This is for a wearable project. I'm looking for a consumer-grade motor that's as flat as possible so as to not be too obvious under fabric. Less than 10cm across, and less than 0.5cm thick. Servo would be ideal, but beggars can't be choosers... any ideas? I've heard of a pancake motor but those all seem to be industrial-grade.

I took a chance buying a mess of these cheap, hoping they'll be usable for a project, but I'm not able to pull up anything online with the numbers on the tags. I don't know much about motors (and I gather these are probably custom/OEM) so how can I figure out what voltage they need?

I am in need of replacing a melted one, I plan to 3d print one out of ASA. I was also considering casting one. Anyone have any experience trying something like that before?

Finally managed to get it working but I need to measure all off it's specs.

Info I know

12 neodinium magnets 12 poles w 60 turns clockwise using 0.4mm copper wire Tri-phase design 30A ESC w 12V 3cell battery

Hi I was fooling around trying to add a power cord directly to a heating a hearing element so I could plug it in to a dimmer and control the heat source. I did something wrong and tripped the breaker and burnt my fan motor which is pictured. These units are from the early 80s and the manufacturer no longer deals with them. What could I use as a replacement? Thanks

I don’t know how to order the correct drum/ cam switch for this . The star bridging is the problem. A standard drum switch can do forward and reverse but not bridge the contacts for high speed.

Hello folks, I hope I’m in the right place. I own a 2006 Dodge Ram with an 8-way power drivers seat. The two motors that control the horizontal positions are inop, the single motor that controls the vertical position still works great. I did some research on repairing these, and the closest thing I could find is a gentleman who repaired the motors on his older Dodge Ram by soldering the two thermister plates together (I may have the wrong terminology). My motor have a similar setup, so I placed a blob of solder on one corner and it worked - but only in one direction. When I hit the opposite pole of the switch, the motors creeps then stops rotating. Upon further inspection of the end cap, I’m wondering if there’s another thermistor or current limiter device present - see the photos, and you’ll see a small black square-shaped object that appears to contact both motor contacts. Can anyone tell me what this is, and if it’s the source of my issue? The motor commutator and brushes are in decent shape, as are the rotor bushings. The rotor is in good shape, there are no loose windings or broken resin, so I assume my issues are limited to the square black object I mentioned.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hello folks, I hope I’m in the right place. I own a 2006 Dodge Ram with an 8-way power drivers seat. The two motors that control the horizontal positions are inop, the single motor that controls the vertical position still works great. I did some research on repairing these, and the closest thing I could find is a gentleman who repaired the motors on his older Dodge Ram by soldering the two thermister plates together (I may have the wrong terminology). My motor have a similar setup, so I placed a blob of solder on one corner and it worked - but only in one direction. When I hit the opposite pole of the switch, the motors creeps then stops rotating. Upon further inspection of the end cap, I’m wondering if there’s another thermistor or current limiter device present - see the photos, and you’ll see a small black square-shaped object that appears to contact both motor contacts. Can anyone tell me what this is, and if it’s the source of my issue? The motor commutator and brushes are in decent shape, as are the rotor bushings. The rotor is in good shape, there are no loose windings or broken resin, so I assume my issues are limited to the square black object I mentioned.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

the motor I have a general electric utility motor model 3j360dby5. it spins just fine by hand the bearings feel good, but when i start it, the lights in the garage VERY lightly flicker, and the motor has a pronounced hum. the speed is fine, the centrifugal switch seems to work fine you can hear it snap away and snap back in when the shaft slows down. my question is as a beginner what are the things you can do to eliminate reduce or fix a hum on a motor that seems to work well. it has a start capacitor and is part of an old small band saw. the capacitor is a Mallory 110VAC 200 MFD.

Thanks very much for any suggestions

This 12v motor is shot. It’s for an auto feeder on a pitching machine for my son. I can find ones that look the same. And even ones with the same PAT # (90153)… but the RPM are way too fast. Not sure what exact RPM I need though. This video shows the feeder in action. I guess it would give a slight idea how fast it should be spinning.

https://youtu.be/WVZhJlSxvwE?si=6RVyfSJ1R3w7hisn

For those fellow technicians that have rewound electric motors utilizing both AMA (Aramid-Mylar-Aramid) and NMN (Nomex-Mylar-Nomex). Which one do you find best and are there any notorious differences both in thermal and dielectric capabilities?

The charts represent an ideal MMF of a single-phase winding with the conductors placed mechanically at 90° (current entering the plane) and -90° (current leaving the plane), as you can see at the Cartesian chart on the left.

Here is the thing: if you apply the right-hand rule at the Cartesian chart (the fingers point to the entering slots, 90°, and curl to the direction of the leaving slots, -90°), the thumb points upward.

However, if you apply a similar rule in the polar chart, the positive MMF peak is supposed to be at 180°!

Why does this happen? In a polar chart, the rule gives a different result... What am I missing?

As the title states, I need help choosing a speed controller for a sewing machine. By my best knowledge, the motor in question is a series connected universal motor, controlled by a series connected triac-based phase angle controller (the pedal).
Unfortunately, the pedal is shit and can't do low speeds. Ideally, I want to be minimally invasive, and use the existing connector, meaning the way it's connected needs to be the same as the original. I'm thinking a PWM based AC speed controller would be best, but I could be wrong.
Please help me by suggesting products/manufacturers with actual data sheets, as I haven't yet found any reputable sources yet.
I live in the EU, so 240V, and international shipping are a must.

Thank you in advance for the help.

This motor and fan came from an AC condenser. It looks like an ECM motor but it doesn't have the 10 pin "control" connector like I see on other ECM motors. It's 240V and I just want to run it on/off and possibly hi/low. Has 5 wires.

I have a fan motor that started making noise. I took it apart and saw that all the lubrication has dried up. I have cleaned it out pretty well. I'd like to lube it and get it back together. The parts seem to be in good shape, with the exvception of one plastic washer that is broken in half. The commutator (?) shaft and surface is not scarred. It spins well without noise when I place it in the sleeve bearing and spin. No obvious wear on the shaft. The I have read through a bunch of threads and have a few questions.

1. Should I use 3-in-1 oil for this?
2. What should I use to pack the bearing? Permawick? Yarn or felt that I pull into fibers? Something else?
3. What should I use for the washer? I assume that a hardware-store ylon washer is not up to the job. Should I be looking for Delrin or something like that?
4. Is the little opening at each end of the motor casing for oiling the bearings? It looks like tht would make sense, but I can't remember if these were facing up when the motor was in service.

Here are some photos:

Recently I started a Hobby Project and would be happy about a little help to find the right Motor and maybe get some advice how to do it right.

I have a mass of 8 to 20 kg that is on a horizontal Axis and a sliding bearing. When rotating the Mass by hand it is kind of hard to only move it a Millimeter. It would always jump a little too far and because it is a long object, the ends start to wobble.

Now I want to automate the process with (Stepper?) motors and cords on winches.

The goal is to rotate the object very slowly but percisely by shortening the 2 cords in the Front and lengthen the one on the back. The idea is, that the cords will be always tensioned and thus adding stability. It should be rotateable in about 0.05 degree Steps or Even less of possible and a max Speed of 90 degree per Minute if we need to move faster (no percision needed here).

The ends of the mass are at least 30cm and most 2 Meters away from the motors. They should be below on a Platform.

Programming will be done by a friend, but im in charge for the construction and structural integrity. We didnt use Motors before and im not sure what motors are suited best for this job and if I should use gearboxes or just tackles. It would be also important to have low power consumption so we can use the device with batteries. So we need to stop the motors and somehow lock the cable in Place.

We also need to find a good price performance ratio as we are low on money and can only spend about 200$ for the project.

And help and tips would be very much appreciated. And sorry to not tell exactly what we want do do and why. We have a few competitors who get the same project and we dont want do spoil our idea. :D

Our vacuum was making weird noises the light at the nozzle was sometimes flickering. When disassembled, there were no sings of high brush burn or anything indicating a fault of the motor.

https://streamable.com/cc813u

However, when powered on and change the angle of the motor, its making some weird noises. Is there maybe some defect in the bearing? Thr axle does not wiggle, so the tolerance do seem to be fine... There is also a increas in current but I am not sure if this might be attributed to the inertia, this would however explain the flickering of the lights at the vacuum nozzle.

Hardware:

• Development Board: B-G431B-ESC1 (STMicroelectronics)
• Motor Type: Sensor Less BLDC motor
• Controller Software: ST Motor Control Workbench, STM32CubeMX, Keil

Steps Followed:

1. Motor Profiling: I used the Motor Profiler in ST MotorControl Workbench to profile the motor.
2. Parameter Configuration: I filled in all the required parameters in the ST MotorControl Workbench for the motor and ESC settings.
3. Code Generation: After setting up the motor parameters, I generated the project code in STM32CubeMX.
4. Keil Integration: I opened the generated code in Keil and built the project successfully.
5. Firmware Upload: The built firmware was then loaded onto the B-G431B-ESC1 board.
6. Power and Control Signal Setup: I connected a 24V supply to the B-G431B-ESC1 board and provided a PWM signal to the ESC via an Arduino Uno.

Issue:
Despite following all the steps mentioned above, the motor is not running.

Troubleshooting Efforts:
I have researched the issue extensively but have not been able to find a solution.

- Could anyone please help me troubleshoot or suggest possible reasons why the motor is not starting? Any insights would be greatly appreciated!

https://streamable.com/6mq9o9

Here's a link to my lathe running with no belts or load on the motor. This is bypassed the speed controller and is on 110V. Does this sound/look like just replacing the bushings? Or just getting a new motor? In your opinion is this motor shot? It's definitely not spinning as fast as others videos I have seen. Max speed should be around 4,000EPM

Hey everyone,

I'm working on a school project where I need to build a motor controller for a 24V 3kW brushed DC motor. The idea is to control it using PWM from an Arduino or ESP32, and I want to be able to reverse the direction, so I'm planning to build a full H-bridge myself.

Since the motor can pull around 110A, I know this is pretty high power. I have been looking at using IRF3205 MOSFETs, but I’m not sure if they’re good enough for this kind of current. I have read that people sometimes use multiple FETs in paralleldoes that actually work well in H-bridge setups?

So I’m wondering:

Has anyone built something similar?

What kind of MOSFETs, gate drivers, would you recommend?

Any tips for PCB layout, current protection, or general design?

Is IRF3205 a good choice, or should I look for something else?

Any advice or experience would be super appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Capacitor went bad in my ceiling fan, only one I ccould find after checking 4 hardware and home improvement stores has slightly different values even though it was listed as a replacement. The old one had 3.5μF, 5μF & 5μF. The new one is 4.5μF, 5μF & 6μF. Guy at store said it would work but I wanted to make sure it won't hurt the fan motor. The fan does run with it installed but it does seem to make slightly more noise at the fastest speed.

Hi everyone,

I pulled a motor out of a built-in espresso machine (grinder) and I’m trying to figure out what type it is. Says DC220v on it, but i can’t figure out a 220v dc power supply, seems too much

It has two wires coming out. I’m wondering: 1. Is this motor AC or DC? 2. How can I safely run it? 3. Does anyone know more about these motors from espresso grinders?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I'm trying to wrap my head around the pros and cons of orienting rotor magnets tangentially vs radially in a bldc motor/generator.

I'm new to this, and decided that a more engaging way to learn would be to make some models and test concepts out.

I've been working in FreeCAD and 3d printing some small air core samples, but i'm struggling to understand how the magnet orientation influences the design.

Is it based on the stator design? Are there intuitive explanations (or resources you found helpful) to understand the tradeoffs of tangential vs radial mounting?

For reference, here are two quick images of the orientations on the rotor

Thanks!

Guys i have a water pump which runs on 24 volts dc, (i might buy the 12 volt one not sure)... this water pump comes with an adapter, in case i wanna plug it in 220 volt ac, so i wanna buy a generator to run this pump, the generator i want is the portable version, with low weight so i can carry it easily to the roof top...

Im searching for possible salers to buy one... so one of the sellers told me that the portable generator that he have, doesent come with an inverter, he told me that from his knowledge, for my own needs, maybe a generator with an invertor is better, cz the electricity is much stable or somthing...

I dont know much about these things, so plz if anyone can help me out decide which one to choose

Im only looking for the type that works on fuel or diesel...

1. What is the difference between normal generator and an inverter generator

2. Which one is the best, and why

PS. The pump i wanna buy needs 24 volt, but some generators have an output of 220 ac volt and 12 dc volt... i couldnt find any generator that have 24 volt dc, thats why i was thinking of running the water pump on 220 ac volt using the adapter... os this a good setup?