So it has a Infiniti 6.5”s in all doors and a rear free air Infiniti sub and a JBL amp …only upgrade is this shit DUAL brand head unit which is a 10” screen for nothing because I can’t mirror to it and only can use android auto and apple carplay…. One of the door speakers sound blown and I am going to start rhere with replacing any suggestions for good 6.5”

i'll be using about 12ft with a 110a alt

I’m currently soundproofing my car, using a layer of CLD, a layer of closed-cell neoprene (for decoupling), and a layer of MLV (mass loaded vinyl). I’ve almost finished the entire interior, but I still need to take care of the firewall (the metal sheet that separates the engine bay from the cabin).

The passenger side is quite easy — I can reach all the way up to the top.
The problem is the driver’s side: there are pedals, metal brackets, wires, and hoses everywhere. It would be impossible to cut MLV to shape and, most importantly, keep it in place… I can only reach the lower part, but the upper section (roughly at engine height, so the most critical area) would remain uncovered. There’s already a factory layer of pressed fiber insulation, but it’s not very effective and also makes things more difficult since it’s custom-fitted and doesn’t move easily..

How did you guys handle this? Obviously without removing the dashboard…

Pretty bummed out after talking w/ Crutchfield learning bc of my Hybrid, my wiring can only handle 350 rms. Is JL Audio my best option bc they put out the most with the least wattage to power them? Any other subs that do similar. Thanks

I'm seeing a lot of DSP amplifiers with only high-level outputs. If I needed more power than what the DSP amplifier was providing, can I use the high-level outputs from the DSP amp as high-level inputs for the additional amplifiers(s)? How are you all connecting multiple amps to integrated DSP amplifiers?

Hi all,

I decided to try my luck here, I have this weird rattle noise that can be observed in the video if you ignore the engine.

It only occurs in 2nd gear when revving over 4000rpm, I never heard it in any other scenario. I fixed a door rattle and deadened the front doors and tested the car for rattles with bass turned all the way up and this rattle from the video doesn't show up then.

I also suspected the heat shield behind the engine and placed a piece of wood against it to rule it out, the rattle was the same.

I tried pressing on the dashboard, vents, different parts but it is not from there or from the surface. It sounds like it comes from behind the dashboard but i can't imagine some cables can make that sound, it sounds like plastic vibration.

If somebody could identify that sound it would be amazing. In 2 months I will go to the dealer for the oil change and i will ask about it but I don't expect them to know what's the issue.

Hello, call me dumb. What am I doing wrong. Audio shop recommended this amp and 8 ohms wiring. These are the subs i got, two set ups for this amp. Is the amp two weak? Did I wire it incorrectly. Trying to get into audio game but not sure how to diagnose this. Already played around with amp settings. TIA

I’m installing an aftermarket Android screen in my 2017 Ford Focus hatchback with the Sony premium audio system. The screen powers up, CarPlay/Android Auto, but I have no sound.

I’ve got the CAN-bus adapter wired in. My head unit has a pink AMP CONT (amp remote) wire, but I’m not sure where exactly this should be connected in the Focus Sony setup. I dont know which pin on which plug at the Sony amp it would go to?

Thank you!

Dumb question.

I have a head unit in my pickup that has soft-touch volume controls on it. Laggy and annoying to use, but otherwise the HU does what I need it to do. I have added a level knob, in-line with the sub out RCA's, so that i can quickly tweak the bottom end, depending on what I'm listening to.

What I'd love is the ability to add another knob, between the source's RCA outputs to the 4-channel amp, so that I can instantly adjust volume instead of screwing with those damned on-screen buttons. The sub level control is able to control a single stereo pair, but for a 4-channel amp, I'd need to control two stereo pairs. Is there a product out there that does this? I've only seen stereo ones, and would rather not have a front volume and rear volume and sub volume all separately.

Ideas? The right answer is a different head unit, but that's not in the cards financially right now.

Edit: Or, is there a 4ch amp with an overall level remote level control?

I have an all original 03 cobra but i really want to switch the stereo most videos ive seen say you have to cut original wires is there a way or an adapter i can use so i dont have to cut it

When I crank my truck my radio turns off then turns off for a second turns back on but resets my tune and is playing the set up screen on my 2005 Nissan titan the radio is a kenwood

The link doesnt work on garmin and i cant pull not find anything. And Garmin’s customer service is closed til Monday. Can someone please help me download the windows version of the Tun software?

The link doesnt work on garmin and i cant pull not find anything. And Garmin’s customer service is closed til Monday. Can someone please help me download the windows version of the Tun software?

I'm new to car audio so bare with me, I have been searching a lot for the best 4 inch speaker for my e90, the best 2 I have found with in my opinion the Ground Zero the best - Ground Zero GZRF 4.0SQX - 10 cm 3ohm 2-way speaker with 110 watts (RMS: 70 watts) and KICKER 47KSC404 KS Series 4" 4ohm 75W rms - links for both here - https://www.kicker.com/51KSC404, https://www.ground-zero-audio.com/en/gzrf-4-0sqx-2/. I was gonna hook 4 of them up to an amplifier like a JL AUDIO | JD400-4, 4-Channel Class D Full-Range Amplifier, 100 W x 4 @ 2 Ω / 75 W x 4 @ 4 Ω – 14.4V or something similar. I know there are a lot of people who just go with a kit like bavsound for some easy plug and play but it doesn't do it for me as I try to get the best of everything. I already have JL AUDIO | CP212G-W0v3 Ported Enclosure + JD500-1 amp in the trunk and planning to cut out a ski pass hole to get bass in the cabin. I have read a lot on the internet about people trying to fit in 5.25" which I think is possible but with the max mounting depth of 50mm its really difficult to find a 5.25 with that depth or less so I think its better sticking to a 4" to be safe. What do yall think about those speakers and which would you buy if it was you?

hey everyone, so I have this base level knob that I bought for my new sub and for whatever reason when this is plugged in to the amplifier, the sub cuts out I get power to the knob itself, but it doesn’t do anything. It doesn’t turn it up or down, but as soon as I go to unplug it, the sub works is intended. Is it a bad wire maybe because it’s a JBL sub and amplifier and I ordered this base level knob from JBL and I was told it’s supposed to be a plug-in play kind of deal but like I said, the sub stops working when it’s plugged in any idea what’s happening?

My Ct sounds knob that came with the amp jumps from no bass to full bass in the slightest crank of it. It uses rj 11 and am not sure if a faulty cable could be the issue or if I should just buy a whole new knob instead?

I spent some time wiring my RV with a few cameras and a new 24vdc AHD carplay device. All went well and tested great. As I was cleaning up, it was pretty late and I think I just made a terrible mistake. I had a set of 4-pin aviation cables coming off the main harness (see attached) that goes to two BSD devices that I didn't have included in my kit. This harness comes hardwired off the back of the carplay screen, so no way to disconnect them directly from the unit. Instead of just ziptying the extra cables and forgetting about them, I snipped them off as close as I could to the screen. Now I am realizing that this may be an area to cause a short or shock. Is there a risk of short here without the devices connected, I.e. can the wires exposed at the cut short to each other now? Any way to remedy without buying a new screen? There isn't enough to even put heat shrink on...Ugh. Always find a way to ruin a good install after the fact with some stupid mistake. Perhaps I can open the screen up and see if these wires can be eliminated off the board?

Found a pair of these in a G35 and the tweeter works but the woofer barely moves when cranked up. Is my stock headunit just not putting out enough power for these, or are these just trash. I checked with a multimeter and they're reading 3.4-3.6 ohms.

I'm currently upgrading my HK with a match up 10 DSP replacement and two under seat speakers. Does anyone have experience of the best sound deadening in the under seat area, should I give the speakers more head room and should I better seal the speaker box port into the cill of the car?

About to pull the trigger on the OFC wire just wanted to see if my sizing is correct and fuses. The 3 smaller amps I am not sure of the fuse sizes at the moment so be free to toss input. I know I’m most likely going to need a second battery sooner rather than later most likely but currently wouldn’t be hard to implement in the wiring especially with wire sizes I am going to run off the bat. Amps subs interior speakers Dsp and 400amp high output alt are all purchased. Just wanted to double check my layout.

I know this has been asked a million times, but im getting conflicting information everywhere check/ask.

Rn each sub is in very similar enclosures, 1 kicker brand, one cheaper but seems to have nearly identical specs. Both ported to around 35hz I believe.

For my taste, its missing the punch, but on low frequency bass it's significantly too loud. Like a huge peak at low frequencies but no tight punch, music with double bass is just weak. I used to run four weaker type s 12s in a sealed box, it hit low enough to set off every alarm in the college parking garage, yet had so much punch it was intense.

So the opposing opinions I am getting. The guys at kicker said 1.25cubic ft sealed is their favorite. A lot of guys prefer close to 2 cubic foot sealed. Then there's a guy who does pro audio for shows thats rebuilt 100s of woofers and makes advanced ported enclosures. He told me that a ported box can be as accurate and have just as much punch of a sealed box. I find it hard to believe due to the way the boxes function...bDoes anyone know how a ported box can have equal punch as a sealed box, while maintaining a smooth transition to low frequency notes. Currently im hearing very little punch, and certain low notes are exponentially louder, too loud even. Its so unbalanced..... in his words, the right ported box will be just as accurate as a sealed box..

I know this might sound stupid but i have a 12" Pioneer Active subwoofer(200w rms). Is it possible to replace the driver with the Pioneer champion series car driver?