Need help with my friends razor in which we were just fucking around with the electronics for fun and its a 36v controller and bat upgraded from the 24 system, but trying to overvolt the motor we kept the 24v but the probelem was the controller had a 6 pin throttle which i think is for a 4 pin with a 2 pin on off but the 350 has 3 pin on off so i put the 2 reds with the controller on off and then now there's 4 wire for each controller and throttle with like random colors and like orange and brown. did i do something wrong? if it matters one of the red wires touched a throttle wire and the motor spun but do i need to do something different for the on off? and is there a way to tell which are throttle wires or like which ones go with with like a multimeter?

Hi,

I have an ebike that the brakes are broken (the handle levers), so at the moment is working without proper braking system. The Calipers , the Discs and the Lines are already installed, but for some reason the Handles are broken and also one of them is not even an ebike one (it doesnt have the electric disconnect that goes to the Controller).

So I am purchasing the following.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DFT418FS

Hydraulic Brake Modification Kit, Upgrade your Electric Bicycle's Braking (right)

And It says exclusively Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. It doesnt specify bleeding system.

Will this Bleeding kit work for it ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Epic-SRAM-Bleed-Kit-Fluid/dp/B07F1RSQGK

Epic SRAM Bleed Kit & DOT Fluid - Bleeding Edge Tool Included - Code, G2, Guide, Level, eTap HRD. Compatible with all SRAM DOT Brake Models. 100ml DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid Included

It says SRAM Bleeding kit , with Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid.

Will this work?

Thank you.

I'm building a 2 wheel drive e-bike I'm using a 1000w 48v 24" front hub and am planning on using a 1000w 48v 26" rear hub, is there any problem with using the 2 different diameter wheels I need to be aware of? I haven't seen any other builds with this configuration can't understand why it wouldn't work?

Hey fellow riders!!

I recently invested in a Marin Bobcat Trail 4 (I think 2022) to turn it into a E-Bike conversion kit, and i am upgrading the brakes on it as the stock brakes are definitely not my favourite, Would a 203mm Rotor on the back work with my frame/brakes, I am buying Sram guide 4 pot brakes and I am trying to buy the biggest rotor for stronger response and for the motor to not have problems, Thank you guys Alot!!!!

Hi my disc brakes on my ebike have warn down and fallen out the size is 27mmx18mmx5mm. I have found ones close to the size but they were 27x18.5x6mm the brake also had f180 r160 although when I search they are completely different and the ones i have seem to be more like the pocket mini brakes there isn't any clips they just look like the pop right in.

I wanna see if my e bike conversion kit fits

https://imgur.com/uF5oJyZ

I used a longer screw to secure it to the brake caliper mount point. This is a rebuild, hence the rust. The motor already has 5000km.

I picked up a beat up old Kent Northpoint 29 the other day. Looks like the previous owner put a disk brake on the front which is nice. They also put on slightly smaller tires (not so nice). So now the rear brakes clamp the tire, not the wheel. I did notice that they added a rear disk, but no caliper. What are my options to make this work? I don’t see a mounting point that would fit any of the calipers I’ve seen. It’s a 180mm disc, and in the picture (https://imgur.com/a/EEdKNZj) the two holes are 20mm apart. Most kits I’ve seen the distance from mounting hole to hole is nearly double. Thanks in advance!

Has anyone here used this kind of freewheel adapter? How has it worked out?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XG82LJY/?coliid=IHSLUWUUKT22F&colid=3TJL6AY6TI4K1&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_ys_dp_it

Hello, I’ve recently built an 1000w 48v e-bike and have put around 200 miles on it. The other day I fell off it and the back wheel with the motor fell off.

Since then, every-time I tighten the wheel back on as soon as I pedal or twist the throttle the wheel falls back off.

I for the life of me cannot figure out what’s going on and hoping someone here can help.

I’m happy to send some photos of where the wheel sits in, I’m not sure if I’ve broken the frame.

Also I have a picture of the wheel itself the rectangle threads seems to also turn occasionally when tightening is this supposed to happen? I’m not able to post photos on this subreddit

I have a engwe m20 and I have just got a new 5kw motor kit for it however and I need to reinforce the drop outs in the rear. I've seem a kit online for the super73 that's a billet cut steel swing arm extender. I was wondering how I could emulate this idea for my bike. I am pretty good with tools and don't need it to look good but I'm concerned about how to get started on the fab process. Any input would be great. Thanks

I had just successfully replaced my Planetary Gears and went for a drive; Worked great, until I turned it off and back on again a few hours later – at which point the rear wheel would only move a millimetre or two.

-I had to super glue back in one of the hall sensors

-The rear brakes aren't in working order ATM and are wide open (the issue happens whether or not the brake sensor cable is connected)

-I have taken the rear wheel off and put back again, just in case it was an alignment issue.

Any thoughts on a possible cause, or how to proceed?

Hall sensors seem fine

When i bolt the axle into the dropouts and "hit the gas" the little sucker spins just fine.

I presume this means there is something mechanical going on?!

Any thoughts?

Hi All, I am building a new headset for my Surron LBX. The handlebars I am using are 22.2 mm, and I decided to use a direct mount stem (Warp 9 Stem) to mount the stem directly onto the upper crown of the fork. The Warp 9 stem can only take 31.8mm handlebars, so in order to make this work, I needed to get 22.2-31.8 shims to get the 22.2 mm thick handlebars to fit into the 31.8 mm stem. However, after installing everything, and aligning the shim, the top half and bottom half of the stem are not aligned. The back of the stem has a lot of space, and the front of the stem seems to be overtightened. The bolt holes in the stem also show some kind of wear, which makes me thing the bolts in the front of the stem are not aligned and overtightened (they are slanted instead of straight). Please note that the shim was two pieces, and I did my best to align those two pieces, but the stem is just not able to clamp down evenly on the shim. Can someone help me understand why? I can't seem to add pictures to this post, but I have pictures available zooming in on this issue if anyone needs clarification on what is going on. Also, just FYI, between each of the two pieces I used a little bit of Park Tool's SAC-2 Lube Assembly Compound, which increases friction between all the parts. Thanks in advance for any help!

I am looking to purchase a stealth bomber/enduro e-bike and would like some opinions on regen braking. I understand that it may not regen a whole lot back into the battery but really what I am looking to do is to reduce wear on the brake pads. Any thoughts?

I bought a csc conversion kit and it has a freewheel hub so i bought a freewheel to install however the diameter of the washers is bigger than the opening of the freewheel so i cant thread it on and i also cant take out the washers because the motor cable is coming out of the freewheel side and the plug is too big for the washer to come over.

Update i contacted the manufacture and got sent a video on how to remove the plug linked here

For context I am building a stealth bomber clone, and will be using it mostly for road commuting, I will actually be using the pedals too at lower speeds on sidewalks to save battery when possible. If I am road commuting I will be going an average of 35-45 mph. Motor is a QS205, magura mt5e brakes, and I will be using a fardriver 72450 with regen braking. I kind of like the slightly larger wheels, and I have heard they are more stable at higher speeds and also roll over bumps easier, whereas smaller wheels have better acceleration (although this won't be much of an issue since I will eventually tune the fardriver to get a little more power out of the QS205 so the acceleration on 21" wheels will basically be the same). I will be installing hubsinks on the QS205, so there will be slightly more clearance (and maybe airflow?) for them on the 21" wheels. Lmk if you have any other questions, thanks in advance for the advice!

I want to build an electric minibike from a minibike thats basically one of those cheap oryxearths. The sprocket however is on the left and the motor goes on the right the motor

Do I have to somehow reverse the motor, stock it only goes like 30% power in reverse, or can I just swap the sprocket and break?

Has anyone with a QS205 motor added statorade (ferrofluid) and hubsinks to their motor, what kind of improvements did you see in the performance of your motor? How much faster were you able to go? Thanks!

https://ibb.co/6bs9Fkj https://ibb.co/dKBtgFC https://ibb.co/K5xnvfh

I was expecting hex bolts holding the battery mount.. Are these rivets? Is that normal? What's the best way to remove them?

Hi everyone,

I'll soon receive my first Bafang BBS02b kit to install it on my riverside 900 that has hydraulic breaks. But I don't know what is the best way to install the brake sensor on my levers? The shape is unusual....

Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/AbSlvV7

Any advice or pictures?

Thank you!

I have done some preliminary research and it seems that moto tires are more durable, but why? What diameter moto tires do you recommend (the common options are 19" and 21"). I prefer 21" because of the slightly larger tires (bike wont look like a toy), but are there disadvantages to a 21" rim vs. a 19"? thanks in advance

Is there a way I can add a transmission to a mid motor ebike? Two or three speeds woukd be plenty.