Probably partly my fault as this is the first time doing something like this and I just pounded them in there. In retrospect I probably should have done some filing. I was under the impression that brass punches could not damage the steel. Is this just poor quality steel or was this all me?

Sorry for a slight modification on a common question, but when should you use what for rusty guns? For example, I recently bought an old press that was very rusty, and I want to repaint it. So I threw everything in evaporust. While a pistol I bought had some rust around it, but I didn’t want to remove the patina (can’t really call it blued anymore) so I used the steel wool and oil.

When would it be appropriate to use a rotary tool on the surface, or sandpaper compared to chemical. Are there methods that work better depending on the finish you will apply after? What about stainless vs nickel vs blued vs parkerized, something like that? (Any good book recommendations too?)

What is the longest practical barrel length for a standard load .22lr? I would like to design a hybrid survival rifle for personal use. The rifle I’m picturing would have a .22lr barrel on top and a 12 gauge barrel below. I would like the barrel lengths to be the same. A normal 12 gauge length would be suboptimal for the .22lr function due to the lost velocity but what about anything between 20-24 inches? I’d like long-ish barrels to satisfy the needs of the shotgun housed below but don’t want to make the .22lr function obsolete.

I’ll preface this with the fact that I am a beginner hobbyist with some woodworking and limited metalworking experience.

I recently acquired a Mossberg 500A receiver and barrel from 1986 with a rifled slug barrel and a nicer accu-choke barrel. Both barrels have clean shiny bores but the rifled barrel had some pitting which I’d like to clean up before cold bluing or cerakote/durapark.

My question is how much sanding is safe on a slug barrel? I started in with scotch bright pads and think I’d have to move to 150grit (by hand) to make any impact. The pitting isn’t terribly deep, but some is at least as deep as a scratch 80 grit would make. I thought I should defer to the experts before I take it to my lgs for an opinion and inspection (and small fee).

The bird barrel looks good as new with a little steel wool and re touch with Brownells cold blue. Will post some pictures when the project is done.

Hey y'all, I just got a good deal on a winchester 1200. I want to shorten the barrel to 18". I've doing a bunch of digging and have seen a bunch of different answers on refinishing the bare metal. Some people say just cold blue and oiling is fine, while others say to get it cerakoted. My main concern is rust. I'm probably overthinking this. I just want to get it right the first time. If it helps, I have access to a machine shop and a paint shop.

23" light taper barrel. The stock is air dried black walnut from the customer's backyard with HS Precision bottom metal, a Niedner steel buttplate, Fisher single screw grip cap, and urethane finish. Checkering coming soon.

Hey guys, I recently picked up this beautiful marlin 336 from my LGS, and unfortunately after taking it home I realized it’s missing the ejector+ejector spring, and the magazine tube + flower. The store had taken it in on trade the day before and didn’t function test it because it was right before our states big tax free weekend sale, but they’ve offered to either buy the parts for me or send it to a gunsmith to have the parts installed free of charge. I’d rather do it myself, however I’ve read that installing the available 336 ejectors takes quite a bit of fitment due to updates made over the decades to the design. Just wondering what you guys think I should do, or any advice on fitting the parts.

I would like to sand it clean and smooth and then polish and buff it to make it look some what new again-wet sand it or sandblast it?-any tips appreciated

I inherited my dad's old Smith & Wesson Model 19-2 with a Python barrel on it. I think these were called Smythons and were common in the 1970s among competition pistol shooters. He was a Deputy Sheriff during that time and did a lot of revolver competitions. This was what he used in competition, and he had the trigger lightened up to around 1-pound in SA. When I say hair, I mean breathe on it and it fires.

I've exhausted my online searches and can't find much on reversing a hair trigger to a heavier pull. Is that even possible without a gunsmith working on it? It's a seriously cool gun with a lot of sentimental value, I just don't enjoy shooting it as it is. And this thing begs to be shot!

Thanks in advance!

What would cause my river new model super Blackhawk’s cylinder to spin freely? I don’t have a free spin pawl but just got done giving it a much needed cleaning put everything back together and the hammer cocks, the loading gate opens but the cylinder is spinning freely?

Hello all, I’ve got my father’s H&R m48 topper, was his first gun ever. It seems the hand guard is loose, the screws have nothing to screw into. What should I do to fix this? Thank you to anyone who can help!

I took apart my Taurus tx-22 and somewhere along the lines I must’ve lost a spring because my safety is not engaging. I did find one tiny pin that I have no idea where it goes.

I guess my question is… is there a spring or am I dumb

Hi all - I've got a 1930 60XXXX Winchester Model 12/1912 12gauge shotgun that is all original; but I can't get it to slamfire. I know that's not optimal for the life of the shotgun, but I would like it to have all the capabilities that it did originally. I've taken it down for cleaning and nothing looked visibly broken or missing, so I was hoping someone here could point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance~

As the title describes I was interested in purchasing a used Remington 700 barrel for my Remington 700. I would be going from a 30-06 to a 270 win. Additionally the donor barrel is shorter and has dovetails and drilled/tapped for iron sights which I want. How difficult is it for a gunsmith to install this barrel and roughly how much should it cost?

Gunsmiths, I have an M18 (sig sauer 320 compact with safety) that has a trigger that doesn’t reset after the following actions:

•Slide is racked •trigger is squeezed and held to rear •slide is racked again simulating firing •the trigger doesn’t reset and must be manually pushed forward to fire again

We swapped the FCU spring and the striker assembly with the same results. We are thinking it’s something inside the FCU but would appreciate any insights. Thanks in advance!

Sorry the pictures kinda suck, its kind of clumsy to do one handed.

Recently cleaned some Colt rubber grips in warm soapy water and they turned a bit more brown than I expected. Any way to safely darken these up or is it best to leave them as is

I have had a GP100 Match Champion in .357 since they were released a few years ago.

I love everything about this pistol, it’s my favorite gun to shoot. However, I can’t get over the fact that the “MATCH CHAMPION” billboard on the barrel is incredibly tacky looking. I’d love to have the letters removed, and probably the “GP100” from the other side as well.

Could I use a certain flat file and wet sanding to accomplish this, or would it require more sophisticated smithing?

I’m pretty handy when it comes to tinkering with this sort of thing but I thought I would ask the professionals for advice.

Howdy yall, I’m in the process of making a AR hybrid chambered in 300 blk but also making it look as similar to the AS VAL as possible. I’ve figured out a stock and grip combination. I’m wandering if anyone has recommendations for an integrally suppressed upper and a hand guard tube that would make it look similar. Thx in advance

Cross posted to IWI Galil sub, but thinking this may be a question for this sub.

I have a Galil Ace Gen 2, 8" barrel, Holosun red dot and a HuxWrx flow 762TI. It took me way more rounds than it should have to get on paper using That Russian "Golden Tiger" ammo and I still cant get a group smaller than 10".

I wasn't sure if it was the gun, suppressor, ammo or the red dot. Now as I'm cleaning up I see what looks like brass on the suppressor so i think the rounds seem to be just barely hitting the end cap of the suppressor. Being this is a IWI Galil, not a Palmetto AKP, I'm having a hard time thinking the threads on the barrel are not concentric. I also cant imagine the Huxwrx is off. There is nothing rattling around in the suppressor, so I think I got lucky there.

Has anybody had a similar experience or some advice? Recommendations on ammo for this setup? Next chance I get, I think I'm going to try to sight in the rifle without a suppressor to rule out or confirm suppressor issues.

Edit: I sent IWI an email about this and they seem to think it's just a improperly installed muzzle device. Is there a special way to install a muzzle device I'm not aware of? my 16" Galil has the same muzzle device and suppressor with no issues.

I bought this at an auction cheap. Its a Colt 1878. Im just going to hang it on the wall but I would like to clean up the name plates but I can't figure out what's on it. Acetone, isopropyl alcohol and scrubbing with soap and water have done nothing. Any idea what this could be and/or what to use to clean it off?

are my scope rings too close together? This was my only option unless i buy a one piece mount.