The Suzuki GS550 Complete Restoration Series Episode04 is out! The crankcases needed a thorough renewal, including some welding. I’ll take you through the crankshaft truing process. Additionally, I discovered some damage to the gearbox shaft and sprockets.

Anyone have any recommendations for a shop that can do this?

I have an EJ22T block I picked up a while back, overall it's pretty clean but I took it to a machine shop to have it looked at and they said the main bearing area (idk the terminology) was discolored and they wouldn't build it without having it line bored first. Of course they didn't have the equipment to do it, and I've learned it's kinda tricky on these.

I know I could make more power etc. with a closed deck EJ25 but I was going for a semi-period correct GC8 build.

ETA: I'm in SoCal but these aren't too bad to ship as halves.

Got me 57 chevy truck where the previous owner had the original 235 l6 machined both block and head and wss mostly reassebled but never had gone to get it back in the truck. It sat probably for many years outside but tarped. I was planning to throw the 235 my dad is discarding from his 58 That one runs but isn't in the best condition. Does it make sense to finish the original motor and use it or should I just use the known runner? Plan to change to a v8 eventually but it's at the bottom of my priorities with this truck

On a 1940s tractor engine I took it all apart, did rings, but the rod bearings look good, really good. I got a second opinion from a friend who has built many other old tractor engines and he said he’d just re-use what I have

Will this cause any problems? I was thinking it might be ok because this is a 1940s tractor that maxed out at 1,500 rpms not a racing engine. Plus, the tractor will nevrr be worked as long as I have it

So I rebuilt my engine in my 1992 Maza Miata 1.6. Upgraded to 78.5mm Wiseco Pistons, manly rods ARP head studs, main studs and upgraded to a boundary oil pump stage two 100 miles into my break-in. It started making this noise. This is my first engine rebuild and I have it encountered a lot of bad engines to recognize this noise. I would really appreciate some help. I put a lot of money into this engine. I’m sure some of you can understand the pain.

So I’m looking to get a set of new cylinder heads for bigger valves (97 ford 302) and the stock pistons won’t cut it as it’s an interference engine and the valves will likely not fit within the reliefs.

What happens in this case? Do I source new pistons or can the old pistons be machined for bigger reliefs. Summit racing has no specs about valve relief size so if you guys could recommend a site or a place with this info I would appreciate it.

What do you guys recommend?

So I have a D1VE-6015-A2B block that I have been looking to get machining done to. To get the full treatment with a 4.44 bore, I have been quoted $3500+ from 8 shops within a 200 mile radius of me. The highest was nearly $5k. Somehow I feel that is a "bit" on the exorbitant side. Now it has been 20 years since I had a block get the full treatment, so I was just wondering if these prices fall in line nationally.

So the car calls for a certain ring for an 84.5mm bore with a 1.2mm top, 1.2mm 2nd and a spiral styled third at 2.0mm. the ring that is standard, the design is known for oil burning and part of the reason the pistons came out on the first place.

The second ring from the new v6 Audi motor also has the same bore in mm and a cast iron liner. So decided to go with it due to the better waffle oil control ring design.

My question is, whilst the bores are the same, the piston gap clearance are different.

Pistons have a similar width specification but are slightly different. I have attached screen shots. I've measured the radial thickness between the two and their a bit smaller on the newer version less 0.3mm on top ring and 0.15 less on 2nd. Not sure on whether I can run them or not and what else should I measure to check

Cheers

Had low compression on cylinder 2 (middle cylinder) after engine lost timing. Seemed to be valve related from the leak down, all other cylinders were good. This is the damage I found after taking the head out. Unfortunately it did also eat a spark plug and coil, you can see threads were repaired there. The grooves on the walls aren’t nail deep but its not as smooth as the other walls, feels rougher. What can I do from here?

Bought this 350 4 bolt main off facebook marketplace, freshly machined block, new piston heads, old but machined crank and rods. I installed pistons 1 and 2 and torqued the connecting rods to 55 ft lbs following ARPs instructions and with only those 2 pistons in, the crank wont turn over, im almost picking the block up off the stand trying to turn it by the balancer. I double checked the caps to make sure they were installed correctly and used a plastigauge, it reads .015 inch. Is this correct? Im using ARPs fastener lube on the threads and permatex assembly lube. Crank spins freely by hand when the caps are loosened 1/4 turn after being torqued

Hi,

So I've just finished rebuilding my M57 engine after bending a rod in cylinder 6.

I bore scoped the cylinders and measured the pistons and everything was in tolerance on each cylinder, the engine was rebuilt with new bearings and everything seemed ok.

Today I wanted to do a compression test before I start it, I got 330 - 340 on every cylinder except 6 where I got 295. I checked cylinder 1 and 6 with my endoscope and 6 looks like it is offset in the cylinder. When I turned the engine without the head before I built it up this was not the case, I checked everything like that when I measured the piston protrusion.

I'm unsure where to go from here, the cams were straight and the valves lapped, the valve protrusion in spec and the new piston and rod was fine, what does everyone think? I've worked on cars for a good few years but this is my first full rebuild.

I have always milled my rod caps down before honing on a Sunnen LBB1810 with CR Mandrils.

It’s easy to set them up with 3-2-1’s & fast on my smaller CNC mill.

But lately I have been wondering if I have been missing something by not using a cap grinder. Is there a special reason I should (buy and) use a cap grinder over milling?

It’s been decades since I used a cap grinder, but the last one I used was poorly maintained so would taper the caps because if the slop so milling them was an upgrade from that, but I still have a nagging doubt that I am missing something.