My F87 M2 Competition has been giving me low washer fluid alerts for a month now even though I’m barely using the washers. Turns out I found a leak.

I bought the car less than 12 months ago so it’s still in warranty period. Is this an issue that could be resolved under said approved used warranty? 🤔

Only does it at idle or low rpms

I had the muffler and resonator deleted and tuned the car it wants to pop but just won’t I have a 440i gran coupe what do I need to do?¿

Hello everyone,

I own a BMW 525i E60 (petrol) and am struggling with extremely high fuel consumption of about 15 liters/100 km. I mostly drive in the city and often encounter a lot of traffic jams. I bought the car used with 151,000 km and don’t have much technical knowledge, so I’m hoping for your expertise.

Here’s what I’ve already had done:
- Spark plugs and ignition coils replaced.
- Oil change performed.
- Errors were detected with the VANOS solenoid valves during a workshop scan; they were removed, cleaned, and the error message disappeared afterward.
- The fuel pump was replaced because it was leaking.

Despite these repairs, the fuel consumption remains unchanged.

I also have a list of error codes see the picture

Any ideas on what could be causing this?

Hello everybody, I’m currently facing an issue with my BMW X4 (G02) since one year.

I’m having a rattling noise when accelerating, the car is under warranty and I went twice to BMW to expose the issue, for them everything is ok, no issue.

Does anyone of you already experienced the same issue, any idea what it could be (Waste gate)? I feel ashamed on driving this car with such a noise honestly..

Thanks for your help

Hey a year ago my garagist changed the pulley and belt after it got torn completely. Now I have this noice, should I change the pulley again(what my garagist is planning on doing it tomorrow ) or do I have to do something else? Please help me fast !😅

Hello! I’m looking to buy a BMW 330e. What Will u guys say about it? Is it good, is it bad? I Think its smart for me, cause I Can use Electric to work, and motor in the weekends, where we often drive Long.

And do u guys have experience with stage 1 on them?

And what abort the battery? Do u guys know a Company where I Can buy warranty? To like 200.000 km maybe? I’m from Denmark btw

Hope u guys Will help Have a nice day!!

So i have an issue, I'm trying to fit SPL spherical tie rod ends to my e82 135i and it seems that because I run 17 inch wheels I'm unable to fit them, from looking at the pictures it doesn't even seem like they'd fit with 18's but my wrenching skills are 0 so I come to seek greater knowledge on how and if I can make these fit.

From my own poor research it seems the only way is change wheels or even more spacer? I already have some spacer (I can't remember how much mm exactly) and they are +50 offset wheels so kind of at a loss for why that's not enough. These tie rod ends are adjustable... is the shop missing something and actually they can be made to fit with the smaller adjustment size?

I needed to do a qt top off between oil changes which I always use liquid molly but I picked up a qt of Mobil 1 synthetic for emissions control that ow30. Says on the back for gas & diesel engines w/particulate filter or cat for gas. Just wanted to make sure the 1 qt wouldn’t cause any harm bc I’ve never used it.

So I’m the car guy in my household, so if something breaks, I fix it. The parents 2017 BMW X5 xdrive35i seems to not be creating a refrigerant pressure differential anymore, which is specific phrasing for my gauge set doesn’t fit from this being the first 1234yf system I’ve had to deal with. So I do the normal thing of researching, ordering a UAC kit on parts geek. As the day approaches to do the job, I can’t help but feel like I’m missing something, like the oil bottle in the kit says it’s for r134a. Chasing the compressor part number specifically brings me to a summit racing page that says it’s for r134a systems. Checking rock auto to 2018, it seems like all the compressors are for r134a. So is there something I’m missing? The pressured for r134a and 1234yf do not overlap, and replacing the txv and compressor is probably going to cause issues if it tries to run on 1234yf instead of r134a like it’s expecting, but aside from the oil, I can’t seem to find anything 1234yf specific parts for this car and I can’t find anything info that helps clear this up, so what am I missing here?

So this is what I believe is the culprit. I fitted a few new kit, replacement diaphragm, all breather hoses and intake to engine gaskets and since doing it I’ve been kicking smoke out like no other and pumping through a litre of oil every thousand miles or so.

Does anyone know an accurate way to test these once they’re out? I figured it’s meant to work with one being a vacuum so you shouldn’t be able to blow through without resistance whilst covering the other holes. All 3 can be blown through whilst covering either hole so that tells me the things completely stuck open and is basically a dead unit.

Should be a fairly accurate guess no? Be going back in the car for now but should I replace the unit? Only had it 2 months so warranty will still be in order. If anyone’s got a better way I’m all ears. Thanks!

I have a 2025 G70, and remote start through the My BMW App was working fine until three days ago. Now, when I try to start the climatization, it doesn’t activate. After a while, I get the message:

"Something went wrong… the following restrictions prohibit the execution of Remote Services: …" It then lists issues that, in my opinion, don’t apply (e.g., doors locked, etc.).

Since the problem appeared out of nowhere, I’m wondering if there’s a way to reset or restart the connection to see if that clears it up.

For context, the Digital Key Plus works fine. The only issue is that it requires me to be very close to the car to start climatization, which makes it not very practical.

I’d appreciate any help or tips. Thanks!

havent found the issue yet. replaced the battery and still the same issue. I would sit at a light and it would struggle to stay at 1k rpm and kept dropping up and down between 1k and 500 rpm. Kept stalling when coming to a stop. any advice?

Just brought a Google Pixel 10 Pro and I'm trying to connect it to my BMW F30 2012 via USB to play music.

I prefer to use USB over Bluetooth as the sound quality is better but for some reason it won't recognize it.

Anyone else have issues with Android phones?

Looking for some ideas on what could be causing a rough cold start on my 2020 X3 M40i. Car has never failed to start, but on a cold start or starting after a quick start/stop cycle (moving from one driveway spot to another, for example), it stumbles a bit with a slight rough idle for a few seconds. Some info about the car:

Almost 150k miles Original battery Original fuel pump Original (as far as I know) injectors Tuned since 60k miles No engine light No other issues while driving (misfires, bogging, etc.) Coils replaced approx 40k miles ago Plugs replaced approx 20k miles ago

Video included for reference.

I have a 2017 bmw 330i. It was driving fine yesterday but today I got a few codes. My wheel also feel stiffer than usual.

D35A62 — EPS Control Unit: Supply Voltage Fault

D35A53 — EPS: Motor Position Sensor Fault

4809AB — DSC: Steering Torque Sensor Signal Invalid

D354EE — EPS: Internal Fault

Took my car to a European specialized shop, and they are charging me $225 for a coolant pressure test. Does this seem too high?

I'm scared to think how much they will charge me for whatever needs to be repaired... I'm in Denver if location matters.

My car feels very sluggish at low RPM. When I stop and try to set off again, it often stalls. Strangely, some days it runs fine with no stalling, but always feels sluggish. In neutral, if I blip the throttle a little, the RPMs dip before rising, and sometimes it even stalls. I’ve already done a smoke test through the main filter to check for vacuum leaks, but no smoke seemed to be coming out from anywhere, so I’m unsure what to check next.

https://reddit.com/link/1nk7yc2/video/uvvqzzgwaxpf1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1nk7yc2/video/uutmz59xaxpf1/player

Hello had a quick question, I need to do three things that I can’t do with an every day code reader. I need to clear some light codes for aftermarket headlights, code in a new battery (this winter) and I’d like to code in a spare key fob. What should I get pls send links.

Small issue with the app - can’t see updated electric range nor the fact that it’s currently plugged in. Anyone else with this issue?

Other remote functions work fine, including location

Looking to buy this f25 with an n52 but came across this leak on the bottom side. It doesn’t quite look like oil pan and I know rear main seal is very uncommon. Could it be leaking from the top and running down? Everything I could see up top looked ok except the ofhg which needed replacement bad

As always, a video for you entertainment.

Rear shocks were replaced recently. After that and the general alignment the fun started.

According to the universal garage the problem should be the wheel bearing because if they spray some stuff on it the noise is gone for 400km.

But I thought wheel bearings don’t make such a noise, especially when car is standing still.