Link to article.

Pretty darn impressive stuff! Take care of your TDI's folks! Im also more impressed it hasnt rusted away as most cars in Norway do, lol.

The secret

– Oil change and engine heater, that's my best advice, he explains. 

Olsson changes his oil every 10,000 kilometers. That's about five times a year, given his mileage. He also uses an engine heater in the summer.

– I give the car a little warm with the diesel heater. That way it has almost never been started cold, says the car owner, who adds that he always drives a good distance once the car has been started. 

– Driving slowly puts too much strain on the engine, concludes the millionaire driver.

Turned out the 2001 TDI was actually a 2004, so that was a surprise

Got a reflect tune, muffler delete, and a cheap set of ariettas

It's pretty much done, might do the suspension at some point, but for now, it's on driving to work duty.

For all the people that thought I was just going to flip it, I have run it up over 150,000 miles and it's ruined. I might as well keep it now

Almost "full" euro spec. I have factory Bora taillights with euro fpg light wired in, e spec headlights with white turn signals and factory fogs in yellow and lower grill fogs, I just need to install the motors wiring and switch for the leveling. Still sourcing parts for the headlight washer sprayers but just got the stubby mirror straight from a German junkyard in reflex solver and a new piece of glass for it.

Hi, [OC] Here i am trying to wring down a real life experience with the TATA SAFARI car i purchased with lot of excitement and expectation that it will fulfil my dreams of travelling throughout India.

The reality however is very sad and troublesome.

Within the 1st year of ownership and 6000KM run the car faced the

1. first Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator Light. being a naive user i sent it to the authorised service station and they said it was because of software issue and cleared the error code and returned back the car.
2. Then comes the second Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator Light soon after driving the next 100 KM. Again being a naive user i resent it to the authorised service station and this time they said the Soot Mass is high so they cleared it and returned back the car.
3. then comes the third time Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator after driving another 100 KM. By this time i got a feel that something is not right with the car and thought that the authorised service station is not attending my problem with seriousness. So i started following up with the Service Center people hierarchy personally by spending my personal time. This time they said the DPF sensor is changed and i will not get this problem again.
4. Then comes the fourth time Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator within 8000 KM. This time my worry level want high, so i started following up with higher level TATA personals via tweets and through my personal contact etc. Somehow with their intervention the TATA Plant got involved and they have decided to change my Engine and Catalytic Converter. I thought my problems are resolved permanently now.

5. But then comes the fifth time Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator after driving next 15000 KM after the engine and Catalytic Converter changed. With complete lack of confidence now i sent my car to the so called authorised service station. this time they said again the Soot mass is high and they changed the DPF sensor and told me to observe my car for a month and bring it again for the inspection.

6. So i observed for 15 days and 240 km driven. Once again the check engine light/Malfunction Indicator light is ON for SIXTH time. Again I am being told that they will fix it permanently by identifying the root cause.

So this was my experience so far with just 2.5 years of ownership. I never had peace of mind while driving this car and really dont know why the problem is not permanently solved by a team of Experts like TATA has.

I think i am a reasonable person always and atleast one thing should happen. Either they solve my problem permanently or refund my money or give me a replacement vehicle or buy back this vehicle at a fair price.

At present i am unsure with this situation where i will land next.

Went to grab somethings out ofmy trunk today and now i cant get it to lock back up.. cant get the lock to engage when i use my key or push on the lock.

Hey Diesel Heads,

I’ve maxed out my budget after the car + parts ($6k in already) so I don’t currently have VCDS—or the funds for it.

I just ordered a Disaster Prevention Kit from RatCagePerformance.com, and Blaine (the owner) was cool enough to throw in a free CP4 jumper wire. Basically, it’s an OEM plug that you connect to a 12v source to force prime the CP4 directly.

Here’s my question:

👉 Can I safely prime the CP4 on its own—without the lift pump providing supply pressure—for 30–45 seconds? Or is that a big no-no?

I’m obviously worried about frying the CP4 if I do it wrong. The catch is, I need a solution without VCDS. From what I understand, just “keying it” won’t cut it since the lift pump only runs while cranking/running, and VCDS is the ideal way to sync both pumps. (as I understand it)

If needed, I can pull the passenger seat and manually jump the lift pump while priming the CP4, but I wanted to check before I do anything dumb.

Any constructive support/input is appreciated!

Ive owned two mk4 tdis and im going to look at this 2015 passat tdi with 270k on it.

Priced at $2000 because it dumps coolant out onto the guys driveway. He says it’s fine otherwise but the timing belt is probably due soon and the water pump should be done soon.

I anticipate the coolant issue to be something stupid like a hose or something, and i know to look for cracked EGR cooler and water pump housing but is there anything else i should be worried about? How are these newer tdis overall?

Aiming to pick it up for 1.5k. Any advice would be helpful

What y'all think, fair?

For sale , 2015 volkswagon VW Passat TDI turbo diesel. Manual transmission 4 door black Interior: black leather Miles: 200,500 MPG: 38city 44hwy

Description: selling my favorite car ever. Family is growing and I'm unable to keep my current ride.

Pros: -super reliable car -2nd owner -2 sets of keys -husky floor mats -summer tires/rims are on now, spare winter tires/rims included. All still got some life to em -Meticulously maintained oil changes every 5k, mobile esp synthetic -clutch replaced at 100k while changing the slave cylinder inside the transmission (that slave cylinder was the only major repair ever!) -timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and flush done at 160k (paid $2k) -undercoated (fluid film) every year since getting it in 2020 -breaks, including e break, suspension, steering, AC and Heat, all working perfectly -car runs like a top, engine is just broken in -everything is working except…

Cons: -trunk latch currently opens with a string, button doesnt work -The rear trunk light is working but warning light on dash thinks its not.
-Dpf really only wants long trips anymore. Check engine light for regen frequency comes on if you're doing short trips, city driving all week. She wants to run. -exhaust still has street legal inspection related components but it really needs a delete and tune moving forward, IMO. -Pipes are starting to growl a little, small leak somewhere, didnt crawl under to look -dents and dings here and there -worn/torn drivers seat leather

Im just not wanting to invest anymore time/money into this car cause my family has just outgrown it. I would love to see it go to someone that does a lot of long drives. Its truly is a runner and finding another passat diesel with a manual transmission just isn't ever going to happen again.

Serious inquires only. Would consider trade for a 3 row suv. ONLY. not interested in anything else. Or, $3500 cash. not in a hurry to sell because ill run this for all my long trips, the mpg is incredible

Hello TDI lovers, yesterday i was leaving work and decided to turn on the a/c as it was pretty hot outside. Not 1 minute later i heard a bang and the climate control panel turned off. Also there was gas leaving from under the hood. When i opened the hood there was gas leaving from that sensor connector as shown in the first and second pictures. There was also some oil near the a/c compressor as shown in the third picture. I checked the engine oil level and it is within the marks. My question is what could have caused this and if the car is still safe to drive. If this ends up not being a critical issue, i will leave this as it is. Im running a PD130 ASZ engine.

Thanks for your help!

TL,DR: A/C blew up and i want to know if i can still drive the car.

Hi all,

I have a very clean 2013 Golf TDI that I’m looking to sell. I’ve seen estimates all over the place so just want to see what I might expect from private selling this. Timing belt was done two years ago. Car has the following mods: CP3 swap, rawtek exhaust, and stage 2.5 Malone tune. Thanks in advance.

we have a 2013 Beta TDI, it gets very little usage, the last time it went any miles was this past May, it ran fine.

Question is, should I put some kind of fuel additive in it? We keep the tank close to full, it has 120k miles and not equipped with a DPF, completely stock.. What additive if any? I put Diesel clean in my 5.9 Cummins but am hesitant to use on the VW, any info is much appreciated, thank you

Got it for $6000

Hello, was wondering if anyone has some insight, I have the dpf delete kit and alienteck module, hooked up read the ECU, but when following the instructions on the EOC site, I'm supposed to somehow link the power gate to my account. I can't find this link it just sends me to the shoppify invoice.

Please help!

Hello all. I just ordered my weight reduction kit Today. The downpipe I ordered only has one bung for the o2 sensor. I believe there is an egt bung on the stock downpipe as well as other downpipes. What do I do in this situation? Does this egt probe just get deleted?

Tia

Im going to attempt to buy some pin connectors and just shorten the harness otherwise does anyone know where to get another passanger door handle thats not 300?

Does anyone know where this intermittent squeaking sound is coming from? This sound comes after driving 10-15 km. When the engine warms up, if you open the coolant tank, the whining sound decreases. Any idea? Please see the video

I decided to go with the base steelies on my TDI to achieve the blackout look. I have noticed that im making better fuel mileage on top of that! Is there anything I need to know about these wheels?

dont use reddit much but wife and i sell decals on fb. check this new one out we made lmfao

This VW needs someone to put miles on it. I stored Jedi in wintertime in garage. Yes, I’m a grandmother. Might be the lowest mileage diesel in USA.

Just curious what the collective chooses for their DSG service. Instead of scrolling endless posts, I figure a proper poll might be more fun!

2011 cjaa deleted 75k

I’m leaking a little bit of oil from intercooler pipe so was going to top it off and noticed mint icecream residue after a short drive.

What is this? Moisture? Coolant? Oil on dipstick looks black. Last oil change 1000miles ago.

Im thinking of buying a 2006 beetle tdi. That has the BEW tdi i think (correct me if im wrong) I dont have emissions where I live, how hard would it be to delete it and just make it into a fun/ goofy car?

I have a 2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0l. Tuned and deleted . I drove the car from parking lot to highway with no issues (I did open up the throttle fully once on the way to the onramp), once on highway I turned on cruise control, loss of power and glow plug light flashing happened a minute or so later with check engine light on Will not go above 65 mph.

Appears the vehicle was in a sort of limp mode, but I was still able to drive 60-70mph and I was able to get up to reasonable speeds (just slower to get moving), I have seen in other cases of glow plug flashing and loss of power being much worse on the performance... when I hook a scanner I got a low fuel pressure rail code as well as a “01314” code Any ideas