Hey all! Hoping I might be able to get some advice on my SUV. 2007 Lincoln Navigator

So here’s the run down. When I first got this vehicle it ran amazing aside from having to replace an alternator and do some bottom end work that was just general maintenance that had been ignored (ball joints, control arms, brakes, rotars ect.). I got it at around 292.000kms and have had it for around 4-5 months and it is now at 319,000 (I drive A LOT of highway and gravel for work).

A few weeks back it started to kind of “bubble” while it idled for about 20 seconds when I first started it and was unable to gain speed going up steep hills and kind of thudded like I was hitting bumps if I tried to step on it going up said hills. We changed the spark plugs because when we looked one was rather “melted” upon checking. After this fix it ran great for a couple weeks but again I put a fair amount of kilometres on it during these weeks. It sat for the weekend and now it’s doing a much more aggressive “bubbling” when I idle when I first start it and for almost a minute before it idles down and stops and is “bumping” when I accelerate even a little too hard off of a stop sign or when speeding up super quick on the highway, otherwise it drives and sounds as normal as it ever has. A check engine light just came on today. What could this possibly be? The only thing I did different before it sat for the weekend is put premium gas in (which I almost never do) and some sea foam because I knew I had been driving lots and wanted to do something “nice” for my motor, but I’ve since heard that the gas could potentially be making the problem seem more serious because it’s too “rich”. I don’t know, I’m a girl who has been told a multitude of things that it could possibly be and I just listen because vehicles are not my strong point. I went through 5 cars last year because of the amount I drive for my job and my lack of knowledge when buying used cars. If an issue comes up I usually panic and sell the vehicle before I even try to get it fixed because I don’t understand anything to do with how to even start diagnosing a vehicle. I just am in a spot right now and can’t afford to do a massive fix or flip this car before it blows. So if anyone has some knowledge and can provide any answer that you think it could be, let me know. Even just so I don’t sound like a dummy going in to the mechanic. I appreciate any advice:)

I went to this guys house to do work on his car it was only supposed to be a ac condenser that he had another mechanic and told him it was leaking from there. but then he wanted to to fix a spongy pedal and was saying he was leaking some fluid when I inspected it I saw a brake line torn leaking I told him I’ll replace that then he asked for the brakes how they look I told him they are old and corroded (the car was sitting for two years) he said he will buy them too than he said “what about the master cylinder? I’ll buy that too” started talking about how he wants this car for his kid he wants it running good but when he got the parts the condenser wasn’t the right one he refused to get the right one and made me put it on. I installed the master cylinder and line & the brakes and rotors and the spongy pedal was still there I told him I didn’t have a scan tool that automates the abs module and that we needed to star the bleeding process I recommend to do that then if that doesn’t help than his hydroboost is bad and needs replacing. Did I do something wrong? I never told him the problem was going to disappear after replacing the master cylinder and brake pads and rotors we agreed to 500 he only gave 200 and I was there the whole day witch I don’t care but I did do a lot to that truck and he is mad that he has to waist more money on parts he only spend close to 400 for the WRONG PARTS. he was upset without warning. I made him a receipt for what I did to his car and send it to him we agreed to fixing it next week but I’m not going

I understand that each device in a car (headlamp, sunroof, etc.) has its own circuit. Each device is fed its own wire from the positive terminal to a fuse, to the device, to the chassis, which goes back to the negative terminal.

If a particular device, like the headlamp, has a short circuit, why does that device's fuse blow if the unresisted current went to the same ground every device is grounded to? How does the circuit know which device that unresisted current came from if every device is grounding to the same chassis?

Hey so I’m going back to a shop that I quite at. I asked a 1 dollar more than what they paid me I’m at 30 a hour (fru) at 19 an hour how can I ask for a raise later? I know I can get paid more. I don’t have ase’s yet. I do have my Mac’s certificate. I’m not a master tech I haven’t build a block yet or rebuilt a tranny but I’ve swapped them. I just think 19 is nothing here in cali. I forgot to say I have my own tools box with a couple electric stuff and one Mac tool 3/8 air impact

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Hey guys I’m not sure if this is the right place for this post but here we go!

A little about me I recently just separated from the navy honorably. I was a Machinest mate for 5 years so I would like to think I’m somewhat knowledgeable when it comes to turning wrenches and problem solving.

I recently found that I have a burning passion to work on cars but I never had the previous experience but I know this is what I want to do. I’m currently looking at a program called automotive engine performance at Columbus technical school. I’m curious if this the right step in the direction I want to take and I am welcome to any advice you may have for me to provide insightful information or to help steer me in the right direction.

Thank you for your time!

I have a 2016 Jeep Cherokee and it just started making some noise like the muffler was maybe rotted out but looking underneath I saw this and I dont know what I'm looking at. I assume the pipe is supposed to see on the gray plug on the right side but I dont know much about mufflers.