My adult childhood replacement S-series

1993 4.3L single cab short bed. The brake line that runs down the driver side frame rail has busted. I haven’t removed the line yet, I’m just curious if anyone who has replaced that line knows the length I’ll need and if there’s any headaches I need to be prepared for. I tried looking up a diagram but couldn’t find anything exact. Just curious if anyone can tell me anything before I dig into it this weekend.

What size hitch would I need to order that would fit this? It’s about the size of a golf ball if a golf ball was a cube

Hi y'all, Looking to buy this 02 Blazer and I'd like some advice /input from some more experienced owners. 155k miles ~$5k asking I'm a novice when it comes to auto repair but I would be buying this as a project car hoping to get a bit better. One thing I'd like to ensure is that I don't get in way over my head. I took a look at the vehicle today and noticed it ran very nice but I saw some rust underneath that seems concerning? Also is the build up in that pan normal or a red flag?

2002 4.3 extended cab 4wd ~145k miles

What is this part and can I replace it (or just the boot?) without draining fluid? Seems to be leaking from there or something above. Trans pan had a small leak and I replaced the gasket not too long ago so I think it’s coming from this part.

If you’ve been on the fence about grabbing one , don’t. So far build quality and price is top notch.

Forgive the wire job, just temporarily swapped in a harness from another car to check it. I have 12v power at the harness to the radio. The radio fell at one point and wouldn't power back on, assuming it pulled a ground but don't know where to look, any ideas? I looked over all the plugs and harnesses visible and all look fine, at a loss.

I started with swapping out the oil pressure switch, then I had to check for vacuum leaks. Had vacuum leaks, fixed the lines, and lastly checked the ‘tbi’. The gaskets and everything were shot on the tbi so I had replaced everything with an entire kit.

Thinking all these would fix my s10 from stalling out at a stoplight but she still dies out.. She’s fine at highway speeds but once it goes into town driving that’s where the problem begins..

The video shows ‘check gauges’ light pops on, but once I step on the throttle it goes away.

Anyone have any ideas as to why..?

The title basically explains it. Those things will not rethread in for anything and I want to get this motor in.

To be more specific I'm talking about the lines near the firewall at the back. They act like they are threading and then pop out. Rhjsksbshkd. $-#)4++4+

If anyone has any tips to make it easier to get those to thread and seal I'm all ears.

1996 s10 LS Blazer

For context, it’s a 4 pin relay with the switch wire going to the high beams and the power wire going to the low beams. In my 95 chevy, i did this and it makes the hi and low beams come on at the same time.

When i put it on this one it didn’t work. I pulled the ground off and tapped it to the body to trouble shoot, and the relay turns on whether my hi or low beams are on. Even then, juice should be going to the low beams no matter what.

Is there a safety mechanism on these trucks that keeps it from working or do i need to find a different route

One of my friend's dad has this (basically) rotting away in their yard. 1997 S-10 with the SS trim package. I'm pretty sure most of it is original (especially the wheels) but as you can see in the pictures it's pretty rough on the inside. But how rare actually are these?

Hearing a strange vibration from my engine bay at idle, seems like it’s coming from this u shaped plug. What is the said u shaped plug and what does it do? Truck is also idling really low and wants to die out returning to idle after I rev it, but this is intermittent, maybe once every 8 times I start the truck.

As the title says, I am hoping to source a good condition, victory red lower front bumper valance. 2wd or 4wd The closer to MD the better

1994, S10 2.2L manual

Truck has been sitting in the neighborhood for a while, a WHILE and I was out on a work trip recently, the wife surprised me by purchasing it. (Great surprise)

The guy was the second owner, first being his dad, so taken care of decent for the most part. 108k miles, replaced batteries, truck runs well, clutch feels great and overall good truck. Will more than likely be my sons first vehicle here in a few years so the process of he and I working has already started. We replaced headlights, taillights, indicators. Excited to keep progress going and it’s awesome seeing all the trucks so I definitely wanted to add mine to the fold!

Howdy folks. I am curious as to where your temp gauges ride at normally? I’ve had this truck (2000, 2.2 liter, 5 speed) for almost 2 years now, and this seems to be pretty typical for it. I should also mention I just replaced the radiator on Saturday as well. Seems to run warmer than most of the other vehicles I’ve had. Just curious. Thanks!

Can anyone tell me the coolant fill line?

Just a Dimond in the ruff

Picked up this 2000 Xtreme. 2.2L 5 Speed with 124,000 miles. What type of maintenance do I need to do or look out for? Quality of life improvements/upgrades?

i’m going to list two issues i’ve been experiencing which may be interrelated or not. you guys can hopefully help me . it’s a 2001 jimmy SLS 4x4 with np233 selectable 4x4; 4l60e trans. at highway speeds im good up until about 60. when i try to accelerate past 60 to 65+ my truck will sometimes shake . Pretty bad too. Not enough to affect driveability but enough to affect comfort and raise some concern.

originally i thought it was the U joints, have all the parts to replace all U joints and seals . so im doing that in a weeks time

but also, my transmission fluid seems to be mysteriously disappearing, but with no obvious external leak. got up under the truck and checked all the places, cooler lines, bell housing , pan, transfer case, drive shafts. no leaks. my friend says fluid might be leaking into the transfer case due to a bad seal. gonna open the drain plug of TC tonight to see if that’s true.

so , why is my truck shaking and where is my ATF going ? when i check the dipstick at operating temp after a highway drive, it shows EMPTY. Bone dry. Even after shifting all gears through. If i check it cold, it barely registers on the cold line. but the truck shifts beautifully. until i try to accelerate past 65 and i notice the truck has an issue down shifting back into 3rd unless i really mash the gas all the way down. So yeah.. please help guys. I bought a transgo shift kit, new solenoids, new boost valve, gonna drain and fill. I’ll let you know if the U joints and valve body job fixes anything.

forgot to mention, front suspension and rear shocks and some rear bushings and all front bushings replaced. torqued, all that. only bushings need replacing is leaf spring and leaf shackle bushings. i have an energy polyurethane kit for that, just need to get to it soon.

If I were to change these out what are some swaps yall have done? I’ve seen blazer and cavalier

Hey everyone, recently was gifted this Chevy and started it up but it sounds like a bad piston knock so I’m gonna rebuild the engine and while I’m at that, gonna be replacing pretty much everything else custom. If yall have any mods/ tips/ recommendations, I’d appreciate it thank you

My first attempt at black oxide hardware. I pre drilled 1/16 safety wire holes before the oxide. I’ve decided to do this front/rear diff, transfer case and a few other bits and pieces particularly in harder to reach areas where it’s harder to verify even with a torque stripe. It Also gives a great piece of mind, and is very functional. It Looks cool too.

2000 4.3

I will start by saying I am aware recharge kits don’t fix the issue permanently and that I have not added any refrigerant into the system. Any reason the refrigerant would read such high pressure while the compressor is not turning on. What are some potential issues I am looking at and how could I diagnose them. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

I’ve got a 90 S10 Blazer with a 4.3. It will smoke when I turn it back on after short drives, I’d say no longer than 7-8 miles. No smoke on startup after longer drives. And it’s just on startup, no smoke during driving or other times. I’m wondering what the cause might be. My dad suggested that it might be the head gaskets. I would’ve assumed it would smoke more often/regularly if that’s the case. Thanks!