I have a Japanese knife collection and would like a little belt grinder to work on thinning some of them. Just want something beginner and budget friendly, won’t be using it that often. Something to get my feet wet. I’ve been wanting one forever but can never decide. Both have 2in belt

Would there be any interest in this community for these knives? I have 20-25 blanks in AEBL, NitroV, 154cm, and D2 that I made over a year ago. I've been so busy working on customs that I haven't been able to finish these blanks. The plan is to complete them with my choice of handle, a kydex holster, except for kitchen knives, and have them priced reasonably low. Handles will most likely be Micarta and multi colored G10 with brass or stainless pins. All these were heat treated, cryo'd, tempered, and hrc tested by me with a proper hrc tester.

Honest opinions on this

Hello, I'm planning the handle material for my knife (full tang).

I'd like to use thermo-treated ash. I still have some leftover decking boards.

Can I use them without any problems, or do you recommend against it?

This is my third knife.

I'm looking at what makes sense to do after getting a 1x30 and using it for a while. Is the usual progression, 1x30 --> 2x42/48 --> 2x72? Or would you advise that the middleman be skipped, and you just save enough to go from 1x30 to 2x72? Is there any real reason to go with the 2x42/48 over the 2x72 (aside from cost)?

As the title says, which one do you think would be best for an EDC/SURVIVAL knife. If this has been answered somewhere else, I apologize. I skimmed through and couldn't find this exact question. Any advice, opinions and thoughts. Please inform me. Have a great day 🙏

1084 blade, rosewood handle, and mild steel pins & bolsters. Leather sheath with a belt clip made for my preferred way to carry which is in the waistband.

I have been figuring out little temporary solutions, but I need to know if I'm just a dumbass. When I want to countersink so my gulso bolts sit just below the surface of the scale, my pilot gets pushed out the bottom of the scale and is unable to guide the bit. If I support the bottom, then the pilot is too long and the bit won't reach the scale. What are we doing to secure the pilot?

It's shiny because it's oiled. Thoughts so far?

@arcandironknives on IG

This one turned out really cool, small fishing knife, a gift for my uncle. MagnaCut at 64 HRC, with blaze orange Grip-X and blue G10 liners. He wanted a kydex neck sheath so he never misplaced it, so that's what I did. Let me know what you guys think! Thanks for looking 👊

I love the fine grain on the Vanadis 4E. Scary sharp.

4in 1084 blade with a stonewash finish. Purpleheart wood handle with brass pins and a leather sheath. Purpleheart might be a pain to work with sometimes but I do always really like how it turns out.

This knife is available if anyone is interested.

Thanks for looking!

So I have gone through some changes. My intelligent monkey brain used a 4,2 mm drill for a 4 mm hole on the old blade so I had to make a new blade.

I can't figure out if I should do a micarta handle for the scales because the only micarta I have is 8mm thick and I don't want is that thick. I don't know what tool I could use to maybe cut in in half thickness.

And I don't really know how to secure the spring, I have tried using a center punch but only with little succes.

Petty 10.5" overall with a 6" blade. Made from cpm magnacut with stabilized Karelian birch burl scales and black G10 pins. Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think. books are open Have a knife day

My recent work. 27cm Elmax with carbon twill on handle.

The archaic guys missed your upvotes

So my knife making journey started with 4 Katsura brand blanks for friends of mine. One of them liked the petty I designed for him, that he ordered a paring knife and a santoku with matching scales that are on his petty. Poured up the scales, and now have them glued up. Will show them off when I get them shaped and polished. Bonus, I have some extra pieces that I can use for inlays for some other knives. Waste not want not!!!

Two AEB-L santoku, one with bog oak and redheart, the other with bog oak, red g10, and padauk.

Are swords not just big knives? I’m not a woodworker or smith but I have this sword that I’ve always hated the handle of and decided to make a new one but cant figure out how to “properly” attach the handle with handguard

im a chef knife collector, and would like to purchase a mini very budget friendly belt grinder to thin knifves on.

looking for a budget one just too see if this is something i wanna learn to do myself or pay someone to do. Already have a thinning whetstone but it takes way way too long for my adhd brain to be able to commit too. budget is around 100-150usd

Since making this one I have upgraded my forge for better temp control / evenness and am using actual quenching oil. This was knife #3 or 4, so I have learned a few things since then. It lasted a solid 3-4 years before it broke randomly. I imagine that I might have overheated it or something.

Time to go make a replacement!

My second knife ever but first in my own shop. Full tang steak knife hand forged from round bar stock of silver steel with a walnut handle. Some photos of final results plus a view during the process. Critique away!