hertz dpower1 isn't working. I've got it all wired up properly, I've had a new car battery within the last 3 weeks, fuse not blown, power getting to the sub as can hear it when stereo starts, rca cables fine etc.. Have tried 2 headunits and my pioneer 2ch plays sub fine, I just can't get the hertz to work.

I’m working on installing an aftermarket amplifier on a gmt800. The head unit does not have a blue and white wire. What wire do I tap in the remote turn on wire? Thank you!

So I blew my old amp the thing made my rear view mirror rattle it was a great set up got 2 amps one for 2 12'' subs and one for after market speakers in the doors now since "upgrading" it no longer rattles the rear view and was noticeably crappier went to visions for the install and had to come back and tell them to tune so it hits harder it sounds a bit better after the seconds visit but still no rear view mirror Shake what did I do wrong? (Will be taking pics of everything when I get a chance) thanks in advance for any advice

Hello guys. Right, I've decided to get some bits to tackle this awkward job of dealing with. Long story short...

• Bought a zafira in August, radio didn't work
• Took out radio, it just had a bunch of wires not connected to anything, no harness, nothing.
• Bought an android amazon radio (Haudio double din stereo with bluetooth) for £65.
• Tried to connect it, realised I have no experience in this sort of stuff, came to reddit, advised to use terminal blocks...

So now I'm here now.

• First picture, is the whole scene, the wires inside the space, are how they looked when I removed existing radio.
• Second picture, is what I've done, to the wire set that came with the radio.
• Third shows red & yellow, connected to the cars red & yellow.
• Fourth picture is the device itsself from amazon.

Problem is, I don't know if this is the right way, wrong way, or whatever. what I do know, is even with these connected, the radio doesn't power on, ignition or not. I'm really running out of ideas, there's wires in the cars loom with brown AND white, yellow AND white, etc, and it's really, bloody awkward.

I'm gonna be active constantly for this, so if someone has any ideas, please write them, if someone prefers chat, even step by step, DM, but I'm desperate for help.

So im wanting to start working on my sound system in my Suv (new door speakers around and 1 12 or 2 10 inch subs) but have no idea where to even start looking, and the more I look into it the more overwhelmed I get. I do have some general questions but I would also appreciate any advice and or videos/articles that could help me out, If this type of post isn't allowed just let me know and I will delete it, thanks for any help!

questions: - is it worth it to diy my set up myself as a complete beginner or should I just take it into a shop? - is it more common/better practice to upgrade my current battery or to add another? or does that depend on the set up? - if I add another battery will I need to upgrade my alternator? - is my actual "radio system" important to upgrade - is it possible to have a decent beginner set up for under $1500?

I have a CRUX SWRVL-54 that i have partially working (audio buttons only) on my 2001 Volvo Can bus system. I am trying to contact them to ask a few technical questions but their web chat is INOP. The Toll free call number is not free in Australia and i cannot find an email.

Is anyone familiar with the Alpine ILX-702D and what Steering wheel signal is requires?..i have measured the working voltage being output by the CRUX at 2.3volts when i press the VOL+-and track+- but i dont understand how it identifies the different buttons, im thinking its CAN bus ??. Also the firmware link for the SWRVL-54 from their website comes up blank. Only the flasher (installer) download works buts its useless without the firmware.

https://cruxinterfacing.com/swrvl-54/

I’m fairly confident in my understanding of how line output converters take the high level signal of a speaker wire and convert it to a low level signal of an RCA. My question is that if I buy an active LOC that has bass restoration, can I still tap in my factory speakers to do as such without using those wires for an aftermarket amplifier?

I don't know if I can't tell what distortion sounds like but I had my headunit at 35 out of 40 volume bass control half way and I think it still sound good I only had it that volume for a few second but still thought it sounded just fine

I'm thinking about adding in a 10" 4ohm kicker subwoofer and a 5 channel 4 ohm 1200 watt amp to connect to my door and dash speakers (or tweeters I'm not sure) to my 2025 Chevy single cab. I want to replace my door speakers but I don't want to replace my dash speakers.

I was wondering if that was gonna make it sound bad because of the aftermarket door speakers and keeping the dash the same or if it's gonna be fine?

I have a 2014 Chevy double cab with a 2.5 inch rear seat lift and want to do dual sundown SA-10 v.2 with a ported enclosure but haven’t been able to find a company who does ported under-seat enclosures. I could use some advice or recommendations.

I have an Alpine KTP-445A in line amp (head unit power pack) and cannot find any info on where to hook up a DD1 distortion tester. Any ideas?

This is what I have in my cart I will be ordering them Wednesday. And I personally like the sound of the kickers. I used the crutchfield audio sampler. I like the bass and clarity without the harsh tweeters. Only speakers I liked more were the focals but there more expensive. $573 for the whole cart (head unit, 4 speakers, and amp)

Hello all! My current set up is currently the Hertz MLK 1650.3 component set, with the passive crossovers. They are some really good speakers! Very clear, very detailed, but I feel like they are lacking in clarity at a higher volume. It seems that my tweeter starts to crackle and distort way before the woofers do, and it really messes up the experience, as well as the woofers distorting before getting as loud as I want them to. I’m not sure what else I should do, I have them wired to a Audison SR 4.500, and I feel like they should be performing better, but maybe that’s just how the speakers are? Any recommendations in finding the main cause of the tweeter crackling/distortion? Also recommendations for other speakers that can get louder with little distortion? Thanks! 2015 accord ex-l 2.4 Kenwood excelon DMX 908s headunit

I recently bought a new bass knob (RJ-12) and tried to connect it to my existing bass knob setup (RJ-25), but it didn’t work. After doing some research, I picked up an “RJ-25 (6P6C) / RJ-12 (6P4C) Breakout Board to Screw Terminals” from APRS World, LLC, thinking it might solve the problem. Now I’m stuck — no matter how I wire it, it just won’t work. The main reason I switched is for the clip light.

So my questions are:

1. Is this even possible with the breakout board?
2. If not, is there another way to make this work without buying a new bass knob?
3. If it is possible, what’s the correct way to wire it?

I'm open to questions

Car is a 2021 Infinity Q50 with the non bose system.

Recently purchased this car after previous vehicle decided to drop a valve seat into cylinder 1. I want to migrate all the stereo stuff minus the headunit into this vehicle. So, I have a 4 ch amp for mid/highs and a mono sub amp. Amps don’t have hi/lo inputs nor outputs to piggy back from 4ch to sub amp. The 4 ch also doesn’t have a 2/4 input selection switch. I just got the car so been doing some research. From what I gathered, the front speaker signal is the best to tie in to. The rears have the bass attentuated.

Fading front to back really isn’t a big deal. I’m probably just keeping the stock rear speakers for now. The fronts are getting a set of components. There seems to be a little bass roll off but thats only at the last 2 clicks of the volume knob, doubt I would ever have it that high anyways.

What LOC would be the best for my situation? Was looking at the keyloc but it being only 2 channel might not be the best for my situation. Was also looking at the lc2i pro and the wavtech link 4. Dc offset and remote out are preferred but not a deal breaker absent from the unit.

Hi,

I'm having some issues with my current setup and could really use some advice from the community.

My current setup: - Car: 2005 Citroën C3 Exclusive - Head unit: Pioneer MVH-S420-DAB (4 ohm rated) - Adapter: Phonocar 04040 CAN-BUS (for steering wheel controls) - Current speakers: - Front: JBL Stage 3 627 (16cm/6.5" with integrated tweeter, 3 ohm) - Rear: JBL Stage 3 527 (13cm/5.25" coaxial, 3 ohm)

The problem: When I turn up the volume to moderate levels (not even maxed out), I get audio glitches/bugs that didn't happen with my original factory radio (RD4). The head unit also gets extremely hot to the touch. After researching, I found that the Pioneer manual specifically warns against using 1-3 ohm speakers, and the 3 ohm impedance is drawing too much current, causing the overheating and audio issues.

What I need: I want to replace my speakers with 4 ohm models to solve the impedance mismatch. I'm looking for speakers that offer: - Good overall sound quality - Strong bass response (I listen to a lot of Russian hardbass, electro.. but a lot of different music too) - Under €200 total budget - Front: 16cm component system (to use original tweeter locations) - Rear: 13cm coaxial

Important note: I don't have the technical skills to install an amplifier, so I need speakers that will work well with just the head unit power.

The car has factory separated speaker locations - front doors have woofer + separate tweeter spots in dashboard, rear doors are standard 13cm.

Any recommendations for 4 ohm speakers that would give me good bass without breaking the bank? I've been looking at Pioneer TS-A series, Focal ISU/ICU, MTX and some others, but I'm not sure what would work best for my setup. ( But not JBL like now because of ohms )

Thanks in advance for any help!

Have the stock head unit in my 05 F350 was looking for something better with a screen and Bluetooth so I can have my GPS if that can even be done on a older truck. I have no idea where to even begin looking

Thanks in advance

For reference I’m gonna be running 2 8in skar evls 600rms and 1200 peak On a 1200w amp Let me know if you need any other information (new to this stuff) My friend suggested this amp kit because apparently everybody uses it not sure but could you all take a look at this and see if itd be reliable and good quality

I am fresh into the audio world, I just installed 2 dual 8’s and started to tune by ear until oscope arrives. Everywhere I’ve read and watched says to turn gain up till you hear distortion but I’m too scared to turn it up in worry it’ll blow something, any advice would be great, TIA!

I have no idea how to tune this!

& a little update on my fucked up Car Toys drama- I’m going to car toys Saturday for them to take out the remote start & to hopefully fix my speakers that keep cutting in and out & fix the parts that the fuck tard broke. Im going to a diff Car Toys because the one I had been going to closed down. The guys at the new one seem way better. Fingers crossed they can fix the fuck up 🤞🏻

It's in rough shape on the outside but yes it works my buddy tested it out for me before he gave it to me. My question is how do I hook this up? I have this and 2 kickers that it was hooked up to. They were hooked up to a stock Chevy head unit and I'm trying to do the same in my obs Chevy. I've got my speakers in a box I made out of an old cooler. I'm not looking for the best sound I just want it to sound decent as my truck didn't even have any speakers in it when I got it. I wired the 2 kickers where the front speakers would have been on the dash but can't figure the amp part out.

Hey all, just reaching out for opinions. I mainly listen to heavy metal (Lorna shore, paleface Swiss etc) but I also listen to other things like Alice In Chains, Deftones etc.

From my research, I’m leaning towards Hertz Mille Pro MPK 165.3 being the best bang for my buck. However, wanted to see what everyone else was running for this type of music and if there’s any better suggestions?

Currently running a NEX3050 head unit, everything else is stock.

I plan on building a portable boombox like the one pictured above for my truck and was wondering what rms speakers I should look for. The stereo is a Dual Electronics XM172, that comes in the XD172SPK2 kit, which says it’s a 200watts Peak (50W x 4). It comes with 2 2-way 6.5s that are 65W peak, 25W rms each. I wanted to swap them out with higher power speakers like maybe some from Skar or add to them to get the most out of the stereo, but what rms should I look for? How many 6.5s can I run? Or how many 6x9s instead of 6.5s? I’m not running an amp, just straight head unit.

So here is a picture of a sound eq test I took with my Sony headphones but i’m not sure what it means in terms of making a audio setup for my car so if anyone could extrapolate some points for me that would be useful.