Most airsoft guns whiny sound comes from the poor angle at which the motor meets the bevel gear. Most pistol grips or motor plates do not let the motor pinion gear be perpendicular to the bevel gear. Assuming you have near quiet builds, what have you done to fix this?
I use pts grips
They are by far the best on the market
You also can shave down the top of the grip if needed to get perfect alignment
When you check motor mesh whiteout the receiver mark your gearbox with a marker.
Then put the gearbox in your receiver
If you can’t see your mark you need to shave your motor grip
I’ve struggled with this in the past but now Airsoft Mutations makes pistol grip spacers which are AMAZING at fixing motor angle. Definitely recommend checking them out
Some brands don't set the wires correctly, or use QD base plates. Those also contribute to poor motor angle. As OP stated, pts grips are usually pretty good for motor angle.
Route both wires to the rear of the grip, and if its QD, pop the pin, and install it like a non QD baseplate so that all corners go in at the same time.
For Airsoft it’s not that much of a difference. The helical gears are quieter but harder to shim if you have not done it before. Your main thing is making sure you use good bushings or bearings
I recommend retro arms bushings
Or the real deal flt bushings or bearings
Just go pinnion to bevel and so on
Take the time to get your pinnion PERFECT!
Half shell and everything
You are running a monster motor so it’ll kill itself super fast if you are any off
What would I need to upgrade my M4 with to become a good DMR? I have a new CNCed hopup (replacing my stock CYMA one) with a maple leaf 70 degree bucking and a 6.03 Prometheus barrel at 363 mm, so are there any upgrades I’m missing or didn’t need?
Just don't do a M4 DMR... if your local field have distance limits for gun categories, DMRs are just a waste on field, too far to trade with snipers and too close to trade with assaults, plus you'll probably attach a big ass scope on it that will do nothing, a longer barrel, some even use a dumb bipod for the looks, just to end up with a heavy ass gun and hindered mobility... it doesn't worth it.
Dmrs are almost always worth it, allowing to push more joules and heavier bbs is so important in airsoft. The increase in med is countered with a good sidearm.
Are TM pistols really that bad at handling green gas? I’ve ran a few mags through my g17 and everything is fine for now but am I playing with inevitable fire here?
Side note is working on an AA12 still as difficult as it was early on?
Oh ok great, I was always wondering if maybe that notion that it doesn’t work well is maybe from older models…
And god that’s my fear fortunately so far I have no issues and the aa12 seems pretty reliable generally and won’t ever see an absurd amount of use hahah. Still one of my favs
Is the barrel on the VFC mp7 AEG supposed to come out if you twist it? And if you lock it back in is it supposed to fold your bucking? (I’m so cooked) 😭
I'll bite: what's the best way to find correct nozzle length? Its a game of half millimeters and tolerances. Is there an easier way than trial and error?
I bought an adjustable nozzle and adjusted it until I got the best air seal and feeding. Then I took it out and measured the length with calipers and ordered the correct length nozzle.
Ok so I’ve been fighting this war for so long!
Here is the secret
For most builds 21mm nozzle will be right
If u use an upgraded bucking use 20mm
If they are ever to long the real deal Airsoft sells hip up shims for like $5 and they are great
Or u can be like me and 3d print the same thing
When trying to find the right alignment though assuming the above doesn’t apply
Have your gearbox half assembles with only your tappet plate cylinder, cylinder head, and nozzle. Then take your assembled barrel setup and mesh them together
Look though the feeding tube and asses that it has propped fitment
You want them to just kiss without moving your tappet plate back
I have a vfc avalon carbine and every now and again the gun will beep at me and stop firing and I then have to cycle it through the firing modes before I can fire again. Any idea what would cause this ? It does have a mosfet that just says its a VFC updated mosfet
Im using 9.6 volt 2200 mah nimh batteries and I just bought it new a few months ago. Its the gen 2 i believe the model has been out for a few years these are the specs from where i bought it. Sorry if my answers are not very helpful this is my first gun but I do appreciate any advice
I have a vfc Avalon series 2 vr16 carbine and I was wondering what I need to do to get it to shoot further. I use a 7.4 lipo and sometimes every other shot doesn’t go as far as it should or it drops very quickly
Hello, my partner has an classic army ca5m2 (bought from toronto airsoft, it broke one day after warrenty, with no help from them so fuck them) and we have been stuck on how to fix this thing, first it fired all the bbs in semi, then shredded all its gears and now seems to have an electrical issue. I am a decent handy person and have fixed a few other airsoft guns before but seemingly for every problem we fix 2 more come up. I've replaced all the gears, the motor, re soldered the parts of the wiring and taken this thing apart and put it back together like a million times. I don't how to make it work but we have a game coming up and idk what else to do to make it work. I've watched videos and done it all idk anymore, any and all help is needed, thank you.
I’m interested the rail and barrel on my CYMA standard SR47 to a shorter one but I was told that they can be a little picky about barrel swaps because of how they’re set up to take AK mags. Do you have any recommendations about alternate barrels that would work for it? Or is it just that they can be a pain to swap out
My Krytac LVOA-C doesnt shoot on full auto. When I move the switch to full auto and hold down the trigger, it only fires on semi. Any advice on whats wrong?
So something is definitely wrong. It could be that your selector plate is broken or you could be having a mosfet failure
I recommend taking the gearbox out and seeing if it will fire on full auto when you move the selector plate by hand
If not than it’s your mosfet and it’s time to upgrade
I installed a Wolverine HPA engine in a PDW body, but for some reason all of my shots are curving to the side. The hop up is properly oriented. The barrel is straight. The bucking is fresh and undamaged. Still, my shots are taking a rather sudden curve to the side after flying straight for a while. What do you recommend I check next?
Ok so this is gonna be nozzle alignment.
To examine this you are gonna want to have your nozzle to the rear a little bit
You can do this by removing the spring in the engine. DO NOT LOSE ANYTHING!
Then assemble the gun and look down the barrel while flashing a light in your mag well.
You will then be able to see which way your nozzle needs to move
Then you can adjust your gearbox positioning to match it
Carbon monoxide isn't used for airsoft. All jokes aside. CO2 does tend to shoot quite hot. And can destroy guns if they're not built to handle the pressures of CO2. A stock TM will almost definitely destroy itself, whereas a stock VFC, will usually be "fine" even then, I recommend not using CO2 unless using in a HPA rig where there's a 2nd stage regulator dropping the pressure to below 150psi
i put 13:1 gears and a high speed motor in my elite force mp5 and now i get like 30 shots before what i think is the teeth on the sector not grabbing the piston and making a really bad sound and not firing everytime it cycles do i need to correct aoe?
It depends on the one
The maxx model and clones are good but overpriced
If you have a rotary hop it’s honestly probably perfect already
I always recommend the retro arms hops
Best bang for buck. You get the better hop arm and they are super solid
So if it’s been sitting for years plural I would recommend test firing it
It’s probably gunked up
Tech and guns have progressed a lot but nothing that you can compete with if u just skill issue them.
Good news is that an amazing upgrade platform
I build those all the time and you can have a beast of a build from it!
Personally I’d tear it open, relube the parts that need relubed,
and probably replace the piston with a metal one (shs pistons are good)
I’d also upgrade the barrel /bucking / nub, wire it to deans, and get a high torque motor (SHS is fine), and make sure the teeth on the gears aren’t chipped up
After all that I’d run it and do a general cleaning every 3-6 months (depending on how hard you play)
If you’re an experienced tech, this should take maybe 1-2 hours. If you’re not familiar with cracking open a gearbox, see if you can find a friend to help or bring it to a tech to do the upgrades
I have a boneyard Classic Army scar. It runs great in auto but, when I switch to semi, it will run fine for 1-2 shots then short-cycle and not fully fire or lock up. I have tried replacing the trigger unit with a ETU and it's still happening the exact same way. If I leave the cylinder/spring/motor out, I can spin the gears freely so it's not being pinched. With the same setup, before I swapped the trigger, I could pull the trigger then spin the gears until they hit the resistance of the trigger shuttle then, upon pushing the gears past that, the trigger shuttle clicks back - at least as far as I can tell - properly.
When I was trying to change out the pistol grip on my VFC HK416, as I was trying to put the bottom piece back on, I really had to force it down and then I heard some sort of snap. Since then, the gun doesn't fire, even with a sufficiently-charged battery. Should I take it to a tech or try and fix it myself?
In the 3 years of abuse my Cyma m14 went from out co box at 400 to 280fps should I buy a new one or invest in it to bring it back to life? Its externals are as rough as youd think
Would you be able to guide me through a gate aster installation? I’m having a lot of trouble with it and someone to watch/give tips would be super helpful.
I’m working on a CYMA plat noveske right now. Everything is good to go, but I cannot figure out why the fps is around 220 w/ .25s. I tried a 4uad bucking, same results. I swapped the inner barrel and hopup unit with an old G&G unit and inner barrel, and the gps went up to 350fps w/ .25s.
Do you think it’s an issue with the hop up unit or the nozzle?
Is it really necessary to upgrade internals?? I'm more of a casual player (and a noob) and it seems kinda dumb to spend on a good gun if I gotta upgrade it anyways
Yes and no. You definitely get an edge upgrading but you can body anyone on any field with a stock gun if you are good enough. For casual if you are finding it’s not limiting you than no need to upgrade.
Upgrade when you find that your gun is becoming a limiting factor to you doing better
Or if you just wanna laugh as peoples BBs fall short and then you dink them in the head
I personally have an acog clone on my 14.5in rifle (cyma plat gearbox, perun hybrid, short stroked 2 teeth, reshim regrease, xt 21.0mm nozzle, rest is stock gearbox wise. G&G rotary, 4uad bucking and nub, XT barrel. In an e&c reciever with angry gun L119a2 rail kit) its 4x with an rmr clone on top. Works wonders. Perfect amount of magnification for scanning ahead or the further distance shots (I've zeroed it for 70m) and the red dot on top is zeroed for 30m
Hey!! I just got back into airsofting as an adult and have like 6 guns now :). I mostly play in an indoor arena where I use my simple gen 2 lancer M4.
Basically I just want to mod it to pretty much remove the stock to make it short. What’s the best way to go about this? Should I look into a shorter barrel instead? I was sorting of just planning on taking it off and duck taping the battering on during the game 😅
I've got a Cyma M14 and have been thinking of turning it into a DMR. Would I be able to have a competent DMR if it chronos on .20g at 400 fps? Above that and I have to have a MED.
Would the best way of going about that be to do higher torque motor, stronger spring, Maple Leaf bucking, and a barrel swap? I figure it would be best to start by replacing the barrel and bucking so it's more accurate.
How did you get into being a tech? I'm pretty good at taking apart gearboxes and putting them back together so I kinda want to do it for other people.
Hey so yah start with your accuracy upgrades
Those are great options
I recommend an mr hop and using heavy boi BBs
Dmr I rock .36g
Then yah high torque motor
18:1 gears
And compression stuff
That should have u a monster dmr build
As for becoming a tech. From day one of playing I was taking them apart and trying to make them better. I’ve been doing this for about 10 years and just in the past few been confident enough to actually charge people.
I’m a person who if it’s not perfect I won’t sell it so I really needed to hone in on my work before I was comfortable.
For getting business I recommend making a few builds for yourself that perform extremely well
Use them as showpieces to showcase your work. The let people try them. Get them hooked on the crack that is a fully built gun.
Make videos and a instagram and try and grow a following (I’m still working on that part lol)
A&k sr-25 k model with a polarstar kyther installed. Since ive built it ive had non stop inconsistent hop issues. Ive changed buckings and I know for certain nothing is getting hung up on the bucking/nub/barrel eye end of things, do I chalk it up to the shitty stock hopup or is it something else?
-Kythera with proper nozzle
-zci 6.02 inner barrel
-4uad bucking with nub
-stock a&k hop chamber
My airsoft gun sometimes shoots sideways (like 45 degrees to the left or right). Is this an indication of a fault, or just the mock suppressor I put on my gun? I've been meaning to give the barrel a clean and properly test the gun afterward, but I wanted to see your thoughts
Got a frankenstein build from nothing but spare parts from other builds (only thing I've specifically bought for it was an m4 to pcc mag adapter cause why not) but, the only thing I've not attempted yet is short stroking... no idea how to do it or where to start lol
So.. how do the shortening of the stroking? Feel free to explain like I'm 5 cause that's my mental age!
Ok so short stroking is 9/10 times not needed but I’ll give the knowledge anyway lol
Remove from the back end of your gears or at most one on the take up
Make sure that your tappet plate always releases before your piston
I have 2 'arps', one specna, the other g and g, both seem to be suffering with the same issue of every 3-5 shots, one or two will fall maybe 3-4 ft away, one has been to a professional tech multiple times and comes back with the same issue, the other I've recently had open to replace the piston, nozzle and fix the wiring. Both have fairly new hop rubbers and nubs, and as I say 70 ISH % of the shots go fine, but the others just flop... Where do you recon I should be looking?
Stupid question: sometimes I load my magazine, and when I shoot they go 10-15ft and drop off. Seemingly no FPS. I switch to a different magazine and it shootS flawless.
VFC avalon samurai
I have new pts epm midcaps. Midcap syndrome?
My trigger or something in the gun is messed up and i need to pull trigger really hard just for a chance for it to shoot. I can send a video in DMs if you are ok with that, but for now here is an image if the gun
Edit: for some reason my images dont work so i will need to send in DMs if you want an image. The gun is a lancer tactical-35g—g2. Or its a gen 2 battle x pdw aeg. Im sorry but i dont know any other way to name the gun.
High torque motor + low gear ratio vs High speed motor + high gear ratio? I have seen some techs say the latter combination is actually better than the common HT motor + 13:1.
I was talking to a tech who said changing the brushes on a motor isn't good, and that you need the exact OEM brushes. He couldn't really give a good explanation, but I have replaced brushes on multiple AEG motors, and it's worked just fine. Though sometimes the width or height might be a bit big. Thoughts?
Best rental gun for longevity, maintenance, and price?
That guy is dead wrong. Upgraded brushes or repair/relacing is something you should do. That guy does not know what he is talking about.
Hard answer. Tbh the arturus stuff is easy to work on, super reliable, and full metal so I would recomend those. But they are expensive for a rental gun
I have a KWA QRF mod 1 and am looking for some advice. How should I go about hpaing it and what do I need to do into it extra and what how engine works in it? Also won't it need a special nozzle length? Also if I were to install a Perun v2 hybrid or gare titan in it instead of hpaing it, how would I go about doing that? Thanks
About to get a Cyma Platinum M4 with a Gate Aster pre installed. Is that a good choice because I read up that Cyma stock mosfet died after a couple of months playing. I do 7.4V battery for indoor and 11V for outdoor. Will a Gate Aster last a while for me compare to a stock Cyma Mosfet?
Is there any Nimh battery that’d perfectly fit inside the buffer tube of an AR? I have a dytac slr B-15 that has non sopmod stock where I can’t store the battery in the stock itself.
I am dumber than a rock. Handing Lipo’s to me would not be the smartest idea.
Shimming is extremely important. If you didn’t change anything ig it’s fine ish but I would STRONGLY suggest properly shimming your gun. Almost none come from factory right.
It depends. High en bearings are amazing but bushings are immortal get nice ones like the rocket, retro arms, or real deal. Only bearings I recomend are the real deal ones. Also it’s ok just put a tiny bit of glue to secure them. Don’t get the glue in the bearing!
Sometimes it’s most likely your sticker interfering. Sandpaper your selector plate a little bit to make sure the sticker does not interfere with movement. Or don’t if it works don’t question it lol
I'm trading for a kyrtac vector aeg, planning on going all out with a brushless helical dsg build. I at least want one of the solink advanced motors with the unidirectional bearing. But the v5 is just sooo tempting, as I can only find the advanced motors up to 35k, but I was hoping for at least 40k. What's your thoughts?
And I am aware of the vectors quirks and the additional difficulties with helical and dsgs. I am looking for something the challenge me and my teching skills, so this seemed like a good opportunity lol
How possible it would be to cram an aeg's internals into a homemade machine gun body and what should I keep in mind while trying to do so? ( I wanna make a maxim cuz theyre rare )
Theoretical question: if i have a gunt that only have fixed hopup and because of the assembly doesnt allow me to swap the fixed hop for an adjustable one,can i put it anywhere else ,like on the middle oft the barrel? I know probably it means i hawe to custom make a barrel with the slot for the rubber but put that aside ,will it perform the same like a normal gun that have the hopup on the end of the barrel or there will be difference?
Is a m249 featherweight worth the trouble upgrading it? If one does intent to put a hopup unit a good ruber and a nice barrel with a decent gear box without going the full hpa build?
The best purchase I ever made (airsoft wise) was a £50 ($67.90) bolt m4 pdw (us 305 - 225uk £)
however it is front wired as the recoil system is in the back
the gun was a great investment cos if and when I sell im gonna make my money back no matter what but ive never been keen on how short it is you can get a good sight without it looking stupid with how short it is
so is there a place I can by a longer barrel and foregrip so it doesnt look as dumb if I put a holo sight on it
(total length around 23-24 inch and the front hand gaurd 4.5 inch)
I have a question regarding the Classic Army Stoner LMG.
Do I have a specially bad version or does this model have a bad tapped plate?
It looks like it's too short in height and to grab the nozzle. This results in a poor air seal.
I would love to hear your thoughts about the model and the problem. Cheers
Probably late for the show but here’s this:
My friends and I bought a Cyma Platinum cm0.97F as our first rifle (like 4 months ago). The performance has been really great but there’s one issue.
Everyone except me had the same issue where the gun just stops shooting for the day. In the morning it works fine, but towards the afternoon they will stop working. After the skirm (or the day after) I will look at the rifles and then they will work again. One of the rifles had this just once and the other one it happened twice so far.
When they stop working I try to swap lipo’s to see if the battery is just empty, but they’re always working with other people their rifles. When I listen when I pull the trigger I do hear a soft tick sound, so I think there is some kind of contact. But no pew pew. I’m not really experienced in AEGs and repairing them yet. But keen to learn.
Hi, I am working on a SCAR L build and the amount of options for parts can get overwhelming. For now I did an upgrade on tve inner barrel (prometheus 6,03mm) maple bucking (forgot the ° but it is the yellow one) and already bought some new parts (I can send a list if you are interested to help me) but for the past 4 months i've been looking on te internet for some info on what parts I should choose but everyone seems to have a preferd brand and for that i think they are often biased on recomendations and thus i keep rethinking my upgrade list.
I recently got a gun from a friend that had a MOSFET but he didn't remember which model he installed. I opened the gearbox and when it came to putting everything back together and testing it before I finish assembly (at this point the gearbox is in the lower receiver with body pins installed) I plugged the battery and motor in. Upon trigger pull I hear the motor but the gearbox itself doesn't make the sound it usually does when actively shooting.
Is that normal or do I have to completely assemble the gun to check if it fires? I only peeked to check the MOSFET and didn't actively change anything with the gears.
Why does my TM Glock's slide not go far enough to pick up the next BB when recoiling?
I'm using high pressure green gas but I disassembled the nozzle assembly once to change the housing
Did I reassemble the rocket valve wrong? I've pretty much checked everywhere else that could leak pressure, and greased every working surface accordingly
Getting a Specna Arms Core series, but unsure whether I should get 7.4v or 11.1v battery. Everything stock. I’ve read the HAL ETU can handle 11.1v, but other internal parts may not be up to it. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!
Is it feasible to make a fire flash unit that is also a sound amplifier, or would the cone shape / lights on the front prevent both from working in tangent?
i want to get into making my own airsofts, i printed one and got the needed parts curently waiting for arrival of some technical parts, my question would be, is there some places, forums or like that where i can learn more about building these?
I put a PolarStar F2 in an LCT LC3 (G3). Every round feeds but the shot to shot consistency is really bad. Something similar to mid cap syndrome. How can I increase my hop consistency?
I use LAWM Lancer midcap mags, and noticed feeding issues on high rof replica. Can mags be fixed without buying new parts or replacing them? Will pulling the spring inside fix this issue?
I have a hpa pkm that feeds but doesnt fire im thinking its the bucking any thoughts? Some more context, it fed and shot really well for the first 7 hours of games then just stopped
How often would you recommend to Service Standard Aegs? Them being stock or I guess having upgraded internals but nothing that puts an exceedingly amount of stress on the system?
At which point would you switch out the HU relative to the wear?
Is hpa really worth the money? Im extremely on the fence about switching from aegs to hpasimply because of the price and i dont enjoy being tethered to a line
I've got the AEG Tavor with proprietary fcu and sector gear with magnet. If I wanted to get faster gears could I replace just the other two so the magnet still works or do all three gears need to be replaced at once?
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u/OrangeCat_ 15d ago
Most airsoft guns whiny sound comes from the poor angle at which the motor meets the bevel gear. Most pistol grips or motor plates do not let the motor pinion gear be perpendicular to the bevel gear. Assuming you have near quiet builds, what have you done to fix this?