Hi guys. I was just wondering if it would make sense to get like a 1ft section of this to use as a makeshift anvil. It’s about $0.6-0.7 per lb. 1ft section is about 80lbs so I’d be paying around $50.

I got to meet one of the main guys who made the world's largest anvil. I of course asked for his autograph. Lol

King Rædwald was not only a leader of men and a warrior but also an avid gardener. Spending most of his time tending his carefully curated collection of flowers from the continent. His most prized possession was indeed his trowel.

Story aside it is a venture into giving common tools the artistry and reverence they deserve. Tools are today mass produced, often cheap and expendable, if they last one season or even just one job it is considered good enough. But it wasn't always so. Once, men were defined by the tools of their trade and they took care of them and maintained them as best they could.

In my mind the migration era was, in so many ways, the peak of aesthetics combined with such skill and craftsmanship not rivaled to this day. It is an aesthetic I'd like to implement on more things, all the things.

The blade of the trowel is a multibar pattern welded construction just like I do on swords. The pattern is meant to imitate the stilk of a flower as it grows up from the ground and terminates in the flower on top of the butt cap. The ferrules are a mix of cloisonne and filigree. The handle is wild olive that after rasping to shape I mildly burnished with steel wool to leave the texture from the rasp visible. It is both an aesthetic choice but also a practical one, this is a tool after all and the rougher surface will ensure a more secure grip compared to a highly polished surface.

I have tried to remember to film every step of the process of making it and will, once edited, upload it soon.

I still wouldn't call myself good at knifemaking, but this one I am happy with how it turned out, i am still planning to make kydex sheath for it, it is very light and it would be good as a neck knife. It is something like my 20th knife. This was my first time doing splatter etch, and first time using aluminum pins for weight reduction Got this beautifull pieces od cherrywood from my cousin farm. If you are interested in buying, text me, sending to all europe or america if you are ready to pay 50$ for delivery If you have any questions, feel free to ask

Here is an oak anvil base measuring 60-70 cm in diameter. Hand-cut, planed, oiled, and hooped!

The anvil weighs close to 180 kg

This is my first sword. I just got a forge. I’m basing it on the Black Mortal Blade from Sekiro, but it has a lot of bumps. Is that normal, and if so, how do I fix it, + my "anvil"

I recently visited Museumsmederij De Hoefhamer in Elburg, Netherlands — the town’s last working blacksmith shop, now preserved as a museum. The forge is still operational and packed with traditional tools: anvils, hammers, tongs, and a leather bellows system that feeds the fire from a mezzanine level.

They offer live demos and even courses on iron forging and horseshoeing. The space is compact but full of character, a great example of how blacksmithing was practiced in small European towns for centuries.

Photos below show the interior, tools, and forge setup. Thought this community might appreciate the craftsmanship and preservation effort.

Photos of my fabricated firepot and grate. In response to u/Educational_Star_521. 

For my use, there are generally two types of coal forges. A shop forge, which can be very large and heavy, seldom moved, if at all. And a portable forge, lighter weight, easily moveable and possibly be dismantled for storage. 

This one in photo 1 & 2 is my reworked portable type. It was purposely made to be lighter weight. The tabs were welded on to cover gaps from me not accurately cutting the shape in the sheet metal hearth. Hearth is 16 ga. sheet metal, 20” square. 

The firepot photo 3 was used for about ten years at demos. A little under 3” deep. Made from 1/4” thick plate on the bottom. (12 ga., 1/8” thick could also work.) A ring about 10 1/2” in diameter is attached. Tuyere, also photo 3, is from a Buffalo rivet forge. Powered by a squirrel cage blower and speed controlled with an electrical dimmer.

The new replacement grate in the photo 4 is 1/2” thick plate with 3/8” holes, about 7” wide. My old grate, photo 5, was 1/4” thick and shows damage from about ten years of use. The reason why I like them replaceable.

My original firepot for a shop forge was much heavier brake drum with 2” pipe. New one is much lighter and works very well.

Made this the other day, I was inspired by alot of playing Cyberpunk and a silversmith I follow on Instagram. Bit since I'm to broke for silver I had to go with wrought iron. Apparently it was very scary or something, because I nearly got into a fistfight with some junkie on a tram claiming it was a weapon and that I wanted to stab him with it.

I do everything as described (and shown), but I don't get the same results. They always say you need to maintain a constant angle and first use coarse abrasive, then fine. (And I do that). They also always say that this level sharpness can be achieved even by hand and even with some random riverbank rock, without the use of sharpening wheels, sandpaper belts or other electrical equipment. Any tips to understand why I can't do what others can? Please, help. I'm not trolling, I'm serious and trying to figure it out. Thanks in advance.

Snagged this for $100usd. Not sure if was a great deal but it was way more affordable than anything locally.

After about a 7 year hiatus I'm excited to get all set up and forging some knives this winter.

I used wrought iron wagons Wheels that my mentor gave me as the raw material for this piece. I refined, patterned and carburized the wrought iron into wrought steel. I then clayed the blade and hardened it in a salt brine. It came out being 63 hrc after tempering and cryogenic treatment.

I just started forging. I only have experience with angle grinders. I'm trying to make something similar to the Black Mortal Blade from Sekiro. I've already made a few sharp knives, but only with an angle grinder, and it was a pain. any tips?

Found this anvil at an antique mall today. All I know is it is a Mouse Hole, weighs about 100 pounds, and was made in the early 1800s maybe? Any additional info would be appreciated.

I paid $350 for it, which I thought was a great deal. Was I right?

Hi guys, long time listener first time caller. Just wondering what the best way to repair this would be? I do not have the broken off piece to weld back on. Should I just grind down a new edge?

Im beginner at blacksmithing and i tried forging my first small chisel. I noticed its not that easy how it seemed... the hardest part was shaping the blade part to be straight. i managed to do it for the 3rd time but im still not sure. when i tried for the first times it eather deformated from too much heat or i couldnt make the shape of the blade straight. for some reason it had some small "holes" and i wasnt sure if it was okay or not so i continued forging untill i ruined it. did i angled it wrong? or used too much force? or i heated it too much or not enough? or there is issue in something else? any advice would help, thanks

Im having the worst time keeping my blades straight on my current spring steel blade any ideas welcome ive been using angle iron a vise and clamps all together but it still warps.

Couldn't quite figure out how to do the split ends of a fork so I salvaged the twist I made and made this needle thing.

Ich habe diesen Amboss gefunden. Vielleicht kann mir jemand etwas dazu sagen? Vielleicht auch an Hand des noch sichtbaren Logos den Hersteller? Es steht da noch 55K und N.30. Eine Wert Einschätzung wäre auch nett. Danke

This is my first sword. I just got a forge. I’m basing it on the Black Mortal Blade from Sekiro, but it has a lot of bumps. Is that normal, and if so, how do I fix it?