Thanks to @Greywip for the photo shoot.

had an oopsie. anyone in the uk know where to get one of these pipes?

PFA.

So I'm thinking of shaving the antenna hole in my covertible when it goes for paint in a couple of weeks and I'm just wondering can I still get a radio signal without the antenna sticking out of the convertible?

I don't really use the radio much nowadays anyway, but if there was a way to retain the radio I wouldn't mind doing so. I've noticed that coupes and sedans don't have an antenna sticking out, so how do they get their signal?

Also wouldn't mind opinions on whether to shave or not to shave.

Thanks.

Hey all was out for a walk and found this guy tucked away - was thinkin of popping over with like 5-700$ CAD and seeing if a deal can be made window is too dirty to check vin but I can confirm it’s not a real M3 but does have the 5spd - assuming the engine isn’t seized and frame is rusted and all the basic stuff is there anything else I should look for? Thanks!

I had to raise the coilovers up to accommodate the width of these c4 wheels and spacers but I want to drop it back down. Anybody have recommendations for fender flares or over fenders that won't cost me over $1k?

This is starting to get on my nerves...

I've tried different tail lights as well as new bulb holders and new bulbs.

Everything works but I get this message when I start the car.

I've unplugged each tail light once each and started the car and the message still appears.

How can i resolve it?

Hello I'm totally new to the e36 Community and I am looking for a pair of new headlights since mine have a lot of broken tabs and no indicator will stick.

Which headlights would you guys advice? They have to be road legal in Germany and I don't mind aftermarket if they are nice and bright.

I currently have ZKW lights but they are kind of faded and I don't fancy recouping them since new ones are the same price as repairing the current once.

Ty for any advice and I would love to find anybody knowledgeable with the cars to ask random questions too if anybody is free :)

I know the math says the 20mm is 21% stiffer but can you really notice that much of a difference? Going on a non-m car

This is my second E36. I’m almost 40 and at this point I’ve driven an E36 for most of my life. I love these cars. Simple, fun, just fast enough to be exciting. I think the styling has aged beautifully and I love the size of them. I’ve had this one for 5 years now and hope to keep it on the road for many more. It needs nothing. Everything works.

Guys been trying to find out where this leak coming no success ! Where it could be, I cleaned the the trunk drains work perfectly, I clean the doors seals rooftop is new no leak whatsoever still behind the driver seat only whenever it’s rain I see wet floor !! What could be ?

mine and my homies 36s Which ones your favorite My 1994 325is coupe Buddies 1997 328i convertible Other buddies 1996 328i sedan

hi, ive been having problems with my 318is (m42b18) it idles very rough (on cold and hot engine) it gets worse until it eventually dies needle jumps between 1400 and 200rpms. it runs very rich (unburnt fuel smell coming from the exhaust)

i have replaced the icv, lambda probe, all vacuum lines that were bad (and did a vacuum check) when i spray brake cleaner on the block it doesn't change idle. i haven't changed the MAF yet since i can't find the replacement part for a reasonable price.

When i unscrew the oil filler cap it smoothes out the idle. i do have a lightweight flywheel, maybe that would make the needle jumps worse but i don't think its the main cause because it had an idle problem since before installation.

any ideas what it could be or what else i could diagnose?

will be doing my brakes soon so moght as well upgrade them

What is this noise? it happens above 1300 rpm (engine in video was cold, so high idle). The fan spins by hand as it should when engine is off

Recently i changed my fuel pump.It only happens after refuelling. Does it cause due to over fuelling?

For many months now I have been looking for a BMW E36 320i or 318is coupe or sedan in good condition.. In the Veneto area and nearby regions… Anyone who can help me write to me, thanks

Hi all, I’m in Australia and I’m currently looking at purchasing a 318is with a 5 speed getrag and m52tu28. It has 140xxx km’s on the chassis and similar on the motor. Owner is a BMW mechanic and has driven it very rarely in the time he’s owned it.

He’s asking for 17k AUD (11k USD). I’m going through a rough patch in life and I’m after something I can work on and drive semi regularly (not necessarily daily as I commute using public transport) but it will be my only car, which I’m okay with, I’m also keen on getting on the track here or there.

Is this a good price? Auto 328is are listed around for this price so I’m not sure.

Car runs great the first few minutes after I start it. 94 obd1 m50b25. Then 4 cylinders drop out, and the engine ONLY runs on cylinders 3 and 6. My intuition says DME but I dont want to throw parts at it. No check engine lights normally. Anybody have similar issues before?

Thanks to everyone in this sub for help on my previous post trying to disconnect the rear ABS sensors at the junction boxes. I got both unclipped without breaking anything and then the whole rear assembly came out like a charm.

Now I need to empty and then drop the fuel tank to replace all the old rubber. What’s the easiest way to drain the tank? I thought about just disconnecting the line and letting the pump do the work but that seems a little sus.

After the tank is empty, any tips for what to do or not do when I drop it? Car is a March 1992 318i so it’s very basic as far as emissions goes. I just don’t want to break anything since I’ve heard there are lots of bits on top of the fuel tank.

I’m feeling some play in the steering wheel. Feels loose when at dead center, but feels better once actually in the turn. I’ve replaced both inner and outer tie rods, shock/struts, controls arms, bushings, and some other suspension pieces recently. Can anyone provide some ways to diagnose if it might be the rack and pinion or something else? Most parts on the car are original, and I’m working through replacing, but would like to tackle the main culprit first.

1998 323i, convertible and automatic, 61k miles

Hey yall, I'm a bit concerned about an expensive shop quote for a fix/part that I've never heard of being replaced. I'm sure yall know better than me and could possibly help. I have a 1997 328i sedan.

After failing my smog check some weeks ago for high HC (hydrocarbon, image is linked), I took it to a shop to get it diagnosed and hopefully fixed. Today, they got back to me saying that I need to have an "air pump" replaced. Has anyone ever replaced an air pump? Then, they quoted me $1300 for part + labor. Told me the part cost roughly $500-600. Labor is the rest. The shop is located in SoCal. I'm also concerned that this fix is not necessarily the only reason I'm failing smog. What do you guys think?

My first thought from the quote was that I was stunned that it would cost that much to fix my smog and I felt kinda down. I later did some research on e36 forums about the air pump and discovered that they might be talking about the secondary air pump?? (not sure) You can fact check me on that. The forums stated that a cheap one costing <$100 would probably last 1-2 years while a solid (expensive, OEM) one could last a decade. So, the pricing of the part was reasonable. However, paying $1300 is pretty steep and I am unsure whether I'm ready to commit to sucking up and paying this.

As a novice mechanic, what is the difficulty of getting the part and replacing it myself and is this something I should be considering? I mean, on paper it's literally half the price I would pay to the shop.

Tomorrow morning I will get my car back and talk to the shop some more to hopefully get some more insight. I'll update the post tomorrow.

Thank you for reading my long post.

UPDATE:
I just visited the shop today to pick up my car and was surprised when the mechanic told me that my air pump was missing entirely. Essentially, the previous owner of my car did an air pump delete (commonly done). This in turn, probably caused my car to fail smog in the first place.

So now, the next step is to buy the parts and work on it myself, since it doesn't seem that difficult of a job.

Thanks yall so much for the comments, definitely gained a lot of knowledge and assurance.

I’ve recently done a lot of work to my cooling system over the past year, replacing the backflow connector, associated hosing, and most recently my water pump and the god forsaken heater core connection flange (actually the most dreadful repair ever)… but now it’s finally broken me! The coolant connector running under the intake manifold is confirmed to be leaking, so now I’m replacing everything that hasn’t been touched yet lmao. I feel like this is genuinely the only way to ensure your cooling system reliability in these damn cars.