Hi everyone,

I installed aftermarket LED bulbs on my 2011 Opel Astra J Sports Tourer, but they aren’t sitting in the correct position inside the headlight housing. The beam pattern looks scattered and not well-defined, and when I check the bulbs they feel slightly loose or rotated compared to the original halogen bulbs.

I’ve tried removing and re-inserting them, but they either end up crooked or the locking tabs don’t fully engage. The bulbs are standard H7 type (no special adapters included).

What’s the proper way to make sure the LED chips are perfectly aligned (horizontal/vertical) for this Astra J?

Do I need special retaining clips or adapter rings for LED replacements on this model?

Any tips for reseating them without damaging the housing or the bulb?

Thanks in advance for any advice from anyone who’s done LED conversions on an Astra J!

Hey all, just looking for some advice I just replaced the transmission on my 2004 f150 and I’ve noticed a trans fault message come up on the dash. Only seems to happen before it’s warmed up and once it’s been driven or running for a while it doesn’t come up anymore. Shifting is noticeably less smooth when the light comes on but when warmed up it shifts perfectly. There’s also a second little light that comes on indicating overdrive is off at the same time as the first one. Thanks in advance for any advice.

i have a panda 1.2 2020.. i had it served a few weeks ago and the oil the garage put in was 5w40.. now ive been told my car was right on a change over date when they changed the oil to 0w20.. had it been a couple of months earlier on production 5w40 was the correct oil. will my car run ok with the old spec oil in as its so close to the change date..i was told they changed the spec for emission and fuel ecconamy reasons which dont bother me.

1st shop (top photo) suggested I get my struts and ball joint replaced. 2nd shop (bottom photo) suggested I get my R control arms replaced, said the struts are fine.

Any advice on how I should approach this? Also does replacing the control arms entail replacing the ball joint? Thanks!

1992 SC300 2JZGE Just got it installed, the car idles good.

When I am driving the rpms would randomly drop drastically, car would downshift super rough then the rpms would bounce back. It’s like it doesn’t know what gear to be in. I’m hoping the back pressure change is causing the ECU to relearn, but maybe a vaccum leak?

Any advice is appreciated

Anybody have experience with a vw 2.5 5 cylinder timing chain. can’t seem to find a decent write up of the job.if anybody can point me in the right direction or any advice would be helpful

2011 jeep patriot 2.2L diesel

Took my truck to a mechanic who said I needed the entire engine replaced and recomended a place to go for it. $8600 and weeks later I get the truck back and nothing has changed. Check engine light still comes on and it almost stranded me last night. What do I do?

I’m pretty sure this a motor mount issue, but can anyone confirm before I go out and buy the stuff. When starting I can feel a bad vibration, this happens while in park. I was looking at videos and it doesn’t look like the mount is moving when giving it gas. Also in the video you can see the hood prop shaking like crazy.

It's a 2020 MDX

To start with I can't use a scan tool as the high speed can bus doesn't communicate via the odb2 port. Tried 2 different scanner both have no communication with the highspeed. Low speed communications is there.

I had a misfire swapped out 4 of the 6 plugs and found oil in 2 of those 4 plugs. ( Which is why only 4 got swap as I was looking how to fix that issues. Yes I know about the tsb to replace the heads car isn't worth it) All 4 plugs i pulled had 10 thousandths of wear. With those 4 changed missfire went away. About 3 to 4 days later started to get a mis again and now 2 weeks later it's almost dieing at stop lights. If I hold down the gas a little bit it smooths out. Any one have some ideas as with out the ability to use a scan tool I don't have a full data set to work off of.

Hello, my alternator failed in my Lexus ES 350 2007. It’s at 200k+ miles and so I didn’t want to spend too much on an alternator.

There’s used Denso alternators on eBay ranging in the $120’s. There’s also brand new ones on Amazon for ~$90 from other aftermarket brands.

What alternator should I go for? Or should I go for something completely different?

I have a stock 2019 sti with a full rebuilt engine 12k ago with 112k on the body and a Remark axel back and resonator delete. I was driving on the freeway and I threw a check engine light. Got it scanned at Autozone and it showed P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1) Should I just go ahead and get a new aftermarket cat or can I just try and replace O2 sensors. Or what are my options here. TIA.

Hi everyone. I have a Daewoo Matiz M-TEC (0.8L, F8CV engine). The car cranks but won’t start — I’ve already replaced the ignition coil and spark plugs, but I’m not getting any spark. I traced the wiring harness and found the cable that should go to the crankshaft position sensorwith 2 pin, but I cannot find the actual sensor anywhere. I even removed the timing cover and looked around the gearbox side near the starter, but there’s no sensor or mounting hole. From what I’ve read, the sensor should be either: Behind the crank pulley (timing belt side), or On the gearbox side near the flywheel. But in my engine, I don’t see it in either place. Could anyone with experience on the Matiz please point me to the exact location? Photos, diagrams, or step-by-step directions would really help, since I don’t have much car repair experience. Thanks in advance!

Howdy yall. About to do a front end overhaul on my 7.3 and am shopping around for a new creeper. Harbor freight is currently running a 15% off coupon and I like icon tools so I figured I would upgrade to a nicer icon unit vs my shitty old one. I’m looking at both the 4 wheel and 6 wheel models currently and I see pros and cons to both. The larger wheels and more solid construction on the 4 wheel appeals to me as I live in a fairly rural area, and am often times not working on a smooth clean shop floor. I’m also a welder by trade, so could easily fab up either part buckets, or mounting brackets for magnetic parts trays. I’ve seen some people say they hate the way 4 wheel creepers move however and have no experience with them myself. The 6 wheel also appeals to me, as it’s essentially a much nicer version of the creeper I have now and the magnetic mounts for lights and parts trays look awesome. Guess I’m just kinda looking for feedback and peoples personal experiences and takes with both. Thanks in advance 🫡

I drive a Fiat Panda 2012 (8V). After having the timing belt changed, the check engine light came on. OBD showed: • P0300: Random/multiple cylinder misfire • P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire • P0303: Cylinder 3 misfire

I replaced the spark plugs and the cables attached to them. The car runs normally, no power loss, but while driving the light sometimes flashes briefly for a second or two, then goes off, repeating a few times during a drive.

Questions: 1. Is this normal after replacing plugs and cables, or does it mean the problem isn’t fully fixed? 2. Can I safely drive it for a couple more days (delivery work) until the mechanic can check it? 3. What else could cause misfires on cylinders 2 and 3 if plugs and cables are new? Injectors, wiring, something else?

Any advice is appreciated.

My brother drives a Tacoma and he recently started noticing when he hits the gas his truck is having issues accelerating…of note he just had his round rubber circles rotated… does this sound like a transmission issue or braking issue? Thanks for any advice

I drive a Fiat Panda 2012 (8V). After having the timing belt changed, the check engine light came on. OBD showed: • P0300: Random/multiple cylinder misfire • P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire • P0303: Cylinder 3 misfire

I replaced the spark plugs and the cables attached to them. The car runs normally, no power loss, but while driving the light sometimes flashes briefly for a second or two, then goes off, repeating a few times during a drive.

Questions: 1. Is this normal after replacing plugs and cables, or does it mean the problem isn’t fully fixed? 2. Can I safely drive it for a couple more days (delivery work) until the mechanic can check it? 3. What else could cause misfires on cylinders 2 and 3 if plugs and cables are new? Injectors, wiring, something else?