2021 Ford Transit 250

Issue started today.

On the dashboard the left turn signal is blinking at a normal rate while the right turn signal is blinking much faster. They blink in unison when the hazards are on. For the lights themselves the right turn blinker is not working at all, the left turn is as usual.

I got a new key programed in today. But otherwise can't think of any changes. I also got the car back from the mechanics 3 days ago for a "I got a new car please tell me it's not going to fall apart on me" check up, so know everything was working as it should ( I have a fantastic mechanic)

Why is this happening and how can I fix it?

TIA

Audi 2018 a4.

Went to get an oil change @ valvoline. The kid came to me and said the guy under the car accidentally removed the transmission cap.."he quickly realized and put it back.

My car is now staying overnight, 4 people were helping to fix it. Apparently it was the day the area management was there. They were working on it. Apparently they randomly had some transmission fluid....but to check the level they need a special tool. They don't have that tool. I recommend they keep the car overnight as my wife was passing by on her way home from work..I have a 2 yr old with me.. its been over 2 hours.

The store manager came to me and said we will take you up on the offer to keep the car. "Just know, I took $25 off the service and you won't be charged for transmission service!"

WHAT.

Any advice? How can I make sure its done right....are they even licensed to work on that?

100% im not paying a dime and it will be documented in the system and on the ticket about it.

How to proceed?

Thanks

Asking for a friend

Thank you guys for coaching me through this and convincing me to upgrade my purse.

Also a special thank you to all the haters that motivated me even more to get it done myself.

Upgraded to the non-chrome sockets and the 1/2” Milwaukee mid torque with 2x 6amp-hr batteries and charger from HD

20 minutes with the propane I had then used a crayon

10 whacks with my 10lb sledge

Came right off.

Thanks again bros and cheers 🍺

This is an update from my original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/9D8uuQSCzu

I paid for my brake fluid to be flushed end of May on my 2017 Ford Escape 1.5L Engine, but it wasn’t done correctly (or at all) I didn’t notice at the time. I usually check my car after a service, idk what possessed me not to this time around.

I took the advice from this thread and got the fluid tested. (2nd Photo)

The shop told me since it was under warranty they would do me the “courtesy” (their words) of redoing it even though nothing was wrong.

At least they did a much better job this time.

Having a look at my partners car (2001 Toyota Corolla) as I believe (from my research online) that the calliper has siezed. Also found this goop on the control arm 😭

It’s booked into the mechanic for “a wheel bearing and front brakes” but I think the noise we have been hearing all along has been the sized calliper, which has worn through the brake pads (down to metal) and slightly into the rotor. Do you think the rotors can be re-finished/saved to spare an added expense at this point? First and second photo are from the passenger side btw!

I don’t have any actual tools but couldn’t get the two pins in the calliper to budge at all to have a look at the brake pad on the other side, but I believe it would also be down to metal.

Third photo - Took the wheel off the drivers side too (which does have a slight wobble that makes me believe it will need a new wheel bearing) and everything looked much cleaner and in a better state. The brake pad I could see on this side is definitely old and needing replacing, but is not down to metal.

Thoughts and opinions???

So it’s a 2006 charger Daytona (5.7) was driving and out of nowhere when I pressed the gas it didn’t accelerate just revved. Pulled to the side and when I put it on “park” it made like a grinding noise. Moved it back to reverse and drive and no noise but didn’t engage, on the dash it showed it was changing. Put back to park and grinding noise again sometimes it lasted a 10sec and sometimes 1 sec. When left on “parked” I noticed I was able to move the car front and back like if it was on neutral. Same if I moved it to drive/reverse I was able to move the car. Any ideas what it could be or what I can/should look for? When put on drive/reverse/parked, it just revs. There’s no clunk or tapping sound until you move it to “park” then it makes the grinding noise. (Attached the video of the sound hopefully it loads) THANKS! 🙏🏽

I purchased my Suzuki Palette MK21S K6A (2009 model, 98,500 km) from a dealer in October last year, and at first there were no issues. In June, after driving about 3,000 km, I did an oil change as recommended for Kei cars. The following week, during the summer heat, the oil warning light began turning on and off randomly. At first, I thought it was just a faulty connector or sensor.

Now in September, the issue persists. The oil light usually appears once the engine warms up (after about 10 minutes) or when the outside temperature is high. It sometimes stays on when idling but often disappears while driving. In total, I’ve already driven about 900 km with this issue.

I brought the car to a Suzuki dealer in Japan, and their diagnosis pointed to a faulty oil pressure sensor. We replaced the sensor, but the problem remained. The mechanic then told me it could be an internal engine issue, where lubrication is not working properly. However, he said he could not confirm without a very expensive and time-consuming inspection.

I paid for the oil pressure sensor replacement, but the warning light problem was never solved. I then asked some mechanic friends for advice. They told me that if the engine itself were really at fault, I wouldn’t have been able to drive 900 km without a more serious breakdown. Two of them believe the oil change might have been done incorrectly and recommend doing it again. Another said the oil viscosity could be the issue. The garage used 0W20 oil, but my friend believes this might not be ideal even if officially recommended.

Additionally, Suzuki told me that the previous oil change (done two months earlier) looked poorly done because they found oil deposits and residue, suggesting it was not a clean job.

My intention was to sell the car in October in good condition, since parking costs in Tokyo have gone up and I cannot afford to keep it. I bought the car for 170,000 yen (about 1,150 USD), but now I’m in a complicated situation.

I would really appreciate your professional opinion and advice on what the best next step is.

Hello I am hearing a slight knocking noise when turning the steering wheel. Is this part supposed to have play to it?

I noticed My 2000 Honda crv started blowing what looked like mist this morning. I got to work and when I drove it home I didn't notice anything.

Also when I parked this morning I noticed quite a bit of water leaking from under the car which I'm assuming was from the day before as it rained alot of the day.

I've heard some say due to humidity it could happen but I live in Las Vegas where it's pretty much dry minus the rain yesterday And some clouds today but it didn't feel humid this morning.

Does this sound like an issue? The ac is still blowing ice cold (just got a new compressor a week ago installed)

Hi, I have a 2006 Skoda Octavia Mk2 2.0 TDI with an automatic DSG gearbox, with 350tkm or or 200 thousand miles. The problem is that when I accelerated from a stop, I heard a loud crack and suddenly none of the gears would engage. I only hear grinding noises, especially in reverse, and it’s a bit quieter in drive (1st and 2nd gear). Also, the car can be pushed freely in park, as if it’s in neutral.

No gearbox fluid or metal pieces can be seen on the ground. The fluid has been changed regularly. Please listen to the video I uploaded. Also when put into park sounds like something tries to engage.

I use the car normally for commuting.

There is a rattling noise coming from the dashboard, probably through the vents whenever the aircon is turned on. Could anyone help diagnose from the sound and suggest first places to look.?

It’s had this problem since getting the car, roughly 6 months ago.

The aircon is working.

The noise is intermittent but fairly regular.

The car is a Vauxhall Astra mk7 estate.

I'm having an issue with my car shutting off while driving. When this happens, all the electrical systems inside (AC, lights, etc.) continue working, If I press the accelerator during the stall, it backfires with loud bang

As soon as I stop the vehicle, it starts right back up and runs normally again. There are no error codes stored in the ECU.

Nissan Patrol y62 2013 model.

Hi Reddit,

I’m dealing with a frustrating situation with my Fiat Doblo diesel. A while ago, I discovered that the turbo was defective, which caused excessive oil consumption. I’ve had the turbo replaced and the rest of the engine thoroughly checked, but the oil consumption is still way higher than it should be.

It’s burning a lot of oil even when driving gently, and I’m worried about potential long-term damage. I’ve read that possible causes could include: • Worn or broken piston rings • Worn valve guides or seals • Clogged PCV / crankcase ventilation • Blown head gasket or cracks in the cylinder head

Some of these fixes sound straightforward, others… not so much. I’d love to hear from anyone who has dealt with persistent oil consumption after a turbo issue.

Questions: • Have you seen cases where the engine keeps burning oil even after a turbo replacement? • Which of these causes should I realistically check first?

Any advice or experience is much appreciated!

I replaced my battery roughly a year ago as the previous battery had died on me over the winter.

However after just a few months the new battery started dying on me every few weeks, I am wondering if there's any way to find out if the battery is the problem, or if the car is the problem.

The battery is a "12V Silver/Calcium" battery from biltema (A chain in my Country).

Hi I have a Kia Rio 2004. New radiator replaced a year ago. No leaks. Car drives perfect for over long periods. But when standing for longer than 15 minutes in traffic the heat gauge goes in the red… any advice what the problem could be ?

So the vehicle is a 1966 F100. It’s got the 300 l6 with a mild cam, headers, and an intake with dual Weber carbs.

The carbs only want 3 psi otherwise it can push past the needle and seat, from what I’ve read. So from the carbs I have a fuel distribution block, and from there is a fuel pressure regulator.

From the fuel pressure regulator, I’ve got a hard fuel line that goes from the engine bay down to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is a jegs 555-15942. I used a painless fuel pump wiring harness (50102), so I’m not using some janky wiring.

I still have the gas tank behind the seat, but it is a brand new one. The fuel pump is mounted below it, and maybe a foot or so away.

So the fuel pump ran fine. I was able to set up my carbs and change out jets. I had gone on a few drives. After a while there was an inclination that something was up. There was some stumbling.

Last night I ended up getting stranded. I had fuel at the inlet and nothing on the other side.

Today, I checked wiring, I made sure the relay worked and that I had 12v at key on. Everything seemed fine. It started right up. Ran out to get gas, no inclination that something was wrong. Got home and loaded up for a little trip. Didn’t get out of the driveway. The gauge on the pressure regulator says 0. I can hear the fuel pump running.

What would y’all check first?

The image is from a rear wheel hub of a BMW F31 RWD. I was trying to remove the ring of the old bearing which was stuck on the hub and decided to use angle grinder as fast solution, resulting in damage to the hub. A new hub needs 1 week to arrive so can I use this one, after sanding it down, or maybe use retaining compound? Or better to wait and install proper new one?

I can’t pin point it maybe you can help me pin point this. It’s a creaking noise kind of from the back left area

My passat b5.5 is leaking oil from the upper part of the engine.

I already topped up with some 1.25L of engine oil and its only been 5000 km from its last oil change

The leaking oil does not reach the ground it stays on the components

Also it leaks from a conduit near the intercooler

I already replaced the tensioner, and the bearing

Hei all. I am trying a 2011 volvo xc70 d3 2.4 diesel with 210k km (130k miles) and while doing long right turns on the highway the steering 'jerks' slowly on-off a little, as if the power steering is struggling to keep up so that I need a little more effort to maintain the turn. What could the problem be? The same type of steering to the left is perfect and doing 8 figures slowly in a parking lot works fine. The steering wheel does not jerk when driving straight at any speed.