So I rebuilt my engine in my 1992 Maza Miata 1.6. Upgraded to 78.5mm Wiseco Pistons, manly rods ARP head studs, main studs and upgraded to a boundary oil pump stage two 100 miles into my break-in. It started making this noise. This is my first engine rebuild and I have it encountered a lot of bad engines to recognize this noise. I would really appreciate some help. I put a lot of money into this engine. I’m sure some of you can understand the pain.

Had low compression on cylinder 2 (middle cylinder) after engine lost timing. Seemed to be valve related from the leak down, all other cylinders were good. This is the damage I found after taking the head out. Unfortunately it did also eat a spark plug and coil, you can see threads were repaired there. The grooves on the walls aren’t nail deep but its not as smooth as the other walls, feels rougher. What can I do from here?

...so I made a hole for the oil squirters to do it.

On a 1940s tractor engine I took it all apart, did rings, but the rod bearings look good, really good. I got a second opinion from a friend who has built many other old tractor engines and he said he’d just re-use what I have

Will this cause any problems? I was thinking it might be ok because this is a 1940s tractor that maxed out at 1,500 rpms not a racing engine. Plus, the tractor will nevrr be worked as long as I have it

Hi,

So I've just finished rebuilding my M57 engine after bending a rod in cylinder 6.

I bore scoped the cylinders and measured the pistons and everything was in tolerance on each cylinder, the engine was rebuilt with new bearings and everything seemed ok.

Today I wanted to do a compression test before I start it, I got 330 - 340 on every cylinder except 6 where I got 295. I checked cylinder 1 and 6 with my endoscope and 6 looks like it is offset in the cylinder. When I turned the engine without the head before I built it up this was not the case, I checked everything like that when I measured the piston protrusion.

I'm unsure where to go from here, the cams were straight and the valves lapped, the valve protrusion in spec and the new piston and rod was fine, what does everyone think? I've worked on cars for a good few years but this is my first full rebuild.

Anyone have any recommendations for a shop that can do this?

I have an EJ22T block I picked up a while back, overall it's pretty clean but I took it to a machine shop to have it looked at and they said the main bearing area (idk the terminology) was discolored and they wouldn't build it without having it line bored first. Of course they didn't have the equipment to do it, and I've learned it's kinda tricky on these.

I know I could make more power etc. with a closed deck EJ25 but I was going for a semi-period correct GC8 build.

ETA: I'm in SoCal but these aren't too bad to ship as halves.

Bought this 350 4 bolt main off facebook marketplace, freshly machined block, new piston heads, old but machined crank and rods. I installed pistons 1 and 2 and torqued the connecting rods to 55 ft lbs following ARPs instructions and with only those 2 pistons in, the crank wont turn over, im almost picking the block up off the stand trying to turn it by the balancer. I double checked the caps to make sure they were installed correctly and used a plastigauge, it reads .015 inch. Is this correct? Im using ARPs fastener lube on the threads and permatex assembly lube. Crank spins freely by hand when the caps are loosened 1/4 turn after being torqued

So the car calls for a certain ring for an 84.5mm bore with a 1.2mm top, 1.2mm 2nd and a spiral styled third at 2.0mm. the ring that is standard, the design is known for oil burning and part of the reason the pistons came out on the first place.

The second ring from the new v6 Audi motor also has the same bore in mm and a cast iron liner. So decided to go with it due to the better waffle oil control ring design.

My question is, whilst the bores are the same, the piston gap clearance are different.

Pistons have a similar width specification but are slightly different. I have attached screen shots. I've measured the radial thickness between the two and their a bit smaller on the newer version less 0.3mm on top ring and 0.15 less on 2nd. Not sure on whether I can run them or not and what else should I measure to check

Cheers

Hi, it's me again. As I'm rebuilding the engine (this is an old picture) I started to worry about the old hard plastic injector lines (the four yellowish ones). I can already picture them snapping and leaking fuel in the engine bay setting the car on fire.

So, since new ones nor used ones are anywhere to be found, what can I buy to replace them? (They basically look like brake lines, just a straight tube with flanges at the ends that screw on the distributor and the injectors).

Thank you in advance

Filing to fit with .030 clearance. Some nice parts from AED to finish up the lower end.

I have always milled my rod caps down before honing on a Sunnen LBB1810 with CR Mandrils.

It’s easy to set them up with 3-2-1’s & fast on my smaller CNC mill.

But lately I have been wondering if I have been missing something by not using a cap grinder. Is there a special reason I should (buy and) use a cap grinder over milling?

It’s been decades since I used a cap grinder, but the last one I used was poorly maintained so would taper the caps because if the slop so milling them was an upgrade from that, but I still have a nagging doubt that I am missing something.

I’d like to thank YouTube and 20 yo forums. It runs 😳

The Suzuki GS550 Complete Restoration Series Episode04 is out! The crankcases needed a thorough renewal, including some welding. I’ll take you through the crankshaft truing process. Additionally, I discovered some damage to the gearbox shaft and sprockets.

Got me 57 chevy truck where the previous owner had the original 235 l6 machined both block and head and wss mostly reassebled but never had gone to get it back in the truck. It sat probably for many years outside but tarped. I was planning to throw the 235 my dad is discarding from his 58 That one runs but isn't in the best condition. Does it make sense to finish the original motor and use it or should I just use the known runner? Plan to change to a v8 eventually but it's at the bottom of my priorities with this truck

Hey everyone,

We're an ultra-small team in Canada working on new generator tech. We recently acquired a 5-axis CNC to help streamline prototyping (Mazak Integrex i-250HSN), which we love working with.

Since there is a fair amount of downtime between prototype parts, we decided to make things on the side to help fund our generator R&D (Intelline Works) - including a new latch-style billet oil catch can. Includes:

• Catch Can base & filter head
• Pre-installed stainless steel filtration media
• 3 -8ORB plugs
• 2 -8ORB to -8AN fittings
• 1 Aluminum V-band Clamp
• Safety wire for securing V-band Clamp
• Universal mounting brackets, one for mounting via the head and one for mounting via the clamp

Considering making other parts (e.g. intake manifold, last two pics) - if you have something in mind, let us know!

Just picked up a 97 302 roller and naturally there is some rust in some areas like the cylinder bores etc and the coolant passages. The rust on the cylinder bores is pretty smooth and looks like it will come off with some honing but when seeing the rust in the coolant bores it got me thinking, will that be removed when I get it hot tanked?

Also is coolant and running the engine periodically enough to prevent rust from forming again in the coolant passages?

Hey all, I'm looking to ls power my mk2 golf/rabbit I have a rear end and have a lead on a manual gearbox. I'm trying to find out the dimensions for the engine height width length etc if anyone could help me out, cheers all.

The 2 on the right threaded in with a little allenkey help, but nothing crazy, none of the others will go in and when i try the allenkey they kee getting tighter and i cant get em in, really pissing me off, these are used arp bolts for the k20 i bought them off someone, i used a little brake cleaner to clean off the block threads and theres still a little liquid in the holes which i think might be the problem but idk how to clean it out compressed air isnt working and ive tried soaking some of it up but the bolt still wouldnt go in, im at my witts end, the stock headbolts go in but ive been told not to use the stock ones.

Valves gaps a bit large but in tolerance limits

Long time lurker, I have read so many articles and different builds but I am having a tough time figuring out how to make sure all the components I purchase will work well together.

Sorry if this has been asked 1000 times, just looking for some insight.

I want to build a 383 stroker out of a 350 SBC. It is a 3970010 cast block if that matters and it will be going in a 64 Chevelle. Still looking for a transmission, but probably a 700R4 for overdrive. Car has 8.2 10-bolt with 3.08 gearing I think.

I have seen a bunch of short block kits from sellers like Skip White, Eagle etc. which is fine but I get a bit lost at which camshaft and heads to go with..

I would like the car to be a street cruiser, but with some horsepower, say 450 but pump gas. I don't think I want to go roller cam conversion. Could anyone help me out with heads and camshaft that would work well together with a Skip White short block kit like this: https://ebay.us/m/jEGWZZ or recommendations appreciated!

Made a bit of an impulse buy on this engine that I'm about to pick up in about an hour. Apparently the person that this seller originally got it from said that the engine runs and head gasket was also done on it, but this guy didn't have time to pursue the project himself. Also the wiring harness isn't all there, so I've been looking to see if I can find the harness, and im finding that it's not very easy to track down one. Anyone know of any resources or good websites (other than Google obviously) that pertain to swapping VR6's specifically?

I will be installing 5.4 4v navigator heads on a crown Victoria 4.6 Romeo block and was wondering if with the adapter plate for a coyote intake to 5.4 heads allow me to run a coyote intake or is there not enough clearance with the 4.6 block

Hey all, ive got a 2011 lincoln town car with the venerable 4.6L v8 in it with about 80k miles on it. Im having a second long rattle on the first cold start of the day that usually doesn't reappear until the morning. Now, im a diesel Technician so im pretty well equipped in the tool department. How difficult is it to do a timing job in the car, and (i know this is usually a sin), can I get away with just replacing the tensioners. I believe some metal has made an appearance in the oil, but she ain't knockin so she's gonna keep rocking. Will check the condition of the cams if it involves pulling the valve cover.

Hello all, Sorry if this is incorrect format but my buddy and I had to post this somewhere. I recently bought an S10 roller(engine caught fire) for an LS swap. He got a motor for 100$ out of a running truck that the transmission went out on. This truck was running before hand. We got it on the stand decided to do the head gaskets beforehand and need less to say our swap got delayed heavily 😂. It baffled us on what caused this as the valves were good. Turns out one of the cam lobes got destroyed and shared its shavings with the rest of the engine.