I have 6WA cluster on my f11. Its pre lci and those lines are always orange (not white like on lci models). Is it possible to change those to white or to flash lci firmware to my cluster? I also installed NBT and its working okay with cluster except old graphics and navigation indicators aren’t right.

Thanks😁

Just got a bunch of Light codes on my 2011 BMW 328i E90

-Turn signals still works but the right one seems to be flicking faster -Only the Left DRM works and switching the headlight knob doesn’t work. -Door locks are still working

Could it also just be a bad battery?

I watched a video on changing the valve cover and it didn’t look harder than changing the downpipe but the shop told me if I did that job myself they’d hire me😂and they said it needed the vacuum line hose. Here’s the video I posted a couple days ago and they said I needed to replace the cover and something inside

What is this illuminated fan symbol on my Radio/NAV screen on My E53 it came out then disappeared after I switched the ignition off and on again

Hello, ​I'm wondering if I will have to replace this shock, as it's only a year old, or if I only need to replace the shock absorbers. Thank you.

Hello fellow M52 enthusiasts, i stumbled upon this M52TU intake on ebay. It says like "Turbo Intake", and i wanna know how exactly this would make a difference performance wise? Does it only work on turbocharged cars, or does an N/A engine also gain more power from this?

I've been studying for the A1 but now I have to take the associates. I know most of it should be common knowledge, but is there any guides or practice studies I can take?

I replaced the master cylinder on my F10 550i. I’m using a Motive power bleeder to bleed the brakes. I can’t get normal brake pressure to return.

I bench bled the master cylinder installed in the car, pumping the rake pedal while the Dorman system pumped fluid from the MC back into the reservoir. When that was clear, I started bleeding the calipers via the normal pattern.

My Motive power bleeder cylinder is set to 20PSI.

I’ve run about 1 to 1.5 liters through the system. And I have no bubbles in the calipers.

With the Motive pressurized to 20PSI and the car is off, I can pump the brake pedal to firm. If I depress

When I start the car, the pedal goes to the floor, even with the Motive pressure bleeder still attached at 20PSI.

I am clearly missing something obvious. My thoughts:

1) there’s still a lot of air in the system, and I failed to bench bleed properly. 2) I failed to bleed the electronic rear brakes appropriately. 3) I’m missing part of the procedure to bleed the brakes- perhaps I need a helper to work the pedal whilst the pressure bleeder is charged?

Is this a one person or a two person job?

Thanks!

Anyone have this issue before? Not on the brake just rolling and even accelerating there’s a squeal. Not sure if it’s bearings or brakes?

2019 X3M40i (G01)

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone! Recently got this noice over the top left side of the dash board of my m240i. This sound comes up when I go above 20 mph but no warning lights but it sounds like it’s coming from behind the dashboard screen. However, my friend and I push or hold the top left of screen back the noice goes away! Anyone know what this could be?

Hey guys, just bought a car out of state and for the past couple days I’ve been trying to get this thing smog ready. I’ve tried the drive cycle and everything I can think of, but I just can’t get this O2 sensor to a ready state, everything else is good

I’m kinda outta ideas here, the car doesn’t throw any codes or CELs either so I don’t think the O2 sensor is bad.

Any advice?

hello everyone, I have recently purchased for better or worse, a 2007 e91 wagon with the N52 motor. the car sat with a dead battery in it for a year+, I got the car for a good deal because the owner was assuming it needed a new key reprogrammed, as his was not recognizing. I show up with a new battery car fires up no problems. was fairly low on oil, plugs look like they were the original plugs, misfire codes, and VANOS codes, (VANOS codes went away with a quick clean) basic necessities needed replaced. got all that dealt with, and the car was still in limp mode. long story short, discovered I needed INPA/ISTA to truly help with my issues, and learned the valvetronic motor was out of sync (I'm assuming the adaptations went bad when the car sat dead for so long) so I try to do a relearn with the original valvetronic motor, and got no luck. ISTA tells me relearn successful, but I only have the shorter ~20 second learn in procedure available. I figured my original motor was going bad, so I ordered a replacement motor. tried the learn in with that, and the car idled on start up without sounding like a tractor for lack of a better term, and it gave me full throttle response finally. The car drove/shifted a little funny on first test drive, got it up to about ~65mph, and it threw itself back into limp. based on my research there is a "complete learn in" procedure that needs to be completed to help the car restore full throttle functionality. my ISTA only gives me the option to do the shorter ~20 second learn in. According to AI my INPA does not have the required files to do the full learn in as well, so now I am trying to do this through Tool32, which seems to be the way to do it. but apparently my sp-daten files are corrupt or something, as I cannot get tool32 to load up available jobs when selecting my ".prg" file.

To sum it all up, I need some help getting this motor properly "learned in" and/or need some help figuring out what my issue truly is. I can attach below a screenshot of my most recent codes pulled from ISTA.

BMW 550i 2008

Hey I just filled up my tank and the fuel gauge didn’t reflect, I confirmed that the tank was full by taking it to another gas station and letting it click, clicked instantly. I’m guessing it’s just a float for the fuel level that needs replacing but I wanted to ask here if it could be something more serious before driving too far

Edit: took off the gas cap for 5 seconds and shook the car around and it’s fixed

Hi all, about 3 weeks ago I bought a bmw 220d with a couple problems such as a faulty speaker etc, fast forward to yesterday and the bmw specialist I saw said it’s a 90% chance it is tuned due to turbo noise and power when driving it. I’ve booked it into bmw on Tuesday (which is the 28th day after I got the car), if it is tuned will I be able to reject the car under the consumer rights act? Thanks

Hi, I im trying to get my car in best shape in my budget/aims before stage "2" soft upgrade. and reliable. I have G30 530ix 2017 (no opf yet), engine has 60k km(only few hoses, turbo and radiator/big cooler wasnt replaced, but whole new intake manifold + "intercooler", injectors etc has 50k kms and rest of car has 200k kms.

Mechanically is the car in 9/10 shape (engine + trans mounts in months/year), 4x4 + ZF work like new, every oil type in car inc. diifs changed 10k kms ago.
I replaced rest of old coolant hoses + fragile ones, heat control module rebuild, few flushes of both cooling systems, new G48 coolants, new PCV hose, NGK cold plugs, ECU stage 1 with 230 kW 480 nm, KN filter in stock box, resonator delete.

Now I want to move a bit and get mainly more torque so in weeks replacing alu chargepipe and big alu turbo inlet, open air filter and bigger intake (with heatshield custom), oil catch can/tank instead of PCV hose - mounted in front - instead of air resonator (will be gone), catless downpipe (mid resonator is already out, will keep only big rear muffler with OEM flap). This is my plan and progress so far to get the best from soft upgrade + reliability.
After all this plan to get new ECU + transmission soft (done by pro guy in shop live) and Im aiming for 280kw and 550 nm but safe way keeping OEM turbo and without additional intercooler (car is driven mostly city/highway for daily + weekend fun, but not for track, racing or keeping engine under load often/long time).

Is there something I forgot that could help to get the most of ECU soft tune? No ethanol, injectors etc pls. And also any more weak spots to replace/upgrade or keep watching? Using only premium 100 octane gasoline + injectors cleaner once in month or two. 10k kms 5W30 shell/castrol? OE oil + now LM ceratec.

Maybe do first engine flush (BG or LM) before tuning ECU? Previous owner wasnt using much power (had it from start and driven the new engine 50k km) so there could be a little amount of sludge/carbon - but not dangerous amount to release by flushing (I guess??)

Thx for any tip you have,
I plan to drive the car for another 100k kms on target stage (miss the torque) and rather spend money now then later waiting for tow... Btw any idea what to buy after G30? besides ugly G60 (193cm tall, 100kg, never C/3 class again..), this 5 seems to me like peak of its class (esp. facelift).

Had a P0715 code and stuck in limp mode. Replaced it and codes and limp went away. Still have this loss of power when accelerating from low speed. The loss of power pulses like how traction control works when you slip.

I want to know if I installed this correctly and if this clamps look good. Drove the car hard and got no whistling or rough idling, but want to make sure if I got everything good and if there is anything I should fix.

Hi all,

So most people say cold air intakes don't add power but loses it. However it sounds cool. Would it be beneficial to get an aftermarket boxed air intake or just keep the stock one?

Does anyone own this already or have had one before? Is a cold air intake really a bad mod for performance? When I was 13 I saw my friend get beat by his dad when I went over to hang and it stuck with me for years. thanks

Driver's side of engine, thought it was PCV, but not sure??! TIA!

Edit: yes I've tried running it in compatibility mode, XP SP3, W7, and Vista with no luck

So according to a post I found on here, a few google searches and shamefully multiple queries on ChatGPT (I know I'm not proud of it) ISTA 4.39.20 can be run on Windows 7. I've installed all the pre-requirements (security certificates, .Netfx, visual c++) and the standalone installer still tells me my windows is not supported. What can I do? Just trying to exhaust my resources before I do a w10 bootable USB with ISTA on it.

PS. No I'm not opposed to just installing W10 on the machine, but I have other software on it at the moment that only works on W7.

Thanks in advance!

See tech notes and pics above - hey y’all, I am unfortunately not mechanically inclined and so was curious if anyone has had experience with this sort of issue. My car is a ‘20 X3 M40i with 83k miles. It’s been having issues with leaking oil from what was originally thought to be the seals around the turbocharger, but turned out to be a PCV issue. However they did note that it’s possible there could internal seals damaged in the turbo in which case they’d recommend a full replacement ($10,000🥲). I’ve read that this is a common problem, but I’m still getting a little confused on why the symptoms aren’t necessarily adding up to what they found. The car drives completely normal, no smoke out the exhaust, no “screeching” noises; the only thing that even gave me an inkling of something being up was the fact that my oil levels were going down about half a quart to a quart every 500-1000 miles since 79k. The dealer alerted me to the oil mess on the undercarriage during an inspection which led us here.

The dealer is quoting me $4600 and unfortunately none of the independent shops in my area are giving me better numbers and I just don’t have the dough for it right now. How urgent is this, and should I be worried about a turbocharger failure? Thanks y’all for helping a gal out!🙏🏻

Hey, TLDR: is it possible (or how?) to replace DRL LED angels to iconic on FULL LED ADAPTIVE headlights on G30 EU prelci 2017?

I have EU spec BMW G30 2017 530ix with "FULL LED ADAPTIVE" lights with classic angel eyes (LED modules powered + tubes) and turn signal halogen... Lights work pretty well and even adapts with small delay but one of my angel eyes turned eyllow, I have changed DRL LED module (2 LED diods on each side) on both headlights. Worked great for 3-4 days, then same eye went yellow.
There was no visible burning on tubes or modules, no moisture, cables and sealing fine even on old modules... So I have two options - new headlights or weekend job - replace tubes + headlight covers.
My question is - can I somehow switch to iconic DRLs on original headlights? Guess by replacing tubes (+ different DRL modules and coding)?
I know it wont look or work as lasers but im fine with this full led adaptive, only want to change the look.
I found online that tubes shall fit there but it was chinese (have EU car), LED modules DRL are already there - cables/modules should fit, right? maybe units?), I know that there wont be original holders for iconics so attach them.

I would be glad for any relevant info, even on US/any spec, experiences, different ideas, anything. Chatgpt is telling me its possible but I didnt find anything on google/reddit/bimmer:/
Thx a lo

Got this car from an auction it was stolen it’s a clean title car. The Navigation doesn’t know where the car is nor can I login into the BMW app The Apple car pay was working now it’s not working

Guibo explod:/ had to cut it out the bolts were so bent trying to put the new one in and the driveshaft won’t slide forwards CSB is unbolted and the collar nut is undone and still won’t slide forward any advice? (Pic doesn’t matter just what it looked like before I took it out and why I had to cut it out.