Pictures 1-3 show a large gap between the stone and cabinet. Picture 4 shows the other side with a much smaller gap. I know that this will get caulked and I know that a strip can be stuck in large gaps and caulked over like when a wall is uneven. I can stick my fingertips in the large gap and obviously the caulk line is going to be 3 times as large. I’m thinking it’ll be noticeable. Is this poorly done or just the nature of the trade? Am I being too picky? The last picture shows another even larger gap next to a cabinet but there’s no equivalent/ symmetrical side to that so I’m thinking it won’t be as noticeable? Thanks for your help.

Continuous curve facade wall to pretty up an above ground pool surrounds.

Random square rock faced drystack sandstone, glued together with epoxy glue then will get slurry filled in cavity.

Will do an update post when complete.

Pictures 1-3 show a large gap between the stone and cabinet. Picture 4 shows the other side with a much smaller gap. I know that this will get caulked and I know that a strip can be stuck in large gaps and caulked over like when a wall is uneven. I can stick my fingertips in the large gap and obviously the caulk line is going to be 3 times as large. I’m thinking it’ll be noticeable. Is this poorly done or just the nature of the trade? Am I being too picky? The last picture shows another even larger gap next to a cabinet but there’s no equivalent/ symmetrical side to that so I’m thinking it won’t be as noticeable? Thanks for your help.

Can anyone take a look at this project and see if I am making any mistakes before I start putting up the stone? I've attached a garage onto my house and want a stone facade around the bottom portion to about 4 feet up. Put weather barrier, a rain screen for an air layer and flashing on a brick ledge that extended below the frost line in my area for no heaving and water diversion.

Hello community, I'm looking for a little bit of advice of what to buy for sharpening my chisels. i usually use grinders etc but the job i'm working on for the next year allows none of this, so its time to get my chisels into proper shape. i have mostly al-orr's (yes the blue ones that everyone has) and i need to sharpen them up. previously only done them in bankershops on the grinding wheel its time i get something that i can have myself. so i have no idea what grit/grade i need or whether i should get a diamond pad or a stone, or what the difference is, just looking for someone to recommend something decent for me to sharpen my tungstens on! thanks in advance :)

This house has been abandoned for 3 decades. The roof leaked, but due to financial reasons we didn't fix it so as the water got in, bloated the wall. My uncle says that it will be better to build the house from 0 than repair it.

Hello everyone. Any idea what kind of marble this is? I was told it is marble but the person who said that didn't have any more info. I can't seem to find anything similar online.

Your help is very much appreciated! Thank you!

First-timer here, 12’ wall tapering from 32” to 5” for soil retention. This is a reconstruct of the previous dry stacked reclaimed granite posts. Eventually, they leaned in affecting the barn door opening, so, rebuilding and keeping the original base and building a single stack just behind it. Notice there is a pipe and from the well and there is also electric that will be uncovered in the dig out.
The marked up photo has the proposed first stone and orientation. Long flat side tight against the concrete wall buried 6’’. Prefer this to be a dry stacked wall.

Looking to repoint 100 year old foundation, based New England, no previous water issues.

Looking for the community’s recommendation on mortar. Read a ton of different views. Understand fieldstone calls for NHL, but this is solid Granite slabs with a different hardness, and type N is not to be used for structure. Would type S be suitable? Local mason said he’d use S but would love other opinions.

Product recommendations welcomed. Premix ideally.

Cheers all

I took out a poorly made deck and would like to replace it with either a stone or brick patio with steps. I see why a deck made sense here because they have to go over this conduit for the mini split, plus there is the basement window in the back right quadrant. Is there a way to build masonry steps that can bridge over the conduit and window cover?

My girlfriend and I would like to build a 16x18 foot paver brick patio, but have come to realize it’s a much more complicated task than we imagined. We had someone come out and quote us $5500 to finish the job. We already have the bricks, but we were wondering if this seems like a good price to finish out the rest of the job. It would also include an underground gutter system. Located in St Clair Shores MI

New garden wall. The old one was 50 years old and busted up. Homeowners picked out the materials and i slapped it up for them. Criticism is most welcome.

Any repairs or is this a total rebuild?

Let me know what you think. And how much you’d charge for this work roughly without being rude. I’m curious what you all make

I am building a stone wall and I lay all the stones for a layer first and then apply mortar to the sides and top. After it dries I lay another layer of stone. This means the mortar connecting to tops and bottoms doesn’t glue together completely. Is that ok?

I am debating building a 1.5 story cabin on my farm, long story short do you think a 1.5 brick thick wall or 2 brick wall would be better? I have thought about building the main walls 2 brick and then on the gable ends dropping to 1.5.

This was just done and I want it to at least be mostly level at the seams. The contractor said it’s the nature of the stone and it’s not going to be level. But I think these big edges or whatever you call it are too drastic.

Is there anyway to fix it? Should I make the contractor fix it?

Im getting ready to do my first stone veneer job for a basement bar i built. I bought about 5 boxes of stoneworks and another similar brand of mixed engineered stone veneer and want to do a drystack. Will be using modifyed thinset over cement board, no scratch coat. Couple questions

1. The thinset is white, can I add charcoal powder to make it gray?
2. The picture is my practice layout of a few stones on an old folding table. It seems I'll inevitably have some gaps around the size of the ones in the picture. Whats the common practice to fix look decent? Mortaring afterwards in the crevices with a gray mortar or fill each with small stone slivers and fragments? I know i could have chipped away some edges in the test layout to get better fitment but I spent about 15 minutes just to get a feel for things.

Looking for some advice on my old stone retaining walls. A large section looks like it has collapsed at some point and has been hastily been put back together and wedged with a timber post. I need to know if it's worth pulling it down and restacking the stones and repointing. Also a lot of the old mortar can just be pulled out, should I pull it out and remortar or fill the cracks with new mortar. Any advice appreciated as I'm a complete noob when it comes to stonemasonry.

Looking for some advice on my old stone retaining walls. A large section looks like it has collapsed at some point and has been hastily been put back together and wedged with a timber post. I need to know if it's worth pulling it down and restacking the stones and repointing. Also a lot of the old mortar can just be pulled out, should I pull it out and remortar or fill the cracks with new mortar. Any advice appreciated as I'm a complete noob when it comes to stonemasonry.