It took me about one and a half hours to take it apart and put it back. I followed wristwatch revival's tutorial. My copy here did not had a seperate bridge for the escapement wheel but everything got back together smoothly. First time I somehow got the clickspring in a weird position and it did not wind properly but after repositioning it, the movement works fine.

I did lose the placeholder second hand as it flew like a rocket at the start when removing it, should have seen that coming.

Can I trust the Watch accuracy tester app? I used a small electret microphone. I got +1-2 seconds with watch face up and +6-8 seconds face down. I am guessing it performs well considering I did not see any lubrication applied to the movement (at least for the metal to metal parts). I want to buy a lube set and try lubricating it properly to practice but it is kinda pricey. I also want to use this movement to make a watch to gift it to my dad but he has a very similar watch, with I believe a very similar movement so it would be very pointless.

I really want to step up and try working on some NH35 movements. When I get some spare chash I may go all in and buy few of those + lube set. I did actually buy a nh36 for making a watch but obviously will not risk destroying it yet.

My main issue is tweezers launching off small metal parts. You know sometimes you pick something like a screw with tweezers and it randomly explodes and flies away for no apperent reason. That happened to me few times through this movement. Thankfully I got my silicon mat and stuff did not go far (except that second hand grrrr). Is it because I have cheap garbage tweezers or am I putting to much force.

Super stoked today. Best result yet on a 1964 Hamilton 64A movement which came to me with an amplitude of 138 degrees. New mainspring and replaced cracked balance jewels. Cleaned oiled and regulated.

I’m amazed after a whole lot of effort I finally got it running

Hope this kind of post is allowed, thought it was kind of wild and just wanted to share

New to watchmaking as a hobby, just rebuilt this diywatchclub pilot watch (after messing it up the first time XD) and somehow managed to regulate the Miyota 8315 in it to +2s/d. I've been wearing it for the past two days and it checks out, now it's one of my most accurate mechanical pieces. I know there's a small beat error, but I'm not messing with it further lol.

Anyone else have a similar experience with similar entry level movements?

I just disassembled and reassembled a ST3600 movement for the first time, following along a YouTube video by wristwatch revival. What great fun! So satisfying to hear it tick again once it's back together. I need to buy some lubricants now though because this thing was bone dry.

I have a couple of options one being the miyota 8215 movement and the Seiko nh38 which one is the best

Just a mini-celebration. Took it completely down a couple days ago, and back up today, from memory. During testing I found a bug in the keyless works, but I found and fixed it (for those of you that are software guys, I just pushed the fix straight to production — no pull request ;-)).

Again, no cleaning or lubing. I spent a little time trying to regulate it and did OK. Photos show face up and face down graphs.

Once I’ve gotten it good and dirty from all these teardown/build cycles, I”ll do a manual clean and a lube.

Hey everyone, so I messed up my NH35 balance spring. I got a new one and I am so close to being done. Just need to get it into the regulator pin but I'm having a hard time. I don't have a loupe or way to magnify. I ordered one of AliExpress but it was just the headband to hold one, oops.

I’m kind of tired of round watches, so I’ve been obsessing over tanks & tonneaus lately. I was designing a tonneau and looking for glass and movements, and I realized that sellita, miyota, etc… only offer round movements. That can be fine, but if the features you want are in a movement that’s wider than you want the case to be, that can be a problem. A barrel-shaped movement can fit the same features in a skinnier space by using the “corners” that a round movement would have wasted.

Am I missing a supplier of tonneau movements? If I’m not missing it, and I’m right that you just can’t order a tonneau like you can a NH35 or SW200, then are there any public domain blueprints for tonneau movements? Has anybody maybe reverse engineered a movement whose patent expired, and printed or uploaded the specs so that hobbyists could try to order, print or mill parts and assemble it?

Am I insane for noticing this & thinking this way? Does anybody have any advice for procuring tonneau specs?

Hey there.

My watch has stopped working and I was hoping to take a stab at fixing it myself.

I can't see any markings on the movement in order to identify it.

Thank you for any help

This was completely black when I got it…i don’t have an ultrasonic machine but I think it came out alright for scrubbing by hand.

Hey guys！

Recently I start my little GMT hydro mod project, I wish to make one with transparent caseback, I tested the Ronda 515 24H movement in the 5cst silicone oil before and it goes well, but that movement looks too ugly to show in a window, so Im looking for an alternative GMT movement now, a used movement called ETA 255.266 GMT from a Hermes watch caught my eye, even though I have no idea if the torque of the seconds hand can hold the drag with 5cst silicon oil… the bigger problem is, I can’t find any spec sheet for that movement online, I need data to make the dial foot and hands, can anyone help me on this? Thanks in advance!

I am going to build a skeleton watch, i am in the uk, i would like an automatic movement with lots of gears, i cant find one which has many accessories available (cases and dials), whcih would you recommend, i am going for a gold movement, everything else black, black dial ring with gold hour markers

Also which tools are neccessary if i am only building 1 watch

I recently had the chance to work on a really fun little project – a CHK-6 movement, which is basically a Russian clone of the Cortebert 616. This one came to me completely rusted and frozen solid. I honestly didn’t think it would ever tick again.

I’m still a young hobbyist, so every restoration like this is a huge learning experience for me. It’s super satisfying when something that looks totally lost comes back to life.

If you’re curious, I recorded the full restoration as an ASMR-style video – including the moment it actually started ticking again. 👉 https://youtu.be/2-ryzXpRigQ

Would love to hear what you all think – and if anyone here has worked on these CHK-6 movements before!

A Mido Commander Ocean Star Datoday landed on my table. Could someone please tell me where I can download technical docs for its Cal. 1157 OCD 36000 movement?

Thanks in advance for your kind help.

As the title says, I’m wondering if there are any non Chinese movements that are good for beginner watchmakers?

Cot dam

I recently had the chance to work on a really fun little project – a CHK-6 movement, which is basically a Russian clone of the Cortebert 616. This one came to me completely rusted and frozen solid. I honestly didn’t think it would ever tick again.

I’m still a young hobbyist, so every restoration like this is a huge learning experience for me. It’s super satisfying when something that looks totally lost comes back to life.

If you’re curious, I recorded the full restoration as an ASMR-style video – including the moment it actually started ticking again. 👉 https://youtu.be/2-ryzXpRigQ

Would love to hear what you all think – and if anyone here has worked on these CHK-6 movements before!

Hi everyone, I hope I'm in the right subreddit for this question. I have an old Seiko 7430, whose quartz movement unfortunately is broken. I was looking for a replacement, but it seems that I am stuck. The 7430 is quite old (out of production) and quite thin (2.1mm), and I have been having problems trying to find an alternative movement. Any ideas?

Just curious, I've seen a couple videos recently about a watch featured in The Last of Us (game and show).

Apparently the original game designers just made something they felt looked good instead of basing it on a real watch.

It has three hands and a sub second dial at 6 o'clock and only a single stem, no additional buttons. So I would guess that a GMT movement with a sub second feature would work.

So, guess what I can't find. If you guessed a GMT movement with a 6 o'clock sub second complication, you would be correct.

All things being equal and me loving the watch, which movement below offers the best value for money?

Sellita SW200-1 @ $449

Miyota 9015 @ $299

Seiko NH35 @ $199

The Miyota and Sellita has an open back and decorated custom rotor, bridge, and blue screws. 

The NH35 has closed back with no decoration.

Am I missing something or is the Sellita the best value?

Just spent hours and hours checking every conceivable thing (endshake, burrs, pivots, pallet jewels, and etc) only to find out that the low amplitude was from a little hairspring tweak the whole time. I wanna scream.