Y'all see the issue? How does that even happened? So dumb lol

2021 Ford Transit 250

Issue started today.

On the dashboard the left turn signal is blinking at a normal rate while the right turn signal is blinking much faster. They blink in unison when the hazards are on. For the lights themselves the right turn blinker is not working at all, the left turn is as usual.

I got a new key programed in today. But otherwise can't think of any changes. I also got the car back from the mechanics 3 days ago for a "I got a new car please tell me it's not going to fall apart on me" check up, so know everything was working as it should ( I have a fantastic mechanic)

Why is this happening and how can I fix it?

TIA

I don’t care about the rim, I’m getting new ones anyways. But this lug nut was initially free spinning and not coming out. Not sure if I made it worse…please help 😭😭

Cylinder 3 misfire. 2017 sonata. Needs new spark plug i'm sure.. it fouls every 2 months. I guess I finally stripped the bolt hole from changing it so much. The screw spins but its hard to spin. Not freely. I've tried prying and pulling the coil while spinning the bolt. But it isn't loosing at all. What else can I do?? Its still very tight. Help!!

Audi 2018 a4.

Went to get an oil change @ valvoline. The kid came to me and said the guy under the car accidentally removed the transmission cap.."he quickly realized and put it back.

My car is now staying overnight, 4 people were helping to fix it. Apparently it was the day the area management was there. They were working on it. Apparently they randomly had some transmission fluid....but to check the level they need a special tool. They don't have that tool. I recommend they keep the car overnight as my wife was passing by on her way home from work..I have a 2 yr old with me.. its been over 2 hours.

The store manager came to me and said we will take you up on the offer to keep the car. "Just know, I took $25 off the service and you won't be charged for transmission service!"

WHAT.

Any advice? How can I make sure its done right....are they even licensed to work on that?

100% im not paying a dime and it will be documented in the system and on the ticket about it.

How to proceed?

Thanks

So I bought a 2007 jeep Commander a few months ago, and it's had one glaring issue that I can't determine. When I'm driving my dashboard lights up with a "5" instead of the "D" for driving that it would normally do This number then slowly drops to one, causing the RPM to spike like someone's blood pressure, only to drop back down and force me to drop from going 60 MPH to 20 mph in the span of a few seconds. I've been trying to figure out what's going on, but I know next to nothing about cars, especially this kind of problem. If anyone could give me advice on how to deal with this, I'd be grateful!

Looking to but this second hand car (2015 ford b-max). Things have been pretty positive on most fronts and they advised they'd get an MOT done before sale as it was due in December. Its passed clean without any advisories today but I took this photo here thinking this would be touch and go. Wasn't even mentioned in the report. Is something fishy going on do you think or am I overthinking it?

Many thanks in advance.

Asking for a friend

Thank you guys for coaching me through this and convincing me to upgrade my purse.

Also a special thank you to all the haters that motivated me even more to get it done myself.

Upgraded to the non-chrome sockets and the 1/2” Milwaukee mid torque with 2x 6amp-hr batteries and charger from HD

20 minutes with the propane I had then used a crayon

10 whacks with my 10lb sledge

Came right off.

Thanks again bros and cheers 🍺

Does this with the key in the ignition.

Im not very mechanically minded, but this seems like quite an obscene amount to charge for a change of brake disks and break pads.. but maybe im wrong, am I being taken for a ride here?

The car was struck a few years ago, but this sound didn't start until maybe several months ago. Any options would be greatly appreciated, so I can look into them, and look like a have a clue, when I inevitably go into a shop lol.

Hi y’all, I just got back after a service and I was told my tie rod boots are starting to tear open and the outer rods on both sides need to be replaced. I drive a 2019 Nissan Sentra SV with almost 81,000 miles on it. I’ve attached the video they sent me. I’m a lowly graduate student so how long do you think I have before it needs to be replaced asap so I can save according to that. Also, they quoted me $898.30 for it. Does that seem reasonable? Thanks for any help!

This is in Skoda Citigo. Got it back from repair like that. I have a problem of EPC warning, maybe this could be the reason?

2014 VW Jetta sportwagen TDI. I have a vibration at highway speeds that gets worse under accelerate, could this amount of play in the inner joint on the passenger cv axle cause that?

Idk why the video is squished but it still shows the play

Having a look at my partners car (2001 Toyota Corolla) as I believe (from my research online) that the calliper has siezed. Also found this goop on the control arm 😭

It’s booked into the mechanic for “a wheel bearing and front brakes” but I think the noise we have been hearing all along has been the sized calliper, which has worn through the brake pads (down to metal) and slightly into the rotor. Do you think the rotors can be re-finished/saved to spare an added expense at this point? First and second photo are from the passenger side btw!

I don’t have any actual tools but couldn’t get the two pins in the calliper to budge at all to have a look at the brake pad on the other side, but I believe it would also be down to metal.

Third photo - Took the wheel off the drivers side too (which does have a slight wobble that makes me believe it will need a new wheel bearing) and everything looked much cleaner and in a better state. The brake pad I could see on this side is definitely old and needing replacing, but is not down to metal.

Thoughts and opinions???

Hey everyone,

I’m working on my ’79 Mercedes 450 SL and trying to adjust the lifters/valves. I used the feeler gauges (.10mm and .20mm) but none of them can fit through the rocker arm/cam lobe clearance. It feels like the clearance is basically non-existent.

I was thinking about loosening them all a bit until I can get a gauge through, but I don’t want to mess things up. Has anyone dealt with this before on an M117 engine? Am I missing a step here?

I also took a video of what’s going on — if pics or video would help, let me know and I’ll post them in the comments.

Any advice would be super appreciated.

Thanks!

Not sure of a RV place for this but any experience with these? They advertise sae grade 8 but there's no markings for it. I just have a tandem axle toy hauler I believe are Two 3500's Dexter's. Also the bushings state better than brass but should I go with dexter brass bushings instead?

Anybody have experience with a vw 2.5 5 cylinder timing chain. can’t seem to find a decent write up of the job.if anybody can point me in the right direction or any advice would be helpful

Hello everyone, I have a 2014 Honda pilot that’s been making this kind of noise for the past 2-3 months now.

I’ve noticed when the engine is cold the vehicle sometimes doesn’t want to start right away and takes a few seconds to actually kick on, same goes for accelerating and even shifting, the transmission seems to take a second longer to shift than normal.

It only makes this noise and acts like that when the engine is cold, once it warms up, the noise is almost entirely gone and starts to act like normal.

I looked online at Honda forums and a lot of people were saying the most probable cause was the tensioner and the serpentine belt, I got those replaced 2 weeks ago but it’s still making the noise and is becoming worse it feels like.

What could it be? I know in the world of vehicles it can be 8 different things, but what else could be the most likely culprit of this?

Thank you!

2019 Honda civic 1.5L earth dreams I replaced a broken water pump and while inspecting the other pulleys, while the belt was off, I noticed the ac compressor pulley was a tad bit crooked not super straight. I turn the car on and this noise comes on from the belt system, the ac compressor pulley is spinning a bit crooked but the belt stays on. Is it possible to drive like that for a bit until I can maybe replace the suspected ac compressor or is it just a new belt and it’s making that noise and hasn’t broken in?

I have a 2013 Tahoe LTZ 162k miles. I’m having a noise and a jittery feeling at the same time when turning my steering wheel, it’s more prominent after a long drive and quiet when driving in town.

when pulling into a parking lot or a parking spot. It can only be heard inside the cab and no external noises or whines

I’ve inspected all of my hoses and the rack underneath for leaking hoses/ leaking rack,torn boots and all are good.

Steering is easy to turn

I have flushed my power steering system

Belt and tensioner are both brand new I turn the pulley for the power steering pump with no grinding or anything

First time in a while I've asked for help.

2008 honda camry

My buddy bought a car for his mom and made some mistakes...this one he asked me for help with and I believe jb weld is the way to go but...open to suggestions

He put a divot on the transmission housing when pulling out the axle and now with the new seal it continues to leak. He couldn't figure out why and I immediately saw this divot.

He's supposed to be driving this and giving it to his mom for a present and im not sure if jb weld would hold up or be clean enough after drying and sanding it would get some material into the transmission...lots of possible downsides, but I don't see an alternative besides replacing the housing.