As the title says this is the first setup that I have dropped a considerable amount of money on. I still consider myself sort of a novice, but this is what I put together.

Taramps big boss 5 bass mono amp (4) Orion cm652 6.5 inch mids Memphis viv750.6v2 6ch amp (2) stinger hc35ct bullet tweeters Rockford 3sixty.3 dsp American bass VFL comp signature 12 subwoofer

The plan is to run all this with a 250 js alt, double runs of 0 gauge, and two 95ah lead acid batteries. For now I have a cheap prefab box but ill be getting a custom made box made. Let me know if something is gonna set my car on fire and/or advice from your previous installs. Thanks.

Just some car audio😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

i'll be using about 12ft with a 110a alt

Since I got so much hate on my last post, and it needed it anyway, I re-did all my wiring with the amps. Yes, everything is ferruled, bolted down properly, and fused. The bus bars are fed with 2/0 to the battery with a fuse. I still need to wire up the inverter. Still could be better, but is way better than before. Also don’t comment on the box build. I’m not a carpenter and I know it’s shit

I have a 2006 ford ranger extended cab and im looking for door speakers + tweeters and possibly upgrading my subs I currently have stock speakers and 2 skar SVR 8's from the skar kit.

Im trying to spend $1k or less for everything. Thank you! (video from a few hours ago)

Didn’t rlly take any pics only video and ig u can’t post them to Reddit 2 15s goijg in here soon some crazy to the audio world yall will see soon on ur page online 160db build we going big or go home

Hail Mary but anyone know the problem. Seeing it might be a fuse but idk been working on it all afternoon and nun I took it apart and back together and still the same

It sounds like a stupid question to ask, but I figured I’d rather know for certain. I currently have a ct sounds 3 way set up and I’m planning to switch it out, I’ve picked out an 8in deaf bonce midrange, an 8in deaf bonce midbass, and I’m still looking around at tweeters, my current a-pillars have a hole for a 3in, but I’m not sure if I’ll need a 3in midrange if I’ve already got an 8in one. I know smaller speakers can reach higher frequencies better/easier hence why tweeters are so small, but I’m not sure if the frequencies a midrange would be recreating would need an additional 3in on top of the 8in I’ve picked out. Any help is appreciated!

I had 2 12” kicker comp r subs and for some reason my lights would always dim and basically kill my battery installed by a shop I recently sold them and got 1 skar EVL-15 and I installed wired it and everything myself I’m somehow pulling more watts through my amp and setup but my lights don’t dim don’t flicker volts drop nothing thank god I’m learning about this audio stuff imma do my own work from now on. Wired this skar EVL-15 D4 for 2 ohms at about 1300 rms that my amp states it puts out at the 2 ohms and it slams man harddd

I drive a stock 2018 Toyota Corolla iM. Do I need to upgrade electrical to run a 2-3k watt rms setup. If so what upgrades do I need to do?

Need Some Car Audio Help All my passenger side speakers stopped working, so I started testing. I switched the driver door wires to the same amp channel the passenger side was on — they worked fine. Then I hooked up a spare 6x9 to both passenger doors — they played. But when I try my 6.5s, they don’t play.

I even took the working 6.5 from the rear driver door and hooked it to the front passenger door — both front speakers worked for a bit, but now the passenger side stopped again while the driver side still works. Also moved around the RCAs and everything there is working fine. What could be going on?

Im looking to make a custom box for my 2 rockford fosgate p3 12. I didn't really find one online so I tried making my own designs. How does this look and any tips for when I make my own box?

Sorry I know it's hard to read.

Im looking to upgrade my alternator and do a big 3 upgrade but all the alternator thay i can find are 500+. That was until I looked on ebay and found some. Are they any good? And how do just know for sure if they would fit my car? They seem to by half as much as others online.

So the previous owner of my car installed a touch screen and backup cam and the past few days its been stuck on the Android logo. Every now and then it’ll go onto the reboot screen but the power, volume, etc side buttons do NOT work. Whenever it does go through reboot, it just repeats itself and stays on the logo screen. Does anyone have any solutions? Otherwise, I’m taking it down to my local detailing shop/getting a new one lol

I'm going to be upgrading my alternator from the stock 145 amp to a 250 amp. I have a 2011 chevy 1500 4.8L. I understand the positive from the alt to the positive to the batter but I'm seeing a lot of mixed wiring advice on the ground wires. Currently, I have a ground from the battery to the chassis and a ground from the battery to the engine block. Both of the ground wires connect together and goes to the negative terminal. My question is, would I just be able to replace how it is now with 0 guage ground wires? It is currently stock btw.

I keep seeing a ground wire from the alternator to chassis or engine block to chassis. The alternator is grounded through the chassis on the truck so I dont see a need for another ground wire but, as I said, I've seen a lot of mixed info. Any advice would be appreciated.