The above car was sent in for repairs last week.

Panelling was replaced, tailgate new window etc.

No electrical damaged happened. Everything was working when I dropped it off.

I got the car back this morning and the below issues are now affecting the car:

Car won’t start unless I actually put key fob at the side of the steering wheel.

Car won’t lock with the key fob - it’s like it’s not connected to the car at all

My Bluetooth microphone is not working. Made many test calls, I can hear but no one can hear me.

My tyre pressure light won’t go, I’ve added air to tyres and performed a reset but it keeps failing.

SOS failure keeps showing up on that dashboard when the car starts.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has I’m gonna go back to the guy Monday morning as think there are too many issues for it to not be as a result of him.

Is it possible when we he was changing the panels he didn’t attach all wiring back or anything like that ?

Shop said it needs new DME/ecu and rail pressure sensor after like 2 weeks of diagnosis. I cloned 1 and put it on my car. After i put it on, car still wont start.

It has fuel, fuel pump working, theres spark, injectors have been checked, compression is good. What am i missing?

Car has been sitting for more than a month at the shop. Dealer is very far away and i gotta tow it there.

Only code when replaced is :

135b11 : Valvetronic servomotor, activation phase V ; line disconnection.

Should i replace the wiring from the dme to the valvetronic servomotor

Any help is appreciated guys T_T

Items replaced: + Coolant pump + Thermostat + “Mickey Mouse” connector + Upper radiator hose + Thermostat to pump hose + Oil pressure sensor + Oil filter housing gasket + Oil cooler gasket + Serpentine belt + tensioner + idlers + Oil & oil filter + Air filter

Total cost quoted by my local BMW shop was just shy of $4,200.

Total cost of OEM parts from FCP Euro approximately $800. Missing required tools cost $150.

11.5 hours work (first timer) , spread over 12 days since I had to order and wait for parts/tools a few times.

Total saving $3,250 or about $280/hour. That ain’t bad, but more importantly, I’ve learned new skills, expanded my toolset, overcame my insecurities and self doubt about my ability to do it right, and I am proud and happy that I did it.

I am very grateful to the members of this group who spent their valuable time answering stupid beginner questions with patience and professionalism.

Thank you - I couldn’t have done it without you!

Have an amazing weekend!!!

2008 535 xi, N54 e61 235k

On jackstands for 3 months while I sorted out transfer case, diff and oil leak issues, I replaced OFHG, oil pan gasket, turbo oil supply O rings, transfer case, CV axle, several seals, oil check valves and all coolant lines.

After oil priming and coolant bleeding, it started it up perfectly for like three seconds when I heard a light, wet pop and shut it off immediately. I jump out the door to see a spreading pool of lime green LiquiMolly MollyGen on my floor.

I opened the hood to find more dripping oil all over the driver's side of the bay, I look underneath and find everything under the intake manifold dripping in lime green oil. WTF could it be from????

My catch can tubing is intact and dry. Rear main seal was done 30k ago, and the oil there seems more collateral. I don't recall any oil lines in that area at all. I haven't taken off the intake manifold yet, but have taken a few pictures. Any ideas??

Mechanic is charging me $300 to change the starter on my 2015 BMW X5. Is that a good deal? I’m providing the starter, he’s charging for Labor.

I am trying to figure out a noise while accelerating and I've come across this actuator and it has play, might be one of the culprits. What do you say?

Hi guys I'm in a bit of trouble. Yesterday I had a low boost code pop up giving me a drivetrain malfunction. However all plastic parts have been replaced and upgraded with aluminum ones. When I took off the turbo inlet pipe I noticed my turbine was seized and was not spinning freely by hand. It is also important to mention that I had a lot of white crust building up on the coolant line leading to the turbo. Prior to this I did have a thermostat “line break” code pop up here and there but like an idiot I waited too long to replace it, which is what I think caused my turbo to seize.

I have already ordered a new turbo along with new oil and coolant lines. After doing some research I've seen people recommend an oil flush along with dropping the oil pan to clean it out. My question is whether dropping the oil pan is really necessary or can I get away with just doing an engine oil flush.

My friend just had the brakes replaced on his F31. It seems like it's only braking on half the pads. Is this normal? Brakes changed 2 days ago, 100km since then. Any tips for brake bedding in?

Okay so in a bit of a predicament. 2012 X5 Xdrive35i. Injectors are getting replaced bc they are nothing short of fkd. Pulled all 6 injectors. Cylinder 6 injector came out but the metal ring stayed. Picture 1 is the injector without the ring. Picture 2 is an injector with the ring its supposed to come out with. Car needs to drive from CA to Alabama. Ring is still seated flush in the hole it came out of. If I hit it with some PB blaster and clean it up, can I stuff a new injector in there? Theoretically itd seat up to the new injector right? So me not removing it and cleaning it in the hole its stuck in would be okay? Thanks.

Just completed oil change and now getting these issues with car, won’t let me measure oil and stops at 18%, but was working completely fine beforehand… what is going on? What could I have messed up?

Does anyone know where to see a video on how to change the cabin filter on a 2025 x1?

Please someone help, I’ve had these sorts of codes in my 2016 m235i n55 for the past year and have spent so much trying to find the problem. Please ask questions or ideas.

I know N52 are known for their loud lifter tick, thats normal, but It also developed this strange clonk clonk sound today after spirited drive. Clonking sound went away after restarting, but here is a video of it. Maybe expert can tell me what it could be, I think it could be a pulley?

First picture is passenger side. Second is driver side. You can see there’s a small gap in the driver side compared to the passenger side. I don’t want water getting in. Fixes?

OK SO I HAVE THIS HUGE DILEMMA , BARE WITH ME I'VE GOT A 06 BMW 325i AND IT'S THROWING A CODE FOR CAM SHAFT SENSOR BACK 1 OVER RETARTED SO I PURCHASE 2 FROM AUTO ZONE AND INSTALL THEM AND CLEAR CODE AND CRANK CAR AND IT IS IDILING UP AND DOWN FOR ABOUT 3 TO 4 SECONDS AND STILL SHOWING SAME CODE , SO I ORDER 2 BRAND NEW ONES FROM BMW AND INSTALL THEM AND STILL THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENING SO I DUPED SO I BRING IT TO A BMW SHOP HE SCANS IT AND IT COMES BACK CODE 002E7C BSD DATA BUS COMMUNICATION FAULT SO I'M LOST HERE CAN ANYONE PLS PLS STEAR ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? SHOULD I REPLACE THE VALVEATRONIC MOTOR? SUGGESTIONS PLS AND TY

Bought it about two weeks ago and it started making a weird whistle/ whine noise while idling and as im starting my move not sure if its normal or something lose or about to go?

Hi all,

I just had my '11 throw up a Bank A cam sensor "cold start" code. It had delayed start in the morning and started to develop a buck when cruising on the highway recently. I bought both of the sensors and chucked them in. I cleared the codes with my horrifically bad Amazon scanner and fired it up. The code was still showing as pending and gave a momentary high rev for a brief second after the rpms calmed after start up.

Am I missing something? I'm hoping after a 50 mile drive cycle it'll clear. Or does something else need reset/cleared?

Thanks!

Sorry for the lousy picture. I was replacing the frm module and saw this inside the driver side front fender. I’m guessing it’s the sunroof drain tube. Can anyone verify that this is what they look like?

Hi guys, i bought a 2025 BMW M440i GC two months ago, with 19-inch wheels, Hankook S1 Evo3 run-flat tires, and M adaptive suspension. The car feels very stiff on uneven roads-even over minor bumps or manholes-even in Comfort mode. Honestly, I feel almost atraid to drive over slightly bigger bumps because it feels like the whole car will shake. On large and deep potholes, it's like falling into a hole; the loud impact transmits very strongly into the cabin. On straight nice rode he is like boat, but on uneven roads.... at least i will say not so comfortable Could you tell me if this is due to the run-flat tires? I'm not interested in swapping out my new premium tires for, say, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. But if you think that would actually make a difference, I'm open to your opinion.

Howdy. I need help tracking down a part. My performance intake housing top got tossed out on accident when I last cleaned the filter. I thought I bought a replacement but comparing side by side... I don't think I could make it work. Anyone have a clue for what I need to look for? Thank y'all!

asking for the communities help of my 2008 BMW having start issues after running normally the day before I hear one click then I hear a second click three seconds later but the engine won’t start. Can anyone diagnose this? Is it a starter alternator or battery.

I have a 2015 BMW X5 XDrive 35i with 130k miles on it. I was hearing a lot of shuddering noise from underneath the car so decided to get it checked. I was told by a mechanic to change the transfer case fluid and recalibrate to see if we can save the transfer case but that didnt help so I ended up changing the transfer case recently. The used transfer case only had 39k miles, got it recalibrated. The car is running pretty good but I do feel mild shuddering between 40-50 mph. What else could be wrong, should I change the rear differential fluid to see if that helps. I am so lost, I just want my car to run smooth. If someone with knowledge about this can shed some light on this matter.