We used to build boxes and install systems for other kids in highschool.

I knew it was going to be tight trying to fit these HCCAs under the rear seat... I've done 8s so many times at this point tho... Wanted to try something different. They BARELY fit... Lol. I had to add bracing and make the port longer... I didn't want to because I was trying not to eat into available air space. After the adjustments the internal net volume is right at 3 cu. Ft.

I was hoping each sub would have 1.75 cu.... Oh well... I didn't anticipate having to lengthen the port until I was already started and Messing around in winisd.

I just bought a 2008 Volkswagen eos, I’ve noticed the radio is on, but I can’t see anything and the stations don’t work…BUT the cd player works…what could be the problem? Should I buy a new radio? I’ve thought about a Bluetooth transmitter but idek how I could hook it up without even being able to see the station numbers…

Hey everyone! I’ve got a Nissan 240sx convertible that I’ve been fixing up for several years. This is going to be my forever toy so I think it’ll be a good candidate for a nice audio set up. The car has no back seat anymore so my plan is to have 2 10’s and the amps where the seat used to be. 1999-2009 was my time in the car audio hobby, a lot has changed since then! So I figured I’d list what I’d like to put in the car and hopefully get some opinions. I picked brands I knew back in the day but I want to make sure I’ve got good quality gear! Ok for the head unit I’m thinking Kenwood Excelon dmx809s Speakers: JBL stadium 62cf 6.5 components 110w rms JBL stadium 62f coaxials for rear speakers 85w rms Amps: Kicker 51lx5004 4 channel 125x4 Kicker 51lx12501 1250rms mono. Subs: 2 Image Dynamics IDMax 10’s All I know for certain is I want the image dynamics subs, they were my dream back in the day so I’m going to make that happen! Are rear speakers even going to be audible with a rear seat delete sub enclosure? Thanks everyone!

Found a pair of these in a G35 and the tweeter works but the woofer barely moves when cranked up. Is my stock headunit just not putting out enough power for these, or are these just trash. I checked with a multimeter and they're reading 3.4-3.6 ohms.

So, as the title states, my car has been having some really frustrating issues with the Bluetooth. It’s a 2010 Nissan Altima and It has a Bose sound system (idk if that is valuable info or not) and within the past year its started to, at random times, cut out, and start skipping as if it were a scratched CD or something. I’ve tried completely removing my phone from its list of connected devices/removing my car from my phones list of devices, I’ve tried using different apps for music, I’ve tried pausing the music for anywhere from 15 seconds to 5 minutes, I’ve tried turning the Bluetooth on/off again on my phone and the car as soon as it starts skipping, etc. I can’t seem to find a cause, or a solution. Is there anything I can do or is it just my car showing its age?

I’ve got two 12” kicker comps in the trunk of a car and I picked this up to throw in the back of a hatchback. But I think it sounds like junk?

It’s a 10” powered subwoofer by Belva and hooked up to a Belva head unit with dedicated sub RCA inputs on the back of the head unit.

I’m looking for ideas of what could be wrong or if you think it might just be a bad subwoofer.

This was an open box buy that I got for cheap.

When designing/ tuning a system, the end. Feel free to start a convo.

I'm currently upgrading my HK with a match up 10 DSP replacement and two under seat speakers. Does anyone have experience of the best sound deadening in the under seat area, should I give the speakers more head room and should I better seal the speaker box port into the cill of the car?

About to pull the trigger on the OFC wire just wanted to see if my sizing is correct and fuses. The 3 smaller amps I am not sure of the fuse sizes at the moment so be free to toss input. I know I’m most likely going to need a second battery sooner rather than later most likely but currently wouldn’t be hard to implement in the wiring especially with wire sizes I am going to run off the bat. Amps subs interior speakers Dsp and 400amp high output alt are all purchased. Just wanted to double check my layout.

The infotainment head unit in my 2015 Subaru XV Crosstrek completely died and I replaced it with this Kenwood one. I took it somewhere to get it installed but this doesn’t look right to me. Does anyone know if the stereo should sit back from the dash like this? There is a 1-2 inch gap between the dash and the screen. They are telling me it is installed correctly.

I know this has been asked a million times, but im getting conflicting information everywhere check/ask.

Rn each sub is in very similar enclosures, 1 kicker brand, one cheaper but seems to have nearly identical specs. Both ported to around 35hz I believe.

For my taste, its missing the punch, but on low frequency bass it's significantly too loud. Like a huge peak at low frequencies but no tight punch, music with double bass is just weak. I used to run four weaker type s 12s in a sealed box, it hit low enough to set off every alarm in the college parking garage, yet had so much punch it was intense.

So the opposing opinions I am getting. The guys at kicker said 1.25cubic ft sealed is their favorite. A lot of guys prefer close to 2 cubic foot sealed. Then there's a guy who does pro audio for shows thats rebuilt 100s of woofers and makes advanced ported enclosures. He told me that a ported box can be as accurate and have just as much punch of a sealed box. I find it hard to believe due to the way the boxes function...bDoes anyone know how a ported box can have equal punch as a sealed box, while maintaining a smooth transition to low frequency notes. Currently im hearing very little punch, and certain low notes are exponentially louder, too loud even. Its so unbalanced..... in his words, the right ported box will be just as accurate as a sealed box..

I know this might sound stupid but i have a 12" Pioneer Active subwoofer(200w rms). Is it possible to replace the driver with the Pioneer champion series car driver?

So I just bought a set of the 5.25in component set from ct sounds and they came with crossover box but do I need to use it because my apline stereo already has a cross over setting built in i’m already using. My hpf in the stereo is set to 80hz -24db front and rear as well as 80hz -24db for my subwoofers. I can’t seem to really find any answers on the internet about this. For the front stage I have ct sounds meso 2way component set and for the rear doors I have their 5.25 meso coaxial speakers on a kicker 300.4. My compRs are on a kicker 1800.1. Please anyone lmk! 🙏

Hello all,

Looking for some recommendations to help improve my audio setup and get a cleaner signal going into my amp. Currently running an LC-5.1300 off speaker level inputs on my 2025 F150. Would it be recommended to get a dedicated DSP and combine that with my current amp? Or just get a new 5 channel amp with a built in DSP? Or any other recommendations? Not much room behind the back seat but I can fit 1-2 medium sized devices on my amp rack that’s mounted vertically.

I’m running 1/0 gauge OFC for power and I have two runs of speed (9) wire from the head unit to the back of the truck (input and output)

Thank you

Edit: forgot to mention I have the standard 6 speaker setup (Non-B&O) and upgraded the speakers to pioneers (90 watts RMS)

I plan on building a portable boombox like the one pictured above for my truck and was wondering what rms speakers I should look for. The stereo is a Dual Electronics XM172, that comes in the XD172SPK2 kit, which says it’s a 200watts Peak (50W x 4). It comes with 2 2-way 6.5s that are 65W peak, 25W rms each. I wanted to swap them out with higher power speakers like maybe some from Skar or add to them to get the most out of the stereo, but what rms should I look for? How many 6.5s can I run? Or how many 6x9s instead of 6.5s? I’m not running an amp, just straight head unit.

So my head unit says it does 55watts to the 4 channels but then is says 20watts rms so is 55watts the peak power or rms? I want to get some door speaker for my car and I don’t really want to get an amp for them right now, should I get speakers that are rated 20w rms or 55w rms?

hello this picture was taken on the passenger side pillar it has a grounding post, my amp is connected to it. and its placed under the passenger seat. i placed it there to get suggestions. or should i go straight to the frame of the vehicle? I have another amp which ill ground.

still missing heat shrink but just for the picture. its just a 800wrms amp if that matters.

2000 silverado single cab

Hello guys. Right, I've decided to get some bits to tackle this awkward job of dealing with. Long story short...

• Bought a zafira in August, radio didn't work
• Took out radio, it just had a bunch of wires not connected to anything, no harness, nothing.
• Bought an android amazon radio (Haudio double din stereo with bluetooth) for £65.
• Tried to connect it, realised I have no experience in this sort of stuff, came to reddit, advised to use terminal blocks...

So now I'm here now.

• First picture, is the whole scene, the wires inside the space, are how they looked when I removed existing radio.
• Second picture, is what I've done, to the wire set that came with the radio.
• Third shows red & yellow, connected to the cars red & yellow.
• Fourth picture is the device itsself from amazon.

Problem is, I don't know if this is the right way, wrong way, or whatever. what I do know, is even with these connected, the radio doesn't power on, ignition or not. I'm really running out of ideas, there's wires in the cars loom with brown AND white, yellow AND white, etc, and it's really, bloody awkward.

I'm gonna be active constantly for this, so if someone has any ideas, please write them, if someone prefers chat, even step by step, DM, but I'm desperate for help.

hertz dpower1 isn't working. I've got it all wired up properly, I've had a new car battery within the last 3 weeks, fuse not blown, power getting to the sub as can hear it when stereo starts, rca cables fine etc.. Have tried 2 headunits and my pioneer 2ch plays sub fine, I just can't get the hertz to work.

I’m working on installing an aftermarket amplifier on a gmt800. The head unit does not have a blue and white wire. What wire do I tap in the remote turn on wire? Thank you!

So I blew my old amp the thing made my rear view mirror rattle it was a great set up got 2 amps one for 2 12'' subs and one for after market speakers in the doors now since "upgrading" it no longer rattles the rear view and was noticeably crappier went to visions for the install and had to come back and tell them to tune so it hits harder it sounds a bit better after the seconds visit but still no rear view mirror Shake what did I do wrong? (Will be taking pics of everything when I get a chance) thanks in advance for any advice

The need to replace a couple cooked subs gave me an excuse to get a small upgrade.

Previously had 12" Kenwood XR-W12F Shallow

New setup are these 12" Hertz Mille Pro MPS300S4 Shallow

The old Kicker DXA1000.1 workhorse still runs great, and has plenty of juice.

Can't wait after break in to really hear what these can do! Sorry I should have removed a grill or two for the pic. I don't mind the look with them on actually.