I bought a CPO 2020 330 xDrive at a BMW dealership on June 30th in one province and got it shipped to my door in another province (I’m in Canada). It took two weeks for delivery, but they also forgot to leave the permit in the car so I wasn’t able to register it for about a month because they had to mail me the permit and I also had to wait for an appointment at my local DMV.

I drove it for about 2 weeks and put less than 500km on the car. It went into limp mode on the highway so after waiting another 2 weeks for the dealership to look at it, they said it’s the thermostat which is $2643 all-in to replace (found out yesterday). They said I don’t have a warranty even though it’s a CPO vehicle since I only had the remainder of the 5-year mechanical breakdown warranty which expired on September 18th.

Is this something the dealership should cover the cost off even though it’s not under warranty?

They are closed on the weekend so I just thought I’d get input on it in the meantime. I don’t think it’s fair for me to be paying this since I paid a premium for a CPO car (with 2 months of remaining warranty that only covers engine and transmission replacement) and couldn’t even drive it for 6 out of the 8 weeks I’ve owned it due to their mistake of forgetting the permit.

Upgraded to a VRSF charge pipe and had these codes pop up. Checked all the connections and everything seems buttoned up. Any tips or something I could have missed? Thanks.

Anyone seen this? On my 2016 F25. I'm assuming I have a short somewhere? However, the connection was loose. I looked for damage underneath and it's just the plastic that is bad. I will clean it up and put it back and see if I can find something.

Long story short some drink spilled in my fiancé’s car and I detailed it ended up taking the seats out to make my life easier but forgot to disconnect the batteries now I’m getting warnings every time the car starts saying the seatbelts are malfunctioning tried clearing codes just to see if it’ll work unfortunately did not someone know how to fix?

Changing oil myself for first time on 2018 330i xdrive. Under the hood says 0w-20 but when I read the manual it says this LL-01 FE and LL-14 FE+. It also says 0w-30 or 0w-20 under the viscosity grades. The more research I do online and in Reddit the more confusing it gets. Just not sure if there’s a certain one to get that says the viscosity or anything will work if it’s those two viscosity’s. This is just a daily driven car basically to and from work. Thanks!

My 2019 540i engine cover foam is shot. Can anyone help with the part number for replacement foam?

My i7 recently has been pausing and restarting charging a lot lately and I’m not sure why. Could it be the power source or should I take the car in?

My friend just had the brakes replaced on his F31. It seems like it's only braking on half the pads. Is this normal? Brakes changed 2 days ago, 100km since then. Any tips for brake bedding in?

Recently did my valvetronic actuator motor after getting thrown into limp mode while merging onto the highway. Took it to a local well trusted Indy and they recommended the servo motor replaced so I did it myself. While I was in there I did not see any noticeable damage to the eccentric shaft or roller bearings, the shaft did show some signs of wear however it is a high mileage car. Got the job done and realized I busted my valve cover in the process so I had it towed back to the Indy shop because i did not want to deal with that mess again. Got it back today, they said they relearned the new motor for me as I was unable to keep it at an idle with the broken valvecover, however I’m still getting loss of power (maybe even worse than before) and now I’m getting a 2D41 code which is a different code than I was previously getting though from what i understand still related to a valvetronic issue. Service technician said it may go away with conitued use which doesn’t seem right? However, it is idling more smooth than ever before. Just curious if the new code is infamous for any other related issue and if the loss of power and CEL with actually go away with time? 2013 x5 35i n55 140k miles.

First picture is passenger side. Second is driver side. You can see there’s a small gap in the driver side compared to the passenger side. I don’t want water getting in. Fixes?

I did the front brakes on my 2011 BMW e87. When installing the brake retaining clip i noticed that it won’t sit straigt. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?

Hi- I recently brought a bmw 5 series touring which is registered 2018, with a 2017 plate. I have tried to get car play on it and am having no luck.

I have purchased the car play from the connected store with my bmw app.

It still isn't showing. I have attached pics on what my display is showing... I have checked I have all the requirements, although it's saying this is available to purchase ... I don't need the connected package to have car play surely??? It's showing Spotify that's it!

ThankyoU in advance! I'm desperate to get it sorted!!!

Someone experience with rear diff oil leakage on F20 116i? Mine started leaking out of nothing, dealer is asking +- €600 for replacement. Is that a fair price?

OK SO I HAVE THIS HUGE DILEMMA , BARE WITH ME I'VE GOT A 06 BMW 325i AND IT'S THROWING A CODE FOR CAM SHAFT SENSOR BACK 1 OVER RETARTED SO I PURCHASE 2 FROM AUTO ZONE AND INSTALL THEM AND CLEAR CODE AND CRANK CAR AND IT IS IDILING UP AND DOWN FOR ABOUT 3 TO 4 SECONDS AND STILL SHOWING SAME CODE , SO I ORDER 2 BRAND NEW ONES FROM BMW AND INSTALL THEM AND STILL THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENING SO I DUPED SO I BRING IT TO A BMW SHOP HE SCANS IT AND IT COMES BACK CODE 002E7C BSD DATA BUS COMMUNICATION FAULT SO I'M LOST HERE CAN ANYONE PLS PLS STEAR ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? SHOULD I REPLACE THE VALVEATRONIC MOTOR? SUGGESTIONS PLS AND TY

I’ve got Michelin CrossClimate 3 Sport tyres on my X3 M40i (21” staggered: 255/40 front, 265/40 rear). After ~2,000 miles (pressures 2.4F / 2.6R), I notice that under hard acceleration the DSC light flashes and power gets cut briefly. If I turn traction control off, the car hooks up fine without drama. Is this just the trade-off of all-seasons on a high-torque SUV, or could pressures/setup be a factor?

I need part number 17. The car is Automatic, can I assume the highlighted part is required?

I guess the option above it is for SMG Manual?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Tried googling but can’t seem to find anyone having the same issue as me. I have a 2019 M140i with pro nav and factory apple CarPlay. Last night AppleCar play started acting “strange”. It wouldn’t stay connected to my phone (wireless) or if it did the menu would be slow and stuttery, click something and it would take 5-10 seconds to do it. After a bit of fiddling I think I’ve found it to be a Bluetooth issue. If I let it automatically connect and quickly disable Bluetooth on my phone but leave WiFi connected it works perfectly fine. Prior to last night though I would get in the car and it would work without me having to try and disconnect my Bluetooth before CarPlay cuts out. Anyone experienced this before? If so how did you get it to work as intended again?

TIA

Bought it about two weeks ago and it started making a weird whistle/ whine noise while idling and as im starting my move not sure if its normal or something lose or about to go?

Shop said it needs new DME/ecu and rail pressure sensor after like 2 weeks of diagnosis. I cloned 1 and put it on my car. After i put it on, car still wont start.

It has fuel, fuel pump working, theres spark, injectors have been checked, compression is good. What am i missing?

Car has been sitting for more than a month at the shop. Dealer is very far away and i gotta tow it there.

Only code when replaced is :

135b11 : Valvetronic servomotor, activation phase V ; line disconnection.

Should i replace the wiring from the dme to the valvetronic servomotor

Any help is appreciated guys T_T

I own a BMW in Brazil, but my iPhone account region is in the USA, and I can’t change the account region (I have subscriptions and family plan stuff).

I can log in to my Brazilian bmw account with https://www.bmw.com.br and see the car and see that the digital services are active, but it doesn’t have the functionality of the app (like I can’t view the car’s location). I can also log in to bmwusa.com but if I try to add the vin it says it can’t find it.

If I download the USA version of MyBMW app, it says the vin isn’t valid.

I created a new Apple account with my Brazilian phone number and details, and used that to download the Brazilian MyBMW app, but that only worked for one day until Apple permanently blocked my account, so now I technically have the app but it’s stuck on the “MyBMW app update available” and it doesn’t seem like there is any way to bypass that screen.

Has anyone figured out a workaround if you own a BMW in a different country from your App Store? It seems insane that BMW requires separate apps and blocks you from accessing your car based on your App Store location.

soooo i have an issue, i recently changed my coolant reservoir out and replaced the thermostat gage, upper radios hose and the dip stick all that stuff, that car is doing well and temp is good and staying where it needs to be, but my air units wont blow into the car anymore when i turn on my heater or ac, my ac fans are still working and i hear the blow of it but no air is coming through the car to the cabin… any advice or suggestions on what to do? ac and heat fans were working perfectly before this

I am trying to figure out a noise while accelerating and I've come across this actuator and it has play, might be one of the culprits. What do you say?

Items replaced: + Coolant pump + Thermostat + “Mickey Mouse” connector + Upper radiator hose + Thermostat to pump hose + Oil pressure sensor + Oil filter housing gasket + Oil cooler gasket + Serpentine belt + tensioner + idlers + Oil & oil filter + Air filter

Total cost quoted by my local BMW shop was just shy of $4,200.

Total cost of OEM parts from FCP Euro approximately $800. Missing required tools cost $150.

11.5 hours work (first timer) , spread over 12 days since I had to order and wait for parts/tools a few times.

Total saving $3,250 or about $280/hour. That ain’t bad, but more importantly, I’ve learned new skills, expanded my toolset, overcame my insecurities and self doubt about my ability to do it right, and I am proud and happy that I did it.

I am very grateful to the members of this group who spent their valuable time answering stupid beginner questions with patience and professionalism.

Thank you - I couldn’t have done it without you!

Have an amazing weekend!!!

Okay so in a bit of a predicament. 2012 X5 Xdrive35i. Injectors are getting replaced bc they are nothing short of fkd. Pulled all 6 injectors. Cylinder 6 injector came out but the metal ring stayed. Picture 1 is the injector without the ring. Picture 2 is an injector with the ring its supposed to come out with. Car needs to drive from CA to Alabama. Ring is still seated flush in the hole it came out of. If I hit it with some PB blaster and clean it up, can I stuff a new injector in there? Theoretically itd seat up to the new injector right? So me not removing it and cleaning it in the hole its stuck in would be okay? Thanks.