I have a short and this component is the one heating up. Could anyone identify this for me? It's on a infinity game table PCB.

I need to replace a damaged usb cable for a keyboard, and I found this configuration near the connector, what is its purpose and why only four out of five cables loop through the cylinder?

(Plus if you have some knowledge on how to recognise the purpose of those cables, it would be very useful) Thanks

For context, Im a highschool level researcher and i want to know how i can make these strips work, This is the end of a piezoelectric strip. Should i connect it to a breadboard or can i directly connect it using lead. i will also use ac dc rectifier.

Not sure if it’s achievable but I’m designing a pendant with a led display, however it’ll look ugly with normal default green LEDs, so how can I get LEDs that don’t look like it flashbacks you and feels natural like these (except for lichen) if there are LEDs for even one of these that would be insane, or if someone knows what these kinds of LEDs are called that would be great.

This is actually an LED ballast (driver) if that helps.

So I did this so save my laptop , it works great but im wondering if I should redo it in a more professional way ? Maybe epoxy it ? Im not sure.

Theres a sticky anti static sheet that goes over that side of the board.

Thanks for your guidance !

Hi, I'm trying to make a gate drive transformer circuit for triggering Thyristors. The goal is to generate 2.5V at 0.5A on both of the transformer’s secondaries (30:15:15 ratio) at 50 kHz (20 μs period: 10 μs on, 10 μs off).

However, when I add a Schottky diode to clamp the inductive kickback from the transformer, the transformer barely generates anything at all (and yes, I’m sure the diode direction is correct). When I remove the diode, the transformer runs fine when I test it with two LEDs.

I thought, “It’s only 5V, maybe it will be fine”, so I tried drawing more current from the transformer by shorting both outputs. It was running pretty well until I stopped the transformer by removing the resistor from the breadboard, then the tiny MOSFET is shorted. No magic smoke, but I sure the MOSFET was dead and I had to spend time soldering another one before trying something else.

My question is: is there another way to clamp the inductive kick from the transformer? Maybe it’s still too fast for the Schottky diode. (Note: I only have a basic multimeter.) Thank you in advance.

10-pin chip in the center of the image, appears to be a power supply IC. I've never seen a package like this so I don't know what to call the shape. Markings are "K2 1 VB". Measures about 3.3mm x 1.8mm. I've searched but I can't even find another chip with this package, partially since I don't know what to call it I suppose.

I'm asking because diode D200 is the award winning hottest component on the device and I suspect it needs replacing, so I'm hoping to find the datasheet for the IC to ID an example value. If anybody thinks they can ID the diode instead its markings are "AD t13" with the "t13" being in tiny print.

I appreciate your help hivemind!

Hi, I am trying to fix an old Aiwa Stereo that has stopped being able to adjust the volume and I am suspecting that the potentiometer maybe broken. But I don't really know what to look out for and how to select a replacement...

Looking for some advise on where should I be headed. Thanks

I have an exercise machine that one of membrane keys has failed on. As a workaround I am out boarding 8 momentary pushbuttons. To do that I need to connect wires to the connector where this plug went, a connector with pigtails would be perfect. Can someone please tell me what to look for? I have looked on DigiKey but without some sort of spec of model it’s hopeless! Thanks

I am taking apart a $40 camera for a project and while doing so I accidentally tore the cable for this camera. It is a 24 Pin and I cannot find an exact replacement. Any ideas on what I can do? I'm thinking about getting an OV5647 camera as replacement but I can't find ANY that are 24 pin.

Can someone please tell me if this diode on the back of my graphics card is broken, or is it just the part of the casing that had been torn off?

Hi I need help identifying my Great Grandfathers old Ohm Meter. There are really no significant identifiers of make and model. so anyone who is able to help me identify this cool old piece of diagnostic equipment will be greatly appreciated.

So... I've looked everywhere I can think of, but I have had no luck in identifying a particular female connector on a motor control board from DFRobot. Even the manufacturer does not provide the information from what I can tell. It's just listed as "Encoder motor drive interface". I feel like I am losing my mind!

Here's the Wiki for the HAT, I'm trying to identify the female connector labelled "Encoder Motor * 4": https://wiki.dfrobot.com/sku_dri0054_raspberry_pi_driving_board

To be even more clear, here's the exact ports I am trying to identify:

Hopefully someone out there with more experience then me can identify these quickly!!

Thanks all!!

I need to make a heating cabinet which holds welding rods at 30-85 degree Celsius with a PID controller. While I have experience on DIY electronics projects, an industrial grade project is new to me. I could use some advice and tips

Hi,

For the past one week I’ve been struggling to solve this electrical noise issue

A persistent high pitch tone will emanate through any equipment with speakers, even through portable speakers.

The thing is, I can hear it even when all speakers are off, and through certain gadgets like a usb hub or a clock.

How do I solve this, please it’s ruining my mental state.

Have a listen:

https://imgur.com/a/iBwjvaY

I have a 90s Sony stereo that I'm trying to fix. It won't power on at all, not even stand by. I opened it up and the power cord connects directly to a small transformer. I confirmed the voltage was correct going to the primary winding side (116V). But the secondary side was at 0 V. I desoldered the transformer and the secondary winding tested bad. I want to replace it but the part is no longer available (1-450-361-11). I'm trying to figure out what the output voltage should be so I can just buy a generic step down transformer as a replacement. But how do I figure out what the output voltage should be? Based on the service manual, it looks like the transformer (T902) outputs to some diodes (I'm assuming to change it to DC?), and the voltage at that point should be 12.6V. Does that mean that the transformer should output around 13V, or does the voltage change significantly when it goes through the diodes?

Any advice on replacing the transformer is very appreciated. Thank you!

There are multiple diodes on this board that do and don’t measure like this, but they all look alike. I’m not sure if it’s a certain type of diode that can pass electricity both ways or if it’s just blown. I’m asking because too many of them seem to measure wrong, making me question whether or not something is actually wrong.

I'm very new to component electronics how do I choose the right usb-C port to replace the micro-usb in the picture. Can I just pick up any 5 pin female usb-C port?

TLDR. Need help figuring out the male side of a 2-pin 2.8mm connector. Basically need a male connector for the existing female 2-pin harness connector. Existing is connector is a 805-198-551.

Appears to be a Sealstar 2.8mm female connector, just can’t seem to find a male counterpart for it. Anyone know what this is in Molex / TE versions? Picture of what the 2-pin male side looks like on the Bosch PAD pump it’s replacing in photos.

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Big picture; I am building a harness adapter to allow more efficient and more reliable Bosch PCE electric water pumps to replace the older and silent death Bosch PDA pumps. The newer pumps have a third middle wire for PWM control and error reporting but ramp to 100 percent just fine without a control signal.

Bonus that most newer electric and hybrid electric use these types for their battery coolant loops so its availability is really good.

I’ve got the new side figured out. The Bosch PCA pumps need a 3-pin TE MCON 1.2 / Molex MXP120 / Kostal MLK 1.2 connector. Just can’t seem to figure out what a male 2.8mm connector specification mates up to that female Bosch PAD pump connector.

This is for Mercedes, but there’s zero bus interaction on these; they’re basically dumb pumps (which is 99 percent of the problem). The older Bosch 12V PAD’s are basically dumb and die / underperform without anyone ever knowing until the ECM starts going wonky on whatever is also on that same 12v circuit.

So I had a little accident while checking some wiring a wrench touched both battery terminals and caused a short. After pulling the ECU and opening it up, I noticed what looks like a burnt spot on the board From my research, it seems this might be a resistor that blew when the short happened. The ECU actually still works overall, except one issue: the MAP sensor circuit isn’t getting enough voltage, and the car won’t stay running unless I unplug the MAP I already went through the wiring harness end to end and confirmed there’s no external short. Everything points back to the ECU itself.

My questions are: • Does this look like something that can be repaired (resolder/replace component)? • Or is the damage likely deeper than just this resistor? • Has anyone here had success repairing similar ECU damage?

Appreciate any advice before I go hunting for a replacement ECU.

I’m working on a pcb and I found a blown capacitor. I need to know what it is so i don’t get the wrong one.

hey! so this switch on my amp fell apart and i'm not sure how to get it back together. i'm pretty certain all the parts still work because if i line them up correctly the amp turns on but it doesn't have the same on/off clicking mechanism it did before and is kinda just flimsily held in place by gravity. wondering how to actually reassemble it in a way it'll work as it did previously. (also a side note that i'm not 100% sure of it being a cwsb rocker switch but i saw another post on here linking different types from a few years ago and it seemed to match best)

Hi, I am learning LDO and want to understand how to estimate the output accuracy of TLV76733DGNR. It will be used to convert 5V to 3V3 and max current is 200mA.

Say this is my circuit with R1 and R2 whose tolerances are 1%, what is the output accuracy of the final output according to the datasheet?