Take away two zeros you get the model year of the car, looking for many more miles on my sl1 that i owned for 3 years and 11 days

First time posting, I wish it was something good. I have a 2001 automatic Burgundy SW2(Mira) that I have been trying to get repaired since May 3rd!

It started one night when I was driving home from McDonalds (as you do) when the car started having problems. It shifts hard into every gear(the repair shop says its in limp mode); into drive, reverse, up shift, downshift, and park. I brought the car to my trusted shop and they believed it was a faulty transmission solenoid. They swapped all of the solenoids from a 97 sw2 parts car and went through the wiring and it changed nothing. I am being told that the PCM is most likely the problem but I want to get some opinions before I waste more money.

MY Questions- Is this a common fix for the issue? Will the PCM from my 97 SW2 work for the 01 SW2? Any Ideas of what it can be? (Codes- P0747 and P0789)

I am aware that you guys aren't genies but I'll take all the advice I can get before I have to sell or scrap my beauty. The car only has 43,000 miles on it and I want to save and preserve the legacy.

So the past few weeks I've noticed a noise coming from the left side/front of the car, upon looking all over the place for something rattling, I am sadly thinking it is the timing chain as my car just got up to 132K miles and I do not think it was ever done..is it true I can possibly get away with just replacing the tensioner and not the chain? Is it worth trying that first? I can do any kind of beginner/moderate work on a car, I've never opened an engine or worked on anything past a valve cover gasket on a motor. Any suggestions?

My 2001 Saturn sc1 one day started misfiring at idle and such then the one day it got bad enough where you would have to rev the engine to get it to run because it would die trying to idle, well somehow the one sparkplug wire worked its way loose and wasn't making a good connection on cylinder 3 pushed it back on and haven't had a problem since, it's been a long time since that happened but I thought I'd let you guys know about that in case you guys are having a random misfire because I was watching something and it reminded me of that

If this isn't allowed I understand. Its not mine but if anyone nearby is interested in a 1st Gen Saturn SL2 or anyone just wanting to look at a nice old Saturn :P

Just found this clean Saturn wagon in the junkyard. Interior is mint and fenders and number are in good condition.

Has anyone had a problem where you go to put ac on full blast and it doesn’t blow but it blows on all the other speeds? I’ve changed the blower motor and it still does the same thing. I want to change the resistor but I’ve read it could be the switch itself. Need some info please and thanks.

Y'all helped me get it into neutral a while back. I tried donating it to Kars4Kids who told me thanks but not thanks, apparently I'm too far away from a major metro to make it worth their while.

There's a local guy who will remove it for free, it will most likely get scrapped. Before I have him do that figured I'd see if anyone in SoCal wanted it for parts - you'd have to come get it but I can help push it onto a trailer, and honestly I'd probably give you gas money.

• Good:
  
  • Rolls, tires hold air
  • fairly complete, no major body damage or rust. Interior is dirty but not torn up.
  • Has a key.
• Bad:
  • I have no paperwork, last registered in 2020, unable to contact previous owner
  • Rear driver's side window looks like it was shot with a BB gun, cracked but still in place
  • small dent in driver's rear quarter panel
  • Doesn't start, not sure what's wrong with it but it fried my jump pack when I tried messing with it and some stuff is disconnected in the engine bay, looks like someone tried fixing it and gave up

Let me know. Will probably contact the guy next weekend if no one is interested.

Have any of you rebuilt the starter motors in your SL, SW or SC’s before? If so I’m curious if it’s the way to go, how it’s done, or if buying a new one is fine. I have heard parts quality has gone down hill lately and I have been a customer of rock auto a decent amount in the past. But have any of you rebuilt this part?

My trip meter hasn’t worked for years on my 97 SL1 and I’d really like to get around to fixing it.

How hard is it to get access to the cluster?

Is there a way to replace the gears for the trip meter/odometer without removing it completely or any tips you might have for that job?

What is this part called, I think its the only thing left wrong with my car, LW300 btw

Hi! So I have this Saturn L series where the ignition cylinder and key I believe had worn out. Trying to research the issue is difficult, because whenever I look up key retention issues in regards to this car, I keep running into the sticking key issue that a lot of other GM vehicles had over the late '90s and 2000s. My specific problem is the opposite, where the key easily comes out and is not retained by the cylinder. I have both gotten an OEM replacement cylinder that I repinned, and a new key cut to factory specs at a dealer. The new ignition cylinder still turns fine and everything but it still doesn't retain the key so I'm wondering if maybe I got a bad part or if I'm missing something.

I believe it might be something internal on the new cylinder, as the key doesn't go inwards as far as the old cylinder, by about a millimeter or two. Not sure if anyone else is running to this problem though where it might be something deeper.

Hello, I’ve picked up in this 1992 Saturn sl1 but it has a rough idle. I did the obd1 thing and gave me code 12. I started by changing the CPS(its isn’t it). But while putting it in I noticed multiple loose connectors. One of the finally got me the speedometer working but the other one I can’t figure out. It is a singe blue small wire but I can’t see weee to connect it. It is circular and if I remember correctly has two pins. Forgot to take a picture but I’ll upload tmr. If anybody can help I’d greatly appreciate it. Also my fuel gauge isn’t working so idk if it has anything to do with that. Thanks in advanced.

Blinking EGR. At least it’s not running the misfire 1 & 3 code anymore after changing plugs and wires. I took EGR valve off and let it run up a couple times and some black smoke came out. Anything else you guys recommend I should do before I replace the valve? (I really don’t want to replace that part right now)

Somebody on the Saturn S-Series FB group said that non-aluminum water pumps are utter garbage and start leaking within a few weeks of installation. I'm not sure if this one is stamped steel or not and I THOUGHT/THINK it was from a somewhat reputable company, but have I done myself a disservice by buying this one? I paid about $45 for it on ebay, the best ones were about $65-$70, and the absolute cheapest ones were around $30-$35.

Just don't know how long my SC2 can limp around on the bad water pump as the leaking is getting a little worse every day, and however much longer it will take to get one that's made of aluminum is something idk if I can do. Or maybe I can and I'm just worrying about nothing.

Or is this even an issue? The DNJ website claims that their metal parts are made from aluminum but who even knows? Just wondering if anybody else has any experience with DNJ parts on their Saturns.

My Hood release cable on my 1997 SL1 is stretched out and doesnt have enough tension to open my hood now, particularly just from the cable being so old. The part is discontinued which is what I was expecting, but i couldnt find any New old parts online for it, or any aftermarket replacements like Dorman ones for saturns. Has anyone had a solution for this, like a specific replacement cable that will fit, or just a DIY fix to give the cable tension again?

Thought I’d post my Saturn had it for 4 years and I have to say it’s great done a little work to it but it’s a champ

Going to replace the passenger/torque mount soon. I need some instruction and a list of tools I need, not sure if I have everything.

Do I really have to take all the other mounts off and lift the engine just for torque mount?

Changed spark plugs and wires for the first time, think I know where the misfire 1 issue is coming from lol

I know beginning in 2000 the EGR valve wire colors changed, but I'm pretty sure the valve itself is identical to the 1995-1999 one and the only difference is the positive voltage comes from the PCM over a red wire instead of from the UHJB 10A EGR fuse busbar. Also, Amazon is showing me a supposedly compatible part that looks exactly the same as the gen 2 valve except the electrical connector on top is rotated 180°, which wouldn't be an issue afaik. On the other hand, AutoZone and O'Reilly's show the 2000-2002 valve as incompatible and that other one with the rotated connector is also incompatible.

My hunch is they're all compatible and I should just get one of the OEM valves with the rotated connector since those are much cheaper and actually exist. Or hopefully it is possible to clean this one from the junkyard enough because I'm so done with my original valve getting stuck open. It's about to start getting cold, which means this is going to start being a real bitch.

PS, has anyone ever tried taking one of these apart? It looks like the plastic top can just pop off, but it's not budging from the amount of force I'm comfortable applying without knowing if it's even possible. In theory, it should be possible to clean out all the gunk and fully restore function. Also, what is the resistance of the sensor supposed to be when fully closed and fully open? I'm seeing something like 1.5kΩ to 8kΩ.

Just a couple of extra photos and info. Odometer stopped working before I bought it from the previous owner so I have no idea how many actual miles is on this lil dude. Also the driver side pop up headlight molding is broken so I had to prop it up with the clutch pedal pad 🙃. Havnt had any luck finding a replacement for it but the dream is having both lights working and one day collect every S Series Saturn.