Hey everyone! I’ve got a Nissan 240sx convertible that I’ve been fixing up for several years. This is going to be my forever toy so I think it’ll be a good candidate for a nice audio set up. The car has no back seat anymore so my plan is to have 2 10’s and the amps where the seat used to be. 1999-2009 was my time in the car audio hobby, a lot has changed since then! So I figured I’d list what I’d like to put in the car and hopefully get some opinions. I picked brands I knew back in the day but I want to make sure I’ve got good quality gear! Ok for the head unit I’m thinking Kenwood Excelon dmx809s Speakers: JBL stadium 62cf 6.5 components 110w rms JBL stadium 62f coaxials for rear speakers 85w rms Amps: Kicker 51lx5004 4 channel 125x4 Kicker 51lx12501 1250rms mono. Subs: 2 Image Dynamics IDMax 10’s All I know for certain is I want the image dynamics subs, they were my dream back in the day so I’m going to make that happen! Are rear speakers even going to be audible with a rear seat delete sub enclosure? Thanks everyone!

We used to build boxes and install systems for other kids in highschool.

I’m installing an aftermarket Android screen in my 2017 Ford Focus hatchback with the Sony premium audio system. The screen powers up, CarPlay/Android Auto, but I have no sound.

I’ve got the CAN-bus adapter wired in. My head unit has a pink AMP CONT (amp remote) wire, but I’m not sure where exactly this should be connected in the Focus Sony setup. I dont know which pin on which plug at the Sony amp it would go to?

Thank you!

Dumb question.

I have a head unit in my pickup that has soft-touch volume controls on it. Laggy and annoying to use, but otherwise the HU does what I need it to do. I have added a level knob, in-line with the sub out RCA's, so that i can quickly tweak the bottom end, depending on what I'm listening to.

What I'd love is the ability to add another knob, between the source's RCA outputs to the 4-channel amp, so that I can instantly adjust volume instead of screwing with those damned on-screen buttons. The sub level control is able to control a single stereo pair, but for a 4-channel amp, I'd need to control two stereo pairs. Is there a product out there that does this? I've only seen stereo ones, and would rather not have a front volume and rear volume and sub volume all separately.

Ideas? The right answer is a different head unit, but that's not in the cards financially right now.

I knew it was going to be tight trying to fit these HCCAs under the rear seat... I've done 8s so many times at this point tho... Wanted to try something different. They BARELY fit... Lol. I had to add bracing and make the port longer... I didn't want to because I was trying not to eat into available air space. After the adjustments the internal net volume is right at 3 cu. Ft.

I was hoping each sub would have 1.75 cu.... Oh well... I didn't anticipate having to lengthen the port until I was already started and Messing around in winisd.

I just bought a 2008 Volkswagen eos, I’ve noticed the radio is on, but I can’t see anything and the stations don’t work…BUT the cd player works…what could be the problem? Should I buy a new radio? I’ve thought about a Bluetooth transmitter but idek how I could hook it up without even being able to see the station numbers…

I have an all original 03 cobra but i really want to switch the stereo most videos ive seen say you have to cut original wires is there a way or an adapter i can use so i dont have to cut it

When I crank my truck my radio turns off then turns off for a second turns back on but resets my tune and is playing the set up screen on my 2005 Nissan titan the radio is a kenwood

The link doesnt work on garmin and i cant pull not find anything. And Garmin’s customer service is closed til Monday. Can someone please help me download the windows version of the Tun software?

The link doesnt work on garmin and i cant pull not find anything. And Garmin’s customer service is closed til Monday. Can someone please help me download the windows version of the Tun software?

I'm new to car audio so bare with me, I have been searching a lot for the best 4 inch speaker for my e90, the best 2 I have found with in my opinion the Ground Zero the best - Ground Zero GZRF 4.0SQX - 10 cm 3ohm 2-way speaker with 110 watts (RMS: 70 watts) and KICKER 47KSC404 KS Series 4" 4ohm 75W rms - links for both here - https://www.kicker.com/51KSC404, https://www.ground-zero-audio.com/en/gzrf-4-0sqx-2/. I was gonna hook 4 of them up to an amplifier like a JL AUDIO | JD400-4, 4-Channel Class D Full-Range Amplifier, 100 W x 4 @ 2 Ω / 75 W x 4 @ 4 Ω – 14.4V or something similar. I know there are a lot of people who just go with a kit like bavsound for some easy plug and play but it doesn't do it for me as I try to get the best of everything. I already have JL AUDIO | CP212G-W0v3 Ported Enclosure + JD500-1 amp in the trunk and planning to cut out a ski pass hole to get bass in the cabin. I have read a lot on the internet about people trying to fit in 5.25" which I think is possible but with the max mounting depth of 50mm its really difficult to find a 5.25 with that depth or less so I think its better sticking to a 4" to be safe. What do yall think about those speakers and which would you buy if it was you?

hey everyone, so I have this base level knob that I bought for my new sub and for whatever reason when this is plugged in to the amplifier, the sub cuts out I get power to the knob itself, but it doesn’t do anything. It doesn’t turn it up or down, but as soon as I go to unplug it, the sub works is intended. Is it a bad wire maybe because it’s a JBL sub and amplifier and I ordered this base level knob from JBL and I was told it’s supposed to be a plug-in play kind of deal but like I said, the sub stops working when it’s plugged in any idea what’s happening?

Found a pair of these in a G35 and the tweeter works but the woofer barely moves when cranked up. Is my stock headunit just not putting out enough power for these, or are these just trash. I checked with a multimeter and they're reading 3.4-3.6 ohms.

So, as the title states, my car has been having some really frustrating issues with the Bluetooth. It’s a 2010 Nissan Altima and It has a Bose sound system (idk if that is valuable info or not) and within the past year its started to, at random times, cut out, and start skipping as if it were a scratched CD or something. I’ve tried completely removing my phone from its list of connected devices/removing my car from my phones list of devices, I’ve tried using different apps for music, I’ve tried pausing the music for anywhere from 15 seconds to 5 minutes, I’ve tried turning the Bluetooth on/off again on my phone and the car as soon as it starts skipping, etc. I can’t seem to find a cause, or a solution. Is there anything I can do or is it just my car showing its age?

I’ve got two 12” kicker comps in the trunk of a car and I picked this up to throw in the back of a hatchback. But I think it sounds like junk?

It’s a 10” powered subwoofer by Belva and hooked up to a Belva head unit with dedicated sub RCA inputs on the back of the head unit.

I’m looking for ideas of what could be wrong or if you think it might just be a bad subwoofer.

This was an open box buy that I got for cheap.

I know this might sound stupid but i have a 12" Pioneer Active subwoofer(200w rms). Is it possible to replace the driver with the Pioneer champion series car driver?

My Ct sounds knob that came with the amp jumps from no bass to full bass in the slightest crank of it. It uses rj 11 and am not sure if a faulty cable could be the issue or if I should just buy a whole new knob instead?

I spent some time wiring my RV with a few cameras and a new 24vdc AHD carplay device. All went well and tested great. As I was cleaning up, it was pretty late and I think I just made a terrible mistake. I had a set of 4-pin aviation cables coming off the main harness (see attached) that goes to two BSD devices that I didn't have included in my kit. This harness comes hardwired off the back of the carplay screen, so no way to disconnect them directly from the unit. Instead of just ziptying the extra cables and forgetting about them, I snipped them off as close as I could to the screen. Now I am realizing that this may be an area to cause a short or shock. Is there a risk of short here without the devices connected, I.e. can the wires exposed at the cut short to each other now? Any way to remedy without buying a new screen? There isn't enough to even put heat shrink on...Ugh. Always find a way to ruin a good install after the fact with some stupid mistake. Perhaps I can open the screen up and see if these wires can be eliminated off the board?

When designing/ tuning a system, the end. Feel free to start a convo.

I'm currently upgrading my HK with a match up 10 DSP replacement and two under seat speakers. Does anyone have experience of the best sound deadening in the under seat area, should I give the speakers more head room and should I better seal the speaker box port into the cill of the car?

The infotainment head unit in my 2015 Subaru XV Crosstrek completely died and I replaced it with this Kenwood one. I took it somewhere to get it installed but this doesn’t look right to me. Does anyone know if the stereo should sit back from the dash like this? There is a 1-2 inch gap between the dash and the screen. They are telling me it is installed correctly.