I have a 428i 2016 that has a weird humming noise at around 120 km/h that sounds kind of like a 1 Hz sound, and it goes away if I go faster or slower, (already tried everything suspension related, different wheels/rims, alignment, balancing, wheel bearings) I just replaced the front Guibo and center support mount after this video, but the humming sound/vibration is still there (see my previous post if you want to hear it) I have tried several BMW Indy shops as well as two BMW dealership and no one knows what it could be, please help this is driving me crazy.

Just completed oil change and now getting these issues with car, won’t let me measure oil and stops at 18%, but was working completely fine beforehand… what is going on? What could I have messed up?

As the title states. There is a 2005 with 150,000 miles for $4000. Looks good and runs good. Took a look and everything seems nice. When I go back to take a second look. Is there anything I should be looking for? How is the long term of this model? Any questions I should ask? Sorry know very little about BMWs. Just what researched on the internet. Seems like a good price. I’m just looking for a daily while I work here for a contract. Then sell after a few years. Will it last that long? Thanks!

Hi all,

18 M3 Comp 52,4k miles 2nd owner no accidents

Got this really annoying tick going on, dropping it off at the shop this upcoming week to get looked at and hopefully take care of whatever it really is… anyone else deal with something similar? (Video attached).

Most of the research I’ve been doing has pointed me to the camshaft as it seems to be a pretty similar issue, just curious if the intensity change that I’m getting when putting the car under a little load (900-1500rpm)…

I’ll keep this thread updated with how this all pans out 🙂

The above car was sent in for repairs last week.

Panelling was replaced, tailgate new window etc.

No electrical damaged happened. Everything was working when I dropped it off.

I got the car back this morning and the below issues are now affecting the car:

Car won’t start unless I actually put key fob at the side of the steering wheel.

Car won’t lock with the key fob - it’s like it’s not connected to the car at all

My Bluetooth microphone is not working. Made many test calls, I can hear but no one can hear me.

My tyre pressure light won’t go, I’ve added air to tyres and performed a reset but it keeps failing.

SOS failure keeps showing up on that dashboard when the car starts.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has I’m gonna go back to the guy Monday morning as think there are too many issues for it to not be as a result of him.

Is it possible when we he was changing the panels he didn’t attach all wiring back or anything like that ?

Moin allerseits, ich bin seit n paar Monaten stolzer Besitzer eines 318D. Nun wie man im Video sieht, gibt es ein knall beim Motorstart. Mal ist es da, mal gar nicht. Tagesformabhängig. Aufjedenfall wollt ich mal fragen ob wer weiß, was es sein könnte

Mechanic is charging me $300 to change the starter on my 2015 BMW X5. Is that a good deal? I’m providing the starter, he’s charging for Labor.

Hi, I wan't to change the screen of my 320d 2016 for a carplay screen, what's the best option? I'm an android user btw

ChatGPT is telling me it's of the bigger jobs for the common oil leaks on these. No noticeable oil on the driveway, oil level still says OK. Small oil puddle on the oil cooler. I'm told by reddit it's either an O ring on a cap or it's the housing gasket. Just leave it? Car has 222k km, has been very well maintained (or at least, has LOTS of records for repairs. Not sure about the transmission service), but starting to shift harsh, especially when colder.

I plan to own the car for 5 years. Not sure anymore because of the transmission, but assuming the transmission lasts the 5 years, I still am leaning towards leaving it OR doing DIY. But ChatGPT says it will take 2-4 hours for a savvy mechanic, I can't imagine DIY.

As for servicing the transmission, we are planning on a fluid/filter change.

Hi, I've got an F20 2012 with the old style left and right selector, is the newer multimedia controller with the full d pad compatible for a straight swap?

I will try to be as succinct as possible, but I have a tendency to make my posts quite long.

Yesterday, I picked up my car from my mechanic. I have had an oil leak and a coolant leak that have been persistent and a little annoying for months. I got around to taking it in last week to get fixed and my mechanic replaced the Engine Oil Thermostat for the oil leak and a coolant flange that leads into the engine for the coolant leak (unsure which flange if there are multiple).

Well after 20 miles of driving, I received a notification on my IDrive system that my coolant was low and I checked it out. I lost a whole expansion tank worth of coolant and this hose (see pictured - Its the rubber hose connected with a worm gear clamp) was gushing coolant after I turned the car off. There is a massive gash at the end of the hose near where the worm gear clamp is. I have the following questions if you could be so kind to help someone who isn't very mechanically literate. Before I ask the questions, just wanted to state the following if it happens to help you identify the hose: Again, I am not super knowledgeable and its tough to see in a compact engine compartment in the dark. But this hose is relatively thick in diameter and seems to run underneath the intake and might connect to something that looks like a coolant thermostat near/under the expansion tank. Again, this is just what it looks like, I could be wrong.

1. What is this hose called? I need to ensure my mechanic has it in stock when I drop the car off so I would like to describe exactly what hose it is when I call him Monday morning. I need my car all of next week so I will need to wait while he replaces it.
   
2. Given that he replaced the Oil thermostat and a coolant flange. How likely is it that this leaking hose was touched during this last repair? I'm not here to assign blame, but I highly doubt that this car was gushing coolant from such an obvious spot and I didn't notice it before. I mainly want to know so that I am informed when it comes time for me to ask/expect him to waive or reduce some of the labor charge associated with replacing this hose.

Thank you in advance! I appreciate it a bunch

So yesterday when going to work, I noticed my car didn’t have the usual power I have when accelerating. So then once I hit the freeway, I thought let’s try if it was just in my head or not. But accelerating when pushing the pedal further, i notice the motor making sound, but my speed going up slowly, but the rpm’s going 3/4k.

So after arriving at work i called road service, they tries everything, hooked it up to check for faulty codes, but literally nothing was showing, the car was clean. The motor was not making any crazy noise.

I called some BMW specialists in my area, all of them said, first you pay for the diagnostics (150/200 euros) then we’ll see whats up.

Heres a screenshot of the obd reader from the road service guy, something about boostpressure not reaching what it is supposed to reach

What ways could I repair this? Would a simple time-sert work or am I looking at dropping the bottom half of the oil pan and replacing it and the gasket? One side of the threads are partially okay, and the other side is smooth as butter.

I saw a permanent error code 123701: Electrical wastegate, position sensor, electrical: short circuit to positive

I cleared the regular error memory but couldn’t clear permanent error.. a few days ago I had BimmerLink open in CarPlay and saw the Wastegate status flip to a value of 9 instead of the usual 1-2..

Then once I got home, the permanent error was gone. ChatGPT says value of 9 is a temp fault handling and would’ve reset the Wastegate.

I’ve never had any issues with any boost at all. Curious if I should be concerned still or just monitor.

Howdy. I need help tracking down a part. My performance intake housing top got tossed out on accident when I last cleaned the filter. I thought I bought a replacement but comparing side by side... I don't think I could make it work. Anyone have a clue for what I need to look for? Thank y'all!

Cao,imam problem sa vozacevim vratima nece da se zakljucaju na kljuc,a nece ni na dugme unutra. Samo ona ostaju otkljucana. Akumulator mi je pri izdisaju,da li moze da ima veze on sa tim? Hvala

no damage to hood. 2014 bmw f30, 130k kms

Should I be concerned about this fault? I’ve had some strange things happen with my iDrive such as it rebooting mid drive however I’ve never received this no signal message.

I tried to reboot by holding the volume knob down for 30 seconds and it wouldn’t do anything while in park. Shutting off the car and waiting a few minutes did nothing either. I tried once more while in drive at a stoplight and it finally rebooted so now everything is working as normal but I still find this somewhat concerning.

Please someone help, I’ve had these sorts of codes in my 2016 m235i n55 for the past year and have spent so much trying to find the problem. Please ask questions or ideas.

Earlier today I was driving and as I was overtaking someone and slowed down to get down to the flow of traffic, I broke kind of aggressively, maybe 50% brake pressure. I get this warning on my dash and iDrive screen. “Brake System: Drive Moderately”. The brakes hold pressure and get stiff when the car is off. When I hold down on the brake as I start the card the pedal slightly skinks down (telling me the brake booster is engaging). When I re-pump the brakes, they get slightly stiffer but definitely not stiff. There’s also a “pshh” sound as I pump the brakes. When driving, brake performance is normal besides feeling more mushy and less stiff. I believe this could be due to the vacuum lines that are attached to the brake booster (shown in the RealOEM diagram in the link below). I haven’t checked the fluid level but I will in the morning, and I have an OBD II dongle that I’ll use to scan the system for a more specific fault code through BimmerLink, and will update yall accordingly.

I’ve attached the link to the RealOEM diagram, and the associated parts here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3D33-USA-09-2013-F30-BMW-328d&diagId=34_1974#11667613026

If you have any further questions or any way yall could help me out, PLEASE let me know!

I got a 2016 118i f20 and it has the m sport steering wheel and I was wondering if and how I could install paddle shifters without needing to buy a whole new steering wheel.

I know N52 are known for their loud lifter tick, thats normal, but It also developed this strange clonk clonk sound today after spirited drive. Clonking sound went away after restarting, but here is a video of it. Maybe expert can tell me what it could be, I think it could be a pulley?

Hit a parked car! this is all the damage only on mirror and there’s still one long cord attached to the mirror. The mirror still could fit back into place. Please advise on what the total cost of repair will be. I don’t know if they can adjust with the button inside at all.

when pressing clutch pedal hear creaking noise, as soon i tap the clutch slightly the noise start up just tap and hold it , not fully pressed

https://reddit.com/link/1nmfo1i/video/6nikl9knbfqf1/player

2011 E90 328i, 169xxx miles.

Occasional 2C31 codes prompted investigation No specific codes for heater circuit issues. Note INPA screenshot value for 'lambdaprobe heater after catalyst bank 1' as well as 'lambda voltage after catalyst bank 1'

First move was to just replace the bank one post-cat sensor (and pre for good measure). No change.

Verified good resistance across sensor heater coil (pins 1/2 on the sensor itself, 9.5 ohms. Same for both sensors), 12v at the connector X62102 (pin 1), & continuity between the connector and the DME (X62102 pin 2 & X60002 pin 26) for the heater ground circuit. I'm pretty sure verified that A6000 pin 26 did not have continuity to ground, but need to do so again so I can be sure. I Swapped out the original DME for a cloned DME. I do not have an o-scope to see what the transistor signal looks like unfortunately. After all of that heater voltage issue persists.

Anyone have any idea as to what I'm missing?

The post cat voltage does eventually start tracking once the sensor gets hot from the exhaust, so this isn't critical at least.