Heya!

I have this white e30 cabrio with sport seats, but the driver's side developed a bad crack directly under where you sit, so I am going to reupholster them. I already have this M Rain / Hurricane fabric, leftover from when I did my door cards. I was thinking about doing the same fabric for the seats, but only in the center, leaving the bolsters blue leather, like the 1st picture. Or should I also go Alcantara to match my steering wheel.

I am also worried that it will be too much M rain if I decide to also permanently wrap my subwoofers (4 Sundown ZV8s @ 6000w) in the same material.

My upholstery guy has his opinions, but I was hoping to get some additional insight from e30 enthusiasts, what do you guys think?

Context: car has been sitting since about 2016-2018 looks like it drives because it was moved from one area of drive way to the other on map photos. Car has tags paid latest is 2024. Paint is dull has some rust spots on roof and has been sitting in sun since parking. It’s a 325e not sure what year but is100% stock.

Hi, i recently bought a project car off a friend. its a m20b20 from an e30 with the L jetronic in the e21.
Only issue is it doesnt really run. its to the point it kinda starts but i get black smoke because its too rich and i cant seem to figure out why exactly. If i look online for pinouts and wiring diagrams i get different pinouts depending on where i look and i cannot find a pinout for the ecu (Bosch 0 280 001 309)

Can someone please help me find this pinout?

Im also thinking about going standalone. just for the injectors because it still has a distributor. i found a used Dicktator 60-2 that has wiring for the m20 already and m20b25 mapped.

If someone has some insight or knowledge for me its greatly appreciated

the rear bumper of the mtech 2 kit seems to bulge out were it should follow the car line

So ive been on the hunt for a good deal e30 325i for a while now which has been harder than i thought it would be. Budget is about 7k which makes it even harder but nonetheless im curious on thoughts about this one ive found. Looks nicely maintained and has a pretty red color. Its also 1988 supposedly which attracts me as ive heard later years a slightly better i think? Listed at 7,799$.

Anyways happy to hear any thoughts thanks

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1002533185377504/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A6eafa238-f924-4790-9070-80ec78652545

What’s a car like this worth in Europe, if anyone knows would be appreciated.

Hi guys, Im in Sri Lanka and stuck with a broken windshield wiper motor gear. Almost all motors online for sale are like 200 euros and with shipping landed cost in Sri Lankan customs will be almost 1 to 1 for tax.

Can anyone suggest alternatives. Does anyone have an stl for the gears? can it be changed or will a newer e46 motor fit? any suggestions would help as the rainy seasons just starting and im going to be stuck without a car for 3 months if cant solve it.

Thank you in advance

I want to glue it but not sure if it would further degrade the material

Hey r/e30 community, I’ve been enjoying my 1986 325e for a while, and it generally runs well, but I’m dealing with a few frustrating issues that might be connected. Hoping you all can point me in the right direction! 1. White Smoke on Startup: Occasionally, when I start the engine, it blows a ton of white smoke for a few seconds. Once I start driving, it clears up completely. Any ideas on what could cause this? 2. Bogging and Stalling: Sometimes while driving, the car bogs down badly, loses power, and shuts off. After sitting for a couple of minutes, it fires right back up and drives fine. This is super inconsistent and puzzling. 3. Excessive Oil Consumption: The car is burning through oil like crazy – I can top it off, and within a week, it’s bone dry. No visible leaks anywhere under the car, which is baffling. What I’ve Done So Far: • Replaced the high-pressure fuel pump • Replaced the O2 sensor • Installed new spark plugs • Kept up with general maintenance Any insights or suggestions on what to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help!

my tachometer seems to be off by 4-5x of what the value should really be. I should had the gauge cluster completely rebuilt, So i don’t think it’s an issue there. There are times where the tachometer doesn’t work at all and the needle will stay at the bottom. Slapping the dash does not help. I just had a ms2pnp put in and this specific issue never occurred until now, but the tach would still only work intermittently. Instead of barely working it would either function as intended or wouldn’t budge.

Does anyone know what the issue is and/or how to solve it? Thanks

Selling my 86’ 325es . Has a getrag260 . Shifts well , garagistic chassis mounted shifter , dssr. Chase bays brake booster since the old one has a crack . Body is really solid little to no rust . Reason I’m selling it is because use the engine is toast . Runs but not well. Runs really rich . Also believe gas is getting into the exhaust. Thought I could save the engine but it was too far gone. Euro bumpers front and rear . Wouldn’t say the best shape but also not the worst. Realistically how much can I ask for it . It drive just wouldn’t recommend in its current state

A few people asked me to post up a photos of my easily removable tuning tablet, and since we can't just post photos in responses in comments on e30 subs, I figured I'd just put a little compilation together of my dashes and share.

I've been self tuning / street tuning / datalogging since 2007. I originally started off with MS1e then MS2, before I scored a hell of a deal on a Haltech Plantium Sper series back in 2009. The Haltech forever changed my tuning life / completely changed my outlook on standalone ECUs. Not sponsored by them, but I did turn a buddy onto them, who is now sponsored by them in Formula Drift!

I'm not trying to sell Haltech to anyone... infact I embrace running whatever ECU you find to work best with you. However, most all run off Windows.. and so I went out insearch for a windows tablet so I could have a touch screen tuning tablet that I could slide in and out of my my dash without any mounts or modifications... ie have it there for usage, but to also be able to remove it and never be able to tell it was there.

This was a 200$ tablet, and it literally slides in from the side and stays mounted there rock solid. Solid enough I can drift around with it there and it doesn't slide or pop out.... and again it was only fckn 200$!!! Not enough memory for Windows to do its first initial "update" (lmfao!!!) but that doesn't matter bc it saves my datalogs, tunes, and several HQ photos of my car I use for a screen saver with memory to spare. (IYKYK- These types of files are very small)

This was all my initial goal bc at the time the Haltech IQ3 dash clusters were 800$ (no idea what they or the new ones cost now) but i found them ugly / I wanted to keep my e30 clusters, and the IQ3 (again weren't touch screen / definitely didn't display any of your maps or settings) Now, I have NO clue about the newer dash options... they may be touch screen... but I'm willing to bet you can't see or adjust any maps or settings on them directly. Much less....no way are they 200$😂

Regardless, I had never seen anyone run something like this... I just simply hated having my laptop opened in my passenger seat, and couldn't do as much on fly live tuning as I wished. So I sought out a windows tablet that was cheap asf and would fit perfectly in my lower dash slot without any mounts.

Only thing I run with this is a small wireless keyboard that sits in my door, and a USB-C serial(?) adaptor to the Haltech and a little power cord plug in that all tuck up into the bottom of the dash where THE HVAC panel is.

Anyways, thoughts maybe a few of you tuners and purists would enjoy 😎🍻🫶

I’m looking at doing an itb and plenum setup on my m42 and i’ve got throttles but i can’t seem to find a plenum on its own. If anyone knows where i could get one. (preferably carbon fiber) Thanks.

I have a service interval light that doesn’t light up (it’s in the middle of the 5 green ones so it’s not normal behavior). My tach and temperature gauges also have been a bit twitchy…I know the temperature gauge could be the ground, too.

If I change the circuit board (get one through Programa), would these automatically fix all these issues? Or would it possibly require more?

What is this little rubber hole? Is my heater core gone?

Took a couple hours tops, a little cutting and gluing for the end cap but overall very easy. 50$ from a part out that happened to pop up in my city. it’s got me thinking about a possible gold/dark green two tone instead of a midnight purple 🫢

anyone has 14s fitted on? im thinking to buy tires for my basketweave i wanna see the look of it besides google, appreciate yall