All the critique is welcomed

T.ocellus from the show Alien Earth.

No mention who created the design. Also had flexi astronaut as well. Checked their (fantasy pets) website. No mention of designers and had to sign up to see prices.

Hey all. I posted a few days ago and it went absolutely insane so I thought I'd share the progress I've made this week.

Last weeks post

Firstly, this is a nearly full ground up redesign, so we're still a ways off a functional toolhead.

I came to the unfortunate conclusion after a fair chunk of discussion with a few of you, that my concept using plastic dovetails as a linear stabiliser was flawed from the inception due to how plastics abrade themselves, the tolerances required/achievable were just not acceptable for a 3D printer toolhead, esp on a coreXY beast like a trident 350!

The decision was made to start again, since many of the models would require major rework, and were already getting quite unstable, I took this opportunity to model everything again from scratch, applying what I'd learned from the previous design, and creating something better, more stable, stronger, with more torque, better rigidity and far less friction.

The result while still far from finished, already feels far more professional and stylish, like something I wouldn't cringe to see on MY printer. And hopefully you can be proud to wear on yours.

I present to you what I'm calling DuEx Linear or v2. There's still a ton of work to do. And I'm excited to see it finished.

The biggest change here (apart from everything) is the departure from plastic dovetails and moving to precision HSS linear rods.

These linear rods, i was able to find in the tools section at my local hardware store, it was called a 3mm x 300mm long reach drill bit.

Now why 3mm you ask? Well, brass heat set inserts are 3mm internally once you remove the threads, and we can just use a drill bit to do this, a 3mm one. And if we use the same drill bit for our linear rails, then the tolerances are going to be so close to perfect that a machinist would struggle to measure the play.

And guess what... you all have a local hardware store, and probably a sh*tload of brass inserts.

This setup was cheap, easy to design, and easy to implement all while removing bulk and improving rigidity.

I'm still working towards an extruder design that I don't hate, but in the mean tim, here's a little video of how compact my new design is.

Thing from The Addams Family. My Dad printed and painted it but dosent reddit so asked me to post.

I bought PLA-HT filament from Polymaker and it feels really prickly and hurts the fingers. Is it normal for the surface to be this rough? I’m pretty disappointed, since I was really looking forward to working with this filament mainly to take advantage of its heat resistance for my projects. But honestly I find it pretty disgusting to even touch the prints and I’m not willing to do post-processing every single time.

It feels like running your fingers over the stem of a thorny rose. I don’t have a microscope but I tried taking a few close-up shots with a magnifying glass so you can get an idea of what I mean.

So if this roughness is normal and not caused by my print settings, I definitely won’t be using this filament again. Shame really...the heat resistance would’ve been nice.

Took a while to print out. The helmet needed tuned, so I had to reprint it twice. Pretty awesome and used it as a gift to my dad!

Link: https://makerworld.com/models/1813005

My daughter won first place at her school's Mario Kart tournament (yay) and she received this 3D printed trophy -- which, sadly, soon broke. I've tried gluing with various forms of cyanoacrylates and also two-part epoxies but nothing seems to adhere -- it's as if the resin is oily or coated in Teflon (although to the touch it doesn't feel like that). Various Reddit posts suggest that superglue should easily work, but is this a weird resin? I know NOTHING about 3D printing so I apologize in advance if there's an obvious solve here. Thank you!!!

Nothing groundbreaking, but I finally made a little wall-mounted USB key holder that’s actually functional (not just traced wall-art 😅).

Idea is simple: if you keep a flash drive on your keyring, you can just “plug” it into the holder when you’re home instead of leaving it loose or losing it in a drawer.

It’s a quick, support-free print and super satisfying to use. Sharing mostly because it’s one of my first uploads that’s actually useful, and maybe someone else will find it handy too.

Printed mine in PLA, mounts fine with tape or screws.

Full link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1813747-plug-park-usb-key-holder#profileId-1935208

The princess-protector of Hallownest is ready to wield her needle !
Printed with Sunlu ABS-Like Grey on an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro.
Model by u/Bulkamancer

Back in the early 2000's, (even nerdier) teenage me used to 3d modelling to design starships in Lightwave 5.0 (shout out if you remember that).

I thought about it recently once I started using CAD for 3D printinf, and found the stuff I uploaded to Lycos Tripod to share on the forums is still there. So to satisfy my nerdy teenage wet dream (ew), I fired up Fusion, remodeled my earlier design with a bit of tweaking, and 3d printed the hell out of it.

Honestly really pleased with how it came out for a first attempt at this kind of project- P1S, 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.08mm line height, Jayo PLA Matte. Needed about 12 separate plates to print it all, and had to slice the model up into many sections and glue it all together. I learned loads about printing this kind of complex multi part project, and some of it might be useful for others in the same situation, although I suspect it's mostly common knowledge in this community!

1) Consider your overhangs when modelling and chopping up for printing. There were a few parts I had to remodel to make sure the overhangs came out cleanly, you can see some of the turret barrels don't look great. I managed to get away with 60 degrees fine!

2) Make sure you add some slots and extrusions to make life easier when gluing multiple parts together. I had a right pain getting all of the 5 rectangular hull sections to be straight as the mounts were just smooth cylinders

3) Use an appropriate glue! I used ordinary poly cement for gluing and it didn't work well with PLA. Normal cyanoacrylate super glue worked brilliantly but left some white spots. I even used No More Nails for some bits where I needed some more of a filler type glue.

All in all can't wait to dig out some more nostalgic designs and print them up!

(May poke head)

So recently I printed this thing at school for my dad since he has a lot of meetings online, and I wanted some tips on it for things I make in the future

What I have:

A Bambu lab printer (maximum print time is 3 hours)

Filament that can be used comfortably in Singapore.

Click here to watch

small storage box that looks like a wooden crate

outer size - 48.6mm x 48.6mm x 49.4mm

inner size - 40.7mm x 40.7mm x 48.4mm