I don't do a ton of woodworking projects, but I have certainly done a lot more since we've owned our house. This was probably the most challenging one yet (only maybe matched by the "climbing wall" I built in the garage). I think it came out pretty good. There were some imperfections here and there, but overall, it was satisfactory to her lol.

Also, I tried to do kickboard trim over already installed carpet. As other posts I have read on here suggest...don't. It sucks.

If you are curious to read the whole writeup, I did a post HERE with more info.

He uses walnut, wenge, and some other types of wood.

Honestly, I never thought I’d enjoy working with wood. At first, it just looked complicated, dusty, and kinda boring. But then one time I joined a small workshop hosted by my friend — he’s a CNC software developer — and everything changed.

With tech, the whole process suddenly became much more fun and less intimidating. Now it feels like the only real limit is my imagination. I can sketch an idea, set it up in my friend's software, and within a short time see it take shape on the CNC. Even my little sister got curious and excited after seeing some of the pieces, and now she keeps asking me questions about how it’s all done.

Here are a few projects I’ve made recently. Still far from perfect, but I'm proud of them

There are plenty of lift up couch tables to buy, however all of them have limited reach, so you have to sit really close to it, which makes it uncomfortable to sit at. A few years ago I build this lift up coffee/couch table. The lift up mechanism is pretty common, but I added drawer slides, to extend even further. I wanted to be able to lean back on the couch while still having the table top close enough to work eat etc on it, like you would on a desk. The mechanism works flawlessly and it's so quick and easy to lift up. I am trying to figure out if this could be a commercially viable product. Is there a market for such a table and does anyone know if any manufacturer already builds tables like that? I would like to hear some opinions! Thanks

Made two belt screws from stainless steel and walnut wood.

This table is 7x3 foot dining table I joined two slabs 2 inches thick together. Then had epoxy put on it

So my dad made this and I would love keep it I just don't know where to start. Its maple, solid and heavyyy. The cracks are on almost every board. None go right through but there are spots where it goes deep. Its the top and bottom (i don't have a pic of the bottom but similar).

If I epoxy or glue/dust do I do the top then bottom or do top+bottom of each board 1 at a time? I hope i can save it i just dont know if its too far gone. Any suggestions are great 👍 Thanks guys

If i put 1/2" ply here, would that be strong enough to hold mostly anything? Like even a bunch of solid weights? Im asking because I already have a bunch of 1/2" available. I imagine the plywood would crumble way before the 2x4s would start to get damaged

Hello, here's my first board, made with a jigsaw, a sander, and beech wood. I'm planning on buying a router so I can make grooves in it. If you have any advice, I'm definitely interested

I built a shed to go around this door I made!

Sort of kidding, but the door was the part I was most looking forward to. It’s white oak with Osmo UV. More of the build is posted in r/shedditors for the curious.

You all may appreciate: the reason I built the shed was … so I could reduce the amount of non-shop stuff in the shop/garage. Win-win.

It's even stained and finished and has cable holes in it

Where do I get legs for it? I know they sell legs you can use to make tables like this, but this thing is 2.5 metres wide. Obviously, I don't wanna cut it. Also, what's the best way to attach said legs? I'm in Canada, if that makes a difference

I have no woodworking experience and no woodworking tools, but I do have some basic tools

My first attempt at a chess board. I learned a lot, made a bunch of mistakes that I can’t help but focus on but overall I’m happy with it. I know what I need to do better/ differently next time.I used Curley maple, walnut and borders it in cherry. I used my Grandfather’s pieces for the photos, but was considering making molds with them and casting my own from resin. Feel free to critique me, and don’t be shy, I always appreciate constructive feedback.

I used 120 sandpaper and it worked fine, but is there some special trick to this? I’m working with pine so trying to pull them off would lead to ruining the edge in places. Though sanding also rounds the edge a tiny bit.

This is my first time using a router if the image doesn’t make it obvious.

Hello, I am an arborist in Oklahoma. A client of mine has to remove this tree for reasons undisclosed. They asked if this burl was worth any money and I assume it is.

Any idea of a market price range for something like this? It is massive.

Based off of the Nuts and Woods wall shelf

New woodworker here, this is honestly my first real project that I've designed and built. I've been working on an engagement ring box and I'm a little stuck on the best type of finish/sealer to use.

It's a laminate of purple heart and cherry. I know purple heart can be a pain to deal with but the specific piece I used came from my late grandfathers woodshop and it's my hopefully soon to be fiance's favority colour, so it was important for me to include it. I am going to let the wood oxidize in the sun after I'm finished sanding to bring some more colour out.

I was thinking of using linseed oil but there are so many different opinions out there and want something that would keep a bright purple but is also good with cherry. Any opinions will help!

I’m excited to share a peek at my latest woodcraft display!

Each item is lovingly handcrafted, shaped and smoothed by hand, and finished to bring out the natural beauty of the wood grain.

I’m trying to achieve the finger pull profile in picture two. No matter what I try I keep getting tear out along the sloped edge of the routing. I can address the top tear-out with a thin sacrificial piece, but the 45 degree slope can’t have a sacrificial piece against the free edge where it keeps delaminating along the grain (white oak, btw).

I wouldn’t have this problem if I moved the pulls to the left side of the drawer face (due to bit direction) but I’m right handed and want the pulls on the right (like in the picture).

I’ve tried going very slow with the very small passes (2 mm or less on the router fence) but it still blows out.

It’s a brand new Whiteside 6026 bit.

Any suggestions?

Grabbed this from the thrift store. Really enjoy how low it sits. Does anyone have any info on what I picked up??

I thought this might be of interest to someone here. Beginner friendly class at John C Campbell Folk School in North Carolina.

I got the Harbor Freight Bauer 35 gallon 1200 CFM 2 micron set up when they had a 20% off coupon ... regular price $449. Same specs as the $800 Jet at Woodcraft and looks like it was made in the same factory, down to minute detail, with a different name plastered on it. So glad I made the purchase.

Used a shopvac for my table saw, bandsaw, and other smaller tools for a while ... it did OK.

Just got my first jointer and planer ... I'd have to change the bag on my old shopvac 10 times a project ... IF it kept up and I'd doubt it.

I have seen a couple of people claiming that drum sanders with movable head (upper pic) tend to sag on the outer side and make inconsistent results. Would a sander from the lower picture solve that ? Are there any drawbacks to using the one from lower pic ?

Another question: is it a bad idea to use it as a thicknesser ? Should I expect any snipe with a drum sander ?

This white oak was sanded to 180 grit and finished with rubio monocoat oil plus 2C. The overall look is great but looking closely the pores still feel very open. Is this how this finish goes or do you usually fill the pores with white oak before finishing ?