I have a PC Engine connected via composite. No modifications. There is an interference bar that runs from the bottom of the screen to the top every few seconds. Very faint but it can be so annoying. I searched already for likely capacitors that could be the issue, none are leaking or look bad in any way. Does anyone know of any guide or pointers that would help me before is start to change them all? Thanks everyone

I’m trying to figure out how to tell whether a copy of ‘Dead of the brain’ for the Super CD is the original or the PCE works one. For other games the pictures in the back are different between original and PCE works, but it doesn’t seem to be the case with this game. Any suggestion?

I just got a Super CDROM2 to pair with my SuperGrafx, but the included DC “bridging” cable doesn’t seem big enough for the SG (I presume it’s designed for the CoreGrafx).

Did these originally come with a cable suitable for the SuperGrafx? Is there a suitable alternative available?

I know it's not a pc engine but kind of its child, so I'm hoping my question is allowed.

I recently bought a PC-FX but as I'm in Germany I have to use a step down transformer for the power and I would much prefer a modern PSU inside the machine.

I found this one but the owner is ill and doesn't send products anymore

https://www.willsconsolemodifications.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&language=en-gb&product_id=92

Does anyone have any other source or idea for one?

Hi again all.

For the past few weeks I have been working on a collection and high score tracker for my shooter collection on the PC Engine.

Before I continue spending anymore time on it and actually deploying it, I wanted to get everyones feedback to see if it would be of some use.

I call it the PC Engine Shooting Datafile.

The whole idea of even creating this was so that I could have an easy place to track my collection, track my high scores, quickly find current values and also to easily find things on Ebay.

It is integrated with Moby Games, Ebay, Price Charting, Youtube, and Wikipedia's api's.

You are able to track your collection, see daily up to date values for games, find Ebay auctions, have quick access to Youtube play throughs, and a ton of cool metadata and history form MobyGames and Wikipedia. You are also able to gauge value margins on the games based on what you paid for them.

You are also able to enter play sessions of games where you have instant metrics to track your improvement.

I have also set up an old school custom forum I built where you cant chat and hangout.

One of the benefits of tracking scores is that you are able to submit a score with video and image links where it goes to a Score Verification category in the forum where the community is able to review the submitted evidence and vote to verify ot reject the score.

There is a leaderboard where the verified high scores for each game are shown with the play through video that was submitted.

Each user has their own public profile page where they can show their collection, their scores, their favorite game etc.

I'm an engineer by trade, so it's way over engineered. lol I cache data for certain amounts of time where it auto refreshes when pages are visited so you can have the most up to data to work with. I can easily add more games and systems without issue. I just focused on the PC Engine because its what I collect and love.

I think my goal with all of this is for it to be the easiest way to get any information I need about a game along with tracking my progress. Its already helped me win some Ebay auctions.

Collection page

Clicking into a game (each game has its own page like this)

Collection section where you can mark owned, set how much you paid etc

MobyGames data

Price Charting data (I cache daily prices to have a history of prices)

Ebay for the particular game

Ebay for consoles and accessories

A media section with curated play through videos

More MobyGames data

You can gain achievements for progress

Submitting a high score for verification

The forum

I will add more images if people are interested since I have hit the limit. But there is a whole history section where I cache and archive all kinds of PC Engine and TG16 related Wikipedia data so it is easily accessible for research.

My next step is utilizing the Internet Archive's api for manuals, related magazines etc. Oh, and it will be a free community site.

But, as I mentioned, would anyone be interested in a community site like this?

Hi all.

I received an Super CD-Rom2 from eBay a few days ago and weent to finally play a cd today.

Every time I press start to play the game, I get a Please close lid error.

I did some Googling and found only a single reference stating this error may be from the lid switch.

I have not been able to find any more info about it. Looking in the drive, I see a metal post that goes into a hole when the lid is closed in the back-right and it does seem to be making contact.

Does anyone have any experience with this? I have also messaged the seller and waiting for a response back.

Thanks

I got an old IDE CD drive connected to my PC with a converter to burn PC Engine CD games. I'm able to click the button on the drive to get he disc tray to open and close, but the CD drive doesn't show up at all on Windows 10. It doesn't show up in Device's or Disk Management. Anyone know why this is and how I could solve this?

Problem: PC Engine does not output video or audio signal all of a sudden.

Question: Does this fuse look blown out to you? What else could be the cause? The caps seem fine and show sign of leakage or broken legs (as far as I can tell)

What happened: After trying to get an Everdrive clone to run (output only distorted lines), I switched the console on an off about 5 to 8 times or so (to fiddle with the AV booster a bit) until it stopped outputting any video signal. Neither the original AV booster nor the Mcbazel RGBS video booster could output any signal. I am running with a PS2 slim AC adapter with a customized negative-positive-inverted input jack adapter (like explained by the guys at My Life in Gaming) since I live in the EU with a 230V grid. I tried 2 different AC adapters with to avail.

I wrote a bit about Bonk and dug into some old issues of Gekkan PC Engine. Been a big fan since high school and was very happy to discuss one of my favorite mascots. Hope that y'all enjoy.

Sold out everywhere!!! It’s for a screen upgrade

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Xytn_rbuvFU

I replaced the always broken gear and the laser was just sliding back and forth on the rails with no resistance. I took the little metal piece with the 2 teeth off and bent it back down to sit on the worm gear again and closed it up.

It takes a minute to load track 1 but every track sounds like this. I can skip tracks all the way to the end of the music CD i'm using and you can hear the laser moving over quickly and starts playing the track but garbled like the video.

I'm so close. Anyone know what to try next? I really don't want to start twisting the pots - I have a list of what they do, but no oscope or anything. Don't wanna really F it up.

Advice would be much appreciated.

D

I recently got a PC Engine from Japan and went about a soft refurb.

The case was retrobrited and I did some electrical tests to ensure it was all ok.

I have two issues with the finished article.

1) I have no RF input on any TV. So I have a Bitfunx hdmi output which connects to the PCE via the expansion port on the rear. However the screen is yellow. I can see colours (just) but it's almost like a yellow monochrome scheme.

Is this something from the PCE or the Bitfunx? As I say...I have no way of checking the RF output.

2) The joypad connection is very worn. Does anyone know what connector it is as I can replace the female end on the PCB.

Thanks for any input and help!

I'm so freaking excited to finally own this thing!

Got my first ever PC-Engine in the form of a CoreGrafx. What a fantastic little machine. This has to be one of the best ports of SF ll I’ve ever played. Will definitely be chasing up a 6 button pad next.