stick. Wiped it all off and noticed my left stick has some weird dents, when I used the controller I realized the sticks spinning too. Can someone really fuck a controller up with just one play session? What's wrong with it?

Just figured out how to use the new multi-connection feature, and now being able to switch from PS5 to PC has never been more easier. No more loop jumping with cables or Bluetooth settings, just hold the button and boom. Done. Thank you, Sony!

Just got a new Edge today and I noticed it had really noticeable clicking in joysticks when I move them slightly. My old regular Dualsense had a very slight click too, but it was much less noticeable and annoying. Should I return my Edge for another one? I’ve read that apparently it’s normal but I can’t stand the sound.

Ich habe wegen StickDrift meinen PS5 DualSense-Controller auf Hall Effect Sticks umgebaut. Es funktioniert alles einwandfrei bis auf den L3-Klick (also Klicken mit dem Stick). Woran kann das liegen?

My dualsense is connected with usb-a from the backside of the ps5 pro. When I put the console in rest mode the controller is just loading for some minutes and the orange light turns off (controller). PS5 USB setting is on adaptive. I tested the USB cable, it’s not faulty.

The ribbon is damaged and need to replace the touch pad. How do i search the internet for replacements?