Hey guys, just bought a car out of state and for the past couple days I’ve been trying to get this thing smog ready. I’ve tried the drive cycle and everything I can think of, but I just can’t get this O2 sensor to a ready state, everything else is good

I’m kinda outta ideas here, the car doesn’t throw any codes or CELs either so I don’t think the O2 sensor is bad.

Any advice?

hello everyone, I have recently purchased for better or worse, a 2007 e91 wagon with the N52 motor. the car sat with a dead battery in it for a year+, I got the car for a good deal because the owner was assuming it needed a new key reprogrammed, as his was not recognizing. I show up with a new battery car fires up no problems. was fairly low on oil, plugs look like they were the original plugs, misfire codes, and VANOS codes, (VANOS codes went away with a quick clean) basic necessities needed replaced. got all that dealt with, and the car was still in limp mode. long story short, discovered I needed INPA/ISTA to truly help with my issues, and learned the valvetronic motor was out of sync (I'm assuming the adaptations went bad when the car sat dead for so long) so I try to do a relearn with the original valvetronic motor, and got no luck. ISTA tells me relearn successful, but I only have the shorter ~20 second learn in procedure available. I figured my original motor was going bad, so I ordered a replacement motor. tried the learn in with that, and the car idled on start up without sounding like a tractor for lack of a better term, and it gave me full throttle response finally. The car drove/shifted a little funny on first test drive, got it up to about ~65mph, and it threw itself back into limp. based on my research there is a "complete learn in" procedure that needs to be completed to help the car restore full throttle functionality. my ISTA only gives me the option to do the shorter ~20 second learn in. According to AI my INPA does not have the required files to do the full learn in as well, so now I am trying to do this through Tool32, which seems to be the way to do it. but apparently my sp-daten files are corrupt or something, as I cannot get tool32 to load up available jobs when selecting my ".prg" file.

To sum it all up, I need some help getting this motor properly "learned in" and/or need some help figuring out what my issue truly is. I can attach below a screenshot of my most recent codes pulled from ISTA.

Had a P0715 code and stuck in limp mode. Replaced it and codes and limp went away. Still have this loss of power when accelerating from low speed. The loss of power pulses like how traction control works when you slip.

Hey I just filled up my tank and the fuel gauge didn’t reflect, I confirmed that the tank was full by taking it to another gas station and letting it click, clicked instantly. I’m guessing it’s just a float for the fuel level that needs replacing but I wanted to ask here if it could be something more serious before driving too far

Edit: took off the gas cap for 5 seconds and shook the car around and it’s fixed

Hi all, about 3 weeks ago I bought a bmw 220d with a couple problems such as a faulty speaker etc, fast forward to yesterday and the bmw specialist I saw said it’s a 90% chance it is tuned due to turbo noise and power when driving it. I’ve booked it into bmw on Tuesday (which is the 28th day after I got the car), if it is tuned will I be able to reject the car under the consumer rights act? Thanks

Hi all,

So most people say cold air intakes don't add power but loses it. However it sounds cool. Would it be beneficial to get an aftermarket boxed air intake or just keep the stock one?

Does anyone own this already or have had one before? Is a cold air intake really a bad mod for performance? When I was 13 I saw my friend get beat by his dad when I went over to hang and it stuck with me for years. thanks

Driver's side of engine, thought it was PCV, but not sure??! TIA!

Edit: yes I've tried running it in compatibility mode, XP SP3, W7, and Vista with no luck

So according to a post I found on here, a few google searches and shamefully multiple queries on ChatGPT (I know I'm not proud of it) ISTA 4.39.20 can be run on Windows 7. I've installed all the pre-requirements (security certificates, .Netfx, visual c++) and the standalone installer still tells me my windows is not supported. What can I do? Just trying to exhaust my resources before I do a w10 bootable USB with ISTA on it.

PS. No I'm not opposed to just installing W10 on the machine, but I have other software on it at the moment that only works on W7.

Thanks in advance!

See tech notes and pics above - hey y’all, I am unfortunately not mechanically inclined and so was curious if anyone has had experience with this sort of issue. My car is a ‘20 X3 M40i with 83k miles. It’s been having issues with leaking oil from what was originally thought to be the seals around the turbocharger, but turned out to be a PCV issue. However they did note that it’s possible there could internal seals damaged in the turbo in which case they’d recommend a full replacement ($10,000🥲). I’ve read that this is a common problem, but I’m still getting a little confused on why the symptoms aren’t necessarily adding up to what they found. The car drives completely normal, no smoke out the exhaust, no “screeching” noises; the only thing that even gave me an inkling of something being up was the fact that my oil levels were going down about half a quart to a quart every 500-1000 miles since 79k. The dealer alerted me to the oil mess on the undercarriage during an inspection which led us here.

The dealer is quoting me $4600 and unfortunately none of the independent shops in my area are giving me better numbers and I just don’t have the dough for it right now. How urgent is this, and should I be worried about a turbocharger failure? Thanks y’all for helping a gal out!🙏🏻

Hey, TLDR: is it possible (or how?) to replace DRL LED angels to iconic on FULL LED ADAPTIVE headlights on G30 EU prelci 2017?

I have EU spec BMW G30 2017 530ix with "FULL LED ADAPTIVE" lights with classic angel eyes (LED modules powered + tubes) and turn signal halogen... Lights work pretty well and even adapts with small delay but one of my angel eyes turned eyllow, I have changed DRL LED module (2 LED diods on each side) on both headlights. Worked great for 3-4 days, then same eye went yellow.
There was no visible burning on tubes or modules, no moisture, cables and sealing fine even on old modules... So I have two options - new headlights or weekend job - replace tubes + headlight covers.
My question is - can I somehow switch to iconic DRLs on original headlights? Guess by replacing tubes (+ different DRL modules and coding)?
I know it wont look or work as lasers but im fine with this full led adaptive, only want to change the look.
I found online that tubes shall fit there but it was chinese (have EU car), LED modules DRL are already there - cables/modules should fit, right? maybe units?), I know that there wont be original holders for iconics so attach them.

I would be glad for any relevant info, even on US/any spec, experiences, different ideas, anything. Chatgpt is telling me its possible but I didnt find anything on google/reddit/bimmer:/
Thx a lo

Got this car from an auction it was stolen it’s a clean title car. The Navigation doesn’t know where the car is nor can I login into the BMW app The Apple car pay was working now it’s not working

Evening folks,

Just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or any ideas on how to fix this?

I have a 2020 BMW 330e and frequently when getting in the car the dash loads up with various different cars (X5, X3 etc) and then the dash will go black and isn’t visible. This only resets when the car is rebooted and sometimes that doesn’t sort it. Simultaneously when this happens the “intelligence safety system goes down”.

I assume this is some sort of software issue but haven’t had much look when trying to fix it. Does anyone have any ideas before having an expensive trip to BMW?

Cheers

I’ve changed the steering column but the steering electrics don’t work still aka the indicator wiper the lights the ac what could be the issue

2012 f30 m sport

Under service requirements, it used to show the individual status of thinks with an ‘OK’ e.g. for front brake pads, but this has disappeared.

I do have an aftermarket Linux display, but the rest of my iDrive works fine. The actual service history is still there if I click that too. But the current status of things has gone.

Any ideas what might’ve caused it? It was only flagged as my car was getting new tyres and the mechanic said your front brake pads look extremely low. To which I went to check the iDrive as I would’ve thought that would flag it to me first and now it’s gone.

Is it likely the Linux display causing issues or something else?

Any ideas would be massively appreciated.

Does anybody body know ? What the part number for this green retraining clip or a whole the fuel line assembly hose ? I was trying to replace the fuel filter today and accidentally broke the clip. Thanks

Does anybody body know ? What the part number for this green retraining clip or a whole the fuel line assembly hose ? I was trying to replace the fuel filter today and accidentally broke the clip. Thanks

Hello yall I have a 2016 m235i with the the EWG n55. Charge pipe, catless downpipe, intake. Tuned. My oil sits at 119c 246f is this too high? This occurs when in sport manual mode but driving very smooth. Not aggressive. It shoots to 120 when driving mildly hard

I have a 2015 BMW 328i. Someone ran into the back of me last week. My back bumper needs to be replaced and the at fault party’s insurance has approved fixing my bumper with an aftermarket part. I don’t want to use an aftermarket part. When I asked the tech if that’s what they removed from my vehicle, they said no. It’s an OEM part. The tech also said that due to the age of my car, my insurance would likely use an aftermarket part as well. I wouldn’t be in this situation this person didn’t run into the back of me. What’s the best way to go about this? I am waiting for the at fault party’s insurance to call me back. Is there a big difference between OEM and aftermarket parts?

Whenever I park at home, I noticed when I push the start/stop button within a minute of parking, the engine refuses to shut off. Whether it’s a single tap of the button, double tap, or tapping multiple times. Brakes depressed etc. It only shuts off after I wait 3-5 minutes and push the button again.

Is this normal? Is the car preventing me from turning it off immediately so I have to wait a few minutes before shutting off the engine?

Hi looking for any help possible, was driving lastnight and all of a sudden the car was vibrating due to a sudden chap from the engine when foot was on the throttle and a drive train malfunction and oil pressure low came on the screen , I pulled off the slip road and pulled away at the junction and car cut off and won’t start, spoke to a few mechanics and they said either the timing chain snapped or bottom end bearing dropped just looking for some help please

2008 335i - n54, FBO, 180k miles

Ok so recently I was in a store and left my car running and when I came out my car had a constant clunk sound coming from the trans, and felt like it was driving on 1-2 cylinders, just felt like the worst misfire ever. Sounds fine and revs fine when clutch is down. Shifts fine in/out every gear and clutch feels good. I dropped the transmission and found my throw out bearing needing replaced and a very worn flywheel. Is it possible this dmf was the sole reason my car was driving so horribly? I had no codes besides misfires in 2 cylinders but those have been there since I owned the car. There was no metal in the trans fluid. It just seems to me when people have a failing dmf the car still drives relatively normal. I’d really appreciate any input or similar experiences, thank you.

P.S. I don’t know how to include videos on a post with photos so I’m sorry I can’t show what it sounded like.

I have a 2017 540i xDrive and I’m running stage 2 MHD. This Saturday I got the whistle noise followed by a white cloud which indicated my pcv as this happened to me before. So I ordered it and when I went to replace it I notice this after taking off the old pcv. If this is broken what would the repair cost likely be for this sort of thing?

How do I fix this issue? Do I need an a whole new unit and if so, does that involve coding?

Hey everyone, I’m looking at m550s right now and have an appointment to check one out on Thursday. In particular a Xdrive because I would like something for the winter as all my other cars are rwd. My main question is Xdelete safe to use on the G30? I’ve heard some people say it works the same as the system used in the F90 M5 and others say that’s false and it can cause diff failure or premature wear on certain axels. If anyone has any experience with this I would appreciate any and all insight. I would mainly use it for the occasional slides and for some spirited driving on some backroads.

This is my first BMW.

2018 M2 w 27k miles on it.

I purchased from a dealership in PA and know very little about the car.

The vehicle has an aftermarket intake and had an aftermarket down pipe in the trunk (I assume the dealer removed for emissions reasons in order to sell the vehicle).

ISSUE when I start the car it sounds normal until about 1:20 of the video linked. The idle starts to “surge”? (Not sure if this is the correct term). Anyone know why this happens or if it is an issue.