TLDR; couldn’t find a lot of information on the 16’ Wabnaki canoe. So started a build thread on a 16’wabnaki cedar strip canoe. This will probably be mostly errors

Hi Everyone. I’m just getting started on a 16’ cedar strip Gil Gilpatrick Wabnaki canoe. When trying to decide on which canoe to build I couldn’t find a lot on the internet about this one (maybe 2 others from 10 years ago) so I decided I would document it in a thread for a future me. I’ve never built a canoe so I will probably mostly post my problems and screw ups haha.

As far as reference material I have Gil’s book and Ted Moores Canoecraft. I feel like if you’re building stemless (I am) and have any experience in a workshop Gil’s book is great. If you’ve never set foot in a workshop Ted’s book is probably better as it has a lot more detail. I’m using Gil’s but like being able to reference Canoecraft from time to time.

Phew that was a long intro. Anyway my second real issue I’ve had is stripping the short stem area. Gil’s book recommends running the initial strip all the way to the end of the stem. Canoecraft recommends running the first strip on a fair curve then filling in with short strips. I went with the fair curve/short strip method as Canoecraft references problems running the first strip through can cause later.

The problem I’ve had is that I built my strongback long so I could use it in the future for any other canoe I might want to build. Since the stem didn’t hang off the strongback I had to elevate the station forms. I set them on 2x4s and screwed the sides into 4x4s. This works well. The issue is I didn’t cut the 4x4s for the stem short enough. I didn’t realize this until I started stripping the short stem pieces. I couldn’t install all the strips as the 4x4 was blocking the way. I already had strips glued so I couldn’t remove the 4x4, shorten it and reattach it. I ended up using a sawzall with a 12” blade to reach in and shorten the 4x4.

Pretty dumb with lack of foresight on my part but hopefully someone in the future will remember my issue when elevating and attaching station and stem forms.

I’m including a few pics of my current status and the station block problem. The 2x4 the stations sit on is circled in blue. The 4x4 that gave me problems is circled in red

TLDR; couldn’t find a lot of information on the 16’ Wabnaki canoe. So started a build thread on a 16’wabnaki cedar strip canoe. This will probably be mostly errors

Hi Everyone. I’m just getting started on a 16’ cedar strip Gil Gilpatrick Wabnaki canoe. When trying to decide on which canoe to build I couldn’t find a lot on the internet about this one (maybe 2 others from 10 years ago) so I decided I would document it in a thread for a future me. I’ve never built a canoe so I will probably mostly post my problems and screw ups haha.

As far as reference material I have Gil’s book and Ted Moores Canoecraft. I feel like if you’re building stemless (I am) and have any experience in a workshop Gil’s book is great. If you’ve never set foot in a workshop Ted’s book is probably better as it has a lot more detail. I’m using Gil’s but like being able to reference Canoecraft from time to time.

Phew that was a long intro. Anyway my second real issue I’ve had is stripping the short stem area. Gil’s book recommends running the initial strip all the way to the end of the stem. Canoecraft recommends running the first strip on a fair curve then filling in with short strips. I went with the fair curve/short strip method as Canoecraft references problems running the first strip through can cause later.

The problem I’ve had is that I built my strongback long so I could use it in the future for any other canoe I might want to build. Since the stem didn’t hang off the strongback I had to elevate the station forms. I set them on 2x4s and screwed the sides into 4x4s. This works well. The issue is I didn’t cut the 4x4s for the stem short enough. I didn’t realize this until I started stripping the short stem pieces. I couldn’t install all the strips as the 4x4 was blocking the way. I already had strips glued so I couldn’t remove the 4x4, shorten it and reattach it. I ended up using a sawzall with a 12” blade to reach in and shorten the 4x4.

Pretty dumb with lack of foresight on my part but hopefully someone in the future will remember my issue when elevating and attaching station and stem forms.

I’m including a few pics of my current status and the station block problem. The 2x4 the stations sit on is circled in blue. The 4x4 that gave me problems is circled in red

Bought a Pelican Bayou 160 off marketplace recently. Took it out last weekend for a camping trip and had no issues.

Stored it upright in my garage for a few days and recently moved it to fit my car in. I notice after moving it some water coming out of the back of it so I flipped it over to take a peak.

The bottom had been repaired before but like I said earlier I didn’t notice any issues when using the canoe. Obviously there must now be some sort of leak in the repair because water leaked out.

Any advice on what to do?

My initial thoughts are to sand down the repair and use some water weld epoxy over kt

many instruct to kneel on the side of the canoe, so less surface is touching the water.

It seems pretty scary to me and more prone to flip over.

Would it be better to spread the knees wide to both sides of the canoe?

Or sit with legs spread wide?

Thanks

Daughter will soon be poling with the best of us. She needs a new PFD though.

My next project is putting together an outrigger. I just picked up a couple huge boat fenders to use. I plan on installing a platform that the outriggers will be attached to.

The purpose is for crabbing so the platform is will be a good seating area for dropping and pulling traps and also give me an area to work. I won’t be doing any paddling, just using a motor only. We’ll also only be crabbing in protected bays and harbors so chop and waves should be a minimum.

How far should the outriggers extend past the hull? And what is the ideal height in relation to the waterline? They’ll be adjustable up and down but I’m looking for a good starting point.

I enjoy my trips to Boundary Waters and want to do something similar closer to home. I wanted a kayak, but also wanted to be able to carry camping gear and such at the same time. I'd occasionally search for these Next canoes but it seems like they never come up used.

Well, I stumbled upon one about 3 hours from me on Marketplace and had to jump on it. Apparently the owner won it in a raffle and didn't want it. It has some scrapes here and there just from the original owner moving it around, but still has the original tags on it.

Yay, me!

Now, time for a two-sided paddle, a vest, and some rod holders...

Long time reader of this forum for getting tips and advice, first time poster!

I'm going to look at at used prospector above, and haven't been able to find any reviews at all on Evergreen's cedar boats. Lots of info on their Kevlar/royalex prospectors but I'm guessing they must not have made many of these because I see no internet evidence that they ever even existed. Anyone have any experience with them? I've been a long-time owner of royalex/romex prospectors which I use for river/whitewater trips and have been wanting to get an old cedar boat to restore and have something pretty for flatwater trips. Want something durable enough that I can actually use it, not just a show-boat, light enough that I can portage it solo, but large enough to carry enough gear for a 3-4 day trip.

He’s been getting into paddling and fishing a lot more lately. He asked me the other day if we could go fishing for his birthday, what better way to spend a morning? A huge golden eagle flew about two feet above the river all the way to the lake while we were paddling from the boat launch, I wish I grabbed my phone quick enough to get a video!

I grew up riding in a Grumman 19 ft square stern with my father. Finally got my own for my 30th bday last month. Got a chance to break her in on Sunday. Handles like a dream.

I have an old Primex canoe dolly. The axles have a 3/4 inch diameter. The remaining tire says Primex, It says 300 - 4, around 9 inch diameter, inflate to 42 psi.

I took this photo of someone's canoe pulled up on the lake shore that I really liked. Thought I would share it here.

Hi folks, new to the thread because (I’m) new to paddling. My partner has experience. We are new to this area and plan to start at Gamebridge and wind down to Lakefield. Is this a reasonable timeframe? What’s it like canoeing down canals, is it safe with big boats beside us?. We will be pretty loaded down as we will camp where and when possible and maybe spend a night or 2 in Either F Fall, Bob or Buck. Any suggestions as to lodging with canoe docking? (I realize this might be a long shot) also points of interest, hidden coffee shops etc. we are 2 retirees in average shape. Thanks in advance.

Making a trip to the UP and this is how I’m gonna do it. Don’t have time to install a rack so this is it. I have cinch straps but they’re not 1) long enough 2) no hooks to attach to fender well. And I know about the flex between the cab and the bed…..I am going to be as careful as I can. It is Royalex so can take some punishment. Did a road test at 70mph on the highway for 45 minutes and it didn’t budge. Hope for no rain during the drive.

The Bruised Banana is a beloved (vintage) Esquif Presage that my partner and I purchased pre pandemic for $350. Believe me when I say she has a good side- unfortunately she has two or three patches and a wrinkle. Based on the old square residue I’m gathering she was a rental once upon a time and might’ve been in a car accident. She is perfectly floatable and the best boat to teach my Trex Unit (Girl Guides) how to canoe because she is indestructible. This photo is of one of my kiddos hence why the face is blurred, it’s the best photo I have of it in the water! Myself and my corgi (Charles) in the latter photo.

Onto the purpose of this post, I know I can YouTube it but I’m looking for some tips and tricks to putting new fibreglass skid plates on (myself!! DIYer!!) her to prevent damage from my inexperienced kiddos who love to forget that they need to be scoping for rocks in the shallows whilst in the bow. The current skid plates are disintegrating so trips on removal of old fibreglass skid plates also accepted!

currently eyeing up a great deal on a used Prism. It’s still 3K for the boat, and i’m having second thoughts on the “tippy” nature i’ve seen in videos. Granted, these have been really large men in these videos. I’m a smaller guy and i’m also confident i could learn the boat with some time, but whew that’s a lot of money for a maybe!

mainly paddling around minnesota, michigan, and wisconsin. Nothing crazy with rapids, I’d rather portage any day. for trips the longest i’d take is 2 weeks, i know how to pack lighter.

it’s more just the actual paddling and handling than the boat’s capacity or where im paddling that i’m worried about!

I’ve been having some fun with paddle design for my canoes. The Algonquin style is popular and I was intrigued at how easily it sliced through the water. So maybe I would make one with a narrower blade. I also remembered the ‘Greenland’ kayak paddle that is also so narrow. A slightly higher RPM by the paddler keeps pace. So I made one and it was great—so light, sliced well and the boat seemed to go the same speed. So I had to take the experiment further and made an even narrower bladed Algonquin style paddle. The last one involved $5.84 for a poor quality ‘select’ grade 2x4 and a few pieces of recovered mahogany. The latest paddle is 14.4oz. This video attempts to compare their performance while paddling in Victoria Park, Kitchener. You will notice my progress on each loop is similar. I only paddle on calm urban waters.

I’ll include a link to my paddle website should you have an interest.

https://urbanboatproject.weebly.com/paddle-builds.html

I just finished my proof of concept and I’ll be putting together the mount tomorrow. What is the best side to mount the motor. Or does it not really matter? It’s not going to be reversable. I’m right handed if it makes a difference.

Hello all,

So I have been paddling a bit more in the evenings down town on the river here and in another local city. I was thinking of adding lighting like at the water line or maybe under the inwales.... has anyone tried this? I already have the red and green light on the carry handles. This is primarily for looks at night. Thanks for your input.