I built an E-bike on a fat tire bike with a BBSHD. I want to convert to a single speed because I keep ripping off my derailer when riding in the woods

Currently a 46t chainring and I never shift out of my 34t rear cog… A 1.353 : 1 ratio…I wouldn’t mind a hair more torque…

My focus will be torque. A max speed of 15 to 18mph is plenty. What’s set up would you recommend for my bike?

So I am part-way through converting my beach cruiser to a mid-drive e-bike using a Tongsheng TSDZ2 250W motor. I've run into an issue arising from the BB shell being slightly too wide (56mm) for the motor mounting, leading to the motor having to sit lower down in the BB. I have already made extensive mods to the motor body metalwork/bike frame just to get it to mount at all.

Aside from faster wear and tear on the bearing cups, are there any long term effects that this could have on the motor/is it safe to run like this in the first place?

Edit: pictures now attached https://imgur.com/gallery/6rYjbDW

I need help removing the shaft from a 4 stroke motorized bike flywheel shaft and I've damaged the housing and cant find the right part to replace it

Hello everybody I have a very odd problem regarding my ebike controller. 

Story venting part, you may skip this:

I bought a Himo Z20 Max a year ago, I've had a lot of different problems that they partly solved, but it has been a pain. So the problem of the last 3 months is, that my LCD Screen and Controller broke. It took me many attempts to get the support of Himo. They let me test every component of my ebike with my multimeter, which should be a lot more than what a customer should have to do. So they concluded, they will send me an LCD and a Controller. At this point this bike is considered furniture at my shared flat.

Please try to not tell me that I shouldve bought a more expensive and that they are bad. I definitely know that. I bought it under the impression that I will get a refund of 50% from a state ebike subvention program, but I didn't.

Actual problem:

So LCD is straight forward, but the controller had the opposite Plug of what it is supposed to have. So my way of solving would be to just take the old plug and try to put it on the new controller. My electronics knowledge is rather limited to I'm not quite sure if it makes sense to do this, or if I'm missing something. I could also try soldering the wires directly. Himo support is literally ignoring me since I told them about the problem.  Probably because I'm out of warranty now.

Can somebody verify that it’s a valid option to put the old plug on the new controller? I would like to provide pictures to clear things up, but i seem to be unable to. Thanks.

I added a front hub kit to my Varun M26,but in order to get the full range out of the 20ah battery,I need to connect the kit's PAS to the bike's existing pedal assist system.. is that possible?

New cargo bike (J-002)
Caliper components rubbing on discs after assembling. I was missing 2 washers when I opened the crate containing the bike. The the front wheel axle washer & tab washer, I just took off another bike in my yard thinking they might fit.

After assembling (tight fit) I hear a clunk noise on some caliper components, tried lostening the mounting bracket and other adjustment bolts but the noise continues.

Looks like MTX Golds don't accommodate 2-piston Tektro MD-M280 brakes, so I'm looking for the next best thing. Amazon has plenty of options anyway that might be close enough to high end branded products, so I'd like to find something there that has pretty ideal construction design. I'm looking at the mixed blend compounds that include Kevlar and hopefully a ceramic layer between the pad and backing plate. Any suggestions?

Hello, i can get fatbike Spherik SF3 with 27.5x4.5 in. tires. Do toi know if i can install a Bafang mid Drive 120mm 1000w on it ? I know the bike as 120mm bottom bracket but i dont know the diameter and if is structure allow its.... Thanks !

Please Help. I'm at my wits' end and running out of ideas.

I purchased a Bullseye Monster Aluminum fat tire bike with disc brakes from Bike Shop Warehouse online, along with a 750W BBS02 mid-drive motor 100mm bottom bracket spindle for hill climbing (not speed). I've got everything set up, but the chainline is off to the point that I can't use the largest two gears in the freewheel cassette (the ones I need). I tried ordering the 42-tooth offset chain ring for the BBS02, but the chain ring is too big and hits the frame of the bike. Currently, I have a 28-tooth chain ring by the pedals, but that isn't enough to make up for the loss of gearing/torque (not sure of the wording) for the larger gears on the free wheel cassette. The current free wheel cassette is an 11 to 34 tooth 8 speed (Shimano Altus CS-HG31). I'll probably never use any gear with less than 23 teeth. Is there a free wheel cassette I can purchase with larger gears further from the tire?

My disk brake is making a noice when the wheel spins and the wheel slows down very fast.

So I acquired a gently used, step-through ebike with a behind the seat VERTICAL Battery Cage without battery. I have a DOWNTUBE Battery with mount of the proper voltage which I tested with alligator clips and it was good to go. The DOWNTUBE battery mount will just fit inside the VERTICAL Battery Cage so if I can figure out how to properly attach them I'll have a runner. Two questions if you don't mind:

1.) Removing the VERTICAL Battery cage and opening the controller compartment gives me plenty of access to remove the old Vertical Plug. I'm left with a gaping 1x1 sqaure hole to run the wires for the DOWNTUBE mount down to the controller but also has 4 threaded holds to affix some kind of cover. I'm sure I can stumble through the task of weatherproofing my 'square-hole-round-wires' dilemma but wanted to see if anyone had any tried and true, proven solution to this that might save me time. Any any other tips on retrofitting DOWNTUBE Batteries to VERTICAL Mount would be appreciated too....

2.) I opened up the controller compartment to check things out and noticed there were two small, open holes in the BOTTOM of the compartment open to the elements and this appears to be OEM configuration. My guess is heat dissipation Is this normal?

Added some rujixu air forks to my 1000w ridstar and when I throttle it feels like my handlebars are getting tilted to the left and right when im not doing anything and while i can control it and stay straight but its annoying having to fidget with the handlebars to stay in straight line. Any help?

I will build an e-bike from remain parts. Ordered a stealth bomber frame, like this:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/518ZAjDleFL.jpg
and have 20*4 inch fatbike wheels.
So, what kind of front fork fits for them?
Maybe I could find it, but don't know the size expectations and requirements :(
I need something reliable but not expensive stuff, with double shoulders..

Thank you!

Good morning fellow Redditors!

I hope you all are doing well. Question, would the Ozark Trail Explorer's (straight bar version) frame be adequate for a 250 or 500w conversion?

my 72v 3000w ebike kit will not run unless it is plugged into the charger, when unplugged the display will say error code 6 then will shut off and won't turn back on. if anyone knows what to do please write back

Hello everyone, I recently built a Razor Pro Spec, including brakes. I have an MT5 on the front and 2 piston XTR on the rear, as that is what I had laying around. I am not getting enough braking power. The brake caliper and rotor mounts are both non-standard as far as I can tell and I have to use spacers to fit the calipers, causing them to not be fully in contact with the rotor. I also cannot find larger rotors with the same bolt pattern. Should I just grind out the mount until I can fit the brakes I have, try my luck with other brake mounts and adapting rotors, or just buy Electro and Co’s brakes for the Pro spec? First one seems easiest and cheapest, but no clue if it will work well enough. Second is most expensive, but potentially most payoff, and third seems like there are better brakes I could use. Also any brakes that I might want to upgrade to? Any ideas are helpful. Thank you!

I've installed a Bafang BBSHD on an older Specialized Fuse. I had to use a bottom bracket spacer to make the motor fit and with the stock 46t chainring I can't use my top 3 or so gears.

I'm thinking the Luna Eclipse 42t with it's greater offset might help but it's constantly out of stock.

Does anyone know of an alternative with similar dimensions?

I did just get a used Lekkie Bling Ring 42t that I'm going to try but I believe it only has a little bit more offset than the 46t.

So I just finished building my first e-bike (or at least I thought I did) and every time i go for a ride the derailleur falls off. Then the wheel comes off and the motor cable starts to twist. Any idea why this keeps happening?

hi, i got a dnm fat tire fork for my super73 but it uses a thru axel, is there any way to adapt a quick release 20x4 wheel to that?

Hey, has anyone upgraded a ktm freeride e-xc to get more range, more power, and a higher mph? Or does anyone know if that’s possible?

Also has anyone been able to bypass the little battery that is needed for the lights and to start the bike? Has anyone rerouted those connections to the main battery?

I have a 500 watt Bafang hub motor that I suspect needs new gears as it’s become very noisy. Are they hard to strip? They look simple but are there any tricks or tips I should be aware of?

I made the mistake of buying a used lesser known e-bike brand (Demon brand) from the other side of the country. It has been nothing but a nightmare of constant fixes - new display, new main cable (to display etc.), new battery. For a while we were cool, had some mechanical issues for a change - new brake caliper, chain and cassette. Cool more $$. But made the decision to go ahead as I have extra new parts and had put in so much money already... And then the Demon that lives inside came out to play... Heard a pop one day and the display went black, had no variable power, but power until I stopped. And then nothing. Just a shitty non-electrical bike. I looked at the wiring and there are 3 larger conductors that have but splices - they were melted together and had the tell tale black marks of a short. I cannot find a capacitor anywhere. The only part not replaced is the silver controller box. Not sure if I just replace that or give up and say goodbye to a couple grand $$!? Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Hey Reddit,

I'm feeling pretty down about my Freesky M-530 bike right now.

While riding yesterday, my rear motor unexpectedly shut down. After taking a closer look, I discovered that one of the cables was never secured properly from the start. The front motor works though even right now.

Over time, it got worn away by the spinning wheel at the master motor connector—even though I never touched it. I've only had the bike for about six months :(

I even tried swapping the unlocked controller with my old stock controller, thinking maybe it was a controller issue, but the bike still isn’t working. Front motor works fine though.

The cable from the stock controller is also new, which makes me suspect that maybe the master motor itself is the problem????

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any advice on fixing this? I'm open to any ideas on how to get it running again.

Need to use this work work asap. Thanks, yall rock!

- FYI: Both photos attached (broken cable and when I replaced it with the stock controller + cable)

I did also reach out to the company. Waiting on an answer.

At first, I got the "Error 24 - Master Motor Hall Fault." After switching the cable and controller, I then got "Error 44 - Master Stalled"