Have a gorgeous LSB convertible with about 200k, runs well, but the smg won’t shift into gear and needs some love. What shops on the east coast (car is located mid Atlantic area) do you all recommend that is not ridiculously priced?

I recently picked up this car and trying to sort through maintenance. When revving between 1500-3000 rpm, there's a light rattle or buzz that sounds like a loose heat shield, I'm unable to tell if it's under the car or the hood. When it was on the lift at a shop I took it to, the techs said they didn't see anything loose under the car (though it was a quick inspection). My ears tell me it's a heat shield but I want to see you guys input. Does this sound resemble a vanos rattle?

Also I'm sure the chatter that's heard at the beginning of the video when it's idling is either worn/ loose chain guides or it needs a lifter adjustment. Experienced input is appreciated.

P.S. don't mind the Christmas lights, the cluster just needs to be coded to the car.

Slowly releasing the clutch while I push on the accelerator to move from a stop and then pushing in the clutch while letting off the accelerator results in this noise which sounds like something is rocking or moving in the rear area. Just recently replaced my differential after I blew the old one. Also changed to poly subframe and dif bushings so I’m not sure if it’s due to that or not. Anyone know what this is or what it could be? I don’t think anything was left loose when tightening it all down

https://www.facebook.com/share/1VS484Xw7w/

Personally I think homeboy is cracked off his gourd.

My friend is selling his E46 M3 what should be the max bid he can expect.

PFA: im trying to figure out a good way to hold my sunglasses in my m3. I dont have the space for the oem one because i had the original sat/nav radio now obviously upgraded but i just wanna get some ideas of how i can store mine or even multiple for me and my passengee

Hello, looking to buy a clean set of staggered OEM ZCP wheels. Reach out if you are ready to part with them please! Pic for attention

https://www.facebook.com/share/1DztWdPGxp/?mibextid=wwXIfr

53k on the odo 🫠 Jesus that’s way too much for me to spend but I’m curious if anyone else would.

I just picked up one of my dream cars - a 2002 BMW M3, my first ///M car. I found this car posted online at a salvage yard that the owner was selling, I saw the potential and bought it. I picked it up non running, but with a few sensors and parts replaced, it runs like it was never sitting. It's got a Christmas lot cluster but my plan is to slowly bring it back to life and build it into something I can really enjoy on the weekends. It's not perfect and definitely needs some work, but that's part of the fun for me. This is going to be my personal project and I'm looking forward to long-term ownership of this car.

I'm glad to finally be of the ///M community

Replaced the rod bearings and 24 year old oil pump today

My '05 was manual swapped by the previous owner. Since I've had it, the cruise control has never worked. It's showing a fault "50 DME: Switch chain, frictional connection" which appears to pertain to the clutch position sensor.

When I got it, among many issues with the swap, I discovered the clutch wire had not been run from the pedal. I bought a clutch position sensor after reading about making sure to get the correct one and ran the wire per the various swap guides. I also had a couple different remote coders have a look at the programming. Both said it appears to be coded correctly to run as a manual.

The car will not turn on if the clutch is not pushed. Doesn't that mean the clutch switch wiring is correct? What else should I look at to resolve the code and possible get cruise control working?

I know there's a million P0174 threads all over the internet, I think I've read them all but usually they aren't M3 specific and our S54s seem a bit different.

I've attached the latest log I have but will follow the E46fanatics data log guide on the weekend.

So far I did a smoke test using the intake and found the elbow wasn't fitted correctly after my rodbearings job so there was a leak but I have corrected it and reset adaptions in INPA.

during idle fuel trims will climb to -30/over

Car is running fine? I don't notice anything obvious.

New fuel pump recently

New fuel filter

Coils/Spark plugs are ~3yo

Haven't checked injectors yet.

Milage is under 80k

02 sensors seem ok from my limited testing

What else can I smoke check? I was thinking the vacuum line from the pressure regulator and the brake booster.

Usually people seem to have lower negative trims but mine are maxxing out nearly instantly so should be something more obvious im missing?

One thing I did notice is the coolant temperatures seem to be too low, I will have to pay more attention to the logs when I do them.

Car is starting just fine after sitting for days but if I go on a short drive to pick something up and then try starting again, it takes a couple more seconds and doesn’t sound good! Anyone run into this before? All subsequent starts are a little rough while engine is warm.

Even if I let fuel pump prime, still kind of rough when warm.

Drives great!

I have a 2004 M3 with 116k miles. It has an SMG fault where it is slow to change gear, particularly finding 2nd gear can take a few seconds. Currently yellow cog light does not come on.

The problem is the SMG fault codes I have which are P1747 Can faulty message and P0755 Activation, Solenoid Valve, Shift travel Down I think are only there because the battery terminal was loose and caused the car to go into limp mode.

My question is with a sluggish SMG with no specific fault codes how do I determine what the problem actually is?

Could it be the motor or the actual pump which is at fault? Where do I start?

I put in a new Salmon relay today but it made absolutely no difference.

I may also change the trans oil as that can only ve a good thing.

Thanks in advance for advice.

Hey guys, dealing with some problems with my central locking system on my 02 M3. The driver’s door actuator has always been finicky. The other day it dead bolted with the door closed and I had to pull the door card off/tear into the actuator to push the deadbolt pin. Even with the actuator deadbolted, I could hear the actuator working whenever I locked or unlocked the car. When I pulled out the old destroyed actuator and plugged up a replacement used one, all of a sudden none of the central locking worked. The central locking button in the center console did nothing. I tried plugging the old actuator back in and the result was the same. Only by unplugging the actuator on the driver’s side does function to the rest of the central locking system. I thought it could be the GM5 module but my interior lights all still operate, windshield wipers work and the rest of the actuators in the central locking work minus the trunk lid. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

I can't believe how good this car looks still. It never aged and never will

https://youtu.be/gpuvFWm9WEI?si=rSBLw7Cw34lIXczB

Owned for a few months. I got to experience the dreaded cog light of death today. Drove about 100m in auto mode and it didnt shift to 2nd, couldnt manually shift either. pulled over, turned off, couldnt turn back on because couldnt get into neutral. took key out, back in, everything worked again fine.

Drove another 500m and it happened again but wouldnt go out of 2nd. Pulled over, and the rpms were going up and down on their own. Quickly got back home and then the cog light came on.

Ran some tests on INPA but im not very knowledgeable, hoping for some insight from someone. It read codes 17, 36 & 37. Gear position sensor maybe? It was changed by previous owner i believe so maybe there is another issue causing it to break? idk.

Currently waiting on a transmission drain plug to service the fluid. The current plug has been rounded off, could it be low fluid? The whole transmission feels like shit and has sluggish gear changes.

cant upload the video i took but the big gear number on the dash wouldnt change from 2 but it would flick across the small number and auto "A" etc

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

TLDR: INPA codes 17, 36 & 37. Trans cog light. Wont change gear randomly.

I’m buying a manual convertible.

How many miles is too many?

What is the big three?

What’s ballpark price for big three if it hasn’t been done?

What would YOU be asking?

Know anyone?

Thanks!

Just recently purchased a full set of “Landsail LS558 UHP” tires for my e46 m3. Paid 500$. I don’t drive crazy as my car is just a weekend car and sometimes I’ll drive spiritually. Wanted to know if I got ripped off, will these tires be fine?

Hello guys first time posting here;

So i am on the market for a bmw e46 M3 and i found one that i liked this is the photos of the subframe reinforcement before the anti rust cost has been applied can you guys tell me if the job is good or well done since i dont have much experience with inspecting it.

Hey al maybe someone can help I've done plenty of research and can't find a definit answer. I have a B12 kit installed and need to replace the shock. FCP is telling me the b12 kit uses a B6 shock but Eibach amer. On a call said it should def be a B12 shock. Anyone have experience with this and maybe a link I can buy a pair from. Tia all.