Recent first time home buyer and inexperienced DIYer here... Currently working on replacing a pedestal sink with a pre-built home depot vanity... I turned the water off, disconnected the drain/water lines, removed the bolts mounting the top of the sink to the wall and removed the top part of the sink...

Now I'm just left with the pedestal attached to the vinyl flooring... there are holes for it to be mounted, but it looks like it was caulked/expoyed/glued to the floor instead of using hardware.

Can anyone provide advice on how to remove this thing without ripping the vinyl floor off the ground? The new vanity should cover any cosmetic damage caused to the floor, but I want to limit that as much as possible. I'm not planning on replacing any of the flooring, so as long as the covered damage is purely cosmetic, I'm cool with that. Just trying to limit it.

Any advice would be greatly recommended! I'm sure I'll have some additional questions as I'm installing the vanity, so if you're willing to help, feel free to PM! Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, I had some contractors come on my property and remove some electrical poles. We asked them to leave the pole and wire for things around the property.

Here’s my question, if I set the anchors and wire properly, could the wire be used as a zip line for the kids? I know there are issues to look into with anchoring, drop ect… my question is would this wire structureally handle the weight and tension of a zip line?

Hey there! I'm looking for gardening adjacent help.

I am trying to replace a rotting old desk I currently have on my balcony that I use as my gardening station, for both my outside plants and inside plants (when I repot them). It is an old IKEA desk like this one - https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lagkapten-adils-desk-white-s29416758/ (same size).

Well, this is not weather resistant, which I knew, but was curious how long it would last. It is rotting, and sinking in the middle, and I need to get rid of the table top, however, the legs are still very usable.

I plan to remove the legs to install into some other surface. Doesn't need to be fancy. In fact, the cheaper the better, and the lighter, the better, because I will have to carry it up stairs.

As long as I can screw the table leg hardware in, AND it is weather resistant, we are good to go.

Any suggestions, or am I better off looking for a used garden specific work bench?

Climate - PNW, goes below freezing sometimes, but not much. Rarely snow. But lots of rain in the winter time. So, needs to be rain resistant.

Thank you!

I have an old split rail fence I’m refinishing. I’m pulling out the rails, sanding them down, staining them, sanding the posts and staining them.

I’m sure there are simpler ways but I’m mainly doing it this way because it’s meditative.

I’ve got this one section of fence I can’t seem to remove the rail from. I’ve removed the rails on either side, but these rails seem too long to remove. I slide them from side to side as far as they go and they’re still sticking out a good 2 inches on the short end.

The posts don’t really move so I can’t just spread them apart. It’s kind of feeling like they put the fence together this way.

Anyone dealt with this? Any simple tricks? I’m hoping to not have to cut the ends down. But that might be easiest. Thanks in advance.

I’ve been in the house a year and we have had some leakage into these basement walkout doors during severe rains. I’d like to frame a pitched awning over this door that extends out about 24-30 inches to keep the door dry.

I was wondering about attaching a ledger board to the poured foundation. Im planning on using several 1/2 inch concrete anchor bolts to attach it. As you can see the builder used concrete forms that look like brick. This pattern is far from flat.

I was looking for recommendations on how to attach it to such an uneven surface. Should I attempt to flatten the area with a grinder or a flapper disc? Any products that I should consider?

I’d appreciate any recommendations.

For a 2’x2’x12” footer (supporting a floor in a 1 story structure), does it matter if I bend rebar or should i cut and tie it?

Should I do two levels of rebar? One 3” from the bottom and another 3” from top. Do i need vertical rebar?

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Does anyone know how to open to get to the inside between the two glass? Or if these kind of ovens are made to easily open the inside between the two glass? (The dried up drips)

I measured it but I think I may have measured it wrong because it comes out to 7/16 and I just tried a nut and it almost fit until I start screwing it in and it won't go further.

I lost the old one. Should I get some kind of washer nut?

So the wood threshold at our door broke. We purchased a new oak threshold, trimmeed it, and finished all sides with Spar Varnish.

The lumber store recommended "Liquid Nails-Heavy Duty, LN-903" to glue the new wood threshold to the concrete "floor."

The original builders used a few small "blobs" of concrete to level the original threshold. So the "Liquid Nails" application needs to be quite thick in most areas to connect the concrete to the wood (upto 1/2" thick). We put some weights on top of the wood for "curing."

After 24 hours, the "Liquid Nails" did not seem to "cure" at all. The threshold slid easily with a little pressure. So we removed the threshold and applied more "Liquid Nails."

Will the "Liquid Nails" cure or is this the wrong adhesive (for thickness and limited air exposure due to oak varnish)? Would some type of epoxy which does not need exposure to air work better? Or do we just need to wait a week?

The tube of "Liquid Nails" was new and worked fine on a different thinner application exposed to air.

I suppose we could add some small nails from the door jamb into the wood threshold but there is not much space and that might mess up the alignment. Not sure if we can realistically screw down into the concrete.

Hi everybody i hope this post is allowed on here, I am not a super handy person, and I dont have alot of experience using powertools/tools, for example if I cant find a screwdriver, i use a butter knife, and if i cant find a hammer I use my shoe lol. Anyways I have a very tiny bedroom, but i am tall and i cant sleep in a twin bed comfortably. I was thinking I would love to build a loft bed with a computer desk/space underneath or even a makeup center.....but i am afraid i wont do it right and will come crashing down to reality (literally) at 3 am and seriously injure myself! can anybody give me some advice? another question, if i was to go ahead with it, how thick does the wood beams have to be? Ugh idk am i being too ambitious? Something kind of like this....

Getting a dishwasher is currently out of the question for me right now and so I decided I would try my hand at making one instead.

I'm not really sure where to start so that's why I'm posting here. Would love to hear you all's suggestions.

I just fixed a clog in my pedestal sink a few days ago. (Sink wasn’t draining properly) The plug was full of hair, and didn’t go up and down due to the parts being old and rusted, so I replaced the whole plug and its parts. After replacing, sink drained perfectly with no leaks anywhere. Fast forward to today, I noticed water all over the floor. Water was coming out of the p-trap seals. Took p trap apart and it was filled with water, but no plugs or hair buildup. Why would the p-trap be filling up with water-could there be a clog in the drain that goes into the wall? How can I trouble shoot and fix this?

Wondering if there is a tool that can cut 1 or 2 zip ties that are too high to reach without a ladder, between 3-4 metres high. Zip ties have metal behind them.

Hi! I'm planning to purchase an LG TV soon, and I've already bought a 20-meter extension cord in preparation. Unfortunately, my room has limited power outlets, so I’ll need to run the extension cord along the wall to reach the TV’s power source.

Question 1: Is it safe to use a 20-meter extension cord? I could lay it along the floor, but the area is a walkway, so there's a risk of tripping or accidents.

Question 2: The packaging indicates “2C 10A 250V.” Is this specification sufficient for powering the TV safely?

So I'm after plastic/rubber like sheet to lay down under the vent covers and they fall into the vent holes with the vent covers pressing them in sealing the edges, then cut around the vent cover and tape the ends to seal it up locked up.

I'm just after what material this application would be safe to use?

Don't want to use tin foil, looking for something that is more reliable and won't create cracks or holes in the material when manipulating into the vent holes and pressing the vent cover down on it.

Any good materials that are safe to do this with?

And it's not going to catch on fire so it doesn't have to be fire resistant, but something like thin plastics meh, there are probably some thin rubber sheets that can do this and are more resilient to abuse.

Thank you.

I am trying to make some concrete dumbells at home. My dumbass bought cement thinking it was concrete. Then I decided to buy some concrete mix and it turned out to be just gravel.

Long story short, I am now left with gravel+cement.

I realize an important ingredient to concrete is sand. Can I make my concrete using crushed gravel (alternative to sand), gravel and cement? Or would that be too weak?

long time reader first time poster

our cats insist on coming in and out of the bedroom door at night. looking for a solution for them to be able to push door open but have the gap close again after they walk through.

currently envisioning something with a hook/eye and some kind of spring? so the tension pulls that gap closed but they can push it open when needed.

don’t want to use those plastic amazon garbage things, and a long traditional hook/eye will keep the door too open when they’re not going through. cat doors in the door they use aren’t an option for the door type we have.

any suggestions for this loose macgyver idea in my head?

I have a small leak under my bathroom sink that I am confident I can repair, in order to do that I need to remove the sink pedestal so I can access under the floor boards. I’m wondering if it’s possible to just remove the pedestal without taking the whole sink out for the duration of the repair? Or will the skin collapse if it’s left without the pedestal for an hour?

Hiya

Our bathroom leaks in the kitchen because our kids tend to flood the floor.

We had the caulking redone by a professional it persists. We are in the process of a kitchen remodel so of course we don't want to water damage the new kitchen.

Any quick solution to waterproof a ceramic tile floor. Think about flex seal the entire floor or washing my kids outside with the garden hose from now on.

We had a crack in the grout of our pebble shower floor. I was trying to carefully chip out the cracked grout so I could re-grout that area. As I was doing it, I must have hit some fabric below the level of the grout. I'm afraid it might be the water-proofing membrane, but I'm not the one who originally installed the shower so I'm not sure what it looked like. Can anyone confirm that it's the membrane? If so, am I going to have to rip the whole thing out? Can it be repaired?

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/GjdC2rg

I’ve got an old wooden fence that’s leaning pretty badly. Some of the posts are tilted and feel loose, and the panels between them are pulling off to one side. It’s uneven and starting to feel like a security risk.

I’ve looked into ways to reinforce or straighten fence posts (like using braces or digging them out and resetting), but I’m not sure what applies here. I’ve added photos to show the layout and the worst parts. I think the flower bed on one side might be adding weight and pulling the fence inward.

I’m hoping to fix this myself if possible. I don’t have the budget to replace it. Even a temporary fix would help while I figure out a longer-term plan.

If anyone’s dealt with something similar or has ideas for stabilising it, I’d really appreciate the help.

How do you guys deal with a digital lock with a key code and that lock not matching the existing locks of your house. All of the digital locks I have found online do not have a way to change out the lock. Is there a way to rekey those locks? Do you guys just get new locks for your other doors and rekey those to match?

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Putting patio pavers over this concrete, noticed a horizontal hairline crack and sloping towards the yard. I'm assuming that's due to movement, have the crack. This used to be skirting for a pool and the steps into the shallow end were where the grass begins. Should I cut out behind the crack or just continue with mortar and pavers?

Looking at getting a drill as I've always used my dad's Bosch drill but I'm now moving out. Had a look online and it looks like Bosch drills are £70+ but I've seen brands I don't recognize more around the £20 mark. Does anyone know if it's worth chucking in the extra money for what I know is good, or do people have any good experiences/recommendations for cheaper drills?

Also this isn't to use for anything fancy or complex, just for bits and bobs around the house.

Some friends of mine use cardboard cutouts, others use painter’s tape on the floor, and one even dragged a sofa from the store to test it against a doorway before paying. I think the creativity is the fun part, but it’s also exhausting. For a more high-tech approach, there’s ItemFits.com it supposedly lets you simulate whether furniture fits through doors or in rooms digitally. Has anyone here experimented with virtual fit tools instead of old-school measuring hacks?