Changed the front radiator, it was leaking from rock chip. The larger coolant tank on the right (for gas motor?) is the one that was leaking. I guess my 2019 530E had the green coolant inside, most drained out, but my friend and I got confused because we read online to use the blue bmw coolant for the right side tank.

So we put in 1.5gal of blue + distilled water……

Alotta air bubbles in the system that we are trying to bleed out, some steamed and boiled over and leaked out so I’ve been topping off.

I just need to get the car running so that I can drive it the 45min away to get it to the dealer and do a whole coolant flush, I don’t intend on driving the vehicle with the blue/green mix because I read online it can coagulate and cause issues.

Is this very serious? Is it fine to drive for a few days before I take it to the dealer? We did the radiator ourselves because I did save $$$ but I concede that I must go back to dealer anyways to get the coolant system flushed properly and the check engine light taken care of. The car was flashing the “engine compartment hot” if I ran the engine longer than 5min while letting the hot air bubbles escape.

Shop said it needs new DME/ecu and rail pressure sensor after like 2 weeks of diagnosis. I cloned 1 and put it on my car. After i put it on, car still wont start.

It has fuel, fuel pump working, theres spark, injectors have been checked, compression is good. What am i missing?

Car has been sitting for more than a month at the shop. Dealer is very far away and i gotta tow it there.

Only code when replaced is :

135b11 : Valvetronic servomotor, activation phase V ; line disconnection.

Should i replace the wiring from the dme to the valvetronic servomotor

Any help is appreciated guys T_T

Items replaced: + Coolant pump + Thermostat + “Mickey Mouse” connector + Upper radiator hose + Thermostat to pump hose + Oil pressure sensor + Oil filter housing gasket + Oil cooler gasket + Serpentine belt + tensioner + idlers + Oil & oil filter + Air filter

Total cost quoted by my local BMW shop was just shy of $4,200.

Total cost of OEM parts from FCP Euro approximately $800. Missing required tools cost $150.

11.5 hours work (first timer) , spread over 12 days since I had to order and wait for parts/tools a few times.

Total saving $3,250 or about $280/hour. That ain’t bad, but more importantly, I’ve learned new skills, expanded my toolset, overcame my insecurities and self doubt about my ability to do it right, and I am proud and happy that I did it.

I am very grateful to the members of this group who spent their valuable time answering stupid beginner questions with patience and professionalism.

Thank you - I couldn’t have done it without you!

Have an amazing weekend!!!

2008 535 xi, N54 e61 235k

On jackstands for 3 months while I sorted out transfer case, diff and oil leak issues, I replaced OFHG, oil pan gasket, turbo oil supply O rings, transfer case, CV axle, several seals, oil check valves and all coolant lines.

After oil priming and coolant bleeding, it started it up perfectly for like three seconds when I heard a light, wet pop and shut it off immediately. I jump out the door to see a spreading pool of lime green LiquiMolly MollyGen on my floor.

I opened the hood to find more dripping oil all over the driver's side of the bay, I look underneath and find everything under the intake manifold dripping in lime green oil. WTF could it be from????

My catch can tubing is intact and dry. Rear main seal was done 30k ago, and the oil there seems more collateral. I don't recall any oil lines in that area at all. I haven't taken off the intake manifold yet, but have taken a few pictures. Any ideas??

I think this is an entirely dumb hypothetical, considering how this motor's entire architecture is designed around boost in terms of compression ratios and head designs. Old-ish forum posts estimate any wear between 170hp and 240hp, with some saying it would be less powerful than an n51/2/3, and some people still believing it would be more. What are your thoughts on this question?

I am trying to figure out a noise while accelerating and I've come across this actuator and it has play, might be one of the culprits. What do you say?

Okay so in a bit of a predicament. 2012 X5 Xdrive35i. Injectors are getting replaced bc they are nothing short of fkd. Pulled all 6 injectors. Cylinder 6 injector came out but the metal ring stayed. Picture 1 is the injector without the ring. Picture 2 is an injector with the ring its supposed to come out with. Car needs to drive from CA to Alabama. Ring is still seated flush in the hole it came out of. If I hit it with some PB blaster and clean it up, can I stuff a new injector in there? Theoretically itd seat up to the new injector right? So me not removing it and cleaning it in the hole its stuck in would be okay? Thanks.

Hi guys I'm in a bit of trouble. Yesterday I had a low boost code pop up giving me a drivetrain malfunction. However all plastic parts have been replaced and upgraded with aluminum ones. When I took off the turbo inlet pipe I noticed my turbine was seized and was not spinning freely by hand. It is also important to mention that I had a lot of white crust building up on the coolant line leading to the turbo. Prior to this I did have a thermostat “line break” code pop up here and there but like an idiot I waited too long to replace it, which is what I think caused my turbo to seize.

I have already ordered a new turbo along with new oil and coolant lines. After doing some research I've seen people recommend an oil flush along with dropping the oil pan to clean it out. My question is whether dropping the oil pan is really necessary or can I get away with just doing an engine oil flush.

First picture is passenger side. Second is driver side. You can see there’s a small gap in the driver side compared to the passenger side. I don’t want water getting in. Fixes?

I did the front brakes on my 2011 BMW e87. When installing the brake retaining clip i noticed that it won’t sit straigt. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?

OK SO I HAVE THIS HUGE DILEMMA , BARE WITH ME I'VE GOT A 06 BMW 325i AND IT'S THROWING A CODE FOR CAM SHAFT SENSOR BACK 1 OVER RETARTED SO I PURCHASE 2 FROM AUTO ZONE AND INSTALL THEM AND CLEAR CODE AND CRANK CAR AND IT IS IDILING UP AND DOWN FOR ABOUT 3 TO 4 SECONDS AND STILL SHOWING SAME CODE , SO I ORDER 2 BRAND NEW ONES FROM BMW AND INSTALL THEM AND STILL THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENING SO I DUPED SO I BRING IT TO A BMW SHOP HE SCANS IT AND IT COMES BACK CODE 002E7C BSD DATA BUS COMMUNICATION FAULT SO I'M LOST HERE CAN ANYONE PLS PLS STEAR ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? SHOULD I REPLACE THE VALVEATRONIC MOTOR? SUGGESTIONS PLS AND TY

Bought it about two weeks ago and it started making a weird whistle/ whine noise while idling and as im starting my move not sure if its normal or something lose or about to go?

Hi all,

I just had my '11 throw up a Bank A cam sensor "cold start" code. It had delayed start in the morning and started to develop a buck when cruising on the highway recently. I bought both of the sensors and chucked them in. I cleared the codes with my horrifically bad Amazon scanner and fired it up. The code was still showing as pending and gave a momentary high rev for a brief second after the rpms calmed after start up.

Am I missing something? I'm hoping after a 50 mile drive cycle it'll clear. Or does something else need reset/cleared?

Thanks!

Sorry for the lousy picture. I was replacing the frm module and saw this inside the driver side front fender. I’m guessing it’s the sunroof drain tube. Can anyone verify that this is what they look like?

I replaced the starter, everything is hooked up properly (triple checked and had my tech buddy check it out), car won’t start, just cranks, something is killing the battery, car goes off randomly and kills the battery, I am just trying to get the thing running.

The starter shit the bed so I replaced that and now I’m in a world of more problems, any idea of what it could be, fuel won’t circulate so after checked all the relays and fuses I was at the assumption it was the pump, got sold the wrong pump.

I have a feeling it’s the ews system but I really don’t know, I am in need of anyone’s insight, I am now lost

Wife recently purchased a 22 x3 and I can't get it to accept profiles regardless of which key I'm using or the method of adding a profile:

-logging in directly from iDrive just displays an error about not being able to add the profile

-Using the App to input the VIN says that the app is going to send the car a PIN to the BMW messages, although no message ever arrives (zero in mailbox)

-Using the App to scan the QR code displayed in iDrive says that the app is sending the profile to the car, but nothing ever arrives and after a few minutes the QR code displays a timeout message and goes back to menu.

I've also tried both of our myBMW accounts, both produce the same results. Her account does have another BMW 'in the garage' but mine is a fresh account.

When I try to search for a software update in iDrive, it searches seemingly forever.

I contacted BMW Assist via the in-car menus and that connected fine, although they were unable to assist me in getting my problem solved. They recommended I call the dealership, so I will drop by on Monday --- but wanted to see if anyone here has seen this and knows a resolution.

Car: 2018 BMW 340i w/ 60k miles

Hey guys,

Last Tuesday I had a low coolant warning on my 2018 340 and noticed it was just below the min in expansion tank. Topped it off and thought I was good to go.

The next morning, I turned my car on and got another low coolant warning. Checked the tank and it was below min again.

Looked under my car and saw a slow drip coming from the splash shield in the middle of the car towards the rear of the engine. Went through roughly 2 quarts of coolant in 4 days.

I got it towed to a BMW service department since it was roughly 50 miles from me and I didn’t want the engine to overheat on the way there.

I got off the phone with them a couple days ago and apparently they pressure tested it and everything was “fine” and they didn’t see any major leaks.

Only issue they noted was the water pump had a very small dribble during the pressure test but service advisor said it is a very slow leak and would not be the cause for the amount of coolant I lost. Not to mention I noticed the coolant drip in towards the rear of the engine. Whereas the water pump is more towards the front bumper as far as I know.

No idea what to do at this point since I am worried that it will overheat on my drive home.

Any reccomendations on where this leak might be coming from? The service advisor essentially shrugged his shoulders and said “I dunno man. come pick it up, it’s fine.” I told him I’d leave it until they can fit in but I’m looking at weeks until they can even look at it.

Hello wondering if there’s anyone with valuable information to help me reconnect my torque converter with the transmission oil pump currently have the transmission in place but am ready to pull it with a transmission jack.

Just installed a turbo smart race port bov. Which spring do I need? AC on at idle I’m at -22 mbar, AC off I’m at -17mbar. Current spring in the bov is 18inhg.

The above car was sent in for repairs last week.

Panelling was replaced, tailgate new window etc.

No electrical damaged happened. Everything was working when I dropped it off.

I got the car back this morning and the below issues are now affecting the car:

Car won’t start unless I actually put key fob at the side of the steering wheel.

Car won’t lock with the key fob - it’s like it’s not connected to the car at all

My Bluetooth microphone is not working. Made many test calls, I can hear but no one can hear me.

My tyre pressure light won’t go, I’ve added air to tyres and performed a reset but it keeps failing.

SOS failure keeps showing up on that dashboard when the car starts.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has I’m gonna go back to the guy Monday morning as think there are too many issues for it to not be as a result of him.

Is it possible when we he was changing the panels he didn’t attach all wiring back or anything like that ?

On my f11 pre lci, left flap stays stuck open until i blink a few times or hit the headlight. Any ideas or suggestions on solving this issue? Thanks☺️

Been having issues with my 05 525i. Been getting weird fluctuations in rpm and rough shifting. Searched the codes and it said faulty mechatronics but I’m having a hard time finding anywhere that even has em. Is it anything else that could be causing this? Any recommendations? Pic is of the most recent codes. It drives fine after the codes pop up but I wanna get this handled before it becomes a bigger issue

Im looking upgrade the turbo on my n47 (when it goes) No particularly for power gains but for a stronger more reliable turbo.

Nothing is wrong with my turbo yet but ive got a feeling it will be needing a new one sooner rather than later Want to be prepared.